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Ben Lipman Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
Posts: 3240 Reg: 04-2006
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Monday, June 04, 2012 - 08:29 pm, by: Ben Lipman(Ben12a)
I would like to know how that works Walter. My wing will be welded to the chassis, so no putting load cells under a mount as such.
The yard is clean- I just don't have any more room in the car garage, LOL. I could park in the entertainment area, but then where would my bar and BBQ go? I cant get to the sheds out the back due to some fences etc. I think I mentioned one of my sheds is an old stables- I have enough room to park about 10 cars if I wanted to use it for that. We lucked out buying this place...
Some pics for you Andrew. The mount I built last night is flawed. I inadvertently built a cantilever into it by having a single post down to that box section in the boot. So it you push down on one side of the wing, the mount acts as a pivot and allows the aluminium upright to move enough that it is visible. It'll have to come back out and be replaced by two posts done to the floor.
I have drilled the bumper to play around with a rear 'strut' which I have made from a 10mm steel rod. One end will be threaded and the other have an eyelet welded on. The purpose of this is to be able to stress the rear side of the mount to make small corrections after the welding at the front. The lever effect is so that 1mm change in the mount geometry could cause 5-10mm at the wing tip. I don't car how good you are, there is going to be some correction needed after welding that many joints. Better to plan for it.
My first idea was to weld two 30cm long bits of steel angle either side of the boot catch and reinforce that with struts to the floor. I baulked because of the amount of steel I was adding to the car. It might come back to that as the mounts need to be sturdy and very, very rigid. The original West car has these mounts bolted to the gearbox.
