Friday, December 09, 2011 - 11:34 am, by: John Stafford(Johng12)
Hi, I am hunting for a limited slip diff for my 32 and have found a possible from a supra that has a ratio of 4.3 or 4.4. Did the jz engines have higher or lower diff ratios? I have heard 3.9. I imagine that the V8s should have higher ratio diffs ie. lower numbers? Am I guessing right? Or does anyone have a torson that I can put in my 32 for sale? Thanks for the help. Cheers John
Friday, December 09, 2011 - 02:37 pm, by: Allan Langford(Allan)
clutch plate style LSD's work great for about 30,000km if your lucky then go back to an open... all my cars have T1 or T2 torsen diff's much nicer to drive as-well!
Dan McColl Goo Roo Victoria (The Nazi State) Pretty Red Thing and The Black Rattler
Friday, December 09, 2011 - 08:39 pm, by: Dan McColl(Hoon)
Stock V8 diff is ~3.9. Stock TT diff is ~4.1. Most supra's are also ~4.1 with the exception of TT Manual which are ~3.2 and late model N/A manual which are ~3.7.
And like Allan said, Clutch Diff's are good for the track, but wear out and need maintenance, and can be a pain on the street.
A torsen is a far superior street diff.
$1200 for a clutch type diff centre, then another $500+ for fitting it to your existing diff vs <1k for a full LSD, just bolt out and bolt in.
John Stafford TryHard Qld. Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8 and a UZZ32 # 514
Thursday, December 15, 2011 - 04:47 pm, by: John Stafford(Johng12)
Hello Dan, I have had a Soarer 31 for over a year now and after reading Peter Scots articles on the 32 I decided that if one came available that was half ok and not too expensive I would give it a go. I haven’t seen the car yet as I am presently overseas and will be back at the end of February, so will see what I have bought then. (I have tried different email addresses to contact Peter Scott but nothing has yielded a workable contact number or email, do you have one for him?) My car has Schrader valves fitted to the Nitrogen accumulators. I don’t know what has been done with the hydraulic side yet but the owner said the suspension has had new seals done recently too. I am hoping that this means the top side has been done too? But maybe it is only the accumulators that have been done.
With regard to the nitrogen gauge that Peter Scot bought, I saw a number of them on U.S. ebay (one for $44) and wondered how to choose. It seems that whatever I buy from there will have different fitting than our bottles, right? Are there different types of regulators for different jobs? Why were the push fittings upgraded to Schrader valves in his article if the push fittings are more user friendly?
It sounds like every 32 owner should have their own nitrogen bottle rather than going to a shop, refrigeration shop, right? Is this the cheapest way to go with a cost of about $100 for the regulator, $40 for the full gas bottle? $40 for adaptor, total of $180 plus $96 per year for rent of bottle, say $280 the first year and then $100 plus gas from then on, right? Is this cheaper than going to a place that re pressurizes them for you or did you go he go that way because he worked on other peoples 32s regularly? How often should one expect to need to re pressurize the system? Maybe that is related to whether a cheap or a good job was done on the accumulators? From looking at the Branz site the units are available but very expensive, maybe not so compared to original Toyota I expect.
When Peter talks about opening the bleed valve, before pressurizing the system with nitrogen, that would mean that one has to refill the fluid tank after pressurizing the system with nitrogen, so do you just put the same fluid back in or is this when you do a bleed of the system, flushing out the old oil completely and putting all that new clear fluid in that Peter calls gold? I wonder if it price has gone up like gold, just as the auto trans fluid has just about doubled? I suppose that the answer to my question is self evident i.e. if the fluid is dirty, do a flush, Otherwise just put it back into the reservoir, right?
I suppose that I decide on whether the top strut needs work by whether or not it is leaking, if not then just a flush should be in order, right?
Thanks for your time and endless contributions to the soarer crowd. Cheers John
Dan McColl Goo Roo Victoria (The Nazi State) Pretty Red Thing and The Black Rattler
Friday, December 16, 2011 - 12:42 am, by: Dan McColl(Hoon)
Scotty is hard to get hold of. The address on planet soarer is correct, but he's just a busy boy.
Different people have done things differently over the years. The push system is an airconditioning system fitting, schrader is a high pressure gas fitting. Not big deal either way.
If the accumulators have been re-built I'd think they won't need re-gassing for another 10+ years.
Any decent suspension shop will have a nitrogen bottle, or I have access to one in QLD.
Don't put the same fluid back in. Hard to explain here quickly, but it's a non circulating hydraulic system, so the fluid you flush out is the fluid that's been in the strut all the time.
Don't cheap out for the sake of $20-30 worth of sus fluid.
I'd wait until you see the car before getting too far ahead of yourself. You're always welcome to bring it down to my shop at yatala and we can stick it up on the hoist and have a look, otherwise Dylan at Albion knows his way around soarer's pretty well.
John Stafford TryHard Qld. Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8 and a UZZ32 # 514