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John Stafford TryHard Qld. Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8 and a UZZ32 # 514
Posts: 212 Reg: 02-2010
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Thursday, December 15, 2011 - 04:47 pm, by: John Stafford(Johng12)
Hello Dan, I have had a Soarer 31 for over a year now and after reading Peter Scots articles on the 32 I decided that if one came available that was half ok and not too expensive I would give it a go. I haven’t seen the car yet as I am presently overseas and will be back at the end of February, so will see what I have bought then. (I have tried different email addresses to contact Peter Scott but nothing has yielded a workable contact number or email, do you have one for him?) My car has Schrader valves fitted to the Nitrogen accumulators. I don’t know what has been done with the hydraulic side yet but the owner said the suspension has had new seals done recently too. I am hoping that this means the top side has been done too? But maybe it is only the accumulators that have been done.
With regard to the nitrogen gauge that Peter Scot bought, I saw a number of them on U.S. ebay (one for $44) and wondered how to choose. It seems that whatever I buy from there will have different fitting than our bottles, right? Are there different types of regulators for different jobs? Why were the push fittings upgraded to Schrader valves in his article if the push fittings are more user friendly?
It sounds like every 32 owner should have their own nitrogen bottle rather than going to a shop, refrigeration shop, right? Is this the cheapest way to go with a cost of about $100 for the regulator, $40 for the full gas bottle? $40 for adaptor, total of $180 plus $96 per year for rent of bottle, say $280 the first year and then $100 plus gas from then on, right? Is this cheaper than going to a place that re pressurizes them for you or did you go he go that way because he worked on other peoples 32s regularly? How often should one expect to need to re pressurize the system? Maybe that is related to whether a cheap or a good job was done on the accumulators? From looking at the Branz site the units are available but very expensive, maybe not so compared to original Toyota I expect.
When Peter talks about opening the bleed valve, before pressurizing the system with nitrogen, that would mean that one has to refill the fluid tank after pressurizing the system with nitrogen, so do you just put the same fluid back in or is this when you do a bleed of the system, flushing out the old oil completely and putting all that new clear fluid in that Peter calls gold? I wonder if it price has gone up like gold, just as the auto trans fluid has just about doubled? I suppose that the answer to my question is self evident i.e. if the fluid is dirty, do a flush, Otherwise just put it back into the reservoir, right?
I suppose that I decide on whether the top strut needs work by whether or not it is leaking, if not then just a flush should be in order, right?
Thanks for your time and endless contributions to the soarer crowd. Cheers John
