Tuesday, October 18, 2005 - 09:05 am, by: Graham Dollisson(Alloyvee)
It's funny how both engines are recommended to run 10W-30. These engines aren't low tech , push rod 6's or V8's. I run the recommended spec 10W-30 in my TT , with changes at 5000 and will continue to. Using a 60 weight oil, you are, at the best, causing excessive fuel consumption and at worst...who knows.
Tuesday, October 18, 2005 - 09:26 am, by: Mike Triggs(Mikeandimah)
I agree with Graham, I can see no purpose in running "thick" oil in high-tec engines. I used to use 20W-50 in my International Scout, and my boat-anchor engined Commodores!
My handbook says 5W-20, 5W-30, or 10W-30 for our 3.0 VVTi, and won't be using any thick stuff in it, despite the fact it's very hard (I had to bring it in my luggage!) to get full-synth oil here.
Tuesday, October 18, 2005 - 11:14 am, by: Cihan Aday(Cihan)
An oil is as viscid as its highest number during operation. The lower number denotes startup viscocity rating.. A 5 weight will flow more at lower temperatures, so you use it in colder climates where the startup temp is lower because oil needs to flow to vital areas in the engine quickest.
Using a higher weight oil is a simple solution for low oil pressure and improves protection at higher revs in some cars. But, you'll find 1JZ's etc are built very well and dont burn oil even if taken to, or through! redline on a regular basis, showing taht they hold together well. They dont need the extra protection or buffer against wear a higher weight oil provides at high revs. All your doing is increasing oil pressure and as far as im concerned, could be doing more harm than good.
60 weight is too high, thats double what toyota recommended to use back in 91. I guess the race car guys would know better though.
Tuesday, October 18, 2005 - 11:16 am, by: Liam Swan(Liampire)
10W-30 for the TT is the recommended factory oil however there is a pretty big climate difference between Japan and Australia so you would want the 10W for the cold start but look at something a little higher in viscosity for when the engine heats up so that it doesn't just go really runny. And also you would have to accommodate for a little bit of engine wear, since the 1JZ is now 14 years old. 10W-50 or something similar.
Tuesday, October 18, 2005 - 11:39 am, by: Shane McInnes(Soarin_tt)
Im with you Travis, the Climate in Australia and Japan shouldnt make a difference...once the engine is warmed up there wouldnt be much difference at all in which country it was in...
By the way i use a semi synthetic 10W-30 oil. it works fine for me, no problems at all.
Tuesday, October 18, 2005 - 12:18 pm, by: Liam Swan(Liampire)
There would be a big difference in the cooling of the engine being either stationary or moving. If you were to drive your car hard on a hot day, the engine components and oil would become very hot as the ambient temperature can only cool to a certain point. At high RPM and high temperatures you wouldn't want your oil to be like water. That is why additives like zinc are present in oil which provide an anti-friction surface between metal-metal components.
The oil used in NASCAR engines is 5W-30 but they have massive oil coolers.
Tuesday, October 18, 2005 - 12:32 pm, by: Mike Triggs(Mikeandimah)
Our handbook states 5W-20 for all temperatures, including 40C plus. I don't see that running a thicker oil is an advantage (especially if the manufacture says "use the thin stuff").
Once a car's up to running temp I too don't see that much difference. The greatest stress on an engine (except for sustained high rev running) is sitting in traffic on a hot day, which can and does happen (probably with great frequency) in Japan.
As a matter of interest the 4JX1 diesel in our Wizard is also rated at 5 or 10W-30 oil, and when the 4JX1-engined BigHorn (Jackaroo) brother of our car went to UK in large numbers they had big problems with cold weather starting. Reason? They used 20W-50 oil which the (oil pressurised) fuel pump didn't like. UK owners of this engine have seen the light and now use 5W-30 full-synth oil, mostly.
Tuesday, October 18, 2005 - 03:24 pm, by: Cihan Aday(Cihan)
Liam, your engine internals do not run any hotter on a hot day.
20 degrees difference in ambient temperature is not going to effect the engine oil temp. Thats why car engines have liquid cooling systems with radiators.
Engine temperature will be exactly the same in the heat of summer and a freezing winter, because its determined by the thermostat. As the liquid running through the engine warms up and gets to or in some cases approaches a predetermined temperature (say 90 degrees), the thermostat engages the engine fan and cools the radiator. We can assume for all intensive purposes that the engine oil temp is only ever slightly higher than the water temperature. Water/coolant is a good heat conductor and regulates temeperature spikes quite easily.
The engine oil temperature only rises if youve done considerable modifications and the cooling system cannot expell the additional heat energy, or there is a problem with the radiator and associated parts.
The only thing a hot day does is makes the thermo , hence engine fan etc engage more often. A 20 degrees celcius delta in ambient temperature isn't much for an engine. There are explosions reaching way over a thousand degrees in there, with cylinder pressures over 4500psi..
Tuesday, October 18, 2005 - 06:54 pm, by: Jeff Hogan(Hoges)
ive been using shell helix ultra since i bought my TT back in november, i think its 5W-50? it does blow a bit of smoke when you give it a boot, but not when its just idling or at start up.
Wednesday, October 19, 2005 - 11:29 am, by: Cliff Newton(Tiger_x)
Ive been using the same as you Jeff, the shell helix ultra fully synth. Ive been using for abt 3 years now and havent had any problems. The oil tends to stay clean for a long time. I also get a bit of smoke from the back when i give it a boot. I dont think its oil burning though, more inclined to think its just a rich mix of fuel. My oil level on the dipstick never changes, it always stays full. Do you think 5W could be too light? I know my 1JZ idles very quick on cold start up, im guessing the lighter oil would be better for it when the engine is cold and idling quick. any more thoughts on the shell helix ultra fully synth for the 1JZ?
Wednesday, October 19, 2005 - 11:50 am, by: Liam Swan(Liampire)
I use shell helix ultra and have been for the past 4 oil changes. It seems very good, and my oil level never changes. I don't get any smoke when I stomp it thought. But for my next oil change i'm considering changing to penrite HPR 10w-50 semi synthetic. My brother is running that and it is also very good. Good price too, 6L for $30.
Would there be any complications when changing from a fully synthetic oil to a semi synthetic oil? I know full syn and mineral oil is a definate no go...
Wednesday, October 19, 2005 - 12:02 pm, by: Jeff Hogan(Hoges)
anybody had any experience with motul 300v 10w40? I read an ad in a hpi or something last night about it, it is full synthetic too. might have to see if i can find a price on it.
Wednesday, October 19, 2005 - 02:15 pm, by: Graham Dollisson(Alloyvee)
I use to use Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40 and had no trouble but it did bother me that it was not the grade specified. The 5w bothered me more than the 40.I have since been using Pennzoil full synth 10w-30 and am now very happy.
Previous
