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  Soarer Central * Mechanical - Common * Removing oil filter- the dummies guide * Archive through March 03, 2013 Previous Previous    Next Next  

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Trevor Marsh
Tinkerer
queensland
soarer tt

Posts: 22
Reg: 05-2012

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Monday, June 11, 2012 - 10:35 am, by:  Trevor Marsh (Tma7) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I've always hated working on cars. Bolts always get stuck, I lose important screws, everything always seems to be in stupidly awkward places and I end up with cuts, grazes and burns.

But as with so many of us, I have no choice as my local mechanics (who seem to have very little business so apparently try to get their money by charging what customers do go to them ridiculous prices) wanted an arm and a leg ($220) to do an oil change on my TT.

As Autobarn had a sale on this week I grabbed some Nulon 10w 40 Synthetic (as recommended on this site) and one of those oil filter wrenches that have a sort of webbing attached to a socket. The idea being that as you tighten up the socket, the webbing grabs the oil filter tightly and with a bit of a grunt, the filter politely obliges and comes loose.

No chance! I spent ages desperately trying to get at the filter both from the top (I have relatively skinny arms) and also from underneath.

Eventually I did manage to get the filter wrench around the filter but even though I'd thoroughly cleaned the filter body an hour earlier using meths, the webbing of the wrench simply slipped on the filter's shiny paintwork.It was also a Devil of a job getting the socket handle in such a tight space so that it could be turned even a few degrees.

I looked longingly at a large screwdriver I had nearby and was sorely tempted to do the old trick of sticking it in and turning (as I imagined it was really the Japanese bloke who 'designed' the filter's position all those years ago) but I somehow fought the temptation because once the filters punctured there's no going back if the filter still won't come off.

I ended up gluing on some sandpaper with the course side outwards on Saturday night. On Sunday I tried once again with my bare hands but although I could get more of a grip on the filter, I still couldn't get it to budge.

I cut several inches off the an old socket handle and tried again with the filter wrench but again, even though it was obvious the webbing wouldn't slip this time,the angle that I needed to turn the handle at was near impossible due to all sorts of bits and pieces that were in the way.

Swearing madly and cursing everything I spent even more time on Soarer Central and read up about a tool some others have used. I nipped down to Autobarn and grabbed one. It's called a 3 leg reversible oil filter wrench and it's made by Stanley. (number 997654 on the packaging) and it cost me $26.

This morning I positioned this tool (which as you may have seen in other threads on oil filter removal) which has three arms that go in and out and also a female socket so that all you have to do is slip it over the filter, attach the socket handle, gently click the ratchet until the arms grip the filter and then give the handle a twist (I used the handle I'd shortened the day before).

There was a glorious satisfaction as I felt the filter 'give' and then slowly spin open.Success!!

It shows me something I've always known (but sometimes ignore due to lack of funds) that excellent tools can make all the difference to a job.

I even resisted the temptation to hurl the old filter way way into the bush at the bottom of my block! Nah I'll kill it a more environmentally friendly way.
Ali Saeed
Goo Roo
WA
RSP GT-T

Posts: 3971
Reg: 09-2007

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Monday, June 11, 2012 - 10:55 am, by:  Ali Saeed (Ali) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

well done Trevor. That filter location is retarded. I also used the tool you described to remove it first go
David Henderson
TryHard
Nsw
TT

Posts: 299
Reg: 08-2007

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Monday, June 11, 2012 - 11:30 am, by:  David Henderson (Hendo) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

when you do it up, don't hang off it- screw til the seal makes contact, then an extra 1/2 turn.

they don't need to be really tight
Mike Triggs
Goo Roo
Western NSW
3.0GT G-Pack

Posts: 1793
Reg: 07-2005

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Monday, June 11, 2012 - 01:09 pm, by:  Mike Triggs (Mikeandimah) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


David Henderson wrote on Monday, June 11, 2012 - 11:30 am:

they don't need to be really tight




I agree, don't do them up too tight. I got two K&N filters (quite cheap) from UK last year, they have a nut on the bottom which isn't as useful as it sounds, it's quite rounded, it's an inch so 25mm socket won't fit and 26mm loose, and it's a bugger of a spot to get at at the best of times.

It is much cheaper and more satisfying to changes one's own oil though, even if it results in burned/skinned knuckles and a mess on the garage/carport floor. You get to use the oil of your choice, too.
Trevor Marsh
Tinkerer
queensland
soarer tt

Posts: 25
Reg: 05-2012

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Monday, June 11, 2012 - 01:28 pm, by:  Trevor Marsh (Tma7) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I'm glad you mentioned the oil on the garage floor Mike. Just spent half an hour getting it all off.

Tile and concrete cleaner did it reasonably well.
Wayne Womersley
TryHard
Victoria
Soarer V8

Posts: 235
Reg: 12-2011

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Monday, June 11, 2012 - 01:51 pm, by:  Wayne Womersley (A49kidx) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

So next time you will put down some newspaper or the big sheet of cardboard I have for that purpose. Good on ya Trev, at least you are having a go, and gaining knowledge along the way. After you have done it 4-5 times you will get it all down pat, even the clean up. And like Mike said, doing things yourself can be quite rewarding.
Katsuji Ueda
Tinkerer
Osaka
JZZ30 2.5GT-TL

Posts: 92
Reg: 07-2010

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Monday, June 11, 2012 - 02:04 pm, by:  Katsuji Ueda (Senrioka8) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Did you know this ?
Toyota made a small modification on Jan. '94 for oil filter bracket so that you can replace the oil filter more easily.
As you can see with the pics, they tilted the oil filter bracket.
The modified oil filter bracket part number is 15670-46080. It will cost ¥8,600.
I don't do any of those works myself but I'm thinking of replacing the bracket in the near future.



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Wayne Womersley
TryHard
Victoria
Soarer V8

Posts: 236
Reg: 12-2011

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Monday, June 11, 2012 - 02:11 pm, by:  Wayne Womersley (A49kidx) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Good post Katsuji.
Dan McColl
Goo Roo
Victoria (The Nazi State)
Pretty Red Thing and The Black Rattler

Posts: 3572
Reg: 07-2005

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Monday, June 11, 2012 - 04:05 pm, by:  Dan McColl (Hoon) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I'd aim for 3/4 to 1 turn after the seal touches. 1/2 a turn can work loose.

I do mine up as tight as I can by hand, Usually almost 1 turn and then that's enough.
Shane Haverkamp
DieHard
nsw
soarer TT

Posts: 803
Reg: 10-2007

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Monday, June 11, 2012 - 05:14 pm, by:  Shane Haverkamp (Havabeer) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

guess i'm lazy i just do it with the screw driver and bash the bastard off, just kind tap a dint into it and then tap the dint around till it works loose enough to turn by hand. this normally ends up with oil everywhere as all the stuff in the filter it self normally pours out the hole you end up bashing into it
Trevor Marsh
Tinkerer
queensland
soarer tt

Posts: 29
Reg: 05-2012

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Monday, June 11, 2012 - 06:01 pm, by:  Trevor Marsh (Tma7) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The reason I didn't go that way Shane, is it's my only means of transport and I live a fair few k's out of town and with no buses etc available.

I've done the 'poke and twist' bit many moons ago on other cars and although it usually worked out ok, on THIS occasion if I'd done the same but after doing so (and usually ripping the hell out of the filter itself) I found myself with less and less metal to turn, there would be no 'plan B' and without wheels I'm stuffed.
Mike Triggs
Goo Roo
Western NSW
3.0GT G-Pack

Posts: 1794
Reg: 07-2005

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Monday, June 11, 2012 - 06:27 pm, by:  Mike Triggs (Mikeandimah) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

"I've always hated working on cars. Bolts always get stuck, I lose important screws, everything always seems to be in stupidly awkward places and I end up with cuts, grazes and burns."

Try working on motorcycles, especially British ones, with a thousand weird bolts and threads:-)

"I've done the 'poke and twist' bit many moons ago on other cars..."

I've done it too, and it makes even more mess than usual...
Ali Saeed
Goo Roo
WA
RSP GT-T

Posts: 3973
Reg: 09-2007

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Monday, June 11, 2012 - 09:30 pm, by:  Ali Saeed (Ali) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I admire you Trevor. Most people in your situation wouldve gone FCUK IT and try and offload the car. Youve stuck to it and are having a go at fixing what needs to be fixed. Good on ya man!
David Grima
Goo Roo
WA
1JZ-GTE TT

Posts: 1412
Reg: 07-2007

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Monday, June 11, 2012 - 11:22 pm, by:  David Grima (Maltezr) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I agree doing oil changes yourself is better as you can choose the brand of oil you wish to..not what the workshop uses... I've personally always done my own oil changes on all my cars as its a pretty straight forward exercise...its a pity the filter location on the 1jz is in such a bastard of a spot, but you get used to it after a few oil changes lol... didn't know that they changed the angle of the filter bracket in 94 models Katsuji-san.. thanks for sharing, would make it a bit easier to take off I guess...
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

Posts: 6884
Reg: 03-2006

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Tuesday, June 12, 2012 - 08:20 am, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I use the k&n filters and they have a 1inch nut .

So unlike mike , I use a 1 inch socket , not an incorrect mm one ;)

Good find on the different bracket !!!
Mike Triggs
Goo Roo
Western NSW
3.0GT G-Pack

Posts: 1797
Reg: 07-2005

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Tuesday, June 12, 2012 - 09:42 am, by:  Mike Triggs (Mikeandimah) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Daniel Clarke wrote on Tuesday, June 12, 2012 - 08:20 am:

I use the k&n filters and they have a 1inch nut .

So unlike mike , I use a 1 inch socket , not an incorrect mm one ;)




I have a large collection of sockets, Daniel, but not 1", and I'm not going to pay for one now that I'm nearly 60... It's not so much the 26mm socket that was the problem, but actually fitting the ratchet in there!
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

Posts: 6885
Reg: 03-2006

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Tuesday, June 12, 2012 - 12:36 pm, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Bit of tongue in cheek mike :-)

I'm lucky with having both imperial and metric sets .

Haha , yeah just cause you can get the socket on doesn't mean the ratcheting is easy ...

But still , I have arms like tree stumps so it's doable for me that way .
Mike Triggs
Goo Roo
Western NSW
3.0GT G-Pack

Posts: 1798
Reg: 07-2005

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Tuesday, June 12, 2012 - 01:13 pm, by:  Mike Triggs (Mikeandimah) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Daniel Clarke wrote on Tuesday, June 12, 2012 - 12:36 pm:

Bit of tongue in cheek mike :-)




Yeah, I figured you were being jocular:-)

Seriously, I have a large collection of Imperial/SAE stuff but rarely use it, the last car that needed them was a piece of sh!t Commode 15 years ago- that was a mix of all sorts of stuff, including Metric (this country having Metricated about a decade before the Commode was made- GM obviously had a lot of SAE stuff to use up).
Shane Haverkamp
DieHard
nsw
soarer TT

Posts: 804
Reg: 10-2007

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Tuesday, June 12, 2012 - 06:16 pm, by:  Shane Haverkamp (Havabeer) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

we have alot of that metal putty stuff at work maybe i'll just start gluing on a nut of some description on the filter before i put it on just to make it easier later.
James Buchan
Goo Roo
Vic
V8

Posts: 1388
Reg: 10-2008

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Friday, June 15, 2012 - 10:48 am, by:  James Buchan (Jrbuch) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Took a look at the oil filter location on my 1J, you guys are right - the position sucks. The 1UZ oil filter location is much better.

So - oil filter relocation kits, what's a good one?
Matthew Sharpe
Goo Roo
North Island
JZZ31

Posts: 6699
Reg: 10-2005

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Friday, June 15, 2012 - 01:16 pm, by:  Matthew Sharpe (Madmatt) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I've never come across a turbo car that had a good factory oil filter position.
Boris Siljanoski
Goo Roo
Western Australia
LS400 + Soarer.

Posts: 1572
Reg: 11-2007

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Friday, June 15, 2012 - 09:32 pm, by:  Boris Siljanoski (Z2tt) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi,

Use a tool called "Oil Filter Pliers" to remove the oil filter, you can reach it from the side of the inlet manifold from the top, grip the filter and spin it loose, they grip it well. That's all you need :

Darren Bauer
TryHard
Victoria
Soarer TT & Aristo TT

Posts: 325
Reg: 04-2010

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Saturday, February 23, 2013 - 12:16 pm, by:  Darren Bauer (Dazmon) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I wish I would have read this thread last weekend, I actually had that Stanley remover tool in my hand and the kind young salesguy talked me into getting the cheaper Stanley tool with the belt, haven't tried it yet, but hopefully I don't have to buy a 4th tool (I broke the first 2 metal ring ones).
Boris Siljanoski
Goo Roo
Western Australia
LS400 + Soarer.

Posts: 1852
Reg: 11-2007

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Saturday, February 23, 2013 - 05:58 pm, by:  Boris Siljanoski (Z2tt) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I'd personally reckon the best would be to get an oil filter with a large nut on it that way you don't need to position annoying bulky tools on it.
Peter Nitschke
Junk Filterer
South Australia
UZZ30 UZZ31

Posts: 12460
Reg: 11-2004

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Sunday, March 03, 2013 - 03:07 pm, by:  Peter Nitschke (Pen) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I find the belt one are a pain. By the time it is in position and then you turn it enough for the belt to tighten, you have run out of room to turn it further and loosen the filter.

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