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Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 2995
Reg: 04-2006

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Tuesday, December 20, 2011 - 10:27 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks Dan. The turbos are rebuilt by Munro Racing Turbochargers. They retain the stock core, so use all the stock lines. I bought them for $100, and think it was $1250 to have them rebuilt and highflowed.

There is a stock airbox for sale locally for $40. That is an option, but I am also considering building a custom airbox that uses a more common panel filter- something like a commodore or falcon. I need to look at what the pricing is like. I am happy to use the stock Toyota paper filter if I can get them cheap enough. I am just not convinced pod filters are any better than a clean panel filter. I am happy to give up the 6 or 7 kilowatts for a clean air supply and long reliable turbo/engine life.
James Johnson
TryHard
Auckland
UZZ31 Soarer x2

Posts: 500
Reg: 03-2009

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Wednesday, December 21, 2011 - 02:31 am, by:  James Johnson (Jimbo) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Ben Lipman wrote on Tuesday, December 20, 2011 - 10:27 pm:

. I am happy to use the stock Toyota paper filter if I can get them cheap enough.




Talk to Warren Day from here, Yes he is in NZ but he can get you a genuine K&N panel filter or a full filter and oil etc and it is in NZ currency so would work out cheap for you.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 2997
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Thursday, December 22, 2011 - 10:12 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Where is he at James? Rutherford and Bond Toyota?

I am going to get hold of the stock airbox just to keep my options open. I remember Peter Scott doing a bunch of tests on air filters, and the Factory paper element compared pretty well.

Haven't done much on the track car lately, just pottering around cleaning up etc. I did sand back and respray the front bar on the road car though. Came up pretty nice given it is a mica/metallic paint.
Carl Mccormack
TryHard
QLD
'91 Soarer TT

Posts: 178
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Thursday, December 22, 2011 - 07:16 pm, by:  Carl Mccormack (Eville) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hey Ben I'm not sure what new ones are worth but I was just at Dylan's and he has 3 sitting in a box on his floor that's the actual black outside not sure if there's filters inside but I'm sure he will sell them cheap. I'll text him if u want see what sort of money he'd want for them??
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

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Thursday, December 22, 2011 - 10:16 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Yeah wouldn't mind finding out mate.

If some one has one that has been "BFIed" and wants to sell cheap I'd be interested. I think the plan is to cut the front out of a stock airbox and then seal it up from the engine bay with sheetmetal or fibreglass. My BFI on the road car is working well, and showed marked improvement over stock.

Be a shame to cut up yet another stock airbox, as they must be getting rare with all the BFI action a few years ago.
Dan McColl
Goo Roo
Victoria (The Nazi State)
Pretty Red Thing and The Black Rattler

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Thursday, December 22, 2011 - 11:05 pm, by:  Dan McColl (Hoon) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a spare stock airbox (non BFI'd) you can have, Ben. Shoot me a PM with postage details.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 3000
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Friday, December 23, 2011 - 08:07 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

OK- thanks Dan. I'll send you a PM now.
James Johnson
DieHard
Auckland
UZZ31 Soarer x2

Posts: 502
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Monday, December 26, 2011 - 03:34 am, by:  James Johnson (Jimbo) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Ben Lipman wrote on Thursday, December 22, 2011 - 10:12 am:

Where is he at James? Rutherford and Bond Toyota?




Auto 1 Manurewa. Do a search for his name if he still has an account, just last time I spoke to him he had just sold his Soarer for a Forester as he is a family man now.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 3018
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Saturday, December 31, 2011 - 03:32 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I was given a pair of doors to use as plugs for the fibreglass door moulds by a generous member. My wife sends her kindest regards to Peter, as she just realised she is about to become a shed widow again.

I got the doors home and stripped them so I can have a think about how I want them moulded. I think I am going to do the mould in three parts, the outer skin first, using the glass as a flange of sorts. The second mould will be the the inner frame around the window, and the frame of the door complete. The third mould will be a flat panel to cover the rest.

This will make it easy to fiddle around inside the door getting the catch and hinges supported and fitted up. It will also allow the fitment of a fibreglass brace if the door proves to be too flimsy.

The first thing I noticed is MAN ARE THOSE DOORS HUGE! 1.5m long, 1.1m tall, and 42kg with pov pack trim. If I can get out of this with each door complete weighing 10kg, I'll have saved 60kg over stock, and probably 20-30kg over my current stripped out doors.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 3022
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Monday, January 02, 2012 - 10:40 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Having a look at the drivers door, I noticed the paint has 'bubbles'. Seeing as Peter doesn't want the doors back I decided to sand them back in order to get the best surface I can to take a mould from. In the pics you can see where the bumps were (all the light circles) There is no sign of rust on the inner skin, so I'll be buggered if I know what they are from.



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I then shot a coat of high fill putty, and the work begins on getting them nice and smooth. I'll probably shoot a coat of clear over the top of the putty/primer coats to make a nice glossy surface.

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Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 3031
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Wednesday, January 04, 2012 - 05:09 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Well yesterday I realised the error of my ways, and sanded the putty back off the door.(The putty I have is NOT designed to be laid straight over steel, body filler, or paint). I then laid down three coats of primer, sanded, and then two coats of putty, sanded and sanded some more.

You can see what I think of sanding in the photos below...

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You can see the black enamel coat, and the start of the flanges. I am using scraps of .9mm aluminium for the flanges this time as it can be bent and holds its shape which is helpful in following the curves of the door.

Wish I had of just used acrylic clear instead of black enamel, as I could have rubbed it back and waxed it by now... I hate waiting. The black enamel was still in a gun from another project. Laziness, gets you every time.

I still need to relocate the water temp sensor as well. I just cant gather up enough interest to go and put my hands back in the engine bay around those turbos.
Peter Howden
DieHard
WA
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

Posts: 772
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Wednesday, January 04, 2012 - 06:41 pm, by:  Peter Howden (Nolegsman) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

YOU CAN DO IT .. Just think of the enjoyment once you're done mate .. TURBO POWER RULES
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 3036
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Wednesday, January 04, 2012 - 08:47 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Andrew McKellar
DieHard
NSW
Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly)

Posts: 527
Reg: 06-2008

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Thursday, January 05, 2012 - 03:16 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Keep up the great work Ben. I'm half tempted to drive over there and give you a hand. Any materials you need shipped over? Send me an email if so.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

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Thursday, January 05, 2012 - 09:25 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

and I'd be half tempted to put you up in the guest room and put whatever your poison is in the bar...

I think I am OK for materials. The doors have all the hardware in them. I have glass and the shop is just 1/2 hour down the road for more resin.

I made a mould of the door skin today. Not going as heavy on the mould as the front bar- only 4 layers this time. Should be fine as the shape is less complex.


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Andrew McKellar
DieHard
NSW
Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly)

Posts: 529
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Friday, January 06, 2012 - 06:53 am, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Great stuff.

When it comes time to make the parts, do the inner skeleton first. Trim it up and try it for size and fit in the mold for the outer skin. Then do the outer half and while the resin is wet press the skeleton into it and clamp it until the resin goes off.

That will provide a much better bond than any adhesive you try to apply later.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 3040
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Friday, January 06, 2012 - 07:38 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hey, good idea.

In that case, I am wondering if I need to glass some wood bracing into the door skin mould then, as I will end up supporting a fair bit of weight (relative) during the curing stage.

I want to flip the door over today and start work on the skeleton today. Still figuring out what I am doing there. I don't need the full skeleton (ie the stuff there that supports the window mech etc) but I know Phil does, and I am happy to try and help others as I have got a lot of help from guys along the way.

I think I might do the whole inner skeleton as a single mould, and then I can do both cut down and full styles down the track from the same mould.

I haven't started the second door because I want to apply anything I learn from this door to the other, and I only have so much room. The other moulds are starting to take up space!
Paul Kalie
Tinkerer
NSW
TT

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Friday, January 06, 2012 - 11:29 am, by:  Paul Kalie (Ajzs) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ben, I also recommend bonding the external skin to the inner skeleton internally with fibreglass as well. Note the door skin on the Hankook WRX at about the 48 sec and also 5 mins 5 sec's
mark in this video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7SqxhuqJI0
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 3042
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Friday, January 06, 2012 - 01:12 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

All right. glass it is.

I have just spent the morning prepping the skeleton. Man, there are a LOT of holes that need to be plugged. Because it is not a sexy part, I took to just using duct tape to plug holes. I also made up a trim piece from wood and foam to fill the horrible gap between the glass and inner skin when there is no door trim present. For us guys running lexan windows it will help mount them.

Just grabbing some lunch and feeding the boys before going back out.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

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Friday, January 06, 2012 - 05:05 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Pics from today...


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Fibreglassing today was no fun. Used about double the resin as yesterday, and there is crap everywhere. I figured 8 layers of 225gsm would be the same as 4 layers of 450gsm right? Wrong. I need to buy some more 450gsm matt, because 225 is a pain in the arse when you need bulk for a mould. Felt like a thousand things needed doing at the same time.

Made the full skeleton, so should be able to do a skeleton that mounts door hardware, trim peices, power windows etc.

I have a headache to boot....


Andrew McKellar
DieHard
NSW
Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly)

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Friday, January 06, 2012 - 07:43 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

No gelcoat?
Dan McColl
Goo Roo
Victoria (The Nazi State)
Pretty Red Thing and The Black Rattler

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Friday, January 06, 2012 - 08:50 pm, by:  Dan McColl (Hoon) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

oops.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

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Friday, January 06, 2012 - 09:49 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Neutral gelcoat. I only have neutral gel coat and black pigment at home. I'll be using black gel coat for the doors, so need to use neutral for the mould to provide the contrast. Would have liked to use some bright colour, but CBF driving down to the supplier.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

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Sunday, January 08, 2012 - 02:44 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I did some sums today as I found all my FGI receipts an noticed they totalled well over a grand! Only noticed as I am almost out of chopped strand matt, resin and gelcoat. Looks like I do need to drive down the the supplier

Each door mould is costing over $200 in materials.

I didn't realise because I bought bulk stores before christmas, like a couple of rolls of matting, 4kg tins of gelcoat, and 20kg drums of resin.

I need more supplies. Time to sell a kidney. Or at least go through the shed and sell anything from a previous hobby, any parts that are not going into the car, and everything that has more than 2mm of dust on it. (clearly hasn't been used in a while)

Anyone want to buy a futon?
Andrew McKellar
DieHard
NSW
Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly)

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Sunday, January 08, 2012 - 05:48 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Kids are getting a good price on e-bay at the moment mate.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

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Sunday, January 08, 2012 - 07:05 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

wanna buy mine? Just sent them to neutral corners, erm, rooms.

Ran out of aluminium duct tape at 10 to 5 this arvo. Still eleventy holes to patch, and gapos to cover. Had hoped to have the inner skin fully prepped this arvo and possibly have the glass laid down...oh well. Tomorrow is going to be a parts run/family time. Will get back to it on Tuesday.

Was unable to get hold of Morpowa last week so I assume they had two weeks off over christmas. I really, really want to get the car in for the new loom to be made. There is now no chance of making the test day next weekend as originally planned, so the new target is now the open practice day in Feb.

Might work out OK, as the reason I decided to make fibreglass doors in the first place was so I had something to work on whilst Morpowa had the car. At this rate I may have the doors on the car by the next time I drive it.

Hmmm, maybe time to vent the bonnet....
Allan Langford
DieHard
Vic
UZZ31

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Sunday, January 08, 2012 - 09:26 pm, by:  Allan Langford (Allan) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

bit late now but probably would of been a good idea to at least for the hinge bolt holes, door locks and power window mounts. get some some 2cm long lengths of tube and a long bolt and attach them to the factory bolt holes so the bits of tube become part of the mold for drilling or setting studs into the final part.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

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Sunday, January 08, 2012 - 10:17 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

What I did was cover the holes with duct tape and depress the duct tape so the outline of the hole can be seen in the mould. From there I'll be able to find the centre in the part and drill it.

I couldn't think of a more elegant way of doing it. What you have suggested would have worked though. Might be able to do it retrospectively.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

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Wednesday, January 11, 2012 - 02:30 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I cracked open all four moulds today.

There are some gelcoat issues on the two inner skeletons I need to deal with, and the door I did not strip back completely and repaint, well it is clear it was repaired and repainted at some stage in its life. The paint has peeled off and stuck to the inside of my mould, as well as some of the bog.

I have washed the lot of them and they are drying out while I do some research on how to rectify the issues.

I am considering using body filler to fill some of the wrinkles in the gelcoat caused by the tape wrinkling up, and where the gelcoat fractured as the moulds parted.

I am not sure what to do about the paint/bog stuck to the mould. I might try rubbing with thinners etc, or may have to wet and dry the whole bloody mould and then repolish it.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

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Thursday, January 12, 2012 - 04:01 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Major setback. I got back to the car itself today to chase down the coolant leak behind the water pump. Being the cautious soul I am, I checked the coolant level before starting the car.

Odd. Nothing in the radiator? Now how did all the coolant from the radiator leak from the top of the water pump?

I filled the radiator and started the car. Hmmm, a lot of drips coming from the lower left side of the radiator. Shut down and investigate. Maybe the rubber O ring on the drain plug is perished. Replaced that but still leaking. Seemed to be coming from the sender unit next to the drain bung. Sealed that up good and proper with thread tape.

Refilled radiator, and there were still drips from that area. 10 minutes with a towel drying the area down, assuming maybe it was spillage from filling. Nope.

THE BLOODY ALUMINIUM RADIATOR LEAKS LIKE A SIEVE!

Why the do I bother buying second hand parts?

Now presented with two choices: get the "new" radiator repaired, or get the trusty factory unit repaired, because NEITHER HOLD WATER!

In other news I am still waiting for Morpowa to pull their finger out and make my loom for the Haltech. Only been 6 weeks...maybe that is a good thing considering the car wouldn't hold water long enough to do a dyno pull.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

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Thursday, January 12, 2012 - 04:11 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Whilst around with the radiator sh!tfight, I discovered that the factory coolant sender unit cannot be used to run Speco coolant temp gauges. Was a very long shot, but worth a try given the simplicity of the job. The sender must have a different resistance or whatever makes them work, as the gauge seems to read almost twice as high as the actual water temp.

I may go out and pull the sender out, to see what sort of thread it had, in the hope the speco sender will go right in. I had been holding off just incase Morpowa wanted to use the factory sender for the Haltech install. I am gonna hope they'll just use the ecu sender only.

Ironically, there doesn't seem to be a coolant leak from behind the water pump any more. No matter how hot I got the car, or how high it revved, the leak seems to have fixed itself. (now I know that never happens, so we'll wait and see. Hopefully the new gasket comes in from Toyota soon so I'll have it on the shelf when it is needed)
Paul Kalie
Tinkerer
NSW
TT

Posts: 94
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Thursday, January 12, 2012 - 04:38 pm, by:  Paul Kalie (Ajzs) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

hmmmm, Feel your pain ... Do you want me to chase Morpowa thru Brad ? ..
Ben Lipman
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SA
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Thursday, January 12, 2012 - 08:30 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Nah,

I'll keep ringing them and annoying them. The guy that makes the harness is some bloke they bring in, not permanent staff. Once the harness is made, it is all down hill from there. I just get the feeling that while the car is not parked there under their feet, they are forgetting about it.

I have made an inner skeleton from the mould. The door latch goes in nice and easily, but the hinge end is a pain in the arse, because it uses bolts that screw into nuts welded to the door frame. I need to make something up, like some metal strap with nuts welded to it and then glass that into the door. The trick will be getting it spot on, so the hinge lines up.

Might have to make a jig up for both the left and right.

I am unable to weigh the skeleton, but it is more than 2kg,and quite stiff. I might be able to get away with less glass next time. I was concerned I needed it to handle the hinge etc so the ends and bottom got a few layers. I am going to do a single layer of 450gsm matt for the skin when I figure out the hinge mounts. I doubt I'll hit the 5kg target weight, maybe closer to 6kg, and that is without hardware. If I am exactly 1:2 with my glass resin ratio, I might be close assuming the skeleton doesn't weigh much more than 3kg.
Dan McColl
Goo Roo
Victoria (The Nazi State)
Pretty Red Thing and The Black Rattler

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Friday, January 13, 2012 - 01:02 am, by:  Dan McColl (Hoon) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Just a thought, Consider not using the soarer hinge, but perhaps an alternate??

I'm guessing the leak went away because with the sieve like radiator the system is not building up pressure.
Ali Saeed
Goo Roo
WA
Nothing yet :/

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Friday, January 13, 2012 - 02:48 am, by:  Ali Saeed (Ali) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

doesnt the door contribute to the rigidity of the car? would a fibreglass door compromise this?
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

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Friday, January 13, 2012 - 08:04 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Dan- I have considered it, and am thinking of using a pair of drop in gate hinges so the doors can be removed completely. The trick will be getting the geometry correct so they open and close with out catching on anything. The factory hinge moves through an arc as it opens.

I want to sort the door with the factory hinges first, as I am really curious if the door will handle it.

Overnight I decided the metal plates and nuts do not need to be glassed in. It would make it easy to bolt the door to the hinge, but is not necessary for structural integrity. I am going to buy some steel strap and a bunch of metric nuts today and have a play around. Only a week left of holidays...

You might be right with the leak, however it did leak when I first filled the new radiator after refitting the turbos. (Why didn't I pick up the radiator leaks then- I spilt water everywhere when filling, and was mainly concerned my turbo install went OK). I have fixed two of the leaks, but the core is beyond my capabilities. I might go and get the stock one fixed, depending on the cost- at least I can sell the thing or keep it as a spare.

Ali- No. Definitely not in my car. The roll cage does all that. There has been some debate on how important the doors are but it is null and void in a race car with a proper cage. The only way I can see it being a structural component is the side impact protection running from the hinge to the striker plate. The rest of the door is not in contact with the body at all, as it rests against a soft rubber dust seal.

I have cut the side impact bar out of the passenger door already...
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

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Saturday, January 14, 2012 - 08:04 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I pulled my 'prototype' drivers door out of the mould today. Here it is before trimming and cleaning.

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The door weighed 5.6kg straight out of the mould. It was however too flimsy, so I added a reinforcing strip of foam and glass to the inside as can be seen below.
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I also glassed in steel tabs to mount the factory door handle to the door. These additions caused the weight of the door to go up to 6kg. With the lexan window, door handle, door latch, some covers for the two holes and the door hinge mounts I would expect the weight to go up to around 8-9kg. The factory door catch is pretty heavy. Still a big weight saving over stock.

Have a few issues to work through, such as the inside and outside parts on the stock door do not line up. I didn't realise this until I put the moulds together. The inside window frame sits about one inch smaller all round than the outside, and there is about a one inch gap that is filled by all the window tracks etc. I do not want to use all these pieces in my doors, so I need to solve that.

I will try a test fit either tomorrow or Monday.

Car goes in to get its new harness mid next week, and then straight to the dyno at Morpowa for tuning.

I went out to Mallala today to watch the open practice. I should have taken the Soarer as it is now for a shakedown of the new front bar/turbos piping/radiator etc, as there were bugger all cars out there and conditions were nice at 27 degrees and sunny.
Paul Kalie
Tinkerer
NSW
TT

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Saturday, January 14, 2012 - 08:21 pm, by:  Paul Kalie (Ajzs) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Looking Good mate, was always going to be a bit of trial and error. Cant wait to see how the tuning goes also.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 3099
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Wednesday, January 18, 2012 - 09:31 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Been working hard the last few days. The drivers door went on the car with a few clearance issues. A bit of sanding on the front edge fixed that. The factory hinges work just fine, as does the factory catch and door handles. Didn't have a spare interior handle to try, but the cable pull opened the door no problems. The only major issue is the door sits out from the car 6-7mm which I think is due to the additional thickness of the fibreglass. Will work on it.



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I also stumbled upon a bonnet vent for sale, so whilst waiting for the glass to go off I cut a hole inthe bonnet and fitted that up. Came up OK for an unplanned job. (I have been looking for a vented bonnet for a while so I knew exactly where the vent needed to be etc). At this stage I have the vent bonded and riveted to the bonnet, and started blending them together. I will eventually make a fibreglass bonnet when I am happy with the shape. Due to the fact it is hopefully going into the sparky this arvo I gave the bonnet a spray pack paint job and put the steel door back on so the car can be locked etc.



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Orton Marchant
TryHard
NSW Blacktown
JZZ31

Posts: 176
Reg: 01-2011

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Wednesday, January 18, 2012 - 11:15 am, by:  Orton Marchant (Mythorite) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

looking good there ben
Phil Gibson
Goo Roo
WA
'91 UZZ30, '91 manual UZZ31 track bunky, '94 blk/blk UZZ31

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Wednesday, January 18, 2012 - 05:19 pm, by:  Phil Gibson (Sciflyer) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Nice work

My dad has made up a jig and mold for a bonnet, we even made a sample, but he has not had any time to do a proper one unfortunately so i am still on the hunt for one

US Ebay prices for Seibon ones are ok, but predictably its the freight costs that blow them out of the water.

Plus i bet the Seibon ones are still a lot heavier than they need to be

There are some very nice cf/fg Soarer doors on Yahoo japan.... for over 2k...
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

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Wednesday, January 18, 2012 - 07:46 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks Phil. I will eventually make the bonnet up in fibreglass, but for now It will do as is. I have too much work on my hands with the doors. They are proving much trickier than I had hoped. Doing a straight copy of the inside of the door frame is not producing the results I want. I am now thinking about making my own custom/modified inner door frame that better matches the stock outer skin. I know that sounds weird, but a lot of the upper part of the door is rubber seals and stuff, and the glass sits outside this and against the outer skin.

This works fine on the stock door, with stock glass, but is not producing the clean window frame I wanted. The other option is to cut it back and use the stock rubbers etc.

I am now pulling the factory engine bay loom out of the car myself, and the car will go to the sparky next week. It is hard, as I don't really know what he wants me to keep, and the injector and ignition looms are all mixed in with other looms like the alternator and a bunch of unknown stuff. I am tempted to pull everything and just let him sort it out, LOL. I am pulling the factory computer, ABS ect tomorrow, and all the door looms are going as well. No more power windows and central locking for me. I might ditch the factory dash at the same time.
Danny Dinh
DieHard
Victoria
GT T

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Thursday, January 19, 2012 - 02:46 pm, by:  Danny Dinh (Xtc) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ben, I've been reading your build. What a project! Love all the works you've done. I will continue to follow your build. been thinking of asking everyone to chip in a bit to help you finish it. The earlier you finish it the earlier we have them on our track cars right??? assuming you'll make them for the Soarer community?
Phil Gibson
Goo Roo
WA
'91 UZZ30, '91 manual UZZ31 track bunky, '94 blk/blk UZZ31

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Thursday, January 19, 2012 - 04:48 pm, by:  Phil Gibson (Sciflyer) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I know what you mean with the looms, i kinda wish i'd taken the opportunity when i was swapping my engine to strip the main engine loom, there are so many wires that you can get rid of and generally just tidy up particularly at the back of the engine which is a bastard to reach when its in the car!
Michael McKellar
Tinkerer
Overijssel
Mini

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Thursday, January 19, 2012 - 06:13 pm, by:  Michael McKellar (Mickmini) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Looking good Ben,

But - and i hate to say this now you have put it together - that vent will work much better at speed if it sits in the front third of the bonnet. This area is a low pressure zone due to the air rolling over the front edge and helps suck the air through. Where the vent is now is neutral to higher pressure due to the screen sticking up into the airstream. In that position you rely on the stagnation pressure developed in front of the radiator to force the air out the bonnet, and it will more likely head out under the car where you have a nice low pressure zone due to the wickedly low front splitter and side skirts.

Fix it when you go to make the final vented bonnet.

cheers
michael

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