Sunday, October 01, 2006 - 10:28 pm, by: Aaron Mead(Aaron)
Well, as the title says, how do you know if your engine is suitable for a big whack of boost and fuel if its internally stock? 1jz's are tough, but not indestructible. I just wanna know the way to tell. Im thinking about a 3540r, with all the required supporting mods. I think I'll only crank it to 270rwkw until I get a new box though. The one I have at present is an MV rebuilt to stock spec.
Supporting mods list:
*Fuel system (600cc, Bosch040) *ECU (Autronic SM4) *Intercooling (HKS front mount)
Im guessing a leakdown and compression test for a start? I
Monday, October 02, 2006 - 01:50 pm, by: Maurice Diggler(Mau_rice)
Aaron, plenty of people on here have upgraded to single with no major dramas, the only problems you hear are when a car is pushed too far (boost and tuning) or when something lets go like the transmission or differential.
If you do it smart (which I'm sure you will) you will be fine.
Just remember, you bought Rob Haydens old car, which has a fresh motor in it, and we all know how much Rob pampers and babies his cars. so you should be all sweet.
Monday, October 02, 2006 - 02:19 pm, by: Marc Vipond(04awe)
WHAT!?! 1jz's aren't indestructible? That's the first time i've ever heard that LOL 1jz internals are almost bullet proof I've heard of people pushing well over 350rwkw with stock internals Just make sure that when you have your set-up tuned it is tuned for power and longevity instead of just high HP! Too many people are obsessed with bloody figures and are willing to compromise their engine to get the numbers they want!
Monday, October 02, 2006 - 09:07 pm, by: Aaron Mead(Aaron)
Yeah I've heard and seen the results. Just wonderng if theres way to check bearing condition, gasket integrity without opening her up. Guess I cant have my cake and eat it too.
Monday, October 02, 2006 - 09:21 pm, by: Benjamin Burgess(Jampac)
Do a compression test and a leak down test if your concerned about the gasket and rings. You don't need to crack it open for these two tests. As for bearings, unless its been run with low oil, the wrong oil, or poorly serviced, big end should be ok, but you'll know pretty quickly if its stuffed. You can get a dyno operator to listen using ear muffs to the engine closely as it goes up thru the revs on the dyno. Its a good way to hear little things in the engine that don't quiet sound right.
I'd be replacing the front and rear main seals, coilpacks and make sure all sensors are functioning. Also do the belts. You should replace any consumable (serviced part) on the engine that is of unknown ks and age.