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Jamie Richards
Newbie
St.john's
v8

Posts: 5
Reg: 06-2009

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Monday, July 06, 2009 - 01:59 am, by:  Jamie Richards (Nwb40gt) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

the car is looking real good what exhaust system is that
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 1550
Reg: 04-2006

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Monday, July 06, 2009 - 08:27 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Jamie.

It is a Fujitsubo cat back in stainless. I am not sure if there are different models of Fujitsubo, it came with the car. The rest of the exhaust I fabricated on the garage floor.

It is very quiet (too much so for a track car some say).
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 1551
Reg: 04-2006

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Monday, July 06, 2009 - 08:35 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ordered another set of the Intima SR pads today. Hopefully they get here by Friday so I can fit them. They did not have the type D 850degree pads in stock, which is a shame as I would have liked to try them. The SR6300's have been up to the task, and will aid in the back to back tests to see if the wing has helped.

I also ordered a set of the Daizen camber kit bushes from TM engineering in the states. Hopefully they are a little more reliable than the last mob...
Damian Ware
Goo Roo
Victoria
UZZ32

Posts: 1011
Reg: 10-2005

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Monday, July 06, 2009 - 08:59 pm, by:  Damian Ware (Frozenpod) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ben do you have the specs on that pad temp range and friction?
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 1552
Reg: 04-2006

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Friday, July 10, 2009 - 06:16 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Off the top of my head: 0(?) - 750 degrees, and average friction was either 4.5 or 5. They are advertised on ebay somewhere and all the specs are listed there.

The 250 - 900 degree type d pads have a friction coefficient of 5.5 - 6, but they don't have them in stock. might order some for 'ron
Damian Ware
Goo Roo
Victoria
UZZ32

Posts: 1032
Reg: 10-2005

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Sunday, July 12, 2009 - 06:18 pm, by:  Damian Ware (Frozenpod) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Well hopefully they hold up just checked out the specs and they are rated to 700 deg C.

Yes it would be good to try the type D pads if you do let us know how they turn out.
Paul Kalie
Tinkerer
NSW
TT

Posts: 17
Reg: 02-2008

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Sunday, July 12, 2009 - 07:41 pm, by:  Paul Kalie (Ajzs) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I'm sure Ben will update this later but he had a good day today
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 1554
Reg: 04-2006

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Sunday, July 12, 2009 - 09:02 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hell yeah!

I was stoked to run a 1min 10.6 sec lap, and a couple of 1:10.7s. I figured that was the best I'd get, and considering my previous best of 1:12.9 I was pretty chuffed.

Later on, trying to run some different lines I managed a 1:09.99. It didn't feel fast, and I wasn't really pushing it as I was feeling my way through some very different lines. I didn't even bother to check the times. I had pretty much just finished saying that it wasn't working for me, and I'd go back to 'my' race line...

I went out for one last lash after the presentations in a bloody strong wind, but the times weren't up before I left for the 5 hr drive home. I'll be watching Natsoft to see how I went.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 1555
Reg: 04-2006

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Sunday, July 12, 2009 - 09:04 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I can't say enough good things about the intima SR pads, especially at $130 a set. I am going to contact Bryce at APDA and see if he can get some of the type D pads in on order for me. I can only assume from the specs they will be even better.
Paul Kalie
Tinkerer
NSW
TT

Posts: 18
Reg: 02-2008

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Friday, July 17, 2009 - 07:17 pm, by:  Paul Kalie (Ajzs) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

here's some pictures from the weekend


Upload

Upload

Upload

Upload
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 1560
Reg: 04-2006

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Friday, July 17, 2009 - 09:11 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

You didn't need to put that second one in...

where did you get them from?
Scott Wilkes
DieHard
Tasmania
92 TT Factory Manual

Posts: 775
Reg: 10-2008

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Friday, July 17, 2009 - 09:27 pm, by:  Scott Wilkes (Scottywilkes) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

cross country soaring hehe

Taking a shorcut to cut laptimes eh?
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 1561
Reg: 04-2006

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Friday, July 17, 2009 - 09:29 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

That was me deciding it is much better to bin the lap and run off, than keep in it and roll.

The only way to find the braking limit is to go past it...
Scott Wilkes
DieHard
Tasmania
92 TT Factory Manual

Posts: 776
Reg: 10-2008

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Friday, July 17, 2009 - 09:41 pm, by:  Scott Wilkes (Scottywilkes) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

haha, speaking of which, i think i might purchase a set of them brake pads if they are as good as you say, ive got what ever the last owner had on it who was an elderly man, so they look like the cheapest ones he could of got haha.

Brakes are shockin.
Paul Kalie
Tinkerer
NSW
TT

Posts: 19
Reg: 02-2008

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Saturday, July 18, 2009 - 07:47 am, by:  Paul Kalie (Ajzs) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Ben Lipman wrote on Friday, July 17, 2009 - 09:11 pm:


James posted up a link to his photobucket on the FD forum, so I grabbed all your pics for you. Even the out field one :-)
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 1562
Reg: 04-2006

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Saturday, July 18, 2009 - 04:30 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Today I attempted to construct a front splitter and more effective undertray out of 9mm plywood.

I started with a 2400x1200mm sheet of structural ply, and cut it down to 1700mmx1200. After taking a number of measurements, I cut out 600x400mm sections for the wheels, leaving a small triangle in the corners.


Upload


I then fitted this to the car, using existing bolt mounting points for the factory trays, and a bolt through the front bar.


Upload


Using a block I traced 50m around the front lip, and cut it out with a small jigsaw. I rounded the edges with a plane, and brushed on a coat of black acrylic. I also put a pair of extra bolts through the lip and splitter for more strength.



Upload

Upload
Rob Olbromski
Tinkerer
NSW
Cressida

Posts: 8
Reg: 08-2005

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Saturday, July 18, 2009 - 05:17 pm, by:  Rob Olbromski (Rob_o) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Nice work, Ben.

I've seen you at the last two RENEW track days. I've got the silver Cressida.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 1563
Reg: 04-2006

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Saturday, July 18, 2009 - 08:38 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hey Rob,

I had a good day out at the last RENEW track day, but have developed some understeer. I am hoping the splitter and undertray helps tune this out and I go back to a more neutral car.

I'll pull it off tomorrow and give it a coat of paint. I reckon i'll paint the rubber lip as well looking at those photos.
Damien Smith
DieHard
NSW
Manual UZZ31

Posts: 774
Reg: 07-2005

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Monday, July 20, 2009 - 04:29 pm, by:  Damien Smith (Damien) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Splitter looks good - keen to hear how it goes. Only problem with plywood for me is getting the 2400x1200 sheet home.
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

Posts: 5255
Reg: 03-2006

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Monday, July 20, 2009 - 05:17 pm, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ben, would you have to use some kind of flexible sealant around the whole bottom front edge where splitter meets lower lip ?
Dave Cazes
DieHard
SA
tt

Posts: 552
Reg: 08-2007

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Tuesday, July 21, 2009 - 09:58 am, by:  Dave Cazes (Cazman) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Can you weight the splitter for me?
Ive been researching them alot, and I know that they are the single cheapest track mod that reaps the best rewards.

Also watch out for the amount of force that it will take, you may need to make up some new brackets as these take a huge loading, and if you clip ripple strips youll need some re-enforcement too
Damien Smith
DieHard
NSW
Manual UZZ31

Posts: 775
Reg: 07-2005

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Tuesday, July 21, 2009 - 01:26 pm, by:  Damien Smith (Damien) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ben, you can hang it from the alloy bumper support using threaded rods or turnbuckles to direct all the force straight to the chassis. Assuming you still have the bumper support :-)
Joe Russell
TryHard
Manawatu
4.0 V8 GT-L (UZZ31)

Posts: 461
Reg: 10-2008

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Tuesday, July 21, 2009 - 06:34 pm, by:  Joe Russell (Joe_r) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

AWESOME.
Andrew Meiers
Goo Roo
Victoria
TT

Posts: 1081
Reg: 07-2005

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Tuesday, July 21, 2009 - 06:41 pm, by:  Andrew Meiers (Acmtt) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I would like to know whether it would be worth having a small angle on that lip. Imagine a doubled ply edge under the factory lip to give it a sloping front. Common sense says it would catch more air... but it would be nice to be able to adjust that via the suggested threaded rods to assess the right amount of downwards angle.

Easy to adjust if you use long bolts with a locking nut....
Adam Brown
TryHard
QLD
Volvo S60T, Soarer TT Manual - Sold

Posts: 298
Reg: 07-2005

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Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 10:47 am, by:  Adam Brown (82ajb) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

He he, now all you need is a plywood wing spoiler and cardboard side skirts!
Sounds like a Jeff Foxworthy skit!
"If the front splitter on your race car is made of plywood, you might be a redneck!"
Good idea though, hope it works for you.
Paul Kalie
Tinkerer
NSW
TT

Posts: 20
Reg: 02-2008

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Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 04:57 pm, by:  Paul Kalie (Ajzs) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

heaps of people use ply for splitters
http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/attachments/f93/2269d1175742649-front-splitter-diy-splitter-new-005. jpg
http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/8175/apict0015rm5.jpg
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/642/apict0014uu9.jpg
there every where

more links
http://www.specialprojectsms.com/index.php?categoryID=30
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

Posts: 5266
Reg: 03-2006

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Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 05:32 pm, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Yep and easy to modify . SOme guys will then go to the troubles of getting them made up in Carbon Fibre or something lightweight once they think they have found the shape and design they want .

How flamable is plywood though ? Would you also be better off sealing it or covering it in paint or a shiny finish to allow airflow to pass faster over than the porous wood surfaces ?
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 1569
Reg: 04-2006

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Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 07:58 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Dave Cazes wrote on Tuesday, July 21, 2009 - 09:58 am:

Can you weight the splitter for me?


5.9kg. It is killing me to put weight back in the car, but I'm told it will be worth it.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 1570
Reg: 04-2006

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Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 08:15 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Daniel Clarke wrote on Monday, July 20, 2009 - 05:17 pm:

Ben, would you have to use some kind of flexible sealant around the whole bottom front edge where splitter meets lower lip ?




Don't know. Don't think so. If a little air goes between the two, it doesn't matter as all my coolers share that space. Should be pretty high pressure area in front of the coolers any way.

Dave Cazes wrote on Tuesday, July 21, 2009 - 09:58 am:

Also watch out for the amount of force that it will take, you may need to make up some new brackets as these take a huge loading, and if you clip ripple strips youll need some re-enforcement too


Yeah, this is a concern. It is pretty strong now, but I'll keep looking at it, playing around until I'm happy.

Damien Smith wrote on Tuesday, July 21, 2009 - 01:26 pm:

Assuming you still have the bumper support


Nope! I'll work something out. This is one days effort, that started out as a "I wonder if..."

Andrew Meiers wrote on Tuesday, July 21, 2009 - 06:41 pm:

I would like to know whether it would be worth having a small angle on that lip. Imagine a doubled ply edge under the factory lip to give it a sloping front. Common sense says it would catch more air...



I'm thinking on it. There is a fairly sizeable 'flat' surface between the splitter, and the radiator opening. I was thinking about cutting the bar, the rubber lip, or both. I have a vertex kit in the back yard- maybe I should just repair this and get it on the car. Might be easier. I am kinda liking the 'stock' aspect of the car though.

Adam Brown wrote on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 10:47 am:

If the front splitter on your race car is made of plywood, you might be a redneck!"



Plywood was once the material of choice for race teams until everything was made of carbon fibre. A lot of them still use a small strip of ply along the front lip as a skid plate. Have a look under some full house, road legal production special track cars. Carbon fibre is expensive to drag along the ground.

Daniel Clarke wrote on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 05:32 pm:

How flamable is plywood though ? Would you also be better off sealing it or covering it in paint or a shiny finish to allow airflow to pass faster over than the porous wood surfaces ?




How flammable is plastic? The factory undertray is made out of it...

The front splitter is painted in auto acrylic paint, mainly as I had some lying around. Nice and shiny.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 1571
Reg: 04-2006

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Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 08:25 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Nice to see it has generated a bit of interest. I have to admit, I laughed when Jeremy Clarkson made one on Top Gear. I laughed even harder when it caught fire. When I realised it made 2 seconds a lap difference, I stopped laughing. That was a bigger difference than the massive brake kit he fitted.

I am a little worried that it will tear apart at 200kph and get stuck under a wheel or something horrible like that.

The middle and back is secured directly to chassis and crossmembers. The only concern is the very front. I have one long bolt from the ally bumper skeleton to the splitter, and 4 bolts through the rubber lip. Hopefully I'll find time this weekend to play around some more.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 1572
Reg: 04-2006

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Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 08:44 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

http://www.specialprojectsms.com/index.php?categoryID=30

I just read this link. That's a good find Paul. I might have to look at the factory tow hooks and see what I can do there.

Now I wanna make a rear diffuser as well.
Damian Ware
Goo Roo
Victoria
UZZ32

Posts: 1045
Reg: 10-2005

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Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 09:07 pm, by:  Damian Ware (Frozenpod) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ben it looks great, I would add some extra support, just to be sure and see how it goes.

Yes I think one on the rear end will reduce lift and drag considerably.
Damien Smith
DieHard
NSW
Manual UZZ31

Posts: 777
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, July 23, 2009 - 08:06 am, by:  Damien Smith (Damien) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I plan to hang mine from the bumper support but it'll be getting the swiss cheese treatment to reduce the weight.
Damien Smith
DieHard
NSW
Manual UZZ31

Posts: 778
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, July 23, 2009 - 02:21 pm, by:  Damien Smith (Damien) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Andrew Meiers wrote on Tuesday, July 21, 2009 - 06:41 pm:

I would like to know whether it would be worth having a small angle on that lip. Imagine a doubled ply edge under the factory lip to give it a sloping front. Common sense says it would catch more air... but it would be nice to be able to adjust that via the suggested threaded rods to assess the right amount of downwards angle.




If there's too much downward angle you'll get flow separation on the underside which causes drag but you'd probably need to angle it a fair bit to get to that point. If you look at splitters on purpose built car cars (Le Mans cars etc) the top surface of the splitter is flat so air pressure is acting perpendicular to the road.

Check this for an extreme splitter. Difficult site to get around but there's some good info on there.

http://www.mulsannescorner.com/2kq.htm
Andrew Meiers
Goo Roo
Victoria
TT

Posts: 1082
Reg: 07-2005

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Friday, July 24, 2009 - 06:14 pm, by:  Andrew Meiers (Acmtt) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

That gives me a better understanding of it. I was thinking of the airflow over the top.... Wrong.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 1573
Reg: 04-2006

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Friday, July 24, 2009 - 07:34 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hmm. I was thinking it was the splitter and flat bottom of the undertray smoothed out the airflow under the car, creating a lower pressure, and air flow through to the radiators, and the high pressure in front of them created the down force (high pressure tries to move to low pressure to equalise- or something like that).

I never contemplated the idea that the 'flat' part of the bumper would create a big high pressure, and splitter gives the high pressure something to act on. Makes sense now I have read it.

Might be worth taking a second piece of ply to extend the front splitter and see what effect that has next time I hit the track. I want to move to Goulburn

I went and had another look at the car tonight. I can exert a fair bit of pressure on the splitter with a foot, but don't think it would support my weight.

Anyone have any idea how much downforce something like a 50mm splitter can generate?
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 1575
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Saturday, July 25, 2009 - 07:40 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I did a little more on the splitter today. I made up some stays/brackets out of ally that connect the front of the splitter to the chassis rails. I utilised a spare bolt hole on the end of each rail and ran some ally strap through the splitter with a 90deg bend at the end, screwed into the splitter from underneath. The splitter is now able to support at least half my body weight and the suspension moves rather than the bottom of the bumper lip.

I'll get some pics tomorrow.

I had planned to get some other stuff done in the shed, but discovered the battery was flat as a tack. I left the keys in the ignition for a week, and I guess they must have been in the acc position or something. Wouldn't start with a battery pack either. I have it out on the charger at the moment, but after most of the day it is only reading 50%. Might be time to look at the Odessy/Pulse/Optima battery replacement. I reckon I only need the PC680MJ or equivalent, as I am not running AC, Heaters, demisters, sound systems etc. My current battery weighs 17kg, and the 680 weighs 7kg. It'd be nice to lose another 10kg.
Damien Smith
DieHard
NSW
Manual UZZ31

Posts: 779
Reg: 07-2005

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Saturday, July 25, 2009 - 10:13 pm, by:  Damien Smith (Damien) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Nice one - you should notice the extra downforce even with 50mm but you could make wider sections that sit on top of existing 50mm as a base and screw them down. Wouldn't have minded having a splitter on my car at Wakefield today :-)
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 1576
Reg: 04-2006

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Sunday, July 26, 2009 - 03:44 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

pics of the extra reinforcing.


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I have been examining the two exhausts on my cars. The track car has a Fujisitubo stainless steel full cat back system using two resonators and two mufflers. The road car has a pair of Trust mufflers on a custom system from the dumps back. The only join the two have in common is the one right up next to the gearbox, and the track car does not have a Cat, so I cant do a straight swap. I might be able to cut both exhausts just before the 'Y' junction in front of the diff and swap the rear sections over.

The track car has a nice note at full throttle, but is extremely quiet at all other times. I have to check the tacho to see if it is running. The road car has a nice note at idle, is pretty loud at full throttle, and can be a little dronish at some cruising speeds. I'm getting a bit older now, and when you are cruising past an RBT etc the loud exhaust is no longer as much fun as it used to be.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 1593
Reg: 04-2006

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Sunday, August 02, 2009 - 09:09 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Productive weekend.

I have swapped the exhausts over. The road car now has the fujitsubo exhaust and for some reason has kept its nice burble, all be it a great deal quieter- I can actually hear the turbos spooling now.

The track car has 3 inch pipework all the way to the diff, where it splits into twin 2.5 inch pipes exiting through a pair of Trust mufflers. Yet to hear it run as I am in the process of relocating the yet to arrive battery.

Took a little reconstructive surgery with a cut off saw and welder, but the whole deal cost me $28 for a 1 metre straight piece of 3inch (I think I paid "don't bother me it is the weekend" prices!)

The second project has been the battery relocation. I got some 50mm2 (o Gauge in the old money) welding cable and a bunch of eyelets from Gasweld, an isolator switch and some 25mm heat shrink and set to work.

The cable is huge. Once I got it into the car I began to think maybe this is overkill. It is at least three times the size of the standard battery lead. The voltage drop/current drop should be negligible.

I am running battery cable from the rear seat area along the trans tunnel and up to the isolation switch on the dash panel. From there it will run through the fire wall to the starter. I have left the original battery lead on the starter and I am using this to connect up to the factory power distribution box etc.

The original earth lead has been ground to the chassis using an existing bolt hole. All the paint was ground off in the area to ensure a good contact. A new earth lead will be constructed out of the monster cable and earthed to the chassis using one of the existing seatbelt bolts.

Cutting the monster cable posed a problem. The old crimping tool wasn't going to cut it (literally). I ended up using the drop saw and gently cutting through it. I ended up with a nice neat end I could work with. Same same the ole soldering iron just wasn't going to heat up that size cable in a hurry. I ended up using a propane pencil torch to solder the leads into the eyelets.

The last thing I achieved was relocating the radiator overflow bottle (again!). This time it is where the battery used to sit. I made up some custom brackets out of left over ally strap.

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Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 1604
Reg: 04-2006

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Sunday, August 09, 2009 - 05:12 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have been continuing work on the battery install. Unfortunately, Revolution racegear have left me cold on the battery thru panel I ordered over a week ago. I rang Racer Industries, ordered one over the phone and it should be here tomorrow, and it was $10 cheaper.

I made up a battery tray/mount for the Pulse out of 1.6mm ally sheet. First I had to build a bending brake out of plywood to get some nice, neat and precise bends. I think it came up all right. I still have a couple of things left to do. I want to find something to protect and insulate the positive terminal. The posts the battery came with sit about a centimeter proud of the top of the battery. They are held down by 5mm allen head bolts. I want to find some thing to replace these with so they sit flush or below the top of the battery, to also reduce the chances of anything arcing out.

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Damien Smith
DieHard
NSW
Manual UZZ31

Posts: 785
Reg: 07-2005

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Monday, August 10, 2009 - 07:50 am, by:  Damien Smith (Damien) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Very neat work. Can you post a pic of the bending brake you made?
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 1605
Reg: 04-2006

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Monday, August 10, 2009 - 07:39 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Here are some pics of the bending brake. I took a 600x1200x16mm sheet of ply and cut it cross ways to form the bed, 'bendy bit', and 'clampy bit'. I then used a 610mm piano hinge to join the bed to the bendy bit. I used some 8mm bolts, nuts and washers to fix the clamp to the bed. I drilled several different holes to allow for sheets up to 500mm wide. I put a slight bevel on the edge of the clamp to allow the hinge to pass through 90deg to allow for 'spring back'.

Works a treat. For the base of my battery mount I did both the long edges, and the used a block of wood clamped to the bed to do the short edge bends.




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Damien Smith
DieHard
NSW
Manual UZZ31

Posts: 786
Reg: 07-2005

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Monday, August 10, 2009 - 07:59 pm, by:  Damien Smith (Damien) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Brilliant!
Paul Kalie
Tinkerer
NSW
TT

Posts: 21
Reg: 02-2008

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Monday, August 10, 2009 - 08:14 pm, by:  Paul Kalie (Ajzs) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

nice work as usual mate, sorry missed your msg earlier mate was punching out ZZZZZ after night shift.

Post up the new purchase !!!!

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