Wednesday, February 08, 2006 - 02:00 pm, by: Peter Nitschke(Pen)
Over time all rubber components go hard and if under stress can break.
So it's probably time to replace the front and rear (or transmission) mounts in your Soarer.
Parts required: Front Engine Mounts x 2, Part Number 12360-50030 with a substitute of 12360-50031 Rear Engine Mount (transmission mount) x 1, Part Number 12371-50030 - $86 delivered from Castle Hill Toyota with SC discount. Price current February 2010.
Tools required: Jack Jack Stands 17mm Spanner 19mm Socket WD40 or similar Block of wood
Tuesday, February 07, 2006 - 06:42 pm, by: Murray Lund(Murray)
UZZ31 Engine Mounts Tutorial 1. Sit front of car on stands ($24 at Supercheap)using the alloy cross member
2. Remove front wheels 3. Spray some WD40 on the top and bottom nuts of the engine mounts 4. There's not a lot of space to get at the top nuts - on the passengers side I loosened a couple of brackets on the suspension air hose just to get a bit more room for a ring spanner. Bit of persistence required.
5. Remove top nut (17mm) with a spanner and the bottom nut (19mm) with a socket - (both sides). 6. Jack up the engine using a trolley jack under the sump with a piece of wood in between to spread the load. Jack up till you can get the mount out. The only thing I eased off in the engine bay was the big rubber hose between the airfilter and the inlet manifolds. 7. Fit new mount.(can be a bit fiddly as the new mount is stiffer than the old, I used the trolley jack handle just to compress the mount into the engine bracket). 8. Repeat on the other side. 9. Tighten everything up
Old mounts
Part number for UZZ3 engine mounts 12360-50110 $311 for 2 at Castle Hill Toyota (speak to James Sloane 8831 8831 and ask for SC discount).
Friday, February 09, 2007 - 06:49 pm, by: Peter Nitschke(Pen)
However, Wayne Llewellyn had this to say:
*** MODERATOR - PLEASE NOTE ***
After watching a professional mechanic with years of experience working on Soarers and having changed dozens of Soarer engine mounts, I strongly urge the removal of the thread "Soarer Central * How-to and Tutorials * Replace UZZ30/31/32 Engine Mounts"
When I followed the instructions I found it not only impossible to undo the driver's side engine mount top nut as described, but I also damaged the power steering and exhaust systems when jacking up the engine high enough to free the passenger side mount.
The correct procedure involves dropping the cross member to get sufficient clearance, a job highly unsuitable for the untrained or feint hearted.
Anyway, the passenger side mount was stuffed, the driver's mount was perfect, the transmission mount was so-so and after all that, the transmitted engine noise I assumed was caused by the broken engine mount remains as loud as ever. Bugger.
So, anyone got any ideas what is causing what sounds like normal engine and transmission noises that should be contained within the engine bay from entering the cabin? The noise is loudest when the car is cold and almost disappears after an hour or so of driving ?
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