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Ben Lipman Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
Posts: 3105 Reg: 04-2006
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Friday, January 20, 2012 - 09:16 pm, by: Ben Lipman(Ben12a)
Mike, great idea. Anyone got an S13, AE86, or Rx-7 shell they want to give me? It certainly would have been easier. I should have kept the Rx-7 and just stripped it for track use. Would have been under the tonne with all steel panels, everything you need has been done before, and they are tracked successfully all over the world. Plus rotorheads always seem happy to lend you a hand, motor, gearbox etc to get you out of trouble. (Paul and I once stayed up to 2am changing a gearbox in his before towing the car 3 hours to the track for a 7 am start, LOL)
I pulled the second door from the mould today. There is much benefit in leaving the door in the mould for a few days. I have read this, been told this, and know this, but didn't practice this last time. Second door has a bigger reinforcing bar joining the catch to the hinge along the skin, and is much more convincing because of it. I also left some of the raw glass reinforcement around the skeleton and then rolled this into the wet resin of the skin when I clamped them. This resulted in a much cleaner, stronger seam. Unfortunately, despite all my care the raw door still weighs exactly 6kg, 1kg more than the target weight. This is the difference between a professional and the hack. I am using more resin than the 2 or 2.5:1 ratio that is recommended for CSM.
I wonder how a fibreglass cloth would perform?
The main effort today was getting the engine loom out. That was achieved by lunch time, but for some strange reason I decided to remove all the wiring all together. I now have no dash, no door looms, and only the light wiring and a bunch of unknown wires left forward of the windscreen. 12Kg of wiring came out in total, on top of the 20-25kg of wiring already pulled.
The tail lights, brake lights etc at the rear all work, but I can't get the headlights, parkers etc to work. The indicators also have gone on the blink, but I am pretty sure this is because the hazard button is out of the car. The high beams work fine when you 'flash' them though.
I need to mount the haltech somewhere before ringing the sparky and getting it into his shop.
