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Tai Johnsen
Goo Roo QLD JZZ30 Pov Manual LSD & black!
Posts: 1650 Reg: 04-2006
| I think for the price of a GE 2J it would make sense.. the extra displacement would mean you could run less boost for the same HP and gain reliability.. |
Clayton Carlyle
TryHard NSW v8 soarer twin turbo
Posts: 381 Reg: 04-2009
| What Tai said! The 1j revs way harder than a 2j & strains the engine a lot more. 2j all the way. Much cheaper, newer,more around & more power. There is zero benefit getting another 1jz apart from it being a true Soarer haha. The autobahn Soarer is a 1.5jz |
Andrew McKellar
DieHard NSW V8 Soarer Sports Sedan
Posts: 867 Reg: 06-2008
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Ben Lipman wrote on Monday, May 02, 2016 - 04:41 pm:Andrew McKellar wrote on Monday, May 02, 2016 - 01:52 pm: How many engines would you have to buy/replace before it becomes a better long term investment to dry sump it? 4 or 5.
So you're halfway there then. Glad to see Clayton is still with us too, considering he won't return my text messages |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell
Posts: 4028 Reg: 04-2006
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Andrew McKellar wrote on Monday, May 02, 2016 - 06:12 pm:So you're halfway there then.
I can end this conversation right here. I do not have $6000+ to dry sump a $1000 motor. I thought the Autobahn Soarer has been 2J for a while. Could be wrong, as info does not flow too freely on that car. I want to get a 1J back in the car so I can keep it running. I am looking at a 2JZGTE bottom end though, to build something with all the 1J heads I have lying around. I am also wondering if it is worth taking the crank(s) for an expert to look at and see if they are usable (after some machining etc) so I can build a complete engine out of the two busted ones. |
Spencer Cameron
TryHard NSW JZZ30
Posts: 335 Reg: 04-2008
| Apparently the only difference between 2JZGTE and 2JZGE is the oil squirters. If thats true it might be worth having a look at one of your engines to see how hard the squirters are to add. After all, those GE blocks should be a hell of a lot cheaper than both the 1 and 2JZGTE's. |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell
Posts: 4029 Reg: 04-2006
| I have read a few different versions of this regarding the difference between GE and GTE. My understanding, based on some searching, is: a. Pistons are different, but rods and cranks are the same. b. Blocks are the same, but GTE has the galleries drilled for the oil squirters. c. due to the piston shapes, compression ratios are different. I had a good read of Costa's thread on the 1.5JZ, although he used a GE block. I'll have to find someone who did it with GTE block and see what they have to say as well. |
Tai Johnsen
Goo Roo QLD JZZ30 Pov Manual LSD & black!
Posts: 1651 Reg: 04-2006
| As far as I know Ben, all of that info is correct as well as head gasket thicknesses and the oil pump not having a hole for the crank reluctor pick-up. There is a GE bottom 1.5J in my driveway and while I haven't driven a GTE bottom 1.5J all I can say is the off boost performance is completely different to the 1J. The extra CR from the GE bottom makes it feel way lighter, so the only negatives I can see is that you have to run a longer oil line for your feed (or do some crazy drilling) and no oil squirters. The car runs 19 PSI and 500rwhp. I'm not sure if the extra money required for a GTE bottom end would be worth it for a street car, but oil squirters might be a good thing for sustained power that a track car needs.. |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell
Posts: 4030 Reg: 04-2006
| I have managed to grab a 1JZ locally here in Canberra. I have been looking into building a 1.5JZ but want to use a GTE bottom end. Unfortunately the Fast and Furious Tax has made the 2 Jay Zee no too expensive an option right now. (I almost bought a BRAND NEW 2012 delivered Toyota built 2JZGTE short block for $2000 three years ago. Guys these days want $1300 for a 20 year old 2JZ GTE bare block, or $1500 for a heat damaged, blown head gasket bottom end.) The replacement motor was compression tested as best I could on the engine stand. The starter motor was bolted to the bell housing, and I ran power to the starter motor using jumper cables. Unfortunately, the cables could not supply enough current, so I made some new jumper leads up using 0 gauge cable and new clamps. I also wired in a small lead to throw out the starter gear. This worked a treat, and I got readings of about 150 across all cylinders, and a leak down result of about 20% across the cylinders. The gauge may be dodgy, but importantly the results are consistent.
Cylinder | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | Comp (cold) | 150 | 150 | 150 | 150 | 155 | 155 | Leak Down % | 20 | 20 | 20 | 22 | 15 | 15 | | I have purchased a baffle kit and windage tray from Bexo Motors, and he has also given me some other ideas to better control oil in the JZ series of motors such as extending the oil drains. The motor was cleaned up, and the oil control measures implemented, and the whole lot sealed up.
I took the opportunity to clean up the motor, and found an old can of brake caliper paint to paint the cam covers. Unfortunately the spray can sprung a leak as I was shaking it, so I did what anyone would do, and painted the covers with the leaking can. Loads of fun, and a lot of overspray. The idea of several light coats was abandoned as the can dumped its contents on the covers in one messy fit.
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Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell
Posts: 4031 Reg: 04-2006
| third photo should have been this one...
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Tai Johnsen
Goo Roo QLD JZZ30 Pov Manual LSD & black!
Posts: 1656 Reg: 04-2006
| Great work |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell
Posts: 4035 Reg: 04-2006
| The activity on Andrew and Aaron's thread has reminded me I have not updated mine. The new oil controls in the junker engine seem to be doing the job. I have been back to Wakefield Park and completed six sessions, 60 'hot' laps with no engine failure. The new donk blows a little blue smoke on deceleration, but a very quick scan of the data shows peak speed to be 1km faster down the main straight on average than the old engine. I guess that means the engine is OK, or I was driving off turn 10 better today. I felt the track was lacking grip as it had been non stop rain for the preceding two weeks, and the infield was a swamp. My lap times were about a second to a second and half slower overall than last time out. (when the good engine spun a bearing). The only issue I had all day was the engine getting hot in the pits. It runs as cool as normal on the track, but when left running in the pits the temp starts to rise. I have flushed and reflushed the cooling system hoping to improve this area. A lot of junk came out. This is the problem buying unknown quality engines I guess. If it continues, I will start pulling thermostats and water pumps and swapping them with new items. For those interested, the accusump has taken my refill oil capacity out to about 8L. So if nothing else, there is a lot more oil to share the thermal loading. Since then I have pulled more weight out of the front end, by removing the ABS unit. Before people get all excited, the ABS has not worked in at least 5 years and has been dead weight. I replaced the master with a non ABS 3 port one, and used a combination of pov pack non ABS hard lines and modifying the original ones to plumb up the brakes. This week I have been playing with the Racepak dash. I raised the shift lights from 6000rpm (1st gear, 6500 for the rest) to 6750 seeing as I regularly run the motor up there. The engine still pulls well up to around 6700 - 7000rpm. even with peak torque back at 4700rpm. I have also manually inputted all the gear, diff and tyre ratios in hoping to get the gear position indicator working. Having a H pattern box, I don't really need it working, but it annoys me that it doesn't. I am still hunting an 18x10 or 10.5 wheel package to replace the Desmond Regamasters. Semi slicks are getting difficult to find in 275 width on a 17 inch rim. My problem as always is cash. I used up all the budget for 2016 getting to Vic Time Attack. |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell
Posts: 4036 Reg: 04-2006
| Update time. The clunker engine is still going strong. I took the car to Winton for the first time last month. I only managed a 1:36.1 time, which is nearly 3 seconds a lap slower than the optimal time for the car. It seems I am the sort of driver who needs a lot of time to learn a new track. Car performed well, except for the small issue of a loss of boost in the 5th session. After getting the car home I realised I had broken the waste gate actuator rod on the rear turbo. Quite a strange failure, but it put a stop to the day. The rod was essentially the last stock component on the turbos and it appears to have not been up to the task.
I repaired the rod by cutting off the damaged section, cutting a thread into it and winding on an adjustable rod end from GCG. Whilst I was down at Winton I found a set of old school Enkei Racing Line RC5 hollow spoke wheels in 18x9 and 18x10 with a 42 offset. They were nice and cheap, so I organised for them to be freighted up. White wheels are no my thing, so I set about painting them bronze. I have just ordered some Kumho V70A semi slicks to go on them, and plan to head back to Wakefield Park on October 3.
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Peter Nitschke
Junk Filterer South Australia UZZ30 UZZ31
Posts: 12873 Reg: 11-2004
| Is there much weight saving with the new wheels? |
Roland Elliott
TryHard New South Wales uzz32 1uz-fe
Posts: 211 Reg: 08-2014
| The rod end will fix the issue. great work , keep it going. |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell
Posts: 4037 Reg: 04-2006
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Peter Nitschke wrote on Wednesday, September 07, 2016 - 05:42 pm:Is there much weight saving with the new wheels?
Unfortunately there is none. I bought these based off a description on Gumtree, and took a gamble for the price. They are 9.6 and 10.4kg each, which is light, but not racecar light. The driving force for buying the wheels is actually tyres. It is getting harder and harder to find 275 width tyres in 17 inch sizes.
Roland Elliott wrote on Wednesday, September 07, 2016 - 11:53 pm:he rod end will fix the issue. great work , keep it going.
It turned out to really be the only option as the rods don't come out of the can with out cutting the can open. This way the rear rod is adjustable like the front one, meaning I can adjust the preload or lack there of. |
Tai Johnsen
Goo Roo QLD JZZ30 Pov Manual LSD & black!
Posts: 1680 Reg: 04-2006
| I'm not sure if they are more track or drag oriented, but the Nitto Nt05's come in 275 17's and hold power well, and the INVO's are meant to be great steer tires. Pretty cheap too. I also bought a GTE 2J bottom long block |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell
Posts: 4038 Reg: 04-2006
| The NT05 are a drag style tyre. The Nitto NT01 is their circuit semi slick. I have them on the car now, because even though they are not a great semi slick, they are cheap and easy to get from StGeorge tyres on line. I plan to run the NT01 on the desmonds and the Kumho V70A on the enkeis back to back to see the time difference (if any). I'll give you half a box of celebrations chocolates for the 2J bottom end, LOL. The longer you take to answer, the less chocolates left in the box. |
Tai Johnsen
Goo Roo QLD JZZ30 Pov Manual LSD & black!
Posts: 1682 Reg: 04-2006
| re: chocolates! I'll have to pass on that offer But when I do the swap at least there will be another 1J block for you |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell
Posts: 4039 Reg: 04-2006
| Probably for the best. I would probably eat all the chocolates and then get a bad reputation for reneging on the deal. Lew has kindly donated a crank so I can put the good motor back together, so now I have a spare. The problem is the smoky junker is actually making better speed down the main straight, meaning it is making the same or more power as the good motor. New Kumho V70A semi slicks are sitting at my door. I am looking forward to trying the new tyre out next month. Just need to finish putting the turbo piping back in and organise getting the tyres onto the rims. |
Tai Johnsen
Goo Roo QLD JZZ30 Pov Manual LSD & black!
Posts: 1684 Reg: 04-2006
| Haha, the junk motor is a beast! All these years later and Lew is still a champ It will be interesting to see how the new tires go. I had 265 r18 Hankook Z222's on before and they spun up everywhere. The Nitto's haven't let go yet. |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell
Posts: 4040 Reg: 04-2006
| I have completed a bunch of maintenance on the race car recently. Th cooling system got another thorough flushing, and a new radiator cap to see if that helps the overheating issues with this particular motor. The issue seems to almost be heat soak related as they only come on around lunch time and the radiator starts spitting coolant out the overflow bottle etc. The front bar mounts took a beating at Winton, and one of the subframes broke. That got re-welded, and the front supports were removed, straightened and refitted. I have fitted a catch at the top of the passenger door to prevent it opening at high speed from the air pressure - apparently the top has been opening approximately an inch. I cant see it from the drivers seat, but that would be terrible for aero. That issue is sorted. I have some 265 and 285 Kumho V70A semi slicks fitted to the new 18 inch rims. I am hoping to get thechance to do some back to back testing of the Nitto NT01 and V70A, acknowledging the Nitto have been on there for the entire year. All the turbo piping is back on the car, and the oil has been changed since the wastgate actuator rod was repaired. I have patched the broken passenger side skirt with some kevlar. I really need to buy some more carbon so I have some lying around for little jobs and patchups. There were quite a lot of other little issues that have been bugging me that I fixed as well, The rest of my time has been taken up with the daily. The left rear wheel bearing has let go, and I have replaced the front left guard and passenger door to improve the aesthetics - both panels were dented from carpark bingles and pushbikes. |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell
Posts: 4043 Reg: 04-2006
| After losing yet another nut to the flat black interior, I decided I was fed up with it. I gutted the entire car and sprayed the floor silver. Silver should go with the silver detail on the outside, and reflect a bit of light making the interior of the car a nicer place to do some maintenance.
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James Buchan
Goo Roo V vvt-i turbo 6 speed manual
Posts: 1969 Reg: 10-2008
| Keep up the good work :-) |
Andrew McKellar
DieHard NSW Mustang GT
Posts: 886 Reg: 06-2008
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Ben Lipman wrote on Sunday, April 02, 2017 - 08:44 pm:After losing yet another nut to the flat black interior, I decided I was fed up with it. I gutted the entire car and sprayed the floor silver.
Haha you must be getting bored over there already. Did you do the track day at Wakefield in October? Back to back tests on the tyres? Data, we need data! |
Chayton Erth
Tinkerer queensland soarer 4lt gt V8
Posts: 26 Reg: 01-2015
| Hey Ben how long till drop a silver nut n change it again ? Love the work on your aero its great work . |
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