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Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1204
Reg: 04-2006

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Wednesday, January 28, 2009 - 07:18 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Final checks and packing tools, fluids, spares etc for the Oran park track day on Saturday.

I have been looking into a piece of software from "racechrono". It allows very accurate GPS based lap timing via your phone.

There are some issues to consider.
1. The phone needs to be compatible: mine isn't.
2. The phone needs to be fixed to the inside (or outside) of the car where it can get a reliable GPS signal: scrutineers will love this...they already hate cameras mounted in such a way as to become missiles in a shunt.
3. The wife's phone may be compatible: "Forget it!" (direct quote)
4. As I am inherently lazy I have left it to the last minute to try and organise something: I'll probably not get anything organised.
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly); '84 MA61 Supra.

Posts: 196
Reg: 06-2008

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Wednesday, January 28, 2009 - 07:24 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Simple solution mate - use a stopwatch... Unless you are already worried about 1000th's of a second difference in your lap times.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Wednesday, January 28, 2009 - 08:04 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Stop watch is the obvious solution.

It just relies on either me hitting it myself as I cross the line, or someone else sitting there lap after lap for me.

I guess I am just spoilt by previous track days where they put a transmitter in your car and at the end of a session all your times are there for you to compare.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1232
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Sunday, February 01, 2009 - 08:17 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have now completed my second track day in the Soarer. This time there were other Soarers fanging it as well as some big dollar, big power Commodores. I have made a few observations which are detailed below.

*After two track days, each between 50-70 laps, the Toyo R888 tyre wear seems to be OK. I have 4.5mm tread depth on the front and 4.2mm on the rear.

*Whilst the car is vastly better than Wakefield, I still need to get more camber on board. The tyre wear is past the little telltales on the outside, and the inside ones are still untouched. The tyres have balled up nicely though so they are now working for me.

*The intima SR pads have very little pad fade even on such a hot (37 degrees) day. In fact, I was breaking deeper and deeper into turn one as the day went on. The pad wear is pretty good too. They still look new. Good value at $130 a pair.

*The stock cooling system is a very decent thing. Mine has been reco'd and has none of the AC condensors etc in front of it. Due to a little operator headspace issue, I put the sender unit for my water temp gauge on the radiator outlet. 37 degrees ambient temp, oil temp hitting high 140s and the coolant entering the engine sat at about 40 degrees all day, peaking at nearly 50 once. Kel from NATRAD said it was a good piece of gear.

*There is a lot to be said for weight reduction. There were plenty of cars with 50 to 100% more power than I, yet I either caught them on the straight, or at least level pegged them all the way down it. No one really pulled away from me that I recall. On the twisty stuff it was very simple to catch and sit behind them.

SO

Today I checked the car over. No problems. Oil seems a little low, about 7mm down from full. That oil will be dumped as I don't know how well it would have liked several hits at over 140 degrees. It can wait until I find an oil cooler kit though.

I moved the sender unit for the water temp to the top hose of the radiator- thanks for picking that up Manny.

I also removed the cruise control (2kg) and the rear tow point as I have a CAMS one fitted up and don't need two. The exhaust hanger has been rattling on it which is annoying. Another 1 Kg saving.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1236
Reg: 04-2006

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Sunday, February 01, 2009 - 08:57 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


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Phil Gibson
Goo Roo
WA
'91 UZZ31 track bunky, '94 blk/blk UZZ31

Posts: 1369
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Monday, February 02, 2009 - 11:16 am, by:  Phil Gibson (Sciflyer) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The lack of camber adjustment is a bugger, especially when you cant rotate tyres :-/

Ben what damper setting are you running on the HRs?

Ive just set mine to halfway (7 clicks i think)
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Monday, February 02, 2009 - 08:45 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I played with a few settings over the day. I will reference all settings subtracted from full hard. ie full hard is 0, back three clicks is -3. No particular reason, just how I wrote them down.

I started off at -10 on both ends (I had it soft when doing the alignment). This was "sloppy" and I never got below 56 seconds for Oran Park sth.

I went -3 on the front and -6 on the rear and this felt pretty nice. Got into the 53sec bracket after a few laps.

Just for the experience I tried full hard (0) on the front and -3 on the back. I found this to understeer a lot, particularly when you quickly changed direction left right. Back up into nervous 54 secs area, with some close calls with understeer then oversteer as I lifted off.

At the end of the day I was on -3 all round. There was a hint of oversteer, but the times were no worse than -3F/-6R in the mid 53sec zone, and it was a little more predictable. I was actually hitting 180 by the turn 1 brake marker with this setting, up about 6-8 kmh, but that may have had more to do with receiving advice from the side lines as well.

The big point is with the camber, ride height and alignment as it is I had a lot more confidence to change settings, and actually notice the subtle differences. AND, I was working the car and tyres a lot harder than Wakefield as a result.

Yes I acknowledge the HSD are an entry level damper, and the 'clicks' are what they are, but the car felt different as I played with them. At my level, they'll do.


You can rotate the tyres with the R888s, but you have to take them off the rims and remount them on the opposite sides. It was part of the attraction over other brands which are made specifically for each side.
Joel King
TryHard
New South Wales
Soarer GT-T

Posts: 112
Reg: 11-2007

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Monday, February 02, 2009 - 09:23 pm, by:  Joel King (Twinturbos_rock_my_chasis) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ben had to say, well done! Was awesome to see your car in person and my its incredible! I nearly fell over when Antonio told me it was a stock engine and turbos!
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Tuesday, February 03, 2009 - 08:00 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Joel King wrote on Monday, February 02, 2009 - 09:23 pm:

my its incredible! I




Sorry, but you're wrong. It's a stripped out junker that a non qualified enthusiast is building on a $200 a week budget (that includes consumables, travel, entry fees, accommodation and build costs). On my budget you need to think carefully about what you do, dollar for gain. I am currently saving up to buy silicone joiners and clamps for the FMIC. The wait makes it more fun...

But, I do appreciate your compliment.
Joel King
TryHard
New South Wales
Soarer GT-T

Posts: 114
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Tuesday, February 03, 2009 - 08:24 pm, by:  Joel King (Twinturbos_rock_my_chasis) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Ben Lipman wrote on Tuesday, February 03, 2009 - 08:00 pm:

Sorry, but you're wrong. It's a stripped out junker that a non qualified enthusiast is building on a $200 a week budget (that includes consumables, travel, entry fees, accommodation and build costs). On my budget you need to think carefully about what you do, dollar for gain. I am currently saving up to buy silicone joiners and clamps for the FMIC. The wait makes it more fun...

But, I do appreciate your compliment.




I guess that's why its incredible (to me anyway) anyone can throw 5-10 thousand dollars at a car but your car is on a budget and it was giving quite a few people on the track a bit of a surprise.

Not saying that the other soarers didn't either ;)
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

Posts: 4555
Reg: 03-2006

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Tuesday, February 03, 2009 - 08:28 pm, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Great stuff Ben. What size silicone pieces are you after? I might still have some in the garage, will have a look if they are still there.

WHat type of clamps are you chasing? Let me know what sizes and i can get a price for ya from my mates @ Robbos.
Aaron Casey
DieHard
nsw
'94 jzz30 gttl, 2 mini's one supercharged :-)

Posts: 850
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Tuesday, February 03, 2009 - 09:07 pm, by:  Aaron Casey (Blownminiturbo) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

awesome going ben good to see ya starting to get it all sorted out and giving it a good go
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1247
Reg: 04-2006

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Wednesday, February 04, 2009 - 07:16 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Silicone hose:
2x 63mm(2.5 inch) straight joiners
2x 63 to 76mm (2.5 to 3 inch) straight reducers
1x 63 to 70mm (2.5 to 2.75 inch) straight reducer.

Hose clamps:
7x to fit 63mm(2.5 inch) hose
2x to fit 76mm(3 inch) hose
1x to fit 70mm(2.75 inch) hose

Carbling down at Tuggerah can organise the clamps for around $3ish each, and most of the silicone, less the 2.5 to 2.75 inch reducer for $9-14 each piece.

Ebay want $23 for that 2.5-2.75 inch reducer, dammit!

Yes, it's a repost, but now the page has ticked over you can't just scroll up.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1248
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Wednesday, February 04, 2009 - 07:18 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Sorry, didn't really answer the whole question.

I want decent clamps, not the old cheap worm drives. I haven't seen the Carbling ones, but I told him what I was chasing...
Aaron Casey
DieHard
nsw
'94 jzz30 gttl, 2 mini's one supercharged :-)

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Wednesday, February 04, 2009 - 10:16 pm, by:  Aaron Casey (Blownminiturbo) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

yeah you want the bolt type. they hold alot more pressure.. and alot less chance of threading it while you do it up which is always great on the worm type lol
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly); '84 MA61 Supra.

Posts: 197
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Friday, February 06, 2009 - 05:57 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Nice work on the track day Ben. Glad it all held together for you. Great news about the weight reduction too!
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Saturday, February 07, 2009 - 08:14 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Forty-two degrees here today. (42- WTF?) Predictions of up to 47 tomorrow...that is insane. Spent a bloody hot afternoon under the front of the car pulling out under trays and looking at where/how I'm going to mount the three coolers. The factory SMIC came out, so I am now committed.

I pulled out the factory power steering 'cooler' as I am going to run a better one in the stock SMIC position. I went to the wreckers yesterday and spent an hour poking around. I found a transmission cooler from a Magna which might do the job. I was hoping to find one of the VR/VS Commodore tow pack style ones with push on barb fittings but it wasn’t to be. The wrecker guy assures me that all the local speedway cars are using these. At $25 I’ll give it a go. The only problem is it uses the 'banjo bolt' style fittings and comes with some funky rigid pipe I can’t use. I have shortened this and will some how flare the ends to prevent slippage.


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The intercooler has been suspended in position with some wire until I figure out how to mount it. The other problem is I can’t get the pipe kit to come anywhere close to marrying up to the cooler. Looks like it is custom piping time. This is where I wish I’d bought a Greddy Kit...


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The engine oil cooler will go in the passenger side where the power steering cooler used to be. I am going to buy one with a filter relocation kit so I have to find somewhere for that also.
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

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Saturday, February 07, 2009 - 08:58 pm, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

WHat kind of issues with the intercooler piping are you having ?
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Saturday, February 07, 2009 - 09:53 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

on the turbo side the second pipe(inner guard to the cooler) looks like it wasn't bent right. It still points about 45 degrees away from the cooler, and sits right up behind the bar.

I am going to mix and match some bits tomorrow and see how I go. The factory pipe off the intake manifold is almost the right size and shape.

I was a bit frustrated by the end of the day with the heat and the realisation that I had 7.8mm power steering hose instead of 10mm.
Ben Socratous
Goo Roo
SA
I am the fibreglass/kevlar/carbonfibre king!

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Sunday, February 08, 2009 - 08:01 am, by:  Ben Socratous (Socrates) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Awww, poor baby. Try wearing long sleeves and a welding mask in a workshop that is effectively a big tin shed in this heat! ahahahaha

As for your cooler, dont mess about with the lines that came with it. If it has banjo fittings as you say, go get some new banjo fittings with barded ends. Any decent hydraulics place, and even some auto parts stores will hook you up.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Sunday, February 08, 2009 - 06:55 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Ben Socratous wrote on Sunday, February 08, 2009 - 08:01 am:

Try wearing long sleeves and a welding mask in a workshop that is effectively a big tin shed in this heat!




Been there, done that, got the scar. I feel for you champ.

You are right with the power steering cooler. I fitted it up today and had a go at using the shortened rigid lines. One sealed good, but the other had a steady drip at idle. I'll take one of the banjo bolt fittings to work tomorrow and see if I can find somewhere in town to fix me up if I get the chance.

Auto parts stores, Oh My God! I went to Repco today to get some power steering hose. The dumb B itch behind the counter told me they don't sell hose for Toyotas, only Fords and Commodores. I tried to explain to her that the hose doesn't care if it gets fitted to a Toyota because it is a standard size. She went out the back to ask her 'manager', and came back and told me they only sell Holden and Ford parts. I know for a fact Repcos usually keep rolls of fuel line, transmission hose etc out the back of the shop. I have now given up on Repco. It is dead to me.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Sunday, February 08, 2009 - 06:58 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

As for thew intercooler piping. The core is mounted up on some ally brackets. I might go back and make them stronger later, but they seem to be holding.

The piping is a shambles. I have ordered some extra silicone bends and will shorten the pipe on the turbo side, and have to dodgy up something to get the intake side to match up. Never had this problem with the Greddy kit...Damn I wish I'd bought a second one.
James Harris
Goo Roo
QLD
XTR T-66 Turbo

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Sunday, February 08, 2009 - 10:14 pm, by:  James Harris (Haro) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

yeh good option with the MAGNA oil cooler... i used one of those bad boys also, works a charm.

I think i paid about $10 for it.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Monday, February 09, 2009 - 09:29 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

How did you fit it up? I went to the local hose joint and got some fittings. They don't fit as the cooler is metric 16mm x 1.5. I swear I watched the lady at the counter screw them into the cooler...

About 30 minutes on the web and I failed to find either 16mm banjo fittings, or a suitable fitting to screw in.

I am back to fiddling with the original mitsubishi hard lines. I put a suitable ridge/rim in one with some innovative use of a dyna bolt, but said bolt shat itself when I tried to use it a second time.

I'm interested to hear how you did it. I'll have to return these fittings tomorrow, because they aren't cheap.
Shaun Chiew
TryHard
VIC
Soarer TT

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Tuesday, February 10, 2009 - 06:34 pm, by:  Shaun Chiew (Senk9) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Great work Ben, good to see the Soarer getting out there and doing it's thing. I'm with you on the DIY thing, keep it up :-)
James Harris
Goo Roo
QLD
SOARERLESS :-(

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Tuesday, February 10, 2009 - 08:12 pm, by:  James Harris (Haro) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi ben,

Mate i just used the original fittings that it came with. I simply cut them off at about 3" long on both sides.

Then when it came time to attach it, Lew and I cleaned up the pipes and added a small bead to the end of them and used some proper high temp hose.

Lew also smashed up a quick bracket to hold it in place. Really was quite easy and no doubt has saved my Auto from exploding.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Tuesday, February 10, 2009 - 09:16 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

James, that is essentially where I'm at now. After hitting the shops again this arvo I have found that I don't have a lot of options. One workshop was pretty keen to help make something custom, and even went do far as to offer to put a sticker on the side of the car. If tonights effort doesn't work I'll take the lot to them.

Tonight I used an 8mm dynabolt to put beads/bulges in the rigid pipe. Copying the factory setup I put at the end, and another 1" down from the end. I then used hose clamps between these two beads, backed up by the factory spring clips. It seems to be holding, but I have run out of fluid to completely fill the system.

Owning three manuals, I don't tend to keep a lot of Dextron II AT fluid around.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Friday, February 13, 2009 - 08:07 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

After many trips to various shops after work, and several late nights, both the power steering cooler and the intercooler are in and connected up.

I ended up shortening the problematic pipe and buying a somewhat expensive silicone "45 degree reducer" to get the pipe to turn towards the cooler. I am still not happy with the fit overall. Some joins are stressed and the pipe work touches other components here and there.

Here are some pics.

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Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 07:08 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I got a CD of pictures sent to me from Matt Mead, the professional photographer on the OP track day. He is quite good, from my non technical perspective. A couple are included below.

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Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 07:19 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The CD has over 600 photos on it. There are a lot of Commodore pics I'll never look at again, but seeing as he was included in the track day price I think this is a great idea for any track days SC run in the future.

There are 18 or 19 pics of my car alone, but some of the other Soarers featured heavily. I think some of this is to do with the plain jane look of my car. Neils car with the Rush sponsorship on the side, and Manny's car with its big,jap JGTC style wing had a lot more pics.

Maybe I need to spice up the outside a little?

This week end I am hoping to remove the washer bottle from the front left guard in anticipation of receiving my oil cooler and filter relocation kit. I was looking at the Greddy style kits on ebay and some importers sites, but Scott Gates is selling me his second hand set from a previous group buy on here at too good a price to pass up. Hopefully this arrives sometime next week so I can put the front back together and get the car out of the shed.
James Harris
Goo Roo
QLD
SOARERLESS :-(

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Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 10:59 am, by:  James Harris (Haro) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Yeh spice it up Ben !

You can also get some stickers made up by Simon perhaps ?

http://www.aitcs.com.au/stickers

Or paint your bonnet and boot WHITE so its like opposite of JDM haha
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

Posts: 4658
Reg: 03-2006

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Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 12:10 pm, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

IRISH JDM anyone ???? Hahahaha
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1305
Reg: 04-2006

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Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 01:27 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Irish JDM...

Bahhh hahahahahahahah! That's actually pretty funny.

The car had stickers on it, but seeing as they weren't paying me I decided they had to go. I somehow missed the one under the drivers headlight.

Vinyl is an idea, but I'd have no idea what to put on the side. I got a heap of Tein stuff when I bought coilovers, but they are on the street car, and it would be a little, uh, strange considering it has HSD/Selby suspension.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 08:06 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Wiper fluid bottle came out very easy. I was prepared for a fight, but 4 nuts/bolts later it came right out. Seeing as that was a little too easy I fitted the Greddy clone FCD I bought from another member. I had a wiring guide and instructions downloaded from SC but soon realised the wiring colours were exactly wrong. Lucky I followed the instruction as I picked it up in the 'test' steps.

I guess I'll find out next track day if it works or not. I was getting 12PSI at Oran Park in 37 degree heat with the stock SMIC and Ben's Garage exhaust. Now I have a FMIC and the weather is getting more sane that figure should rise.

Hopefully engine oil cooler arrives this week...
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

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Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 08:16 pm, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Awsome Ben . Have you thougth about heat wrapping the INtercooler pipework from the Fmic to the Throttle body ? SPecially the one in the engine bay ? Wonder if this would help keep temps down some ?
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 10:32 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I haven't but now I am...

There isn't a lot of room as the piping kit isn't the greatest, but it may actually provide a little protection where there is contact between parts.

I am hoping all the coolers will keep temps in check. At some stage I am going to box in the radiator to prevent any spillage around the sides.

What I really need is one of those point and shoot thermometers. Then I can get in there and see what is doing what.

I am thinking of going to an IPRA event and seeing if I can pick up anything from those guys. Up in Darwin they were experts in doing a lot with a little.
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly); '84 MA61 Supra.

Posts: 221
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Monday, February 23, 2009 - 05:35 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Ben Lipman wrote on Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 07:19 am:

Maybe I need to spice up the outside a little?




Nah Ben, you don't need the bling. You're already putting in fast lap times, so you have nothing to compensate for!

If you want more photos next time, give us a bit of notice and a few people with decent cameras might be able to turn up and take a few shots.
Dave Cazes
TryHard
sa
tt

Posts: 344
Reg: 08-2007

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Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 10:48 am, by:  Dave Cazes (Cazman) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Good idea on the power steering cooler, I boiled my fluid on my first track day, now my pump is even more whiney.

I used a Derale one, push fittings, $69 if you play your cards right. New hoses inc, and derale is one of the best brands out there.

If you needed new cooler piping and silicone I have my entire setup for sale, it was in the for sale section, but no one was keen.
I would suggest ditching the stock style setup too, go a TWIN under the headlight setup. I am practically throwing my old setup in the bin, $50....
I cant use any of my silcon hose anymore, as my new setup wont allow it.
I have:
1x 90 deg 3 inch
1x 90 deg 2.5 to 3
1x 45 deg 2.75 to 3 (throttle body)

If you buy clamps, only buy norma, dont bother with anything else, seriously, and ebay is the cheapest, lucky for me he is in SA too

Car is looking good, coming along, I would suggest front strut brace (big beefy ones not ebay) and gaurd braces, they are pretty weak around here.

And the only thing that perplexes me is the small offset, I can understand on some people street cars that they want to be conservitaive, but ona track car go nuts, use all the extra track you can get.
Your car will be more stable, turn in will double, less body roll.

Also what brakes are you running? Im just trying to gauge the good and bad stuff with brakes, my lucas pads are great on the street and track so far, but there may be something better out there.


Here is my new setup, i wanted more response, less damage when I crash it, and more air into the radiator
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1316
Reg: 04-2006

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Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 07:18 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Dave Cazes wrote on Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 10:48 am:

I used a Derale one, push fittings


I was chasing a VR/VS Commodore auto tow pack one, same style as derale, but couldn't find one at the wreckers. The minute I fitted this one, there were three on ebay

The cooler is done. It works, as best I can tell. I keep comparing it to my Greddy kit and next to that it sucks. I am interested in the delta fin core, and seeing if it works or not. I ended up using the stock clamps. I'll replace them if they give me any trouble. In my experience it is only ever one hose that pops off, so I'll wait till I find that one...

I have 'ummed and arred' about strut braces. I considered making one out of steel, but the weight is an issue. What do you think of the whiteline ones? I have never heard of a guard brace. Who, what, where, price, pics? Is that a brace that ties the fire wall to the strut tower?

As for pads, I used an unknown brand (light blue backing plate?) at Wakefield that were OK. The Intima SR handled 37deg at Oran Park very well, but there is only one big stop at OP sth circuit, not four like wakefield. I will eventually run Supra brakes, hence the Supra rims and offset. I am keeping my eye out for a mythical good cheap set of 17's (not staggered)to suit, but I honestly dont have the cash to waste. I'm sorta selling old stuff to buy new stuff. It comes down to priotgities, and keeping enough money aside to actually get to track meets to run the car.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1317
Reg: 04-2006

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Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 07:29 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I had a heap of stuff on pads somewhere. Prices and data that sort of thing. Hawk come highly reccommended out of the US, but at $500 for the front set they'd want to drive their own bloody cool down lap. There was confusion over whether or not they had a pad for the Jap, ABS, TT model also that I never resolved. The importer is in SA somewhere. The local stuff doesn't have a listing for the Soarer (in hi performance pads) so unless some other model shares the same pad...

Then there is the Jap stuff like EBC etc but with the exchange rate they aren't cheap either. Sometimes the Hype is worth more than the part. In Darwin among the IPRA/club cars a lot of guys ran those Lucas pads as a compromise between cost and performance. I used them on the Rx-7. I boiled the brake fluid before I got pad fade.
Dave Cazes
TryHard
sa
tt

Posts: 353
Reg: 08-2007

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Wednesday, February 25, 2009 - 04:52 pm, by:  Dave Cazes (Cazman) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I made my own, it proble weighs like 3kg, could weigh it but I cant be bothered atm.

Here is how I built it
http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=305112&view=findpost&p=4679813

No dont buy a whiteline one, unless you are only doing it for looks, and mild performance

Any strut brace that uses bolts on the ends are bad, ie everybrace out there.

Carbing is the best and only brace I would buy, and at $400 in Aus, its not cheap. But its alloy, mine is steel.

To test any brace, while its on the car, reach over the motor from the front of the car, grab the middle of it it, and try to break it off the car forwards and backwards.
If it flexs in the middle even 1mm, then its useless.

Test it yourself, jack your car up on one side with and wITHOUT a strut brace and youll see the chassis flex. Some tests with guard braces have shown 60mm deflection which is huge
They go in between the door hinges and to the top of the tyre.
This picture is the poorest style you could buy, make it yourself, and triangulate.

Oh and strut brace was $40 all up inc the laser end plates. If I was to do it again, I would also make it a firewall brace, especailly if the car is a pure track car

Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1320
Reg: 04-2006

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Wednesday, February 25, 2009 - 07:07 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hmmm. Now I am thinking about making my own strut/firewall brace, incorporating a master cylinder brace out of steel. If for no other reason, than because I can.

I wonder if the Aristo strut brace would fit? You won't bend that sucker, it's Huuuuge(and alloy)
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1325
Reg: 04-2006

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Friday, February 27, 2009 - 03:21 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Well the oil cooler and filter relocation kit came on Thursday. You would expect this to be good news, however it has come with M20mm fittings instead of 3/4 UNF 16 used by Toyota. This kit was allegedly pulled, complete, off a TT engine. It was purchased from a forum member, who purchased it off another forum member. I don't know who screwed who first, but the end result is I paid $200 for something that will not work, so now I'm screwed.

The local hydraulic shop is going to machine me up a custom adaptor to get the kit to fit on the side of the engine. As for the filter end...I guess I'm looking for a filter that fits M20 thread, and can handle the 100+ psi oil pressure.

So much for buying a "kit".
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1330
Reg: 04-2006

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Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 07:05 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I made up some brackets out of alloy sheet and mounted the oil cooler into the car. I mounted it where the washer bottle used to reside, inside the front left guard.


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It sits in there nicely. I will have to look at creating airflow through the plastic inner guard. I considered just cutting a big hole out, but am now thinking about doing something similar to what Toyota did on the intercooler side.

I am also debating whether or not to fabricate some ducting for the coolers. I may just run it as is and then see how it goes.

Speaking of which, there is a distinct lack of track days on in March. RENEW (rotary enthusiasts of NSW) have a proper timed day at Wakefield on 22 Mar which I might attend. Other wise I'll keep my ear to the ground.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1331
Reg: 04-2006

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Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 07:18 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The other thing I'm playing with while I wait for the oil filter relocation issue to be resolved, is making a strut brace- Thanks Dave!

I am looking at tying it into the fire wall as well as the suspension towers.

The pics below are me marking it out with dowel, to see if everything will clear. The firewall is not accessible dead center due to odds and sodds, and it would obscure the chassis number any how.

I am thinking some 5mm plate 50mm high by 150-200mm wide should be strong enough bracing for the firewall. 5mm plate for the strut top plates and brake master cylinder brace, and either 20mm box tube or round tube for the actual bracing. Time to raid the scraps bin again.


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