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Ben Lipman
DieHard
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 919
Reg: 04-2006

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Wednesday, October 08, 2008 - 09:47 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hey all. Although somewhat intimidated by Andrew's sports sedan thread, I thought I may post up my project also. If nothing else I'll show how it is done on the cheap by someone learning as they go.

Firstly a little history. I went to buy this car from Ichiban in Liverpool, Sydney only to find it had been sold for the princely sum of $4000. Adrian, on these forums, had bought the car for use as a drifter. He began stripping the bulk of the interior, fitted new wheels, a seat, and an aftermarket steering wheel. He also put a set of HSD HR’s in the rear as the fronts already had some Japanese coilovers. He also rearranged some of the rear bodywork at one of the drift meets he attended. As a result of a family matter, he had to sell the car. Having missed out on it once already, I paid the asking price of $4000, rented a trailer, borrowed a Ute and headed off to the big smoke to pick it up.

The car sat at a mate’s house for a couple of months as I tried to figure out just what I’d done. I realised I didn’t have a trailer to tow the car anywhere. $3000 later I had a brand new car trailer, and an inkling that this cheap race car, was going to end up quite an expensive proposition. I then realised I don’t have a tow bar. Borrow the mates Ute once again and set about locating a tow bar for the road Soarer or the Subaru Liberty wagon. Now those of you who know your cars will realise that the max towed load on a Liberty is 1500kg, and the best tow bar I could find for the Soarer was rated to 1200kg. Neither of these is going to pull the Track Soarer on a car trailer. So now we are looking to replace the five year old Subi with something with a 2 tonne towing capacity but still nice enough to use as the wife’s family car. More to follow on that front...


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Now I have finally got the track car at home I have started to get stuck into it. I removed the sun roof and every bit of wiring not needed from the boot. Why did I start there? Because the Soarer wiring is very intimidating, and there are only three things I needed to run in the boot area: fuel tank; lights; and ABS sensors (although these may get the arse too!)

I have been working my way to the front of the car with the wiring painstakingly removing the unnecessary wiring. There is a lot of it. I may have removed too much as there is now an ugly Japanese message on the dash, and the tacho no longer works. The blinkers also went MIA until I found the wiring for the hazard light switch in the discard pile.


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Ben Lipman
DieHard
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 920
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Wednesday, October 08, 2008 - 09:51 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I took some time off from the wiring nightmare to tackle the sound deadener. I was not going to bother, but 20 kg is 20 kg. I wanted to use dry ice, but finding that in Singleton is harder than I ever imagined. So I improvised with normal ice, CRC freeze spray and a cold chisel. I am 85% there and not looking forward to the last 15%. At least it doesn’t need a wiring diagram! I also got rid of the body deadener under the boot and the bonnet, and fire wall. I am beginning to think 20kg is conservative. The fire wall accounted for 7kg alone. Passenger foot well another 2kg.

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James Harris
Goo Roo
QLD
XTR T-66 Turbo

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Wednesday, October 08, 2008 - 06:49 pm, by:  James Harris (Haro) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

haha awesome.

Best bit... the 3500 dollar car trailer hah

ill keep reading!
Ben Lipman
DieHard
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Wednesday, October 08, 2008 - 07:58 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Another fun filled day today. We (me and the Boy) finished off the sound deadener. All it needs is a wipe down with a solvent to get the last little pieces.

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Figured it was time to remove the underbonnet AC stuff. After the drama with the underdash AC I was expecting the worst. And I got it. I toiled away dutifully following the workshop manual. Out came the condensor(radiator thingo), collector (behind headlight), and all the associated plumbing. I saved the compressor until last. The book said "Step 6:undo 4 bolts and nut. Step 7: remove compressor." What it should have said is "there is no way known you are going to get that out of there with the engine inside the car." After completing step 6, it became painfully obvious that there was not enough room between the guard and block the allow the compressor to clear the end of the 4inch stud it was on. After partially disassembling the IC piping, power steering lines, and jacking the engine off the mounts a couple of inches I was able to get it out. At 7kg for the compressor alone, that is one hefty piece of gear.
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After lunch and everything was put back together I did a guestimation of the belt length reduction due to the compressor not being there- about 50mm. Down to the local auto parts store to find a new belt, part number unknown. After a couple of misses I tracked down a 6pk1885 belt, with a promise that if it didn't fit I could bring it back and try another one. Low and behold it fit first go, smack bang on the center mark. I am waiting for it to self destruct or turn into a pumkin at midnight.
Ben Lipman
DieHard
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Wednesday, October 08, 2008 - 08:05 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

On the wiring issue, I now have an ugly red message flashing at me in japanese. The computer must be really mad, because it usually flashes at me in english. I also have no tacho reading, and the trip meter does not seem to be working. On the positive side the speedo still works. If there are any electrical gurus out there who can point me in the right direction, I'd be most happy. I am pretty sure I have not removed anything to cause this, but after the hazard light issue I can not be certain.

Looks like it is back to that wiring manual.
James Johnson
Goo Roo
Victoria
92 TT , and 93 TT Manual

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Wednesday, October 08, 2008 - 08:31 pm, by:  James Johnson (Jamesy) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

nice work with the car! i picked up the white one that was at ichibhan.

do the diagnostic test to see what error code comes up and then go from there.
Joshua Rao
Goo Roo
WA
JZZ30 vvti GT-L

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Wednesday, October 08, 2008 - 09:56 pm, by:  Joshua Rao (Soaren1) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Nice read. What did Adrian do with the black interior?
Ben Lipman
DieHard
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Thursday, October 09, 2008 - 07:35 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

James, guess I have to read that section of the forum- My road car does not have the diagnostic port-or I've never found it.

Josh- The interior was spruce, and he sold it off to buy the race seat etc.
Jeff Bedsor
TryHard
QLD
TT

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Thursday, October 09, 2008 - 08:44 am, by:  Jeff Bedsor (Jeff_bedsor) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Ben Lipman wrote on Wednesday, October 08, 2008 - 07:58 pm:

allow the compressor to clear the end of the 4inch stud it was on



Ben I had the same problem, after a lot of swearing I realised that the stud screws out very easily.
Ben Lipman
DieHard
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Thursday, October 09, 2008 - 09:14 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Jeff- you know, I thought about trying that, but I was already putting the jack under the sump. I wish I had now.

The computer has obviously grown impatient with this silly round eye as the display no longer flashes at me in japanese. It now flashes the time once and then blanks out. This is more pleasant than the constant red flashing, but not very helpful in finding the problems with the diagnostics.

The only thing I have changed from the last time I started it was disconnect and reconnect the battery- effectively resetting the ECU. Is it possible that after a reset, the ECU discovered a sensor or two disconnected and decided this is the new normal?

Problems to solve today:

1. Figure out the ecu/display problems

2. Fix tacho display - locate sender and check wiring is intact.

3. Figure out how to stop AC fan (on radiator) from being on constantly - maybe fit a toggle switch or remove it completely.

4. Make switch holder/arm rest for drivers door.
James Harris
Goo Roo
QLD
XTR T-66 Turbo

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Thursday, October 09, 2008 - 10:46 am, by:  James Harris (Haro) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

2) - Aftermarket wanker tacho that reads up to 12000RPM install with a hektic shift light ?

3) - Just unplug it... or better yet pull the whole thing out (think of all the weight you will save haha)
Ben Lipman
DieHard
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Thursday, October 09, 2008 - 03:02 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The red flashing message is back. The translation is "alternator not charging battery". I'll have to investigate that further. Maybe it just needs a drive. The diagnostic came up "EFI OK". Should there be more?

James: it is the factory tacho display, which I think will suit me just fine if I can figure out what I've done to it. I'll avoid "wanker tacho" so I can afford "look at me boost, oil pressure, and oil temp gauges" in the future. I am seriously considering the removal of the fan...but I'm thinking every bit of cooling is going to help survive the rigours of track work.
Ben Lipman
DieHard
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Thursday, October 09, 2008 - 07:57 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Got very little done today. We went looking for a new family car and have put some money down on an X-Trail. 2 tonne towing capacity, manual, and nice to drive around town. You'd be surprised how hard it is to find something to fit those three simple criteria. Commodore, nope. Falcon, uh-uh. Anything from Toyota, nada. There are a lot of kiddie killer 4wds that'll do it, but I refuse to spend fifty thousand bucks on some big thing that'll climb Ayers Rock, because I know I'll never try it.

So todays effort:

1. Initially there was no display at all. After lunch it was back to its old tricks, but I now know the EFI is OK, and the alternator is not charging the battery. And if I leave the paper clip in the diagnostics port the red message stays away. We'll call that a fail.

2. Umm, fail.

3. Fell off the priority list. Fail.

4. Attempted to make something out of expanding foam, which according to the can can be sanded and shaped. A blob of sticky goop is a shape I guess. Might be able to resurrect this tomorrow, other wise this will be a Fail, and I'm now looking for a new window switch panel.

5. I know there were only 4 things on the list but after the first 4 failures I needed a win. So we installed a brake master cylinder brace I knocked up.
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Oh, if anyone recognises the front coilovers from the colour, and knows what the settings are, I'd love to hear from you. There are no markings that I can see on the body itself.
Charlie Ters
TryHard
nsw
'Single' biggest mistake :-)

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Thursday, October 09, 2008 - 08:53 pm, by:  Charlie Ters (Ul05st) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

very nice read.... am very interested in the final results

however, ive always wondered if a soarer can break the 1300kg mark..... (well soon find out i guess :-) )
Peter Nitschke
Junk Filterer
South Australia
UZZ30 UZZ31

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Friday, October 10, 2008 - 03:23 am, by:  Peter Nitschke (Pen) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Nice looking brake booster brace.
Ben Lipman
DieHard
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Friday, October 10, 2008 - 08:05 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks Pen. This is the first one I made. the second is on the road car and looks neater, sturdier, but is a lot heavier.

Charlie- The car started life as a Pov pack manual so it was around 1540kg. I am aiming for 1300kg (purely because I had to pick a number, and to give me some head room under the 2 tonne tow mark).

I will throw it on the weigh bridge once I think I'm done.

Today I attempted to fix the expanding foam catastrophe from yesterday. I now have a functional, if somewhat unattractive arm rest/switch holder. I figured I may as well keep the power mirrors, windows, and door locks in place. If I ever decide to try and enter the car in a particular class or event I'll look at it again then.
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The rest of the morning was spent rectifying little things, such as re-securing the brake lines to the fire wall, and tackling the las untouched loom in the cabin- down the driver side.

I have unplugged the AC condensor fan until I bother removing it or fitting a toggle switch. I'll take advice here if someone has got it. Is there a significant benefit either way. I don't want to go and buy Thermo fans at this stage as the factory job will be OK hopefully.

Also the 'clean headlight mafia' will be happy to hear I cleaned and polished the headlights. They were the worst I'd ever seen. They don't look too bad now.

I have to admit my passion for watching motor racing overcame my desire to build a race car around 1255pm, and I went inside to watch the Bathurst coverage.
Phil Gibson
Goo Roo
WA
'91 UZZ31 track bunky, '94 blk/blk UZZ31

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Sunday, October 12, 2008 - 02:17 pm, by:  Phil Gibson (Sciflyer) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ben the fan at full speed issue is solved by plugging back in the pressure switch that is on the a/c pipework that you would have removed, on the V8s its on the passenger side near the firewall

:-)

Nice work picking this up, i havnt touched the wiring yet on my V8 track bunky for the reasons you have encountered!
Ben Lipman
DieHard
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Sunday, October 12, 2008 - 07:28 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Phil, what will I gain by plugging this pressure switch back in? I'm assuming the fan will then either not work, or work constantly (depending on what the atmospheric pressure is versus what it expects to see inside the closed system.) I might have a play with it next weekend. I was planning to run a toggle switch so I can turn it on/off as I need it, eg to help cool the engine after a session. Option B was to ditch it altogether if the additional cooling is minimal.

I have not weighed all the useless crap I've pulled out but I can tell you there is a couple of kilos in the stereo/AC/TEMS wiring. I ended up with a solid bundle about football size.
Ben Lipman
DieHard
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Sunday, October 12, 2008 - 07:51 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

In between Saturday and Sunday Bathurst coverage. I managed to cross a few more items off the list.

I have now removed the sound deadener in the boot. I now believe I have got it all. The car is too low for me to check under there. That'll come later.

I finally got around to fixing/finishing off my perspex replacement for the sunroof. I may, in the future, replace this with a piece of tin. I'll see how this goes for the time being.
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I also got the drivers seat back in. I have moved it on its mounts so that it is closer to the centre of the car and more central to the steering wheel. Previously it felt like I was sitting to the right of the pedals and wheel. I am now considering relocating the hand brake to the left hand side of the transmission tunnel. With the lower seating position and the height of the hand brake it is almost in the way. The bolt holes are there already so this will be a no brainer. I'll have to take it for a drive somewhere and make a decision on this.

The drivers side wiring is also finished. There was not much to be gained here, only a few TEMS and seat harness looms.

It is back to work this week, so from here on in I'll have to find whatever time there is between work, family, and kids sporting engagements.
Michael Keen
DieHard
nsw
Soarer TT

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Sunday, October 12, 2008 - 08:21 pm, by:  Michael Keen (Spoilt) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

and wasnt the v8's result a poor one. dam ford :-) o well at least it will be quite around town now and no more traffic delays hehe
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

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Sunday, October 12, 2008 - 09:07 pm, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

GO THE FOrds..........

Coming along nicely Ben.
Phil Gibson
Goo Roo
WA
'91 UZZ31 track bunky, '94 blk/blk UZZ31

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Monday, October 13, 2008 - 03:45 am, by:  Phil Gibson (Sciflyer) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ben im assuming the V8s are similar to the TTs despite not having the separate electric fan but on a car with the a/c system removed plugging the pressure switch back in to the loom will stop the fan from running flat out all the time and allow it to run only as required by the engine

Presumably you could then use an appropriate connection to the switch pins to manually control the fan...
Ben Lipman
DieHard
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Monday, October 13, 2008 - 06:32 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hmmm. Worth a try I guess.

I have been looking at the CAMS manual, schedule A & B, which covers basic vehicle requirements. It seems I have some work to do as my car is not going to be registered.

Secondary bonnet restraint(maybe-seems to be up to individual scrutineers!), remove steering lock, fit two tailshaft loops, make blanking plates for fire wall holes, plate up or cover door frame holes, fit throttle return springs (if the factory set up doesn't satisfy) and a few other 'recommended' items.

Oh, I also looked under the road car today. There is tonnes of sound deadener under there also! And I thought I was done with that chisel.

Any one know how to remove the steering lock? It seems to be cast into the column.
Shaun Chiew
TryHard
VIC
Soarer TT

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Monday, October 13, 2008 - 09:44 pm, by:  Shaun Chiew (Senk9) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Excellent work Ben, I'm amazed how quickly you got everything done .. I will be watching with much interest.

Some notes I jotted down while reading above:

* AC compressor - I removed it without lifting the engine, yes it's a complete pain! If you're not planning on having a heater, removing the entire heater box + hard heater hoses would go a way to reaching your 1300kg goal
* Speedo reading - There is a specific wire in the orange wiring box near the passenger side footwell which controls speedo reading to the dash, this might be worth a look, I can find the wire location if required
* AC condensor - Removed + removed fan too, no apparent adverse effects
* Door switches - I ended up putting my window switches in the door pod near the front of the doors when I removed the door trim, and then made up some aluminium door trim which is cut to size (pics on my thread here -
http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/messages/51875/240331.html)
* Sunroof - GREAT work with the sunroof, that looks very nice, can I ask how you made the perspex piece? Any information/specs would be great as I'm looking to do the same very soon.
* Steering lock - this is done by a small notch inside the key barrel part of the ignition barrel. There is a screw at the back which holds it in, then a locking clip and once that comes out you can then file off the protrusion which allows for steering lock.
Ben Lipman
DieHard
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Tuesday, October 14, 2008 - 07:37 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Cheers Shaun. I only found your thread last night. I'm going to have to read it again slower, or print it off. It seems you have done some of the things I want to do, and I've tackled some of your future ideas.

The sunroof is made frome a single 900x600x3mm 'hobby panel' from the local Mitre 10. It cost me $35 but scanned at $45. It seems the price is about to go up.

I simply laid it over the hole and used a permanent pen to trace the outline. The front edge (I think) is straight so I used the straight edge of the perspex as a start point. I used a jigsaw with a fine blade to cut it out and then used coarse sand paper and files to do the final shaping.

I used alloy right angle and alloy strap(bar) to make the bracing, setting it all 3mm from the roof surface. It is all held in with rivets. A word to the wise when you go to drill the perspex- let the drill do the work. I pushed too hard and cracked several holes on the first go. The second time around was much easier as I just used the first as a template, and drilled with some MDF sheet as a backing. No cracks. I also used some sealer suitable for use with poly carbonates that dries clear on all the bracing, and of course the gaps around the edges. Hopefully this will dampen any vibration and reduce fatigue on the perspex holes etc.

Pen maybe moving all the track car type threads to one location. This will only aid in the sharing of information in my opinion.

Thanks for the heads up on the steering lock etc. Work will slow down now I am back working. I had a week off looking after the boys in the hols and had a list of stuff I wanted to get done. I'm back in the list phase again so I can get ready for the next burst of energy.
Ben Lipman
DieHard
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Sunday, October 19, 2008 - 07:42 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The weekend saw very little done as I had to work both days. I did however buy some parts (tailshaft loop, bonnet pins, bloody big floor jack, and a Nissan X-Trail).

I managed to fit the bonnet pins. This is a lot more time consuming than I first thought. A lot of fiddling around getting it right, without destroying the bonnet in the process. No photos, as I ran out of light.

I also tried top make a tow hook to suit the CAMS requirements. After a lot of work I have decided the $20 job on ebay looks like a bloody good deal and will order one after this.

I experimented with the tail shaft loop. It is a generic loop that supposedly can be fitted to most cars. The Soarer is not most cars. Looks like I'm going to have to buy some flat 5mm steel bar and have a go at making my own. There is a heat shield in the tunnel that would probably do the job, but I'm not sure what a scrutineer would have to say about it.

In addition to the Oran Park track day in Jan 09 (this forum but organised by JCCC) I have just applied for entry into a track day run by "circuit club" at Wakefield Park in Mid December. Hopefully I have something ready to run at this event.
Ben Lipman
DieHard
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Friday, October 24, 2008 - 05:50 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

This weekend I aim to get most of the essential safety requirements done. I have just realised that Indy is on, so there is a good chance I'll get distracted. Might have to set the hard drive.

The list is pretty long. It includes:

Make and fit tail shaft loops
Fit CAMS approved tow points
Make new harness mounts to meet CAMS guidelines
Make blanking plates for firewall holes
Remove steering wheel lock
Upgrade fire extinguisher mount to meet CAMS guidelines
Blank out holes in doors, or make door trims

Also I want to make a new front pipe to replace what can only be described as a disgraceful factory item. I had no idea that there was such a difference across the models. My other TT has a different front pipe. I'll take some pics to show what I mean later. The new one will be three inch and utilise mandrel bends. The front flange will be a bit tricky due to the strange angle. If I don’t get it done, I’m not too concerned, as the car can be driven as is.
Ben Lipman
DieHard
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Saturday, October 25, 2008 - 08:01 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Well today went alright.

I fitted my front tow hook. I wanted it easily accessible so I bolted it to the chassis rail (same area as stock tow point) using grade 8.8 bolts. I cut a slot for it to poke through the front bumper using a jigsaw and some careful filing.
Upload


I also finished constructing a tail shaft loop and fitted it to the car, just to the rear of the front uni joint. So glad I bought that welder now. Once again grade 8.8 bolts were utilised to bolt it through the trans tunnel.
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I also made up some blanking plates for the holes in the firewall out of ally checker plate kindly donated by Paul.

Next, I beefed up the fire extinguisher mount using 6mm bolts to keep CAMS happy. I was unable to find somewhere to mount it across the car as the advise and still be able to reach it whilst in the seat. I guess I could put it just in front of my seat...

I also remounted the rear harness straps so they were more level, once again to better meet the CAMS requirements. I was able to utilise one of the stock seat belt mounts, but had to make up a custom mount for the other. Using 3mm steel I made up a plate 50x80mm and welded a nut to it. I then drilled through the parcel shelf area and bolted the harness up.

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Ben Lipman
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NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Saturday, October 25, 2008 - 08:14 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I also started to make a new front pipe. As I have already said the factory piece on there is a nasty little thing. The photo below shows from the top: what I thought was stock (from my road Soarer); the new 3 inch pipe I'm fabricating; and the stock front pipe off the track car.
Upload


Tomorrow I'll finish this off and tackle the steering lock and the interior "trim" on the doors to cover up any sharp edges.

I'm still waiting for the second tow hook to come from ebay. 3 days postage, my arse.
Matthew Standage
Tinkerer
w.a.
jzz30 tt

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Sunday, October 26, 2008 - 12:14 am, by:  Matthew Standage (Matstandage) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

are you going to remove the intrusion bars and airbag at all if so let us know how much they weigh for curiosities sake
Ben Lipman
DieHard
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Soarer TT manual

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Sunday, October 26, 2008 - 07:50 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I don't have an air bag, and the intrusion bars will stay unless I end up fitting a cage.

I do have ABS, which I want to get rid of. After having a bit of a poke around, I realise I need all the brake lines off a non ABS car, and the master cylinder as well. I could probably drill and tap the ABS master cylinder to take the third line, but I'd rather not mess with such a vital component.
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
JZZ30 - Transforming into a UZZ30! '84 MA61 Supra, '05 2ZZ Corolla Sportivo.

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Sunday, October 26, 2008 - 08:50 am, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Ben Lipman wrote on Wednesday, October 08, 2008 - 09:47 am:

Although somewhat intimidated by Andrew's sports sedan thread, I thought I may post up my project also




No need to be intimidated, I'm a very nice person!

You're doing an excellent job on the car Ben, and it seems you've got the welding/fabrication skills that I lack. Glad to see someone looking at the CAMS manual too - easier to do it right now than wait for a scrutineer to red card you.

Love how you're getting the family involved, and now you've got me looking at the X-trail as a tow-car option.

Keep up the good work (and enthusiasm).
Ben Lipman
DieHard
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Sunday, October 26, 2008 - 07:35 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Andrew McKellar wrote on Sunday, October 26, 2008 - 08:50 am:

it seems you've got the welding/fabrication skills that I lack




NOPE! I bought a welder when I got home from a trip away, and figured I learn to weld. I just like making stuff. Before welding it was wood work- I have made nearly every bit of furniture in the house. I wouldn't have tried most of this on my 'good' Soarer, but with the track car there isn't much to lose.

X-trail: we are not 4x4 people, but there is very little that will tow 2 tonnes. I wanted the turbo diesel (it just pulls and pulls) but seeing as it was the wifes car she had the final choice. I'll probably only tow a few times a year, so getting something she didn't like was unjustifiable.

As for the family, if you spend a lot of time on something, anything, and exclude the wife and kids, they'll just end up resenting it. We are all off to Oran Park for the Grand finale in December, and they'll likely come down to wakefield for my first track day in the Soarer. Both the boys love being in the shed with Dad. We own a playstation but haven't seen it since I broke my ankle three years ago...
Ben Lipman
DieHard
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Sunday, October 26, 2008 - 07:49 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

As for todays efforts...

I finished up the exhaust and fitted it. It sits nice and high, just like the factory system. The only problem is that I made both the tail shaft hoop and exhaust at the same time and exclusively. Now that it is all fitted, I have found that there is about 6-7 mm (1/4 inch) of clearance between the hoop and new exhaust. I just know it is going to hit the hoop once I get it on the road, er, track. Looks like I'm not finished under there after all.


Upload


I also removed the AC condensor fan. I may some day fit twin thermos if I need to.

I used a thin hobby sheet of ally to plate up the holes in the door skins. This was done after reading a technical article written by a Goulburn based scrutineer. He was concerned about the sharp edges left after the 'popular mod' of removing the door trims was done. Hopefully I've addressed this as the car did not come with door trims. I also made another arm rest/switch panel. Third times a charm.
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I still haven't tackled the steering/ignition lock yet. I had a quick look but nothing jumped out at me. I'll have to seek further guidance from Shaun on how to remove it.
Ben Lipman
DieHard
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Sunday, October 26, 2008 - 07:57 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Oops, forgot to post the piccy of the exhaust.

Upload


I did find another problem with the car today. After running the car for a while to get the exhaust hot and check for leaks I found a leak of a different kind. The top radiator tank has a heap of stress fractures in it and coolant is 'frothing' out. Only a tiny bit, but it wont do. Now I guess I need to look into replacement options for the end tanks, or purchase a new radiator complete. Maybe an alloy one? Time to do a search on the forum...

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Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

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Sunday, October 26, 2008 - 08:17 pm, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Supra Alloy ones will fit with minimal modification... I think you just have to raise them iirc? SOmething about 2 mounting rubbers on the bottom ?
Paul Kalie
Tinkerer
NSW
TT

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Sunday, October 26, 2008 - 08:32 pm, by:  Paul Kalie (Ajzs) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Looking good mate, I like how the tailshaft loop came out.
Phil Gibson
Goo Roo
WA
'91 UZZ31 track bunky, '94 blk/blk UZZ31

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Sunday, October 26, 2008 - 10:13 pm, by:  Phil Gibson (Sciflyer) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Top work Ben, i also started making up ally plates for the door holes today too

I think with the fire extinguisher you wont be allowed to mount it in front of your seat as they deem this to be a risk if it gets loose and jams under the pedals

I think mounting it in the same spot on teh passengers side is fine though an is viewed as "in reach"?
Fredrik Øksnevad
Newbie
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Soarer JZZ30 1JZ-GTE

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Tuesday, October 28, 2008 - 07:12 am, by:  Fredrik Øksnevad (FØksnevad) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Cool!

I just wonder if the belt, by nr. 6pk1885, fits right on??? Have you started the engine after you replaced the belt..?? I'm doing the same job now my self, so i need to know that the belt are working.. :-)
Ben Lipman
DieHard
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Soarer TT manual

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Tuesday, October 28, 2008 - 06:58 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

any belt 6PK1885 will fit once the AC pump is removed. This is a standard sizing method.

6PK = 6 ribs (and some other stuff)
1885 = belt length.

Yes the car has started, and been driven a short distance. The belt fits fine.
Ben Lipman
DieHard
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Tuesday, October 28, 2008 - 07:02 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Phil Gibson wrote on Sunday, October 26, 2008 - 10:13 pm:

I think mounting it in the same spot on teh passengers side is fine though an is viewed as "in reach"?




The only problem is I can't really reach it over on the passenger floor with the belts on. I can touch it, but I think you need to be able to undo the restraint and remove it from the bracket. I hope to get the car down to the local MG club (I'm now a member) for one of their hillclimbs so the scrutineer there can have a look at it. I'd hate to drive to Wakefield (7hr drive) to be told to pack it up.
Peter Nitschke
Junk Filterer
South Australia
UZZ30 UZZ31

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Tuesday, October 28, 2008 - 07:23 pm, by:  Peter Nitschke (Pen) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ben, I mounted mine behind the drivers seat and can get at it OK while strapped in.

http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/messages/287/459.html?1099538552
Ben Lipman
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Soarer TT manual

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Tuesday, October 28, 2008 - 07:34 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hmmm.

Can't say I would've thought of that. I don't have that trim piece, or the metal bracket there any more, so it may be a bit further away. I'll have to try that out.

Otherwise, I'm happy with where mine is at the moment...as long as the rules don't change.
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
JZZ30 - Transforming into a UZZ30! '84 MA61 Supra, '05 2ZZ Corolla Sportivo.

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Tuesday, October 28, 2008 - 08:19 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hey Ben, I'm still not sure that your door panel will comply - the problem being that there are still things that your hand/sleeve can get caught in during a collision, which (assuming worst case scenario, which is what you should do) means your arm may rip off with the door in the right kind of crash. If you like I'll send your photo to a scrutineer I know, and he may be able to advise you.

BTW, not joking about that type of injury either:


Upload


The Toymax member on the left is my old man, Rod. Notice something about his right hand? So it does happen.

This photo shows how the door of the Corolla was sorted (sorry, not the best photo, but it's all I could find...) :


Upload


Just PM me if you want me to find out more from the scrutineer for you.

Cheers
Ben Lipman
DieHard
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Wednesday, October 29, 2008 - 06:21 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

That would be great.

The car was run at a drift meet with nothing on the doors at all(by its previous owner) with nothing said. Drift meet = bit more relaxed standards???

I only picked up on the door trim thing after reading an article written by a scrutineer. Any help will be appreciated.
Ben Lipman
DieHard
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Saturday, November 01, 2008 - 06:50 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Well last night I fitted the rear tow hook and raised the tailshaft loop to address my clearance problems.

Upload

Upload


All I did was replace the factory tow point with the tow hook. This one was an ebay job. I bought it because the wider base would give me plenty of width to meet up with the factory mounting point. I had to cut through the bumper again, but I'm happy with the appearance.

Through the week I removed the radiator and took it down to the local Natrad. He gave me some options (alloy core, full alloy radiator, and replacement header tank) and some advice. He was of the opinion that the factory radiator/cooling system is a good thing, and by adding a thicker alloy core I may upset the balance of airflow/coolant volume etc.

On his advice, and seeing as money is drying up, I am getting a new top tank and a thorough clean for $200. I have no intention to up the power significantly at this stage. If I do have cooling problems, I'll address them when they occur, with the bonus of having a spare radiator for the road car.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Friday, November 07, 2008 - 05:58 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

"New" radiator is in. It is actually the old one reconditioned, but you wouldn't know it to look at it.

The Supra rims arrived some time ago, but I did not have any wheel nuts to fit them. A trip to the wreckers yesterday solved that. I now have around 30 of them for $10 plus 20 minutes of friendly conversation with the old fella running the joint. (I think he is now going to buy a Soarer- he was pretty impressed!)

I have ordered some Toyo R888 semi slick tyres 235/45/17. The 275/40/17 I wanted for the rear will not be in Australia until some time in December, so I bought 4 of theses from ebay for $1400 delivered. If any one needs comparisons on DOT approved semi slick tyres, I'm your man. I have agonised over them for the last few weeks.

Another member (Andrew) has been helping out with a confirmation my door trims may not pass scrutineering. Last night I began fabricating an inner skin from a sheet(s) of ally. I have decided that I will move all the switch gear from the door to the centre panel, seeing as I'm having so much trouble making something that will pass inspection.

I'll get some photos tonight. Those on the Harrigans cruize tomorrow, I'll have the car at Harrigans Pub. I have never towed with either the Xtrail or the new trailer, so I figured this may be a good chance to rehearse myself. Something different to look at as well.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Sunday, November 09, 2008 - 06:36 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Finished the door trim and relocating all the switchgear from the door.
Upload

Upload


Also swapped the adjustable sway bars from the road car to the track car. Whilst I was under there I had a good look at the mystery front coilovers. It turns out they are "Kei office" items, and the lower mounting bushes are flogged out. I am checking into the whether or not these can be rebushed, or just biting the expensive bullet and buying a pair of HSD HRs to match the rears. The little info I found on the net suggests the Kei office are a good thing, and they are usually pretty stiffly sprung so they should suit the car. There is a pic below of what they look like- if you know anything about them I'm happy to hear it.
Upload
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
JZZ30 - Transforming into a UZZ30! '84 MA61 Supra, '05 2ZZ Corolla Sportivo.

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Sunday, November 09, 2008 - 08:41 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

That door lining looks heaps better Ben, and I don't think you'll have any more dramas passing scrutineering with it.

I love the minimalist style of the gauges too. Blue on silver is a great look!

Got any pics of the adjustable sway bar? I'd love to know more about it.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Monday, November 10, 2008 - 07:01 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The gauges are nice and cheap. The car runs like a dream as the temps never move. I am a bit concerned that I cant make any boost though...

The sway bars were a Whiteline/selby group buy here a while back. Box said whiteline, instructions and web traffic said whiteline, but sticker says selby?

Either was they are adjustable by different mounting holes, two for the front and three for the rear. I have a pick of the front below. I think whiteline do a blade adjustable but don't quote me.
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Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Monday, November 10, 2008 - 08:23 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The Toyo R888s arrived today. Four of 235/45/17 for $1400 delivered. Got them from StGeorge tyres via ebay, and they were on my door 3 working days later.

I had intended to put them on the (front) supra rims I have, and buy some 275/40/17 R888s from the local distributer when they arrive in Australia in December for the rears.

It now looks like the Kei Office front coilovers may be more trouble than they are worth in the long run, and I may have to fork out $800 to buy HSD HR for the front. I can't keep spending money hand over fist, so I am now thinking of fitting the Toyos to the 17x7.5 wheels that were on the car. At least that way I can get the car onto a track and buy larger tyres for the Supra rims later next year.

This really is harder than I hoped. I'm sure it will all be worth it once I hit the track.

By the way- Thanks to Andrew for his input. It would have broke my heart to get all the way to Wakefield to not pass scrutineering due to that door trim.
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
JZZ30 - Transforming into a UZZ30! '84 MA61 Supra, '05 2ZZ Corolla Sportivo.

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Monday, November 10, 2008 - 10:19 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Why are the Kei Office coilovers too much trouble? Do they currently work? If so save your money until they don't! The aim is to get it on the track sooner, right?

No worries on the door trim issue mate - that's what the threads are for...

Did you end up towing with the X-trail on the weekend? How did it go?
Andrew Meiers
DieHard
Victoria
TT

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Monday, November 10, 2008 - 10:21 pm, by:  Andrew Meiers (Acmtt) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I agree Andrew. Just "race what you brung " as they say. the car will be a continual project so the sooner you start to enjoy it the better.
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

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Tuesday, November 11, 2008 - 06:42 am, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Even though you want some wider rubber on the back end, those R888's will hang on pretty damn well :-)
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Tuesday, November 11, 2008 - 06:38 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Andrew McKellar wrote on Monday, November 10, 2008 - 10:19 pm:

Why are the Kei Office coilovers too much trouble? Do they currently work? If so save your money until they don't! The aim is to get it on the track sooner, right?




When I was fitting the sway bars I had a good look at them. The rubber bush has all but disappeared and there is some evidence of metal to metal "wear". I am seeing if a machinist mate of a mate can bore them out and re-sleeve them to take a locally available bush, ie Nolathane/pedders etc. After the kids are in bed I hope to get the car in the shed and rip em off. If I do I'll take some pics.

The X-Trail towed all right, but struggled on the larger hills. I can live with it. The Turbo diesel version has the same power, but nearly a hundred more 'torques'. That would be the one to go for it you are looking for a dedicated tow car. It is sad, but the main reason we did not get one is the TD doesn't have climate control.

OK stop laughing.

Although I whinged a bit yesterday (see how I rounded on Dave C in another thread!) I actually like working on the car, and finding solutions to it's problems. It will definitely be an ongoing project. I want to hit the ground running though.

The other issue is the rules allow a lot of leniency for registered cars. Mine is not eligible for rego. I'm trying to pre-empt any scrutineering issues ahead of time.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Tuesday, November 11, 2008 - 08:40 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Just got the coilovers out. New record for me...30 minutes from entering the shed to struts on the floor.

Official verdict: Rewted. The bushes and surrounding area are much worse than I first thought, but probably fixable. The really bad news is the left strut has no pressure in the damper at all. Once the top hat was undone it simply fell down onto the spring.



Upload
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
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JZZ30 - Transforming into a UZZ30! '84 MA61 Supra, '05 2ZZ Corolla Sportivo.

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Tuesday, November 11, 2008 - 09:03 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

OK, you can be forgiven for wanting to replace them now...

And I didn't start laughing until you told me to stop. Not that I can talk. I'll let you know in a few days what our family/tow car may end up being. Pretty sure you'll be the one laughing then.
Phil Gibson
Goo Roo
WA
'91 UZZ31 track bunky, '94 blk/blk UZZ31

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Wednesday, November 12, 2008 - 10:08 am, by:  Phil Gibson (Sciflyer) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

HSD HR group buy?
Dave Cazes
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tt

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Wednesday, November 12, 2008 - 11:57 am, by:  Dave Cazes (Cazman) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

If you want a matching set of HSDs then buy some,
If you are after some bilstein coilvers I would reccommend them for sure.

Of if your KEI office are an insert style then I would suggest thinking about putting a bilstein insert into them. 100% safe and a common practice

Youd be looking at about $600 pr or so, but I would need measurments of your KEI office shocks, and whether they are actaully insert style etc.

Or for custom stand alone bilsteins:
Your looking at about.... well depending on who you buy the gear from.... Its cheaper to buy the coils and sleeves from the US actually, even with our crap exchange rate.
say $400-500 for a pair of shocks
$100-250 for a coilover sleeve kit (pair)
$200-300 for springs in any rate you need (pair)

optional revalve of shocks is about $250 the pair

these wil out perform any coilvoer you put in with the exception of some arragostas or Ohlins which topple into the 4k mark

As I mentioned you CWG height will pay the biggest role in your damper and spring choice selection. Unless you can fabricate and weld well you have to run your car fairly high in reality.
If any one wants to argue I will get out the pics.
Dave Cazes
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Thursday, November 13, 2008 - 10:53 am, by:  Dave Cazes (Cazman) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Also what was the decision to go with R888's?

They are notorious for being a very bad tyre in heavy cars, and are more suited to light cars that dont do many stints.
Dave Cazes
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Thursday, November 13, 2008 - 10:58 am, by:  Dave Cazes (Cazman) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

One last thing, not bagging, but dont use the whiteline/selby swaybar links in your picture.

They are urethane, where as stock are a greases balljoint, the ball joint provides 0 Flex, those uretahne ones have so much deflection in them, the double S eye links are rubbish really

New aftermarket links are $32 ea in the ball joint style
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Thursday, November 13, 2008 - 04:24 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

brand front pricerearpriceTotallinkremarksUOTG
Kumho ecsta V70A235/40/17$450255/40/17$480$1,860http://www.fsport.com.au/fsport_siteroot/kumhotyres.htmlcan be rotated50-AA-A
Kumho ecsta V70A235/40/17$450275/40/17$520$1,940Fsport 02 9679 8044
Yokohama Advan A048245/40/17$544255/40/17$544$2,176Gordon Levin60-A-A
Toyo R888235/45/17$389275/40/17$456$1,690http://www.toyo.com.au/Proxes%20R888.htmcan be rotated100-AA-A
Toyo R888235/45/17$335235/45/17$335$1,340ebay - set of 4 only+$65 freight = $1405
Falken 615245/45/17$400275/40/17$550$1,900not really a R comp tyre200-A-A
bridestone RE55235/45/17$452255/40/17$475$1,854http://www.amecautocare.com.au/bridgestonetyres.htmcan't rotate40-
Dunlop DZ02J235/45/17$470255/40/17$540$2,020http://www.queenslandraceway.com.au/dunlop/dunlop1.html#Pricecan't rotate


After much research, including tyre tests here, USA, and UK, forums, and friends trusted opinions I decided they would do the job. As you can see from the table they have a treadware of 100, as opposed to the other realistic options, being Kumho- 50, RE55- 40. If anyhting they will better suit heavier cars. Two different motorsport tyre dealers warned me against tyres such as Silverstone etc with lower Treadware on heavy track cars. I wanted to buy the Kumhos, but the right sizes aren't available right now. I guess I'll find out soon enough.
Ben Lipman
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NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Thursday, November 13, 2008 - 04:37 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Dave Cazes wrote on Thursday, November 13, 2008 - 10:58 am:

They are urethane, where as stock are a greases balljoint, the ball joint provides 0 Flex, those uretahne ones have so much deflection in them, the double S eye links are rubbish really

New aftermarket links are $32 ea in the ball joint style




No choice now, as one of the factory ones are bent. No one has raised it as an issue previously, but I don't know if any one is using them on their track cars either. I will look at it later though. Just not a high priority right now.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
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Soarer TT manual

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Thursday, November 13, 2008 - 08:04 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Dave Cazes wrote on Wednesday, November 12, 2008 - 11:57 am:

you CWG height will pay the biggest role in your damper and spring choice selection




I haven't put much thought into it at this stage. The car is ridiculously low as of right now. It is up on stands again so I cant measure it. It is my intention to raise the ride height to similar to what the road car is.

The stock ride height on my TT road car was Front 390mm from hub centre to arch-CWG?- and Rear 365mm (or F:707mm from ground to arch and R:680 mm). I have now got my Teins set to front 352(669)mm and rears 340(655)mm which is a drop of 38mm front and 25mm rears. Interestingly Tein recommend they be set front 360mm and rear 340mm. I am about due to remeasure as the springs have been in there for quite a while now- I may move back to the recommended setting.


"If any one wants to argue I will get out the pics" I'm all about pics. Are you referring to damage from too low a ride height or something else?
Phil Gibson
Goo Roo
WA
'91 UZZ31 track bunky, '94 blk/blk UZZ31

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Thursday, November 13, 2008 - 09:48 pm, by:  Phil Gibson (Sciflyer) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

As a very rough guide you dont want the lower arms to be much less than parallel to the ground

So factory they will be like this


Upload


But if its been lowered too much it will look like this

Upload



...which is bad for both handling and the ball joints (hint- look at the angle the lower joint is angled at on the arm)

To run at lower ride heights properly you need to look at the aftermarket parts like Ikeya Formula arms, etc

Mine runs too low at the front too and i'll be attempting to correct this before it gets new tyres and an alignment next week. Cant really afford aftermarket suspension parts but it would be nice...
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Friday, November 14, 2008 - 06:34 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Phil Gibson wrote on Thursday, November 13, 2008 - 09:48 pm:

Cant really afford aftermarket suspension parts but it would be nice...




I cant really afford the parts I've got! The missus' job got "rationalised" yesterday...Merry Christmas.

For me it is all about doing the best I can, with what I can afford. It might look like I've been on a spending spree, but I worked hard and saved that cash. Now it is just about all gone


The local tyre/suspension place is keen to help me set the car up initially. Once I've got it all together I'll take it down for a wheel alignment etc. I'm hoping to learn from others at the track meets, and the local car club I joined, plus what I can glean from here.
Phil Gibson
Goo Roo
WA
'91 UZZ31 track bunky, '94 blk/blk UZZ31

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Friday, November 14, 2008 - 09:58 pm, by:  Phil Gibson (Sciflyer) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I reckon youre doing a pretty good job actually but im gussing now that the other half isnt working thats going to put a dampener on things...

Mines coming together slowly but i still have a lot to do and need to resist the temptation to hammer the credit card right before christmas!
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
JZZ30 - Transforming into a UZZ30! '84 MA61 Supra, '05 2ZZ Corolla Sportivo.

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Saturday, November 15, 2008 - 02:42 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Ben Lipman wrote on Friday, November 14, 2008 - 06:34 pm:

For me it is all about doing the best I can, with what I can afford.


Amen to that brother!!!! We're all in the same boat methinks. You've done an excellent job so far mate - running out of money just means things take a little longer is all. There's always things to tinker with without spending too...
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Saturday, November 15, 2008 - 07:36 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Andrew McKellar wrote on Saturday, November 15, 2008 - 02:42 pm:

There's always things to tinker with without spending too...




Aint that the truth. Had a good day today. Finally got the factory tacho working. It would seem some drongo cut the wire leading from the igniter to the instrument cluster. Soldered in a new wire (it, um, might be the exact same wire that was cut out)and now it is all good. After studying those damn wiring schematics, it finally jumped out at me today. It is even labelled “tacho.” Sometimes you just have to be in the right mood.

Picked up the rims and tyres. They look the business. Seem much wider than the 235 that came off the rim, even though they have the same size/profile etc.

I then decided it was time to share the love and do some work on the road Soarer. It has had an AC leak for years. The same Natrad guy who fixed the track car radiator gave the AC system a thorough going over. He found a leak in the “suction modulator" or the flux capacitor or something and was able to fix it. The compressor has locked up, and cant be freed. Therefore I spent today replacing the AC compressor. Buggered if I know how you guys got that 4 inch stud out. I couldn’t. You need a special reverse torx socket or something. I just dropped the bottom engine mount bolts and lifted the motor up again. Done now. Just need to take it back to Natrad for a check and gas.
Ben Socratous
Goo Roo
SA
I am the fibreglass/kevlar/carbonfibre king!

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Sunday, November 16, 2008 - 07:42 am, by:  Ben Socratous (Socrates) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Ben Lipman wrote on Saturday, November 15, 2008 - 07:36 pm:

Sometimes you just have to be in the right mood.


True that! I was at the shop for nearly 7 hours yesterday, and all I succeeded in doing was washing the engine bay (cbf painting it anymore!) and shortening the wastegate pipe off the manifold (new gate is so big, if I left the pipe as it was, the gate would be somewhere in the cabin! lol).

On the flip side of being in a bad mood or completely bored with the project at a given time, last week I started to teach myself to tig weld! Very happy, soooooooooooo much easier than mig, no splatter and does alloy too
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Sunday, November 16, 2008 - 06:54 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Took today off from working on the car. No choice really as Otomoto haven't sent the coilovers to me yet

We went down to the Ringwod park hillclimb track to watch the MGCC Newcastle run their event. Free to get in, and good for the young-uns. Best part is it re-energised me as I really want to get out there now. When I got home I found some sound deadener on the passenger door and removed it. The car is now another 500g lighter! Interestingly freezing this stuff made it bloody hard to remove, so on a hunch I gave it the good news with the hot air gun. When it was nice and hot it came off in huge strips, by hand. In most places it took the glue with it also. You live and learn.

The shed then got a damn good cleanup. Anyone want to buy an original Rx-7 cargo cover or switches???

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