Monday, March 10, 2008 - 09:38 pm, by: Kim Hunt(Lxtasi)
well i ran 1 2 gauge earth to the nice big bolt on fuel tank but i sanded the surface to get a good connection on the metal, i ran another earth to the r/h strut tower bolt with the same prepporation and last but not least i used an old positive 4 gauge wire that previously supplied power to my after market amp from the fuel tank earth to the front left strut tower with the wire running through the interior of the car. now the engine bay consist of 2 2 gauge grounds coming from either side of the strut towers to a bolt on the side of the head near the exhaust manifolds.i also ran some 8 gauge wire the the earth that i am using for my 2 thermo fan relays for my intercooler and transmission and the intercooler pump relay just for added asurrance.
no i ran 2 gauge positive for the 240amp rating. i went from the gold plated jaycar battery terminals to a 500amp (red toggle isolator switch like you see on most drag cars) to a 200amp fuse (because i couldn't get a 240amp circuit breaker from jaycar), then from their i went down through a plug in the pare tire wheel well, then fed it under the car (making sure it is above all suspension components like axles etc...) till i got the plastic trothing which i fed the wire through till i got to the front right wheel well which i then went under the plastics and through a hole in the inside of the guard and made sure i had enough length to get to the starter motor.
now i cut the original positive wires from the starter and the fuse box. i then connected the positive that came straight from the battery to the starter motor and also ran a 2 gauge wire from the starter motor to the fuse box.
make sure you use good ring terminals, battery terminals and make sure you solder all connections and insulated well with heat shrink not tape. tape will unwravel.the 2 gauge wire is very expensive! well i think thats it i hope i didn't confuse anyone i have pics that i will post up
Wednesday, March 12, 2008 - 07:35 pm, by: Tai Johnsen(Privatejohnsen)
Thanks Kim!
The info and pictures are great...
I wish I had that much room where your battery is... I have the factory amp to contend with..
I don't think I am keen enough to go directly to the starter motor.. I'll try going straight to the original terminal location.
I had another delivery today, this time from the US of A..
I wanted to keep an eye on the boost and vacuum level but i'm not a fan of the analogue gauges.
After a bit of searching I came across VEI systems gauges and thought they were pretty cool. I reckon digital will suit the soarer and they come in blue to match the blue LED addiction, and they are very well priced and there are heaps of different types.
Another thing I wanted to keep an eye on is water temp.. So rather than just having a guess that the temp is somewhere between C and H, so I got the water temp gauge too.
Thursday, March 13, 2008 - 07:22 pm, by: Tai Johnsen(Privatejohnsen)
Yeah, damn straight Gareth..
I got mine from BOC Gas and Gear.. They had a few different sizes. I got the 52mm^2 stuff. It's double insulated too and will handle a gazillion amps. It was about $20 per meter.
Tuesday, March 18, 2008 - 03:00 pm, by: Paul Mainey(Gttv8)
Things seem to be moving along nicely Tai.
I have the same Lex Motorsport supercharger bracket for my V1 in my soarer. It certainly makes life easier.
Those gauges look good. I have a set of Dakota Digital gauges in mine with black bezels and a teal display. Which suits my black interior and standard instrument lighting. I'm currently working on a custom 3 gauge holder.
I also moved my battery to the boot. Like you, I ran the cable straight to the original positive terminal in the engine bay with an isolation switch located in my centre console. My initial problem I had was the battery no supplying enough amps to start the car. I bit the bullet and got a sealed 1000CCA battery. Works like a charm.
I'll have to post up some pics of the whole thing once I'm happy with it all.
Tuesday, March 18, 2008 - 06:35 pm, by: Paul Mainey(Gttv8)
No worries Tai.
I'll have to take some photos. It's all back in pieces and locked away about 4 hours from where I live now. So it's grinded to a halt at the moment.
Looking forward to getting back at easter and playing around with it.
It's running a Haltech E8 with wideband and 14psi with 440cc injectors, mal reg, and walbro pump. Rush supercharger headers with a twin 3" stainless exhaust, which is a bit loud at the moment till I can sort out the cats and balance pipe. 600x300x100 cooler and oil cooler up front.
As for the wire for the battery relocation, I grab a welding lead from work and cut that up. You gotta love free
Wednesday, March 19, 2008 - 02:11 pm, by: Paul Mainey(Gttv8)
Yeah Tai,
I'm running a smaller pulley. No slippage yet, but it hasn't been run that much.
As for the cooler, it was one of the easiest install I've done yet. I'm using some aluminium angle that run the entire width of the chassis rail with spacers to locate the cooler high enough. Fit's in with the standard washer bottle still located above it, which I need as I had to remove the other one from the passenger wheel well to fit the piping.
The wideband will run off a common pipe before the diff where the two 3" systems come together before splitting again. I'm still working on getting the exhaust sorted.
Monday, March 31, 2008 - 08:18 pm, by: Tai Johnsen(Privatejohnsen)
Thanks for the pics paul...
Not very much progress to report on, been too busy with life....
I got my hands on two more 7M-GTE injectors and will get them cleaned and flow tested with new o-rings etc hopefully this week... Then I'll see if I can sort out the fuel pump, so worst case it'll be ready for a basic tune on the new injectors at atmo..
Sunday, April 06, 2008 - 09:27 pm, by: Tai Johnsen(Privatejohnsen)
Weekend update...
I removed a butt load of stuff off the car..
Removed the front bumper (what a mission) and removed lots of plastic things in the way of everything..
Removed the 42L windscreen washer bottle!! Seriously, it's frikking huge!! If you wanna improve your 1/4 mile time drain the bugger!! Could come in handy if stuck in a desert though... detergent could be a problem..
Got some angle aluminium from mitre 10 and hung the inter-cooler (just jap 600x300x76 for $175 delivered)
and routed the battery cable into the engine bay..
Pics...
This is my oil filter assembly...
What's to stop me undoing one of those plugs and taking my oil feed from there? Rather than doing the whole t-piece from the pressure sender?
Is it just me, or is the FMIC mounted with the outlets being obstructed by body work? I'm pretty sure my brothers didn't need any trimming in those areas.
Monday, April 07, 2008 - 05:38 pm, by: Daniel Clarke(Dieseltrain)
Its been mounted too high and too far back.. Needs to sit a little further forward towards the nose and also lower.. I have mine sitting nice and neat and all the plastic undertrays still fit on to keep it looking stock.