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Michael McKellar
TryHard
NSW
Mini

Posts: 116
Reg: 08-2008

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Friday, September 06, 2013 - 08:20 pm, by:  Michael McKellar (Mickmini) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Ben Lipman wrote on Thursday, September 05, 2013 - 10:15 pm:

By houso I was referring to not paying top dollar




hence the cardboard box

don't get much cheaper than that.

How bid a box does a 12m yacht keel need?
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell

Posts: 3512
Reg: 04-2006

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Sunday, September 08, 2013 - 08:16 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Kim and I did the other guard on Friday night. Turned out pretty good too. The surface was not as glossy as the first one (less coats of wax???) but the edges were all a lot sharper and nicer.

Did my 'houso infusion' last night. I even used cheap double sided tape from spotlight instead of the tacky tape. Initially I used some green mesh from spotlight as the infusion mesh...very slow and ran out of steam half way. Then tried heavy duty 'pet mesh' from bunnings. Worked a treat. I also tried just sticking tubes through the plastic instead of silicone connectors. Worked a treat too.

I now am thinking of making a bodgy vac pump setup from an old fridge. Something with a pressure switch on it so it kicks in whenever the pressure get close to zero. Will keep my eyes open for an old fridge on gumtree.
Aaron Casey
Goo Roo
NSW
'94 2jz JZZ30 gttl, '93 UZZ31 track, VT, 2x Leyland Mini's

Posts: 3647
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Sunday, September 08, 2013 - 08:49 pm, by:  Aaron Casey (Blownminiturbo) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Awesome!now you have it all going well be interesting to see what you will reproduce in carbon next :-)
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell

Posts: 3513
Reg: 04-2006

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Sunday, September 08, 2013 - 09:00 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Bonnet I think. Then the roof. I want to do the boot because the mould would be bloody easy. But I need to lose weight at the front more, and Andrew has a perfectly good mould for a boot, LOL.

Right now, I have two weeks until I run the car, so I am looking at getting it ready for that and only doing what absolutely needs doing. That is: front guards, rear fences, set up the dash, alignment, all the oils (it has been nearly two years) etc.
Andrew McKellar
DieHard
NSW
V8 Soarer Sports Sedan

Posts: 680
Reg: 06-2008

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Tuesday, September 10, 2013 - 05:22 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

OK, I'll bring the molds for boot and bonnet over. I don't have the outer skin for the boot lid though, only the inner skeleton mold. Might be something I can pay you to make - I have the original boot lid. Both inside and outside of the bonnet are good. Expect to be over the week of 20th October. PM me with what suburb you live, it will help decide accommodation (I have a cousin over there).

Does your front bar work with the wide body kit?
Aaron Casey
Goo Roo
NSW
'94 2jz JZZ30 gttl, '93 UZZ31 track, VT, 2x Leyland Mini's

Posts: 3648
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Tuesday, September 10, 2013 - 06:08 pm, by:  Aaron Casey (Blownminiturbo) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Andrew, gary was using a stock vertex front on his widebody after they broke the bumper and couldnt get a replacement locally. It does work you just have to pull it out at the edges a little where matches up with guards.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell

Posts: 3514
Reg: 04-2006

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Tuesday, September 10, 2013 - 07:33 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

My front bar works OK with the widebody guards I have. I had a little panic that I hadn't thought of it, but it goes on fine. Aesthetically the guard 'diverges' from the bumper as it gets wider, but lines up fine as far as bolting up goes.

I thought you had a boot outer skin? Ill make one, because it would be a dead simple mould. The flanging should be the most straight forwards I have done.

I was planning on making a bonnet mould with my vent in it, but for the sake of time, I could reproduce a stock bonnet from your mould, and then fit a vent to it later. Won't be as pretty, but well...

I was looking at the bar moulds the other day. I was like "Hmmm, a little bit of a wet sand and some polishing work and I could make myself a wet layup carbon front bar." Then I remembered I still need to do a complete alignment from scratch using string lines and a pendulum, program my dash, set up the data logging, buy fuel jerries and fill them with e85, change oils, completely bleed brakes, etc in the next 10 days, working 8 of them.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell

Posts: 3515
Reg: 04-2006

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Tuesday, September 10, 2013 - 07:33 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Oh, and we have a spare bedroom.
Paul Kalie
TryHard
NSW
TT

Posts: 137
Reg: 02-2008

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Tuesday, September 10, 2013 - 08:16 pm, by:  Paul Kalie (Ajzs) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Andrew use bens spare room as we did. Plus his alcohol taste good too :-)
Andrew McKellar
DieHard
NSW
V8 Soarer Sports Sedan

Posts: 681
Reg: 06-2008

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Tuesday, September 10, 2013 - 08:30 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The front bar should work OK with mine if it does yours Ben, so when you are ready just knock up a couple of those carbon ones. You are working 8 days, but not for 24 hours on each of them. Lazy, lazy.

My boot outer skin was "borrowed" from someone, and I didn't like it or his mold as it didn't have "rolled" edges like our bonnet one does. Because we already had the outer skin, we only made the mold for the inner skeleton as that was the only part we needed to make at the time. With what I am planning regarding body work in the future, I will have need for new boot lids, but not bonnets. So you can have the molds for the bonnet if you want them. I know you'd put them to good use. Or just borrow them and I'll store them after or get rid of them.

And the bonnet molds have big flanges. Easy for sealing up that vacuum bag...


Paul Kalie wrote on Tuesday, September 10, 2013 - 08:16 pm:

Plus his alcohol taste good too


I suspect it will do Paul, as I am supplying it.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell

Posts: 3516
Reg: 04-2006

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Tuesday, September 10, 2013 - 10:38 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Define 'rolled edges'? Is that where the shiny face rolls over the edge, so you end up with a little lip underneath? The trimmed edge would face down in the case of the boot panel.

The other option being: the shiny surface continuing flat to the edge of the panel and then is trimmed so you have a cut edge? The trimmed edge would face the sides etc on the boot.

If my definition is correct, rolled edges should not be too hard to set up. Block you flange forms away from the panel with a couple of mm of plasticine etc and shape to a uniform radius so that it is reproduced in the mould. As long as your laminate is not too thick it should conform to a reasonably small radius.
Andrew McKellar
DieHard
NSW
V8 Soarer Sports Sedan

Posts: 682
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Wednesday, September 11, 2013 - 09:35 am, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Ben Lipman wrote on Tuesday, September 10, 2013 - 10:38 pm:

Is that where the shiny face rolls over the edge, so you end up with a little lip underneath? The trimmed edge would face down in the case of the boot panel.


Yep, this one.

Ben Lipman wrote on Tuesday, September 10, 2013 - 10:38 pm:

Block you flange forms away from the panel with a couple of mm of plasticine etc and shape to a uniform radius so that it is reproduced in the mould


Won't work on his mold. It's edges are trimmed right at the edge of the boot. No flanges on it. That's why I kept the boot lid to make a better mold.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell

Posts: 3520
Reg: 04-2006

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Sunday, September 15, 2013 - 08:42 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Car is nearly ready to run. I clear coated the carbon guards, but am really unhappy with how they turned out. They will get a rub back and a try again when I find the time.

I cut up the exhaust and it now runs closer to the diffuser, making room behind the rear wheels. I Made some vertical fences from my houso vac infusion experiment, and they are now mounted either side of the diffuser to keep the dirty air from the rear wheels away from the diffuser. Whilst under there I tidied up the front of the diffuser, which had got a bit mangled over time.

I desperately want to do a full flat floor, but will watch the rules of the lapsprint/time attack to see if this is worth doing. For some reason it is OK to spend $10,000 - $15,000 on a gearbox in clubsprint, but if you spend $100 on a fibreglass flat floor you have to run in open class...?

This week I am fabbing up some simple mounts for the side of the front bar. It used to be secured to the steel guards, but I don't want to do that again. A small steel subframe will have the Dzus fastener, and I am thinking of having the dzus pass through some steel plate so the load is spread over a large area.

Engine oil and brake fluid have been drained and refilled with fresh fluids, the remainder have been checked and topped up where necessary.

Alignment is done. Decided to go with a conservative setup, 2.5 deg neg camber and 0.5mm toe out up front, and 1 deg neg camber and 0.5mm toe in at the rear.

Still haven't completely figured out the dash and data logging, but I'll keep at it. Truth is, sitting in the car with a lap top is one of the last things I feel like doing...
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell

Posts: 3524
Reg: 04-2006

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Tuesday, September 17, 2013 - 09:38 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Pic of the houso infusion setup below.

Upload

And here is the finished front bar supports. I'll acknowledge they are ugly as sin, if you acknowledge at this stage I no longer care. Yes they need a coat of primer and paint to prevent rust. Some other night.

Upload
Paul Kalie
TryHard
NSW
TT

Posts: 138
Reg: 02-2008

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Tuesday, September 17, 2013 - 11:02 pm, by:  Paul Kalie (Ajzs) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I see youve added some Metal as well, feels wrong doesnt it.....
Aaron Casey
Goo Roo
NSW
'94 2jz JZZ30 gttl, '93 UZZ31 track, VT, 2x Leyland Mini's

Posts: 3652
Reg: 08-2005

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Wednesday, September 18, 2013 - 09:45 am, by:  Aaron Casey (Blownminiturbo) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I was thinking of dzus locks for front bumper and sideskirts.. but was wondering how much weight they can take as front bumper will be pulling down with the splitter. And skirts would probably get munched hard by sand trap would it just break the spring lol
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell

Posts: 3525
Reg: 04-2006

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Wednesday, September 18, 2013 - 07:08 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have run the car with only four Dzus fasteners holding it onto the car. Two that pass through a steel mount, and two the fixed to original steel guards. It stayed in place at 200kph, but the front diffuser section was being sucked down to the road.

Since then, I added a small subframe under the car that supports the rear of the splitter/undertray and diffusers. That solved the sagging issue. This week I made the small steel mounts either side for the other two dzus fasteners to pass through, so the entire front bumper assembly is supported by the cars frame. Hanging the bar off the sheet metal as always a temporary thing that was allowed to exist longer than it should have.

I never though of hanging the side skirts with Dzus fasteners. Would make it easy to work on the car as I always seem the cath the skirts with the jack or a stand etc. Of course, if I had air jacks...



Oh, and not as much as you Paul. Man up and go full carbon, LOL. Mazda went to all that effort to make Rx-7s light and easy to tow (in between engine changes) and you go and add steel to it.
Aaron Casey
Goo Roo
NSW
'94 2jz JZZ30 gttl, '93 UZZ31 track, VT, 2x Leyland Mini's

Posts: 3653
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Wednesday, September 18, 2013 - 09:48 pm, by:  Aaron Casey (Blownminiturbo) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ah k fair enough then. If your setup hasnt really had any issues i might look into it myself. Yeah I actually thought of the sideskirts first as blue car is always a pain in the butt to jack up due to the sideskirts. i dont like the look of the camlocks all over a car and the two pop riveted sections with the thick rubber band looks dodgy and would be a pain to use always losing bands and such..
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell

Posts: 3526
Reg: 04-2006

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Saturday, September 21, 2013 - 09:05 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Car is ready to run. Bit of a clean up and a very gentle drive down the street today to check nothing was going to fall off.

Still struggling with the dash setup. Managed to wipe what channels were presented on the dash messing around and had to figure out how to get them back. This from a man who has never got around to figuring out how to work my GoPro camera properly.



Upload

Upload

Upload

Upload
Peter Nitschke
Junk Filterer
South Australia
UZZ30 UZZ31

Posts: 12548
Reg: 11-2004

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Wednesday, September 25, 2013 - 02:14 am, by:  Peter Nitschke (Pen) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Any idea what it currently weighs?
Ray Austin
TryHard
Qld
Soarer GT-TL

Posts: 183
Reg: 11-2011

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Wednesday, September 25, 2013 - 07:38 am, by:  Ray Austin (Rayala) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

That's looking fantastic Ben
Gary Morriss
DieHard
SA
TT

Posts: 827
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, September 26, 2013 - 10:02 am, by:  Gary Morriss (Gaza) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

That looks the Biz Ben,
Paul Kalie
TryHard
NSW
TT

Posts: 139
Reg: 02-2008

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Thursday, September 26, 2013 - 08:21 pm, by:  Paul Kalie (Ajzs) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Don't think Ben's had the time to get it weighed since doing the rear 1/4 or carbon front guards. Looking forward to hearing the results after it hits the track this weekend :-)
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell

Posts: 3527
Reg: 04-2006

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Friday, September 27, 2013 - 05:10 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Cheers fellas. Just back in from a week away. About to head out to the shed and load it up onto the trailer for tomorrow. Weather does not look good, unfortunately.

The local garden shop weighbridge says it weighs 1.38tonnes. I am dubious, as this is what it weighed several years ago, just after the cage install.

Have been told that Pedders can do corner weights, but have not looked into it.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell

Posts: 3530
Reg: 04-2006

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Wednesday, October 02, 2013 - 07:24 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Went out to Mallala as planned. As expected, it rained. The first session was dry, but I had none of the lap timing gear sorted out. You don't realise how out of touch you can get when you don't do something for a while. Any way there was a bit of a vibration in the front of the car at speeds around 140 plus kph. Spectators let me know it was the splitter hitting the ground.

It was raining for the next two sessions, but I managed to get the laptiming on the racechrono sorted, as well as the RacePak. Couldnot for the life of me get the gear ratio input done, meaning the dash stayed in gear 1 regardless of what the car was doing. Frustrating.

My best lap in the rain was 1:26.2 which seemed to spark some interest. A spectator hand timed one of the dry laps and claims it was a 1:18. I would be bloody stoked if I could believe it.

The front splitter was flapping so badly by session three the marshals grabbed me in the pits to let me know about it. It was pretty bad in the car so I called it quits- and then discovered one of the front bar mounts had broke clean off! I was standing on that two weeks ago bouncing to settle the suspension. Must have been some significant forces going through it to break it. It has been fully seam welded back onto the chassis.

I am trying to sort out the front bar and splitter. The gel coat has all cracked, and it is a bit floppy. I am trying a combination of aluminium rails in the splitter section and filling the splitter with polyurethane expanding foam. The good news with the rain is it is the perfect conditions for the PU foam to expand and set. I don't hold much hope, but if it works (and by work I mean I can stand on it!) I will leave it alone. If it doesn't work, I guess I will look at making one from carbon with more reinforcing built in.

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