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Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1056
Reg: 04-2006

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Sunday, November 23, 2008 - 06:42 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Last week was frantic with work, so I had little time to do anything.

The new front HSD's are in. They arrived on Monday. The front of the car sits at a much more reasonable height now.

I had a setback with the track rims. One of them is bent. The tyre shop boys knew it, and marked the rim (on the rear) but the message was not passed to "front of house". I didn't realise until I fitted them and for some reason spun the wheel on the hub. Once I pulled the rim off I found the markings on the rear. Frustrating. Back to the tyre shop and had two tyres removed and fitted to the Supra 17x8 fronts. The tyre shop is seeing about getting the rim repaired. They are understandably annoyed that I wasn't made aware of the buckle and are looking after me.

Otherwise I played around with cut and polish, paint cleaner etc and cleaned up the bonnet. I also stripped the nasty black paint off the undamaged rim. There is some nice rims hidden under the dodgy spray can job. I am thinking about stripping all the rims once the buckled one is back from the shop.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1057
Reg: 04-2006

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Sunday, November 23, 2008 - 06:49 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I am starting to look for gauges. I am only looking at the smaller 2 inch size, and want electrical oil temp, oil pressure, and water temp. I also want a boost gauge, and possibly an air/fuel ratio gauge.

I was planning on using Speco guages as they are pretty cheap, pretty accurate according to a couple of tests I found on the net, easy to read, and easily available from the local Repco.

After the service I've had from there of late I'm now looking elsewhere. The Autobarn has all the gauges I want at similar prices, but in a brand called "drift" or similar. They look nice, but I am wary of anything labelled "drift" as it is usually crap.

I have yet to go into the local independant parts shop to see what they have.

Any thoughts?
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
JZZ30 - Transforming into a UZZ30! '84 MA61 Supra, '05 2ZZ Corolla Sportivo.

Posts: 145
Reg: 06-2008

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Wednesday, November 26, 2008 - 08:22 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Try e-bay Ben. I got all my gauges from a place on the Central Coast through e-bay, and they are good. I'll try to find their name to PM you, but do a search on e-bay and you should come up with the goods.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1059
Reg: 04-2006

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Thursday, November 27, 2008 - 05:57 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Even the brand name of the gauge, to narrow it down. I always end up with 300 odd items when searching for gauges on ebay.
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
JZZ30 - Transforming into a UZZ30! '84 MA61 Supra, '05 2ZZ Corolla Sportivo.

Posts: 151
Reg: 06-2008

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Thursday, December 04, 2008 - 09:23 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I think I went with the Type R gauges, but I'll confirm over the weekend for you. I can't find the receipt, so it must still be in the bag with the gauges under the house...
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1070
Reg: 04-2006

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Thursday, December 04, 2008 - 10:31 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I looked at the type-R. I thought they looked dodgy in the pics. They are bloody cheap though. I'd be interested in your thoughts.

I searched the net for the "drift" gauges available from Autobarn. The general consensus seems to be they are great at night, but you just can't read them during the day. Considering I'll never drive the car at night, that may be an issue...

I still like the Speco pro/sports series with conventional white face, and red needles that are easy to read. Maybe over christmas I can find a Repco staffed by an adult male who will help me purchase items from his store.
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

Posts: 4280
Reg: 03-2006

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Thursday, December 04, 2008 - 10:39 pm, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ben, Get in COntact with Charlie Ters....

He works for Repco Here in Sydney.. he Should be able to hook you up with some better pricing surely ! And he seems to be an Adult Male, Hahahaha...
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1074
Reg: 04-2006

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Friday, December 05, 2008 - 06:07 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Will do in the new year. Thanks for the tip. It isn't the price that is the issue with the local, it is getting a sales assistant to look in the computer or out the back too help you make a decision/buy a product. There is at least two decent fellas down there, but I seem too get the same dullard each time I walk in.

I can't afford the cash or the time at the moment as I have my hands full with the rear bearings in the red one. I haven't watched TV since Monday, although that's not really such an issue as we are moving into crappy summer TV.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1088
Reg: 04-2006

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Thursday, December 11, 2008 - 09:11 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Well, time has run out. The car is on the trailer ready to be towed down to Wakefield Park tomorrow afternoon. I was unable to get any decent brake pads in time, so I have a spare pair of Bendix to throw in if I go through the current set. I am running the factory gauges/warning light set up as is. Nice gauges will have to wait.

I have the bent rim back. Nice and straight now, for the princely sum of $80. Unfortunately the other spare is also a little bent... At least the four on the car are straight.

I spent tonight double checking things, removing a few little spikes and other sharp edges, and packing heaps of tools, fluids, pads, rags etc.


The nerves are starting to set in. Have I done everything? Is there something that's going to break first lap out? Will my little X-Trail tow the car all the way there and back?
Phil Gibson
Goo Roo
WA
'91 UZZ31 track bunky, '94 blk/blk UZZ31

Posts: 1323
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, December 11, 2008 - 11:54 pm, by:  Phil Gibson (Sciflyer) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

heh GL man
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1091
Reg: 04-2006

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Sunday, December 14, 2008 - 06:12 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Holy crap!

That was great fun. Those Circuit Club boys know how to run a hassle free track day.

I couldn't fault the car. There were a few little niggling issues that were fixed as I went along. For example: the drivers mirror rotated up at around 80+km on the first lap, and dropped down to normal when I hit the brakes. Turned out the glass was not clipped in properly, and it was just sitting on the hooks.

There was a noise from the rear of the car about halfway through the day. This appears to have just been the three top suspension nuts coming loose, and was easily rectified.

The Toyos are great. It appears that I'm still not working them hard enough. I had 34psi (hot) in them and the consensus along the lane was to go lower. I dropped them top 33(front) and 32(rear) and they started to heat up. If anyone has experience on these tyres, I'm happy to hear from you.

As for lap times, predictably they tumbled throughout the day. I was put in group D initially as I was a newbie. This made it damn hard to do a lap. I found I was constantly getting on it, only to catch a queue of cars. On a cleaner lap I did a 1:18. After a while I dropped it down to a best of 1:15.2. That would have put me third in group B at lunch. Now I have a meet under my belt, I should be put in a higher class. On the up side, overtaking all those cars was FUN!

Scott Casey came to the track and took some good pics. I have included some below.

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Peter Nitschke
Junk Filterer
South Australia
UZZ30 UZZ31

Posts: 10315
Reg: 11-2004

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Sunday, December 14, 2008 - 04:18 pm, by:  Peter Nitschke (Pen) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Interesting. Times track days I have done, every one goes out for one timed session first, in order to get the grouping organised, then it gets serious.
Andrew Meiers
DieHard
Victoria
TT

Posts: 951
Reg: 07-2005

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Sunday, December 14, 2008 - 07:12 pm, by:  Andrew Meiers (Acmtt) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

They often have an area for your expected lap times or lap times you have done on other cicuits to give an indication on your car/abilities on the entry form. Now that you have that you will be set.

Nice job by the way! You seem to have it sorted pretty well if you walk away after the first day out and there are no . "Damn i wish i......"

More track time and a clear track in front of you will see the times drop. Also trying to hang with the faster cars, learning there lines etc. Of course you will be making changes, a race car is never finished hehehe.

Excellent effort!
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1092
Reg: 04-2006

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Sunday, December 14, 2008 - 07:23 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I was put in the lowest class, and told then see how I went. Each group got 15 min every hour, with every second session was timed(the untimed sessions were 'passenger sessions'). It wasn't until the last timed run of the day that I realised that I could move classes myself.

The circuit club guys are pretty loose (relaxed). Other events I've attended have been strictly controlled and no messing with the system was allowed. I guess if I had of said something earlier, I would have been able to run harder, longer.

All in all, I achieved what I wanted. I validated the work on the car, figured out where to go next, and have a BIG list of things to contemplate. The family liked the day as well, which is quite important, as it is costly.

Some things I need to do: Rear pads(desperately); front pads; rear rotors (soon); Gauges; semis for the 9.5 in rears(giggle); a better shift knob (the factory on is not conducive to shifts 2-3-2); change out all fluids ( I did around 50 laps!); and so on.

Of course, none of that can happen until I get the red one out of the shed...hopefully get the bearing, hub and oil seals all together in the first half of this week.
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
JZZ30 - Transforming into a UZZ30! '84 MA61 Supra, '05 2ZZ Corolla Sportivo.

Posts: 156
Reg: 06-2008

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Sunday, December 14, 2008 - 10:52 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

All looking great Ben! Welcome to your new addiction...

I am so jealous!
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1095
Reg: 04-2006

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Monday, December 15, 2008 - 12:50 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I am now moving on the gauges. There is a place in Tuggerah where I can get all the Speco gauges I need, at a decent price.

They also have some track pads called Intima SR, for excellent money. They claim to be effective up to 700degreesC. I have fired off an email to him and I'll take it from there.

I am still looking for a shift knob. I like the Momo race air leather in the road car, but don't want to pay the $130 asking price for a new one. I haven't found a decent copy of one either. I may have to trawl the wreckers looking for something suitable. Subaru seem to have some nice ones.
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
JZZ30 - Transforming into a UZZ30! '84 MA61 Supra, '05 2ZZ Corolla Sportivo.

Posts: 159
Reg: 06-2008

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Monday, December 15, 2008 - 06:04 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Sorry Ben, I said I'd get back to you about the gauges and then didn't.

Mine are Speco Meter ones, and they came from Auto Parts Direct Australia, and they are at Tuggerah. This link should get you there:

http://stores.ebay.com.au/auto-parts-direct-aust

Sorry for the delay...
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1097
Reg: 04-2006

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Monday, December 15, 2008 - 08:57 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Sounds like we found the same place. They are doing them at a good price.
Aaron Casey
DieHard
nsw
'94 jzz30 gttl, 2 mini's one supercharged :-)

Posts: 781
Reg: 08-2005

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Monday, December 15, 2008 - 09:53 pm, by:  Aaron Casey (Blownminiturbo) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

hey ben was a good day out.. i took god knows how many random photo's lol if you send me your email i will see if i got any good ones for you and send them when i get them off the camera
Aaron Casey
DieHard
nsw
'94 jzz30 gttl, 2 mini's one supercharged :-)

Posts: 782
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Monday, December 15, 2008 - 10:00 pm, by:  Aaron Casey (Blownminiturbo) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

here are some

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Aaron Casey
DieHard
nsw
'94 jzz30 gttl, 2 mini's one supercharged :-)

Posts: 783
Reg: 08-2005

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Monday, December 15, 2008 - 10:01 pm, by:  Aaron Casey (Blownminiturbo) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

some more

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Phil Gibson
Goo Roo
WA
'91 UZZ31 track bunky, '94 blk/blk UZZ31

Posts: 1328
Reg: 07-2005

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Tuesday, December 16, 2008 - 01:54 am, by:  Phil Gibson (Sciflyer) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

top work mate, cant wait till i can get out there and do the same

Thought about removing the fog lights? Theyre the less common '94+ type so you might be able to sell them on here, at the same time you free up some space in the front bar for a cooler or brake duct or something... just a thought
Jeff Smith
Goo Roo
NSW
GT30/37r Single T Manual

Posts: 2345
Reg: 07-2005

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Tuesday, December 16, 2008 - 08:39 am, by:  Jeff Smith (Mozzie) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

If you decide to sell the fog lights mate! Pm me asap! I want them!
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1099
Reg: 04-2006

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Tuesday, December 16, 2008 - 10:10 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Nice pics! I thought it would have been rolling over a bit harder on that hairpin. That is the only corner I never got comfortable with. Go wide, turn in early, whatever, I just never felt like I nailed it.

I'll have a look at the foggies.
Jeff Smith
Goo Roo
NSW
GT30/37r Single T Manual

Posts: 2346
Reg: 07-2005

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Tuesday, December 16, 2008 - 12:42 pm, by:  Jeff Smith (Mozzie) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Cheers mate! Pm replied!
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1102
Reg: 04-2006

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Tuesday, December 16, 2008 - 10:03 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

PM replied replied

Every little bit helps.

I am doing a parts run tomorrow. I hope to have gauges, pads, and a body kit sorted. At least I'll have something to work on over the chrissy holidays.

The kit is going to be a background project as it needs a bit of work, but came at the right price. Not sure if it'll go on the track car or road car at this stage.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1111
Reg: 04-2006

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Sunday, December 28, 2008 - 06:40 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Been away doing the family thing over christmas, so very little has been done.

Today I got my gauges in the car and created a loom for them. Once I find an oil filter sandwich plate I'll be able to fully wire them up. The radiator is draining as we, um, type, so I can fit the water temp sender unit tomorrow.

I made a 'pod' out of 1.6mm sheet aluminium by cutting and bending it into shape. Many hours fiddling with hand tools and blocks of wood. I first made a flat panel, but discovered that half of all the gauges were obscured from the drivers seat. This one works a lot better.



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Scott Casey
TryHard
nsw
soarer v8

Posts: 182
Reg: 02-2008

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Monday, December 29, 2008 - 09:06 am, by:  Scott Casey (V8soarer_1991) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

nice

get someone to weld the 2 edges together for a little stronger to keep the shape


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Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1113
Reg: 04-2006

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Monday, December 29, 2008 - 12:32 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

There is no gap now. I kept beating it until it submitted to my will.

I intend to weld it myself, once I learn to weld aluminium some time this coming year. And buy a suitable welder.

All the wiring is in, less the oil senders. I have not decided if or how I'll do the illumination. I was going to go via the dash dimmer, but I am now thinking a simple on/off toggle will do the job.
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly); '84 MA61 Supra.

Posts: 167
Reg: 06-2008

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Tuesday, December 30, 2008 - 08:32 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Nice work on that pod Ben. You are a master of fabrication!

Here's a tip: Once all the gauges are connected and working, have a run in the car and make note of where all the "normal" readings are. Then rotate each of the gauges in the pod until the red needle would be vertical (i.e. in the 12:00 position) when it is showing that normal reading. Once you are on the race track, a quick glance (which is the most you'll have time for) will show you four "12 o'clocks" when everything is good. If a needle is pointing in a different direction it will be easy to spot and will notify you of a problem long before you'd pick it up trying to read the numbers.
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

Posts: 4390
Reg: 03-2006

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Tuesday, December 30, 2008 - 09:05 pm, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Andrew that is some Top Info champ !!!!

ANd Ben , very nice mate, good to see you have had some fun in this thing already...

As for the foggies, I would bugger em off and run some ducting to the brakes for some increased front brake cooling :-)
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1119
Reg: 04-2006

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Wednesday, December 31, 2008 - 10:37 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The foggies are Goooone! Jeff has them now, but not before I gave em a nice clean up on the buffer.

I have had a quick look at brake ducting and reckon I should be able to dodge something up out of flexible drainage pipe or similar. Just gotta figure out how to match the shape of the hole, and where to run it without fouling anything.

The weird thing is, the factory brakes didn't fade noticeably over 7-10 laps of Wakefield. They faded over the period of the day as the rear pads evaporated, but no where as quick as they used to in my Rx-7. It used to have serious fade after 3-4 laps of Hidden Valley, and they were slotted rotors and Hi-po pads (whatever all the IPRA guys used up there).

As for the gauges, I was going to mark the face with some contact, or a marker, but your idea has some merit there, Andrew.

I'll have to wait until Oran park at the end of Jan before I find out what 'normal' is on the gauges though- unless someone knows already.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1120
Reg: 04-2006

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Wednesday, December 31, 2008 - 10:52 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

New pads are in also. I fitted some Intima SR I bought from a guy(
http://carbling.com.au/component/option,com_virtuemart/page,shop.browse/category_id,167/Itemid,26/) down in Tuggerah. At $131 pair retail (not what I paid) they are a fraction of the $500 odd dollars I was quoted for Hawk pads. These are the street/track variety. They claim to be rated to somewhere around 700 degrees C, yet retain acceptable bite from cold. He can get the race only pad as well for about $30 buck extra, but was keen to hear how these ones performed.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1121
Reg: 04-2006

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Wednesday, December 31, 2008 - 01:18 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Sandwich plate arrived just before lunch. It is now installed. Seems to be no major leaks after 30 min of running.

One thing I'm a bit freaked by is the oil pressure. Hot idle is around 35-40 psi, but at 2000+ rpm it goes off the scale at over 100psi.

Does anyone know if this is a normal reading? I have the SC400 english repair manual (only covers V8) and the oil pressure for that is supposed to be 30 psi at 3000 rpm...


[edit] Search reveals I am not the only one caught out by this. It appears my pressure gauge is now only going to tell me if I lose a significant amout of pressure (at least until it drops below 100psi).

Oh well...
Jeff Smith
Goo Roo
NSW
GT30/37r Single T Manual

Posts: 2350
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Thursday, January 01, 2009 - 07:54 pm, by:  Jeff Smith (Mozzie) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Cheers for those foggies mate! Been hunting them for a wile... hahaha
Can't wait to catch up at oran park and mix it with you on track...
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 07:52 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I just realised it has been half a month since I posted up on here.

I have spent some time with generally tidying up the interior. I found that at wakefield I kept knocking the exposed wiring loom next to the accelerator out of position. No great hassle, but a little annoying and kinda looked untidy. So I fabricated a little ally cover to go over the lot.

I also tore my horn wiring out at some stage. I never had a horn button anyway. For some silly reason, probably because I've been on holidays for a month and am bored stupid, I made up a little ally plate and wired in a rocker switch from my old Rx-7 to use as a horn button. It sits in the old air vent location between the dash and the A pillar.

I also laid down a coat of black gloss acrylic on the floor and trans tunnel. This turned out to be quite arduous as at some stage the seat mount bolt hole had been cross threaded and today in near 40 degree heat it decided to break the bolt. And the number 3 easy out. And 3 separate drill bits. And a 10x1.25 tap and die bit. Seriously, I considered super gluing the bolt head back on and walking away. I eventually got a working bolt hole again, but it took a lot of blood, sweat and tears(well sweat running into my eyes anyhow).

The other frustrating thing has been getting the car back up to a decent ride height. In consultation with Dave C and others online, I have decided to set the ride height at 360mm front and 340mm rear. It was right down at 320-330 ish and different on all corners.

I put 85kg in the drivers seat to represent me, and set to work. What I thought would be easy was actually very time consuming. Measure, jack car up, adjust, lower, measure, jack car up, adjust, lower, measure etc etc. Then I discovered all the preloads were set at different heights, so I started again. This was a lot longer process than I thought.

The car is on the trailer tonight ready to go down for an alignment tomorrow.
Aaron Casey
DieHard
nsw
'94 jzz30 gttl, 2 mini's one supercharged :-)

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Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 09:42 pm, by:  Aaron Casey (Blownminiturbo) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

hey ben good to see you got some gauges in there :-) looks good.
its always little things that count but i know how you feel with the seat bolt prob sometimes its best to walk away have a drink and watch some tv then get back to it lol i usually get a little fan and extension cord in there to get some kind of breeze in there lol

apparently the circuit club is back at wakefield on aussie day you going to be there?
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Thursday, January 15, 2009 - 03:32 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Nah. I committed to the Oran park track day on here before I joined the circuit club crew. I can only afford a track day every other month, not every week end.

Funny story: I am an Ebay Noobie. Until December I had never even tried to use it. Since then I have bought a couple of 'buy it now' items. I tried bidding the other day and kept getting instantly outbid, which shat me to tears. So, like I always do, I researched the problem and discovered the maximum bid thingy (I said I was a Noobie). Armed with this newfound skill, I placed a bid on a 'delta fin' intercooler starting at $99 and set my max bid to $105 the other day to see how it works, expecting to be outbid again and then forgot about it.

Well, I won the damn thing for $99. I have Lew's intercooler piping kit that has sat under the work bench for two years. I only ever purchased it for the airbox and radiator pipe to bling up the road cars engine bay. I had planned to sell it, but sometimes my laziness really pays dividends.

Now I need to buy some silicone and clamps to put it all together. I wont be fitting it until after the Oran Park track day so I can get some base line oil and water temps to find out once and for all what effect a large front mount has.

As for the delta fin, it would seem it was Apexi's idea to increase airflow through the core, and restore some airflow to the radiator. It could all be bullsh!t, or it might work.

If the temp ever gets back below 40 I'll go outside take some piccies.
Aaron Casey
DieHard
nsw
'94 jzz30 gttl, 2 mini's one supercharged :-)

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Thursday, January 15, 2009 - 07:22 pm, by:  Aaron Casey (Blownminiturbo) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

haha yeah gotta love ebay.. ive also noticed alot of people get people they know to bid to see how high you will go then when they win they message you back saying that the other person has dropped out now you can get it.. which you usually go buy another one elsewhere in the meantime haha

let me know what size clamps you need i have a box full of turbo bolt clamps... not all the same type but hold alot better then worm and thread type. i might be able to sell you some for a good price instead of 6 bucks each anyway. i think i have a bit of silicone too ill have to have a look... ill get back to you tonight or tomorrow..
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Thursday, January 15, 2009 - 07:49 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Silicone hose:
2x 63mm(2.5 inch) straight joiners
2x 63 to 76mm (2.5 to 3 inch) straight reducers
1x 63 to 70mm (2.5 to 2.75 inch) straight reducer.

Hose clamps:
7x to fit 63mm(2.5 inch) hose
2x to fit 76mm(3 inch) hose
1x to fit 70mm(2.75 inch) hose

I have a guy down at Tuggerah who can organise the clamps for around $3ish each, and most of the silicone, less the 2.5 to 2.75 inch reducer for $9-14 each piece.

Ebay want $23 for that 2.5-2.75 inch reducer, dammit! The hose and clamps cost more than the intercooler.
Aaron Casey
DieHard
nsw
'94 jzz30 gttl, 2 mini's one supercharged :-)

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Friday, January 16, 2009 - 11:50 am, by:  Aaron Casey (Blownminiturbo) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

ill see what i have this arvo for ya ben
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Friday, January 16, 2009 - 07:26 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Cheers Aaron. I wont be fitting it this month anyway. Run out of budget again.


This afternoon after we got home from a family outing I was staring forlornly at the car, and the shed wondering what I could do. I decided to make an airbox for the HKS pod filter thingo that came with the car.

Out came the left over ally sheet from the door card and away I went. I think it turned out alright. I made a lid because there was a piece of scrap that was just the right size. I have not decided if I'll fit it at this stage.



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Scott Casey
TryHard
nsw
soarer v8

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Saturday, January 17, 2009 - 06:56 pm, by:  Scott Casey (V8soarer_1991) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Looks good
Put some pop rivets in the top.

It would be sweet if you make a cold air plate from the front bumper up to the back of the headlight using the same stuff.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Sunday, January 18, 2009 - 12:17 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I ended up using small screws to fix the lid. This way I can take it off easier when I want to.

The cold air thing will sort itself out once the FMIC goes in. There is a straight shot from this area into the filter. I was looking at the road car today- you can see the stock filter (BFI) from the front bar opening when you lie down.

At the moment there is plenty of room for cold air to get in due to the fog light removal.
Aaron Casey
DieHard
nsw
'94 jzz30 gttl, 2 mini's one supercharged :-)

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Monday, January 19, 2009 - 06:54 pm, by:  Aaron Casey (Blownminiturbo) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

nice polish up and will look good. yeah i only have a couple dont know where they all went... my mate mighta accidentaly took them when i fitted his front mount in his r33 and thought they were his.. lol

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