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  Soarer Central * Track and Major Rebuild Car Projects * Ben's Time Attack Soarer * Archive through June 29, 2018 Previous Previous    Next Next  

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Paul Kalie
TryHard
NSW
TT

Posts: 160
Reg: 02-2008

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Thursday, April 06, 2017 - 04:02 pm, by:  Paul Kalie (Ajzs) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Looks great Mate !!
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell

Posts: 4044
Reg: 04-2006

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Sunday, April 09, 2017 - 08:41 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Andrew McKellar wrote on Tuesday, April 04, 2017 - 07:05 pm:

Did you do the track day at Wakefield in October? Back to back tests on the tyres? Data, we need data!




I did go to Wakefield, but I still had boost issues (only half what I was supposed to) so it wasnt worth flogging a dead horse. I did swap onto the new tyres and there was no dramatic difference in lap times.

At Mallala last month I had full boost. (It turned out that the rear wastegate was loose and bleeding boost). I immediately equalled my best lap time from a few years ago on these really, really old Nittos. I put the almost brand new Kumho tyres on and could not better the lap time of the old Nittos. It was pretty disappointing to be honest, because the Kumho is a much more expensive tyre.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell

Posts: 4045
Reg: 04-2006

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Sunday, April 09, 2017 - 09:10 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

As recently reported, I ripped everything out of the car the other week to paint the floor. I decided there was no point putting the stock dash back in the car. It is heavy (3.5kg left in mine) and now it has been cut up a few times it is downright ugly. I decided to build my own carbon fibre dash. I have wanted to since my mate Paul did one a few years ago.
I built a plug out of bog and MDF. This is the sort of work I enjoy – building something from scratch. The main shape is a simple right angle, and I wanted to sit the RacePak up at eye level above the steering wheel. This necessitated some cutting, laminating, and sanding of multiple layers of MDF.


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Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell

Posts: 4046
Reg: 04-2006

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Sunday, April 09, 2017 - 09:16 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I put spray filler over the lot, sanded it smooth and coated with polyurethane gloss out of a rattle can. I then made flanges with more MDF to help create a nice mould. Next up, vinylester tooling gel coat, followed by chopped strand mat and polyester resin was laid down to create a fibreglass mould. I have rekindled my love/hate relationship with fibreglass. The smell is hideous, and no matter how much protective gear you wear, you stink for the rest of the day.


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Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell

Posts: 4047
Reg: 04-2006

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Sunday, April 09, 2017 - 09:19 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I decided on a simple wet carbon layup for the dash. I just couldn’t see the point in doing a resin infusion or vac bag. It doesn’t need to be that strong or structurally perfect. I only used 330 grams of epoxy and 1.4m of carbon (about 300grams) so the dash probably weighs about 600 grams. Not a bad saving.


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I now need to make up a switch panel/centre console and figure out the ignition switch. This dash is much more compact than the old one. Where the ‘key’ was is now out of reach. I either extend the harness and put the ‘key’ within reach, or I finally install the push button starter panel I bought a few years back but decided not to use because it was actually heavier than the stock plastic rotary ignition switch.
Chayton Erth
Tinkerer
queensland
soarer 4lt gt V8

Posts: 28
Reg: 01-2015

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Sunday, April 09, 2017 - 10:21 pm, by:  Chayton Erth (Canetoad) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

G Day Ben .Hey as usual done a great job . Love way you do these plugs and molds and make it all yourself . Cars looking great .
Tai Johnsen
Goo Roo
QLD
JZZ30 Pov Manual LSD & black! + 89 Z20 Aerocabin

Posts: 1698
Reg: 04-2006

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Monday, April 10, 2017 - 07:23 am, by:  Tai Johnsen (Privatejohnsen) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have to admit I laughed a little when I saw the words 'weight saving' and then saw MDF, but as usual, great work Ben
Andrew McKellar
DieHard
NSW
Mustang GT

Posts: 889
Reg: 06-2008

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Monday, April 10, 2017 - 08:23 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

And here was me thinking you weren't up to much on the car lately. Awesome work as usual Ben. Dash looks fantastic.
Peter Nitschke
Junk Filterer
South Australia
UZZ30 UZZ31

Posts: 12903
Reg: 11-2004

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Monday, April 10, 2017 - 09:52 pm, by:  Peter Nitschke (Pen) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

As always, I love reading about your work!
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell

Posts: 4048
Reg: 04-2006

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Friday, April 14, 2017 - 07:49 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Chayton Erth wrote on Sunday, April 09, 2017 - 10:21 pm:

G Day Ben .Hey as usual done a great job . Love way you do these plugs and molds and make it all yourself . Cars looking great .



Cheers mate. The dash was reasonably easy, but the box for the centre console/switch panel is actually proving very tricky. I think I have it cracked now, but it involves a 4 piece mould, and I reckon getting the carbon laid up inside it neatly is going to a problem. I don't think I will manage a single continuous piece without joins.


Tai Johnsen wrote on Monday, April 10, 2017 - 07:23 am:

I have to admit I laughed a little when I saw the words 'weight saving' and then saw MDF



Patience. Sometimes you need to step back to go forward.

Andrew McKellar wrote on Monday, April 10, 2017 - 08:23 pm:

And here was me thinking you weren't up to much on the car lately



It has been a slow six months, but with all I had going on, the car needed to be packed up and left alone.

Peter Nitschke wrote on Monday, April 10, 2017 - 09:52 pm:

As always, I love reading about your work!



Thanks for giving me somewhere to record it all. I'll be gutted if it ever closes/dies/shuts down etc.
Chayton Erth
Tinkerer
queensland
soarer 4lt gt V8

Posts: 29
Reg: 01-2015

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Friday, April 14, 2017 - 05:41 pm, by:  Chayton Erth (Canetoad) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

G Day Ben . With the center console could you make up a steel frame on outside of mould then instead of using the vac system use air pressure like injection moulding to force it out to the mould .
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell

Posts: 4052
Reg: 04-2006

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Monday, May 01, 2017 - 07:41 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Chayton Erth wrote on Friday, April 14, 2017 - 05:41 pm:

G Day Ben . With the center console could you make up a steel frame on outside of mould then instead of using the vac system use air pressure like injection moulding to force it out to the mould .




You could, but you would need to make a 'balloon' that is a similar shape to the part so it inflates and presses evenly against the mould. You would also need to lay the carbon and resin up inside the mould first, then insert the balloon.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell

Posts: 4053
Reg: 04-2006

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Monday, May 01, 2017 - 07:43 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I spent the day out at Mallala with the South Australian Supra Club today. Conditions were predicted to be pretty average with rain expected around lunch time. I went out with the aim of bedding in the new front brake rotors, checking everything works properly with the new dash install, and see if I can cut a decent lap time on the new Kumho V70A semi slicks.

First session started off quite gentle going through the process of bedding in the rotors. After a couple of laps everything felt good and the car pulled a new PB of 1:18.01 pretty easily.

Second session I warmed the car up for two laps, leant on it for two laps, cooled it down for two laps before leaning on it again. This session resulted in a 1:17.03 which smashed my previous best by close to a second.

Third session I tweaked the rear tyre pressures (up 1.5psi) to try and get even heating across the face. The process was the same as the previous session. This resulted in a couple of low 1:18s and a 1:17.4. What is interesting is the theoretical best lap of this session was a staggering 1:15.85! This shows there is a lot of time left on the table by the driver if I could have just linked these good segments together in the same lap. I will synchronise the data logger to the in-car camera and see what I was doing in the good segments so I can repeat it next time out.

It started raining on cue at lunch time. I went out to have some fun with some other guys, and predictably binned it resulting in a damaged side skirt. It isn’t anything too major, but will take a bit of work to get straight again.

All in all, a good day out. It shows what you can achieve with less cars on the track at the same time.

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Peter Nitschke
Junk Filterer
South Australia
UZZ30 UZZ31

Posts: 12906
Reg: 11-2004

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Saturday, May 06, 2017 - 01:42 pm, by:  Peter Nitschke (Pen) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Those are excellent results for Mallala Ben.

Good work!
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell

Posts: 4054
Reg: 04-2006

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Monday, May 08, 2017 - 05:21 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks Peter. The aim is to hit a low 16 or high 15 now, and have the optimal lap reset even lower again.
Andrew McKellar
DieHard
NSW
Mustang GT

Posts: 895
Reg: 06-2008

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Monday, May 08, 2017 - 06:57 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Ben Lipman wrote on Monday, May 08, 2017 - 05:21 pm:

The aim is to hit a low 16 or high 15 now, and have the optimal lap reset even lower again.



You mean the aim is to perform the optimum lap and do a 15.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell

Posts: 4060
Reg: 04-2006

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Sunday, September 17, 2017 - 08:35 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Well, I hit a 1:16.68 yesterday.

I have been chasing an overheating issue with this motor ever since it went in. The good motor would run at 22psi for 15 minutes and never crack over 93 deg C. For those who haven't been keeping track, I spun a bearing in that motor at an awkward time. I found a cheap motor in Canberra and bolted all the goodies onto it and dropped it in the car. The junker (as it came to be known) blows smoke on throttle lift off and has a tendency to overheat and push the coolant out the overflow. It is also fast, so I have been putting up with it's poor manners. Unfortunately it now hits 105 dec C and spits coolant almost immediately I get on the throttle on the first hard lap.

I have tried flushing, changing thermostat, swapping radiator caps, back flushing, etc. I have pressure tested the system, and it holds 16 psi before the radiator cap begins to vent. I have fed 100psi into each cylinder to see if there is a leak into the cooling system (no sign).

A compression test shows 125, 135, 130, 130, 125, 140 psi on my gauge which has always read a little lower than I would have expected. 15psi across all 6 is not too bad.

My leak down tester appears to have crapped itself, but best I can tell the cylinders are the same.

I have decided it is time to have a look at the good motor with a view to rebuilding it (new crank and bearings). We were going to run the junker until it detonates, but ran out of brake pads before it blew - in hindsight probably a good thing we didn't destroy the motor as it might actually be a simple fix.

In the meantime, Lew has offered the use of another second hand motor to keep me on the track.
Andrew McKellar
DieHard
NSW
Mustang GT

Posts: 901
Reg: 06-2008

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Monday, September 18, 2017 - 08:10 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Nice to see you're back at it. Bugger about the overheating.

Some ideas here:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/overheat.htm
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell

Posts: 4066
Reg: 04-2006

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Sunday, November 05, 2017 - 09:23 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Been a while since last update: Engine number three has been leaking combustion pressure from number two cylinder into the cooling system. Instant over pressure and over heating.

Engine number four is in the car, engine number three is in bits, and engine number two is gathering parts for a rebuild. Oh, and I fabricated a rear boot lid extension not too far from the factory lip, but more aggressive. Caught up? Good.

Last Monday I had the car out at Mallala with the SA Supra track day. With low track density, only five cars in my group, and 15 minute sessions I was really hoping to test out the new engine and lower the bench mark. Unfortunately, it rained. Again. I am beginning to think I am cursed.

For those following my progress on facebook, you would know I was unable to get hold of the Project Mu Club Racer pads in time. (They still haven’t arrived – never using that online seller again!) I also had another replacement 1J in the car after discovering my overheating issues were likely related to combustion pressure leaking into the cooling system. The first session in the rain was basically a shakedown and pad bed in session, and session two was also wet. It appeared that everything was running fine, and the cooling system looked to be coping.

After it poured with rain at lunch the track went to clay again and the drying line had to slowly evolve. As the track dried out the coolant temps began to rise. It would appear that whilst better, the cooling system is still struggling to keep up. The issue appears to be getting a consistent seal on the radiator, as the system temp drops back to 88-90 degrees C as soon as you get out of the throttle for half a lap. I have had a look at quite a few cooling systems on more modern cars and am gathering the parts to convert mine to a remote header tank style. This will see the radiator sealed with a blanking cap, a remote header tank installed and the header tank plumbed back to the water pump inlet. This will essentially form a closed or sealed system where the ‘overflow reservoir’ is also pressurised and feeds directly back into the system.

I am off to scour the wreckers today for parts to make my new system.




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Peter Nitschke
Junk Filterer
South Australia
UZZ30 UZZ31

Posts: 12926
Reg: 11-2004

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Tuesday, November 07, 2017 - 11:48 am, by:  Peter Nitschke (Pen) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

You must be pretty quick at engine swaps by now?
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell

Posts: 4067
Reg: 04-2006

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Tuesday, November 07, 2017 - 07:34 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Peter Nitschke wrote on Tuesday, November 07, 2017 - 11:48 am:

You must be pretty quick at engine swaps by now?




Engine out one day, new engine arrived that afternoon. I could not sleep that night so I got up at 3am and swapped everything over to the new engine and when the family got up we dropped it in.

So, yeah, reasonably quick. The longest part is feeding the wiring loom through the intake manifold now.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell

Posts: 4068
Reg: 04-2006

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Tuesday, November 07, 2017 - 07:45 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I spent a little time Sunday afternoon coming up with a new cooling system. The existing radiator and pump now have a pressurised swirl pot/reservoir that draws from the radiator header tank and feeds back into the water pump inlet (bottom radiator hose).

The reservoir is from a T31 Turbo diesel and comes with a 137kpa cap, which is higher than the 1.1 bar (110kpa) cap that was the only cap that came close to sealing the alloy radiator. The bottom radiator hose is made up from the factory 1JZ hose and parts from a diesel mercedes joined together by a steel joiner I fabbed up.

The reservoir has an overflow hose that feeds the factory overflow bottle that now acts as a catch can for the system.

Hopefully this will see a return to the days of carefree running with no overheating concerns. If nothing else, the system is now self burping, and has a little extra capacity. It should also now seal up properly, with a blanking cap fitted to the radiator, and the OEM quality reservoir and cap


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Tai Johnsen
Goo Roo
QLD
JZZ30 Pov Manual LSD & black! + 89 Z20 Aerocabin

Posts: 1745
Reg: 04-2006

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Wednesday, November 08, 2017 - 12:52 pm, by:  Tai Johnsen (Privatejohnsen) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Very cool Ben, Interested in the feedback from the cooling upgrade..

Are you still using the stock clutch fan? If so, have you filled it up with more silicone? Both of mine were basically empty.

TOYOTA FAN CLUTCH SILICONE OIL VISCOUS HUB 10000 CST 18ML 0881610001

About $11 per tube and need about 3.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell

Posts: 4071
Reg: 04-2006

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Friday, June 29, 2018 - 06:41 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Wow! I really suck at keeping this thread updated nowadays.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell

Posts: 4072
Reg: 04-2006

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Friday, June 29, 2018 - 06:57 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I can report that my home made pressurised overflow cooling system works a treat. No more overheating issues. Lew's loan motor also worked well. Given we seemed to have finally sorted out the cooling issues, it appeared to be time to finally build a proper motor for the car. After nearly 10 years of running essentially stock 1Js, I have committed to building a motor.

The last six months have involved purchasing all the bits and pieces to put the 'good' motor back together. After talking to Chris at C & M Engine services not far from my place I reluctantly handed over my good block and a couple thousand dollars worth of ARP bolts, bearings, rings, cams, springs and all the oil protection gear. When I say reluctantly, this is no reflection on Chris - he was more than happy to talk me through the finer points of a high end engine rebuild, and do the machining work etc. It was my wife who finally said "How much extra is it if you just get Chris to put it together?". Turns out this was a good question, not because it was cheap, but because he did things to my motor I would never have picked up.

I'll post up some details about the block work later, but suffice to say every surface that could be honed, bored, machined, or surfaced has been done. Bolts got pre stretched, measured, stretched again and measured again before Chris would allow then into the motor. We ran into some problems with the dual valve springs sold by a well known JZ expert - that is they dont fit without some serious machining, and even then the fit would not be something the engine builder would be happy to warrantee. The right springs were purchased direct from the manufacturer and went in.

Pics and details of the engine to follow...

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