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Ben Evans
DieHard
Qld
ARISTO YO!

Posts: 628
Reg: 07-2005

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Wednesday, March 14, 2007 - 08:21 pm, by:  Ben Evans (Sbyder) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

NOTE: If you do not feel comfortable doing this project, leave it up to the pro’s. I hold no responsibility for any issues that may arise due to this How-To.

Costs: $145 – Intercooler
$5 – Hose Clamps
$36 – 90 degree silicon bend
$6 – Mounting brackets

Total Cost
$192

I used the stock Aristo and some old soarer cooler piping I found from previous projects to reduce costs and for ease of fitment. I found that I still needed to purchase a 90 degree bend, for which everyone wanted to charge about $100. Found one on Ebay for $36 to my door, thanks Ebay!


Step 1. Purchase the Intercooler and bend/s (if you plan to use the stock piping, get a 2.5inch inlet and outlet cooler)

Here is where I got my 600x300x76 bar and plate cooler from, though there are plenty to choose from all over Ebay.
[IMG]
http://image-cache.boostcruising.com/database/members/files/sbyder20070314193635pslfile1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://image-cache.boostcruising.com/database/members/files/sbyder20070314193924pslfile1.jpg[/IMG]
=> [URL="http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=002&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=1 20093651441&rd=1&rd=1"]http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=002&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=1 20093651441&rd=1&rd=1[/URL]
And here is where I got the bend
=> [URL="http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=008&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=1 80092674858&rd=1&rd=1"]http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=008&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=1 80092674858&rd=1&rd=1[/URL]

Step 2. Disconnect the Battery
This will serve 2 purposes, A) ensures no wires can short while you remove the front bar, and B) gives your ECU a reset, ready for the new intercooler.

Step 3. Remove Front Bar.
I have an aftermarket bar, so it was fairly easy to remove. Remove all the bolts, and pull her off. NOTE: please make sure you disconnect any fog light wires before yanking her off.

Step 4. Remove stock IC.
There are 3 main bolts holding it on to the car via brackets and 2 cooler pipes. Remove the pipes 1st, then remove the air inlet shroud, then the mount bolts.

Step 5. Remove the front IC pipe.
To remove the long piece of pipe, you will need to remove the intrusion bar. 5x 12mm bolts hold this on and you can access them via the holes at the front with a socket and extension. You will also find a small AC sensor mounted on the bar, pull it off and mount it elsewhere. Once the bar is off, disconnect the passenger side IC pipe connection and pull the pipe out.

Step 6. “Adjust” steering and air-con pipes and move radiator fan cooler.
My radiator fan cooler was already removed in another project, but you may need to move the pipes towards the condenser as well as the power-steering cooler lines. I got away with bending the pipes very gently towards the condenser.

Step 7. Mount the Cooler.
I purchase simple 90 degree brackets from Mitre 10 for about $3 each. More than ample to hold an IC onto the front intrusion bar. Dummy fit the IC, measure up the distances to be sure it’s in the middle of the front. Bolt the brackets onto the IC, and hang the brackets over the re-installed intrusion bar. Once that’s done, screw in some big screws through the front and top of the brackets into the bar. This will give added strength. While at this stage, its best to check for the front bars clearance, so dummy fit it onto the car to see if you have to hack it up. With any luck you won’t, but if you do, grab the good old jig-saw and hack away! It might also pay to check for ground clearance and make sure the cooler is not sitting too low.
[IMG]http://image-cache.boostcruising.com/database/members/files/sbyder20070314194057pslfile1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://image-cache.boostcruising.com/database/members/files/sbyder20070314194224pslfile1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://image-cache.boostcruising.com/database/members/files/sbyder20070314194340pslfile1.jpg[/IMG]

Step 8. Install the piping.
Because I’m a cheap skate, I used old intercooler parts from my old soarer as well as cutting up the huge front stock Aristo IC pipe. As seen in the pics, I just moved the stock pipes around, cut up the long pipe to suit some bends and join them all together. I found I also needed a 90 degree silicon bend, so Ebay solved that problem. Make sure you tighten all the hose clamps up to make the joints air tight and secure.
[IMG]http://image-cache.boostcruising.com/database/members/files/sbyder20070314194518pslfile1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://image-cache.boostcruising.com/database/members/files/sbyder20070314194627pslfile1.jpg[/IMG]

Step 9. Stand Back and enjoy the view.
Almost done, now take some pics to show your grandkids, and get ready for the last few steps.

Step 10. Start her up.
Connect the battery up, making sure any wires are not going to short. Start the car and listen for any leaks. It will make a pretty obvious vacuum noise if there’s a leak, so if you find one, turn her off and fix it.

Step 10. Reinstallation.
Re-install the front bar making sure to connect all the wires back up and all bolts are tightened securely.

Step 11. Enjoy!
[IMG]http://image-cache.boostcruising.com/database/members/files/sbyder20070314194741pslfile1.jpg[/IMG]
Mite Paunoski
Tinkerer
QLD
Aristo 3.0V JZS147 (2JZGTE)

Posts: 28
Reg: 02-2007

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Thursday, March 15, 2007 - 10:02 am, by:  Mite Paunoski (Mr_aristo) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Nice work champ did you have to cut anything to make it fit and what about the impact bar did it get in the way?
Ben Evans
DieHard
Qld
ARISTO YO!

Posts: 629
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, March 15, 2007 - 02:20 pm, by:  Ben Evans (Sbyder) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

didnt have to cut anything except the piping. This sized intercooler fitted nice and snug up against the impact bar, so i didnt have any issues there.

The only problem i have now is blowing the pipes off under boost, but I'll fix that by buying some new T-clamps.

Cheers
Ben
Justin Leafe
TryHard
Queensland
Celsior

Posts: 103
Reg: 09-2005

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Friday, April 13, 2007 - 07:41 pm, by:  Justin Leafe (Dust) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Your step 3 is cheating, standard front bar is a pain to get off, I am struggling with mine right now!
Mustafa Akgul
Goo Roo
NSW
JZZ30-GTTL

Posts: 1058
Reg: 07-2005

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Saturday, April 14, 2007 - 03:37 pm, by:  Mustafa Akgul (Muzzy) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

zoom did one recently and they had to cut the bar to fit a fat KKR cooler.
Justin Leafe
TryHard
Queensland
Celsior

Posts: 104
Reg: 09-2005

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Saturday, April 14, 2007 - 06:21 pm, by:  Justin Leafe (Dust) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

HPI did a similar article, maybe you are thinkin of that?

I just finished doin the same KKR cooler as the HPI magazine, pita! would of been 10 times easier if I wasn't doin it by myself.
Mustafa Akgul
Goo Roo
NSW
JZZ30-GTTL

Posts: 1059
Reg: 07-2005

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Saturday, April 14, 2007 - 07:05 pm, by:  Mustafa Akgul (Muzzy) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

yeah actually was HPI
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

Posts: 1794
Reg: 03-2006

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Tuesday, April 24, 2007 - 06:52 pm, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Yeah and the KKR Cooler made no difference on The 1/4 mile time the HPI car ran either! SO maybe the stock one aint too bad?
Ben Evans
DieHard
Qld
ARISTO YO!

Posts: 656
Reg: 07-2005

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Tuesday, April 24, 2007 - 07:03 pm, by:  Ben Evans (Sbyder) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Its actually not that bad, though it does drain power. Its basically the same SMIC as the supra and soarer, which have proven increases in HP when upgrading to other intercoolers.
Wayne Koh
TryHard
Western Australia
Aristo 3.0V

Posts: 320
Reg: 07-2005

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Tuesday, April 24, 2007 - 10:14 pm, by:  Wayne Koh (Teknoboi) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

fmic only gives the ability to increase boost and prevent heatsoak only when your on boost i think. if your off boost, i dont think it matters much?
Ben Evans
DieHard
Qld
ARISTO YO!

Posts: 657
Reg: 07-2005

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Wednesday, April 25, 2007 - 01:51 pm, by:  Ben Evans (Sbyder) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

If you get a high quality cooler, it will actually flow a lot better and cool more easily, hence more air into the engine (with more fuel)= more power produced. :-)

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