Author |
Message |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
Posts: 3102 Reg: 04-2006
| Danny- it is unlikely I'll be making parts for everyone. I have a full time job already. There are a couple of guys who I have done some stuff for, they have done stuff for me, who I owe a favour and that sort of thing. I have made a fair bit of progress lately but I am back at work next week. If the doors came out of the mould in good shape and ready to go I might consider it, but there is just so much work involved in getting them right. I am still refining the method for making the doors. I may end up with an entire new mould for the inner skeleton which will be for track only, fixed window cars only. If this works out easier then I might sell a couple of sets to help offset the costs of everything else. They would only go to those with 'track cars' as I cannot be bothered with some princess whinging about the finish of some part of the doors. I am not a businessman and have NO customer service skills Same thing with the bonnet, which I haven't even put a lot of thought into. None of the parts would be safe on a road car (side impact, crumple zones), and would be an instant defect at minimum. Phil- the wiring is killing me. I rang the sparky today and confirmed he wants everything out, which makes it a little easier. I pulled the computer/ABS computer and a fair bit of loom today, however am stuck trying to get everything of/away from the intake manifold. I think it might be easier to pull everything going forwards of the fire wall out, and then just put the wiring required for the lights etc back in. Same thing in the dash area. I might just pull it all. As long as the engine fires up, the lights etc work, and I have my four gauges working that is all I really need on a track car right? Michael- From memory, the centre of the bonnet was where my testing showed the greatest pressure differential either side of the bonnet. This is also what the other Ben(who I bought the vent from) found when he did his manometer testing. The other problem, is the first vent is about two inches to the rear of the fan shroud on the radiator. If you go much further forwards the vent will be in front of the radiator and then not really servicing anything, in my opinion. t is deceptive, but the radiator sits roughly 500mm back from the leading edge of the bonnet. I might get the manometer out again, although there is a significant difference between the road car and race car now. I guess the upper bar and bonnet areas are exactly the same profile. ( I could always put the whole front bar on the road car, LOL) As you say, I can fix it easily enough if it turns out my memory is wrong (I should have put pics up like I did of the guards when doing those vents- which i want to extend forwards to get more air flowing through. Where does it end, ) |
Danny Dinh
DieHard Victoria GT T
Posts: 690 Reg: 11-2005
| Yes track car i'm talking about. bonnet & doors in fibre glass will save heaps of weight on a Soarer. I'm down for those if you decide to make them. |
Mike Beck
Goo Roo New Zealand BMW E36 Coupe 1UZFE V8 340i
Posts: 5444 Reg: 11-2005
| Wow thats some series dedication. Well done! Instead of trying to make my soarers lighter, I decided to just take the V8 motor and put it into a lighter car. |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
Posts: 3105 Reg: 04-2006
| Mike, great idea. Anyone got an S13, AE86, or Rx-7 shell they want to give me? It certainly would have been easier. I should have kept the Rx-7 and just stripped it for track use. Would have been under the tonne with all steel panels, everything you need has been done before, and they are tracked successfully all over the world. Plus rotorheads always seem happy to lend you a hand, motor, gearbox etc to get you out of trouble. (Paul and I once stayed up to 2am changing a gearbox in his before towing the car 3 hours to the track for a 7 am start, LOL) I pulled the second door from the mould today. There is much benefit in leaving the door in the mould for a few days. I have read this, been told this, and know this, but didn't practice this last time. Second door has a bigger reinforcing bar joining the catch to the hinge along the skin, and is much more convincing because of it. I also left some of the raw glass reinforcement around the skeleton and then rolled this into the wet resin of the skin when I clamped them. This resulted in a much cleaner, stronger seam. Unfortunately, despite all my care the raw door still weighs exactly 6kg, 1kg more than the target weight. This is the difference between a professional and the hack. I am using more resin than the 2 or 2.5:1 ratio that is recommended for CSM. I wonder how a fibreglass cloth would perform? The main effort today was getting the engine loom out. That was achieved by lunch time, but for some strange reason I decided to remove all the wiring all together. I now have no dash, no door looms, and only the light wiring and a bunch of unknown wires left forward of the windscreen. 12Kg of wiring came out in total, on top of the 20-25kg of wiring already pulled. The tail lights, brake lights etc at the rear all work, but I can't get the headlights, parkers etc to work. The indicators also have gone on the blink, but I am pretty sure this is because the hazard button is out of the car. The high beams work fine when you 'flash' them though. I need to mount the haltech somewhere before ringing the sparky and getting it into his shop. |
Dan McColl
Goo Roo Victoria (The Nazi State) Pretty Red Thing and The Black Rattler
Posts: 3239 Reg: 07-2005
| Mount it somewhere high, so if you get caught in rain and the car fills up the ecu doesn't get wet. |
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo NSW TT 2.5L 6 cylinder
Posts: 6604 Reg: 03-2006
| Coming along Ben . A light car would be awsome , mate of mine has a series 2 RX7 with 1jz , precision turbo making 445rwhp through an r154 ... It weighs just over 1 tonne and is engineered and street legal ! More like street Lethal , hehe . The reason Nissans are so popular is the abundance of aftermarket resources available , suspension , brakes , cages and the norm . |
Phil Gibson
Goo Roo WA '91 UZZ30, '91 manual UZZ31 track bunky, '94 blk/blk UZZ31
Posts: 1959 Reg: 07-2005
| The problem with smaller, lighter cars like RX7s and S13s is once you start making decent power with them things start breaking, a problem we dont really have Id rather take the extra weight if it means i dont have to worry about my gearbox, diff, brakes or suspension having a short lifespan... |
Nathan Richardson
DieHard N.T. UZZ32 #445 (V8 Supercherged 5Speed. 291RWKW)
Posts: 622 Reg: 02-2006
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Ben Lipman wrote on Friday, January 20, 2012 - 09:16 pm:The indicators also have gone on the blink, but I am pretty sure this is because the hazard button is out of the car.
That's exactly the reason. Wow Mate, you really are the machine!!! Hope you had a great Christmas and New Years. Cheers. |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
Posts: 3116 Reg: 04-2006
| You to Nathan. I suspected as much from the wiring diagram. I am not sure what I am going to do to get the indicators working again- the part of the loom the hazard button plugs into is now neatly installed in a plastic tub on the floor. I'll probably hard wire it into an suitable place according to the schematic. Or tear everything left out (not much- a single loom across under the dash and a few wires across the radiator support plus the tail light loom) and do something like a painless wiring kit from scratch. I have the bare minimum of tail and brake lights/ high beam, but it would be nice to have working indicators and headlights as well. Make those twighlight track meets a bit easier. |
Paul Kalie
Tinkerer NSW TT
Posts: 96 Reg: 02-2008
| Ben here's the link I was telling you about http://www.playwithcarbon.com/build-your-own-kits/ |
Phil Gibson
Goo Roo WA '91 UZZ30, '91 manual UZZ31 track bunky, '94 blk/blk UZZ31
Posts: 1960 Reg: 07-2005
| Ben im re-doing some of my dash gauges at teh moment so while im under there (this weekend maybe) i'll see if i can find what two wires i joined to bypass the hazard switch so the indicators will work I too have gutted a fair bit of dash wiring but somehow managed to keep the essential stuff working |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
Posts: 3120 Reg: 04-2006
| Cheers Phil. The car is with the sparky at the moment getting the Haltech installed. If you figure it out I'd be glad to hear it. I told him I would sort the headlights and blinkers- I don't want to pay him $75 an hour to figure it out, LOL. He has enough work getting the computer in and sorting out getting the car running. I may go a complete new starting system and fuel pump wiring (he will let me know what the most efficient, cost effective way forward is). If this is the case, every single wire Toyota put in there will then come out and I'll have a start button and switch panel installed. I'll also make my own loom to run headlights and blinkers. I don't have the dash anymore so all I have left are the four gauges. Will need to buy a tacho though... In case you didn't know the headlight loom actually does two complete laps of the engine bay! For example the earth lead from the left headlight actually runs back to the firewall, across under the dash, and down to the right cowl earth point. It then runs forwards to the right headlights again, which have a wire for the high beam indicator light so it goes back up to the dash, then across the fire wall and back down to the left headlights. It all makes sense when you have all the computers, warning lights, dingers, courtesy lights and door trims in the car, but it makes tracing faults take some time. |
Michael McKellar
Tinkerer Overijssel Mini
Posts: 99 Reg: 08-2008
| I got a STACK Clubman tacho for the Mini. Pretty happy with it. Loads of features that are useful and it drives a shift light, but the output is generic so I am just using a 3LED light that outshines the sun instead of one of those stupid boyracer tube things. I think the STACK looks a lot more professional than the Autometer ones that everyone gets. http://www.stackltd.com/st200.html Local distributor http://www.inawise.com/ I got mine from Demon Tweeks when I was over in NL cheers michael |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
Posts: 3129 Reg: 04-2006
| Cheers Michael. Looks good. The sparky and tuner are recommending a racepak dash or similar. That is another thousand bucks I would have to find though. Frankly I don't have it. They argue if you're going to spend hundreds ($500 for that model just googling) on a tacho alone it is not that much more. The racepak would also replace all the gauges etc as well if I choose. I will hold off in the meantime and just concentrate on getting the car back home and running. Cash is a scarce commodity this time of year. |
Michael McKellar
Tinkerer Overijssel Mini
Posts: 100 Reg: 08-2008
| from demon tweeks 199 quid = $295, delivery 33 quid = $49 So less than $350 delivered. Beats $1k for most of the info you normally need. What would the dash give you that helps more? Oh, and i bet their argument helps them sell the dash? (nothing wrong with people doing business mind) cheers michael |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
Posts: 3130 Reg: 04-2006
| The attraction of the dash is the 'all in one' feature. There is one plug from the Haltech to the dash and you then have access to all the sensors the Haltech is reading. Basics would be the usual oil temp, pressure, water temp, boost, fuel level (if you run a sender) as well as the engine speed, and vehicle speed. The data model has 2GB data logging, as well as a GPS unit so you can map your own tracks and it also acts as an onboard laptimer(similar to the Racechrono/mobile phone/5hz bluetooth GPS transmitter I use for lap timing currently). With this model you can have your data logging overlayed onto a track map. There is something like 28 different channels you can log, so you could even wire in the brake light switch or get all gucci and put some load sensors etc around the car. Speaking to the sparky, he could also wire in the wheel speed sensors from the factory ABS. I wouldn't know how to use all the data and would run the risk of being overwhelmed. On the other hand it would be another way to race against your own PBs... I am not concerned with them trying to sell me stuff. I paid the same as buying direct from Haltech, except there was no freight cost (to me- someone paid it!) Plus it was one of the back room guys I was chatting to, not the owner/sales guys. The sparky is a separate entity to the tuner shop and suggested the same thing for simplicity. He runs one in his race car. I should point out that the plain dash is about $900 and the data logging dash is more like $1800 so there is a significant difference, but it is not so bad if you were looking at some sort of on board data logging any rate. Same goes if you were looking at buying a lap timing system. If I was starting from scratch with all the money I have spent on my gauges, GPS, suitable mobile (lap timer use only), and Apexi RSM (which I use for peak speed/peak RPM/ average speed/RPM etc) and so on I would certainly go down this option. Without going to the Haltech book, I believe there is already data logging in the PS2000 I have purchased. I assume this is accessed by laptop and cable (was included in the pack) but I have not looked into it too far. As I said, at this stage I am not looking to make any more purchases until I have the car up and running. I can always find a way to wire the Apexi RSM back in and use the digital Tacho on that. It has a simple output I could use to trigger a shift light, but to date I have survived with out one as the stock motor/management did not encourage over revving as the 'urge' started to peter out before hitting redline any way. The Haltech also can trigger a shift light with one of its outputs, so I have plenty of options. |
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo NSW TT 2.5L 6 cylinder
Posts: 6638 Reg: 03-2006
| Hey Ben , With the turbo upgrades from Munro , do you still run the factory oil/water lines ? |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
Posts: 3138 Reg: 04-2006
| Yeah. It all bolts straight back in. OEM quality = peace of mind when it comes to all those lines in my opinion. I could have taken the opportunity to get new ones in there, but didn't. Car should be back from the sparky tomorrow. Hopefully I can get it into Morpowa and get it tuned as there is a practice day next Saturday. Otherwise it is a couple of weeks before the next one. I have two fibreglass doors ready to go on the car, less the lexan windows. The drivers door hasn't been fixed- I am halfway though making a second drivers door with some modifications around the window frame area. The new door will not be able to use the factory window rubbers and guides, but it will be a much neater window frame for using fixed lexan windows (hopefully). The weather has turned sour, so I am waiting before laying up the skin and bonding the skeleton to it. |
Phil Gibson
Goo Roo WA '91 UZZ30, '91 manual UZZ31 track bunky, '94 blk/blk UZZ31
Posts: 1961 Reg: 07-2005
| these are the two wires i joined that i believe are to keep indicators working without the hazard switch - heavier-than-standard guage white/red and green/red As you can see i have chopped all dash wiring back to teh main loom that runs across the dash so all the looms that went down to the centre console area are gone The thin green wire with teh terminal strip on it is the dash illumination wire which gets connected to the tacho/oil pressure/boost guages i have |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
Posts: 3140 Reg: 04-2006
| Cheers Phil. Hopefully I pick up the car tomorrow. I have no idea what the sparky left, as I told him to go to town and start from scratch if it was the more cost efficient option. There wasn't much left in there when I gave it to him. If all goes to plan the car will go into Morpowa for a tune the following day. Fingers crossed I'l have it back in time for the weekend. |
Paul Kalie
Tinkerer NSW TT
Posts: 97 Reg: 02-2008
| Sorry for Spaming your thread Ben , but here is another Awesome Carbon Door write up.. http://www.theturboforums.com/PBcarbonfiber.php Also do you have the car back yet ?? |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
Posts: 3143 Reg: 04-2006
| Hey Paul. I had the car back on Monday night but now it is in at Morpowa. Dropped it off yesterday so they can tune it when they get to it. They were booked out. They are sponsoring a drag racing event tomorrow, and it has bought a lot of car out of the woodwork and they all need a tune, LOL. Troy the sparky has done a good job on the install. I now have all new looms in the engine bay, including new plugs, coil packs, clips, injector clips, and so on. He got it all going through the stock key barrel, so I have maintained a small amount of security being that you need the key to start it. I have had another setback with the fibreglass doors. The second drivers door did not fit right. I have gone back to the source and checked the mould by placing the stock door in it. Whaddayaknow- they are different shapes. Either my rushing or the cool weather at the time has meant that the mould was not fully cured at the time of cracking, and this allowed the mould to 'curl up'. I am going to use the weight of the door sitting in the mould to try and reverse the situation, and will add some ribs and flanges to increase the cross sectional area in an attempt to brace the mould against distortion. I have three doors that I can use on the car. They open and close and latch using the stock hardware, but the drivers doors are not very pretty, and they are more suited to a wide body kit, LOL. Still a long way from having doors that go on the car and look like a stock part. |
Andrew McKellar
DieHard NSW Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly)
Posts: 533 Reg: 06-2008
| I have a wide body kit... |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
Posts: 3150 Reg: 04-2006
| yeah, but the door was ugg-lee. A wide body kit would hopefully hide the shape, LOL. |
Paul Kalie
Tinkerer NSW TT
Posts: 98 Reg: 02-2008
| Come on Ben update everyone |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
Posts: 3156 Reg: 04-2006
| Picked up the car today. It now makes 237rwkw. Should see a drop in lap times.
More than I was expecting, but realistically probably at the limit of the factory injectors. Was tuned on 14psi. I wish I had of bothered to do a dyno run prior to the Haltech install to see what power I had been running up to this point. Ahhh, the benefit of hindsight. I am now officially out of money for the forseeable future. I am now looking for an opportunity to run the car at a practice day or private track day/lapsprint day. I had considered the next time attack event, but the cost of entering combined with the very minimal track time would make this a waste of time and money. I am persevering with correcting the door mould, but it is a slow job. And unrewarding. |
Aaron Casey
Goo Roo nsw '94 jzz30 gttl, 2 mini's one supercharged
Posts: 3236 Reg: 08-2005
| Hell yeah man interesting to see how she performs now mate |
Aiden Cheese
Goo Roo QLD Soarer jzz30
Posts: 1109 Reg: 09-2009
| So with that in mind, what's your power to weight ratio? |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
Posts: 3157 Reg: 04-2006
| I dunno. 240rwkw:1400kg, LOL. What's that, about 170rwkw per tonne? I have a weighbridge at a local nursery, and will get down there and weigh it again to get an idea of its current weight. At some stage. |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
Posts: 3161 Reg: 04-2006
| I have just entered a private track day at Mallala on 5th April. It is more like the format of the Circuit Club days I used to attend back in NSW. 15 minute sessions with 8 cars in a group. SHould be just what I need to work out any bugs with the front bar, test the new brake pads Intima have supplied, and work up to a new lap time with the new tune. Now I have a date to work to I might pull my finger out and get these doors done. |
Aaron Casey
Goo Roo nsw '94 jzz30 gttl, 2 mini's one supercharged
Posts: 3242 Reg: 08-2005
| Awesome mate! Still trying to figure out what can do with your email mate i may ask my uncle he has alot of room at his place and its fairly out of the way. Got a question. Im on my phone and net is very slow so cant read your entire thread. Im running my battery line on the side of my trans tunnel would you recommend using insulated screw in insulated brackets? |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
Posts: 3163 Reg: 04-2006
| Replied to your text. You're in my phone now... I did indeed get out and start on a third drivers door. I cut the skeleton out of the second misshapen door and have reused it in what I hope is a much better shaped mould. I will do the reinforcing bar tomorrow and then crack it some time next week. In the meantime I have been filling and sanding the passenger door ready for a coat of paint. I should have that one on the car permanently by the end of the week depending on weather and work. I really need a bigger compressor to suit spray painting, like 12 cfm FAD (free air delivery). My compressor has about 6 cfm free air delivery. I wonder if I buy another second hand compressor and Tee two of them together will that be enough airflow. There are tons of second hand 6-8cfm compressors for sale at cheap prices. |
Phil Gibson
Goo Roo WA '91 UZZ30, '91 manual UZZ31 track bunky, '94 blk/blk UZZ31
Posts: 1971 Reg: 07-2005
| Some interesting findings from my old man today - he has been too busy with work to finish off my fibreglass bonnet, however as i have a spare factory one which we were using to make a mold, we decided to see how much weight could come out by removing the underbonnet spars and reinforcing Orginal bonnet weight (minus struts, mounts and insulation) - 26.2kg Bonnet weight with reinforcing removed - 15kg! That is a huge saving! The bonnet is obviously less rigid now but is fine for a track car thanks to Toyota using fairly thick steel for the body on these cars. Given our first fibreglass test bonnet came out at around 12kg (and off-the-shelf bonnets from the likes of Seibon are heavier than this) we are not even going to pursue a f/g one any further. I am going to look at the bonnet after work today and will take some pics |
Dan McColl
Goo Roo Victoria (The Nazi State) Pretty Red Thing and The Black Rattler
Posts: 3314 Reg: 07-2005
| I keep forgetting your airbox, Ben, I'll try to get it away next week. Sorry for the delay. I wouldn't stress about the HKS pod, though. I've been running one for years and my turbo is fine. I do try to avoid driving through deep sand, though. |
Blake Gloyn
DieHard manawatu soarer JZZ30 TT
Posts: 723 Reg: 02-2006
| good info Phil, bring on the pictures of the 'gutted' bonnet |
Aaron Casey
Goo Roo nsw '94 jzz30 gttl, 2 mini's one supercharged
Posts: 3245 Reg: 08-2005
| Yes id be very interested too haha i was actually thinking yesterday cutting the support bracing and glassing a bonnet vent into it |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
Posts: 3166 Reg: 04-2006
|
Dan McColl wrote on Friday, March 09, 2012 - 04:16 pm: I do try to avoid driving through deep sand, though.
I try to avoid it too, but you know... Don't worry about it Dan. I ended up finding one local. It has a K&N filter in it, but it is kinda manky. I have gone and cut all the baffles out of the rear, and also given it the BFI opening. I'll clean up the filter and see what it is like, but I am still leaning towards buying a new one from Toyota. As for the bonnet, I cut some of the reinforcement out to fit my fibreglass vent. I never thought to weigh it. Andrew's fibreglass bonnet is only 9kg from memory, and it is bloody great quality. You could easily pass it off as an original Toyota item. The V8 supercars use a gutted steel bonnet, I believe. I know I keep harping on about the V8s, but they are a sedan based race car so it is relevant. I have now completed the passenger door, but after my third attempt the drivers door still has fitment. Tonight I am separating the inner from the outer, making the inner fit, and then I am going to bond them back together using Sika marine grade fibreglass adhesive. I am fed up with the driver door. LOL I have paid up to go to a private test day on the 5th of April, so I need to get the car together, do a new alignment, and generally prep the car for a thrashing. |
Paul Kalie
Tinkerer NSW TT
Posts: 99 Reg: 02-2008
| Mate after laying up my fibreglass Dash mold today I now have an understanding be it little of how interesting a door mold must be. Knowing you Im confident that you will get it sorted in the end, Cant wait to see how your track day goes next month and yes we all want incar footage.
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Blake Gloyn
DieHard manawatu soarer JZZ30 TT
Posts: 725 Reg: 02-2006
| just weighed a 1jzgte crankshaft- 24kg!!! |
Dan McColl
Goo Roo Victoria (The Nazi State) Pretty Red Thing and The Black Rattler
Posts: 3316 Reg: 07-2005
| No worries. Let me know if you ever need it, It'll just be sitting on the shelf with your address label on it. |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
Posts: 3169 Reg: 04-2006
| Both front doors are done! What a drama to get the drivers one good enough to use. First the bad news- with all the handles, factory door catch, lexan windows, mirror, steel brackets to mate to factory hinge, bog, paint etc the door comes to 9.9kg. To compare the door that came off my car (so stripped down bare but still with side intrusion and window mech with lexan window) weighed 29.9kg. That is still a saving of 20kg. The passenger door that had no window mech or side intrusion weighed 22kg. The good news is they open and shut using the factory hinge and hardware, and shut firm enough against the body seals that they might survive life on the track. (only testing will tell, LOL) Pictures will follow. Seems to be an issue uploading at the moment (have waited 20 minutes but computer still says it is "waiting for soarercentral") |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
Posts: 3170 Reg: 04-2006
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Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
Posts: 3171 Reg: 04-2006
| Car has nice new edge 10w60 in it, and a complete brake fluid flush. I have checked the alignment and it all looks OK. I had some weird toe readings but then realised I did not have the strut tower brace fitted. Toe returned to normal after it was fitted, further supporting my belief the front of these cars is a little soft. I am leaving the intima SR6300 pads in there as they look brand new. I might take the Intima Type D pads and swap them at the track for a back to back comparison. The specs for each are below: SR-6300 Heat Range: Effective Braking 50°c - 700°c Average µ: 0.4~0.5 Type D Heat Range: Effective Braking 250°c - <850°c Average µ: 0.45~0.6 The Type D should have better braking, and have a 150 deg higher heat range, but they will be crap until up to temp. They might be OK for supersprints and the longer lapsprint sessions, but may be no good for time attack one lap dashes. As Andrew pointed out, I don't even really know how hot the rotors are getting as I cant measure until after the cool down lap. Might look into that brake rotor paint. |
Phil Gibson
Goo Roo WA '91 UZZ30, '91 manual UZZ31 track bunky, '94 blk/blk UZZ31
Posts: 1977 Reg: 07-2005
| Good job Ben, a 32kg reduction is not to be sneezed at! |
Aaron Casey
Goo Roo nsw '94 jzz30 gttl, 2 mini's one supercharged
Posts: 3254 Reg: 08-2005
| Them doors dont look too bad man and that weight saving should help alot. Almost half a person you dont have to drive around haha |
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