Wednesday, January 10, 2007 - 09:39 am, by: Steve Cowing(Driftr)
First of all SORRY to anyone(especially scott f. who asked the question) who was waiting on a reply , i've been working away from home last 3 weeks .Anyway... 1.First i used a flap wheel 80 grit in drill (v.light pressure) to take out main casting marks. 2.Then i used small triangular power sander 120 grit then 240 grit. 3.Then went to different grades of wet/dry paper 800 grit , then 1200 , then 1500.
QUICK TIP - use wet/dry paper-- (you get lots of black residue)use lots of water ,before you start rub a small amount of soap between hands in water so water goes slightly milky , it stops wet/dry paper clogging as fast.
4.If you have tight spots to get into use v.fine wire wool with a fine metal polish- gives very good shine. 5.Then use a polishing wheel with cutting/polishing compound.(use a criss cross pattern i.e. ///////// then \\\\\\ it takes out scratches better this way).
...................OPTIONAL................... 5.1.Re-polish with finest wet/dry.1500.Then re-polish with cutting/polishing compound(This way you get even more mirror like finish).
6.Then use soft cotton polishing wheel with fine polishing paste/compound. Your now done stand back and put on shades!!!!!!!
...................OPTIONAL...................
I do final polish with a polish called BELGOM ALU which both polishes even finer and applys a special wax to protect alloy from oxidising/discolouring.
P.S. To Sean fair/everyone car had quick wash and a quick polish (by my standards) - just three words for you all MEGUIARS POLISHING PRODUCTS , i can't recommend their products enough. P.P.S not bad for original 14 year old paint(seems a shame to change colour)
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