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  Soarer Central * Air Conditioning and Climate Control * Need help identifying this part!!! Previous Previous    Next Next  

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Cameron James
Tinkerer
NSW
Soarer GT-TL

Posts: 17
Reg: 09-2009

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Friday, December 18, 2009 - 12:30 pm, by:  Cameron James (Dinosoarer) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hey - took the GT-TL in for a regas today and the mechanic found a leak. He is not sure what the part is and if it can be repaired/replaced.

There is a small leak coming from the sensor (highlighted by the arrow) but the component below the ABS unit has a leak as well.

Any ideas what it is?

Cheers!
Cameron James
Tinkerer
NSW
Soarer GT-TL

Posts: 19
Reg: 09-2009

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Friday, December 18, 2009 - 06:20 pm, by:  Cameron James (Dinosoarer) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Found it - Pressure Regulator Valve!

Anyone know if these can be overhauled??? They cost over $900 genuine and there is an 8-week delay ex-Japan!!! I need aircon!!!
Boris Siljanoski
Tinkerer
Western Australia
Soarer GZ20 TT

Posts: 39
Reg: 11-2007

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Sunday, December 20, 2009 - 05:31 pm, by:  Boris Siljanoski (Z2tt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi,

Yes it is the EPR (Evaporator Pressure Regulator) valve, or also called STV (Suction Throttling Valve).

It's a common problem for these to leak, I've head one leak in my z20. Unfortunately I'm not sure exactly how to go about overhauling it.

Some people have drilled the screwholes out and used bolts in order to get better clamping, which can reduce leaks.

Other people have pressed theirs on a clamp, which reduces the leak.

Some people have said that disassembling and re-assembling it fixed the leak.

When I had a leaky EPR, I began looking for Neoprene or HNBR sheets about 0.7 to 1mm thick, so I could make a gasket to go around the outer bit to stop the leak.

Your best bet would be to find a place that sells Neoprene or HNBR Sheets that are about 1mm or 0.7mm thick and make your own gasket.

Sometimes the screws can be extremely hard to remove so make sure you use a good screwdriver.
Cameron James
Tinkerer
NSW
Soarer GT-TL

Posts: 20
Reg: 09-2009

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Sunday, December 20, 2009 - 09:38 pm, by:  Cameron James (Dinosoarer) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks for the advice Boris - I will try to document my repair on the valve for everyone else to use... $900 is a bit steep!
Cameron James
Tinkerer
NSW
Soarer GT-TL

Posts: 22
Reg: 09-2009

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Monday, December 21, 2009 - 10:43 pm, by:  Cameron James (Dinosoarer) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Alrighty...

I got the valve out and disassembled on the bench and its clear how the leak is occurring

There is a diaphragm that is clamped between the valve body and the spring cap - the spring cap has a machined groove for the diaghragm seal to locate in (see below)



With the diagphragm in place the sealing edge sits slightly proud of the spring cap face and when clamped to the valve body achieves a tight seal (see below)



My theory is that by machining a couple of thou off the spring cap face this will reduce the height of the machined groove making the diaphragm seal sit further outwards, thus squashing tighter against the valve body - hopefully resolving the leak...

Will let you know the results when im done
Cameron James
Tinkerer
NSW
Soarer GT-TL

Posts: 23
Reg: 09-2009

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Tuesday, December 22, 2009 - 12:38 pm, by:  Cameron James (Dinosoarer) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Machined the spring cap down today

}


With a straightedge across the sealing surface, the machined groove had a clearance of 0.63mm - this has not been reduced to 0.34mm - with almost 1/2 the clearance removed the diagpram should clamp up a fair bit tighter between the housings and hopefully stop the leak....
Matthew Sharpe
Goo Roo
North Island
JZZ31

Posts: 5035
Reg: 10-2005

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Wednesday, December 23, 2009 - 06:29 am, by:  Matthew Sharpe (Madmatt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Clean laith!
Steve Latimer
TryHard
VIC
UZZ32

Posts: 338
Reg: 07-2005

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Wednesday, December 23, 2009 - 06:46 am, by:  Steve Latimer (Latsus) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Matthew Sharpe wrote on Wednesday, December 23, 2009 - 06:29 am:

Clean laith!




We call them 'lathes' over here, across the ditch, on the big island!
Cameron James
Tinkerer
NSW
Soarer GT-TL

Posts: 24
Reg: 09-2009

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Wednesday, December 23, 2009 - 07:56 am, by:  Cameron James (Dinosoarer) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

HA! Was the first time it was ever used! Took me about 45 minutes to get it going and 2 minutes to mill the part!
Matthew Sharpe
Goo Roo
North Island
JZZ31

Posts: 5038
Reg: 10-2005

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Thursday, December 24, 2009 - 05:46 am, by:  Matthew Sharpe (Madmatt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Was my best stab at spelling it, spell checker didn't complain so I didn't bother looking it up.

Cameron, did you use this as an excuse to buy it?
Cameron James
Tinkerer
NSW
Soarer GT-TL

Posts: 25
Reg: 09-2009

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Thursday, December 24, 2009 - 06:40 am, by:  Cameron James (Dinosoarer) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

HAAAHAHAHA! I would not be alive to write this post if my missus found out I'd bought a laith, but now you mention it... all i would need to do it take her for a ride on a baking-hot day and say "baby, its gonna cost me $10,000 to fix this air conditioning problem"

Nah I have a specialized tool room at my work full of equipment that doesn't get used very much - laith, drill press, grinders, press, etc. Its a hard life.
Cameron James
Tinkerer
NSW
Soarer GT-TL

Posts: 26
Reg: 09-2009

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Thursday, December 24, 2009 - 08:10 am, by:  Cameron James (Dinosoarer) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Fitted the valve yesterday arvo with new o-rings - stopped by the air-con mechanic this morning and got him to pressure test the system.................fixed.

Now I just have to wait for him to open next year so I can get it gassed.

I've made some enquiries about Hychill (thanks Boris) and searched the forum - most of the feedback seems positive but I have asked a couple of air-con mechanics and they run from it. Apparently its a thinner gas (compared to R143a) and will leak more easily.

Opinions?
Brian Rignall
Newbie
NSW
V8

Posts: 1
Reg: 12-2009

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Thursday, December 24, 2009 - 10:29 am, by:  Brian Rignall (Cashmere) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Just had my SC400 converted to R134, A/C wasn't working and diagnostics indicated low pressure.

Total cost was under $160 (ozzie).

The very professional garage advise me that Hychill is a nice marketing term for LPG (yep the stuff you use for BBQs and Heater etc).

It works fine as a refridgerant and generally effective.

Upside, folks who work on A/C don't need to do such rigourous certification and training as R134.

Downside, if you get a major leak... well it does burn pretty well!
Miles Baker
Goo Roo
Vic
66 Mustang GT Convertible, 55 Chevy Bel Air, 69 Firebird 455, 69 Nova SS Clone, 65 Mustang Fastback, 67 Mustang Convertible, 67 Camaro RS/SS

Posts: 2055
Reg: 08-2005

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Thursday, December 24, 2009 - 10:57 am, by:  Miles Baker (Milesb) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Everything I've heard says propane (Hychill) is less likely to leak than even R12. I would much rather have propane burn than a refrigerant burn. For example, burning R12 produces phosgene which will straight up kill you. Propane is also a lot better as a refrigerant than R134a, and doesn't have the problems playing well with others either.
Boris Siljanoski
Tinkerer
Western Australia
Soarer GZ20 TT

Posts: 67
Reg: 11-2007

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Tuesday, December 29, 2009 - 01:30 pm, by:  Boris Siljanoski (Z2tt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

In my opinion there is a lot of A/C Mechanics which don't know a whole lot about the job they do.

You must mean R134a not R143a.

Hydrocarbons such as Propane/Butane mix found in Hychill will leak out much slower than R12 and R134a, and the molecules are not smaller than the R12 or R134a molecules.

It uses the same gasses as LPG (Butane/Propane) if you want to look at it that way, but possibly more refined, different proportion of Propane/Butane compared to LPG for better cooling efficiency, also contains a UV Dye.

However many people have used LPG, or just Propane from their BBQ Cylinders in their cars without a problem.

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