Friday, March 29, 2013 - 05:20 pm, by: Ben Lipman(Ben12a)
OK, so using 16x7 as the factory size, and and simply comparing the two wheels disregarding track width: rear track is 40mm wider with the new rims, and front track will be 44mm wider with the rims and using the spacers.
If factory track is 1520mm, then the new track will be 1564mm front, 1560mm rear.
Friday, March 29, 2013 - 07:14 pm, by: Andrew McKellar(Toymax)
Found in the same place:
Width The width of the vehicle. Devices like door handles, mirrors and lights usually are not included in the calculation of the width. The width is measured with doors and windows closed and the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
1806.00 mm 71.1024 in 5.9252 ft
Mine measures just over 1910mm at the mid-point of the rear guards, outside to outside.
So 50mm wider each side.
BUT, I have another reference that says the car is 1790mm wide. That would make it 60mm wider each side.
Thursday, April 04, 2013 - 04:27 pm, by: Ben Lipman(Ben12a)
Cheers Spencer.
I have found there is a large variation between tyre brands and models too. For example the r888 have a very round edge, therefore the sidewall seems to bulge a bit wider to achieve the same tread width. I had identical rims with both 255/50 r888 and dunlop sp2000 sports . R888 were much wider than the same spec dunlop.
To answer your question, 255 fronts and 275 rears pending availability. 275 in a 17 is not a common size.
I will wait to see the spacer and then mount the rim and check clearance. The guards will be modified based on this. Better to have too much clearance than not enough. Aero wise, I want the wheel shielded from the airflow as much as possible.
Ben Lipman Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell
Tuesday, April 09, 2013 - 07:46 am, by: Ben Lipman(Ben12a)
Finally posted up the video of the 2011 motorkhana seeing as I am next to some proper internet. Better be quick as I used a Guns n Roses song so it will probably need to be pulled down and audio swapped.
Tuesday, April 09, 2013 - 11:43 am, by: Ben Lipman(Ben12a)
Spacers arrived and a test fit shows the rims now clear the brakes. The front wheels now look about the same as the rears as far as protrusion from the guards is concerned.
In a couple of months I'll buy tyres and then make a decision on how to deal with it. Got a couple of composite fabrication text books to read and a few things to buy between now and the next phase of the build. I am thinking of taking a month off work to get stuck into the car.
Tuesday, April 09, 2013 - 09:20 pm, by: Clayton Carlyle(Clayton)
Wow, a month off work for the race car. If only my girlfriend was that understanding. Got any pics of the front rims on the car? The stance of a Soarer looks so much better with wider front rims.
Ben Lipman Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell
Friday, April 12, 2013 - 02:12 am, by: Ben Lipman(Ben12a)
Yeah, I reckon it was close. I dont think it fell over though. That was a series of runs spliced together. I only have one gopro. I was hoping with the hero 3 coming out that there would be heaps of the hero 2s for sale cheap. Damn things have held their value too well.
Ben Lipman Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell
Saturday, April 27, 2013 - 11:59 pm, by: Ben Lipman(Ben12a)
So I have been working on some ideas for some custom wide body guards for the car. The first sketches are of the guards, mainly focussed on the front:
The next few are ideas specifically for the rear in isolation:
Happy to hear your thoughts.
When I next get the chance, the spare shell is not gonna know what hit it. I will cut out steel that is in the way for what I want to do so I can see what I have to work with.
The current side skirts are a cut and shut job on what I think was originally a Vertex copy kit. I want to do a clean sheet design sculpted on the spare shell and then take moulds from that.
The plan is to do a lot of the design and prep work over the winter ready for some big glass and carbon layups when the weather gets a bit warmer. I am trying to talk myself into getting setup for vacuum infusion. I realise I will waste some carbon and resin learning the technique, but from all I have read it is the best of the low cost (relative) composite construction methods.
Sunday, April 28, 2013 - 12:22 pm, by: Aaron Casey(Blownminiturbo)
Alot of work there!! If you are interested on ebay there is the moulds for sale for the widebody bn kit for 800. If i had more money i would get them and sell a couple to pay for the moulds.
Sunday, April 28, 2013 - 05:41 pm, by: Andrew McKellar(Toymax)
I have my hands on molds for this now:
One piece front, one piece rear (bonnet still separate). Could probably make you some light-weight parts, then you can stick them on, modify them to suit what you want, then make new molds for yourself. Or there's still my WBK for you to play with.
I don't much like the DTM open style.
Ben Lipman Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell
Monday, April 29, 2013 - 01:46 am, by: Ben Lipman(Ben12a)
Aaron Casey wrote on Sunday, April 28, 2013 - 12:22 pm:
Alot of work there
I like work. Keps me out of trouble. I hate most TV see.
Andrew- I am buying 100m of carbon fibre twill, so I am keen to make the parts at my place. I am not even sure I need a wide body as I haven't got tyres on it yet, nor seen it sitting on the ground with the new rims. If I can get away with flaring the guards, I will. If I do need a wide body, it will be a purely functional aero piece of design, within the limitations of not having access to wind tunnel or CFD time. What it looks like will be secondary.
I agree the DTM style rear wheel arches look nasty. DTM teams used them until DTM banned them, probably because the cars looked horrible. That is the only reason that style has made it onto the sketch pad. That and the fact the fastest time attack car on the planet uses them, as designed by the most well known aero designer in the time attack scene (Andrew Brilliant- or Gixxer Drew as he used to be known on the net)
The front end is where my focus is at really- the air is so sh!tty at the back of the car you really just want to get rid of it as best you can, and stick a bloody big wing up high to make the downforce. Like most of my designs, once the plaster hits the body it will no doubt change more than once.
I am keen to see those moulds and such though. Just need to find my way to Sydney. Might be moving at the end of the year. Time to find a new track...
Wednesday, May 01, 2013 - 04:59 am, by: Paul Kalie(Ajzs)
Looks good mate, Cant argue with with Cybers or Nemo's Aero packages. Watching the NEMO EVO's incar videos of turn 1 at Eastern creek the engine note doesnt change without any application of the brakes. one side effect was the increase in Drag with Nemo only having a top speed of 240kph with other cars hitting 280 - 290kph.
Ben Lipman Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell
Friday, May 03, 2013 - 12:43 pm, by: Ben Lipman(Ben12a)
CHeers Paul.
Been shopping around for semis to fit the 17x9 and 17x10 rims. I have literally checked every tyre on the CAMS production tyre list.
Seems a lot of manufacturers don't make a semi to suit, or the biggest is 255/40/17. Kumho, Toyo, and Nitto do. I am looking at ordering a set of the R888 in 255/40 and 275/40 from tire rack as they are about 30% cheaper even after $400 in shipping.
SOme companies are asking ridiculous prices- $600 for a single tyre...
Tempted to try the Kumho V70A semis, but quite a lot of people online have said they just don't last. Hearing this, I think they may not suit the bug heavy Soarer, so R888 it is. They are pretty cheap though, especially for actually buying in Australia.
Ben Lipman Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell