Monday, May 14, 2018 - 10:07 am, by: Nathan Roberts(Soarer_guy)
Firstly,
Nobody gives a sh!t how many posts someone has made if all posts are CRAP. 3 good posts in 2500+. I see this elitist attitude all over this forum, you people need to take a hard look at yourselves. People come here for help, not to be bossed around by retarded persons with no clue.
If this Dave guy has knowledge, he can provide links instead of trolling. Simple as that. In fact, you can all provide help, or gtfo, it's really that simple. Don't even reply if you have nothing to contribute.
So, that Dave guy is a moron. Could not care less about his input. Just a terrible troll. He imported cars for 5 years, so what. My family has imported cars for 50+ years. Means zero. You sign paperwork, get the car here, and it's here. Doesn't mean you know a thing about Soarers. Anyone can read a book; Anyone can change a timing belt.
Look at his post history, a mong. The dude literally thinks it is not a torx screwdriver for the ECU allegedly also. Forget him.
And Tom, you too are a fool. If Dave knew anything he should be posting links to help other members like myself with this very issue. Instead, just like you, he is a goofy troll that knows zero. The Lexus post was tongue in cheek, but you goons cannot take a joke obviously (although I was not wrong with that post what so ever). I came here for help, not for morons to tell me that that my post is embarrassing, or not to necro threads, or so on. Figured it would save 20 minutes reading through the workshop manual, my mistake.
Many other Soarer sites out there, many other Toyota sites, jap import sites, and so on. Figured this would be a quick and easy question but seemingly not one single person has anything to contribute, as nobody knows wtf they are talking about.
Seems like a theme with this site, a bunch of Soarer 'owners' pretending to be elitists, but most are really goofy trolls. Looking at post histories, the most helpful Soarer gurus have left long ago - only an echo chamber here now.
You guys shame the Soarer name. Take a good look at yourselves, and grow tf up. You're all in your 40s or worse, carrying on like moronic 20 year olds.
Now, back to the topic - couldn't care less about your post histories or so on. You either know stuff, or you don't. I couldn't care less about your panties being twisted up your vaginas in the least.
Really, no big loss if nobody chimes in with the correct info, I have 4 workshop manuals here and will easily find out the info. Simply figured I'd put the post on the site to help other people out - but you people ruined that as usual. Within 5 days the issue will be fixed - it's really that simple. I'm just sick right now so figured some internet research would do the trick, my mistake. Either you people have info, or the workshop books in the garage do. No big loss.
You mongs call me the troll, what a joke. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Back to the topic. Things tried so far:
*Swapped main engine ECU with known working recapped ECU* :No change. *Bypassed fuel ecu with paperclip from b+ to fp* :No change. (Not working). *Checked relays (specifically main EFI) and they seem fine. Swapped with other relays, no change. *Am yet to check the COR (circuit opening relay). *Fuel pump does work, but only when using a physical wire attached from the battery to the fuel pump behind rear seat. *Car will crank and fire, and stay running with a physical wire from battery to fuel pump behind rear seat.
Turns out that I have 10.5V with ignition on in the B+ port of the diagnostic thing; As far as I know, I should be getting 12v, is this right? Bypassing the fuel pump ECU with FP and +B does not work. Car has spark, just no fuel.
