Thursday, May 13, 2010 - 04:11 am, by: Raj Somarouthu(Edinlexusv8)
Hi Folks, I had a problem with my wheel bearings, the one on the front right was faulty. One of the things I noticed was a harmonic noise when I drive over 50 mph. More like WooWooWooWoo. This means the hub is not rotating freely. The garage who I generally use put the car up on a ramp with the wheels hanging, proved it to me that the wheel bearing is making the noise by rotating the wheels on both side. The one on the right (o/s/f) was not rotating freely and was also making some noise compared to the one on the left (n/s/f).
I did do a search and put up a post for this but never managed to find decent info about the work, time and complexity involved in replacing a wheel bearing. So I decided to put this post put for a tutorial on replacing the front wheel bearings.
The replacement parts you need from the catalogue are shown highlighted in the following pic along with the part numbers. You need a set for each side of the axle. Also the garage should be equipped with a decent hydraulic press to press out the bearing and press in the new bearing. If you use a hammer or something else to press the bearing in you have a very high chance of damaging it.
1) Hole Snap Ring (Front Axle) - 90521-82001 2) Oil Seal (Front Axle) - 90311-50008 3) Nut (Locking nut) - 90179-24005 4) Grease Cap (front Axle Hub) - 43514-24010
To do this job we had to
Remove the wheel
Remove the brake disc
Remove the brake caliper (see that it is secured properly)
Disconnect all the control arms from the hub
Disconnect and remove the ABS sensor from the top of the hub (recommended but we did not)
Remove the studs on the wheel hub (recommended but we did not)
Remove the the wheel hub which contains the bearing.
Remove the centre grease cap
Remove the nut under the grease cap
Remove the ABS skid control rotor
Using the press remove the Hub sub assay out
Remove the oil seal
Remove the snap ring
Using the press remove the bearing out
Using the press, press the new bearing in and do the above steps in the reverse order
More pics to follow ...+++ jpeg +++ 316798 +++ Upload +++
Thursday, May 13, 2010 - 04:22 am, by: Raj Somarouthu(Edinlexusv8)
Here goes the pics from my work :dance:
You can clearly see here how this bearing has deteriorated. Looks like some water was seeping in and corroded the bearings and the grease looks dirty too ...
Look at the difference between the n/s and o/s front bearings (the offside one was faulty)
Peter Nitschke Junk Filterer South Australia UZZ30 UZZ31
Thursday, May 13, 2010 - 08:59 am, by: Raj Somarouthu(Edinlexusv8)
After I upload pics from my hard drive, they dont seem to appear on the posts. Dont know what is wrong may be the pics are not the right size ... System uploads the images with no problem and also adds the tag at the end of the post but the image doesnot appear in the post.
Thursday, May 13, 2010 - 08:54 pm, by: Raj Somarouthu(Edinlexusv8)
I bought the 2 X TIMKEN front wheel bearings from US. It costed me $72 including postage. I heard very good reviews of Timken and found the quality to be very good.
Sunday, January 02, 2011 - 09:30 am, by: Gary Rollason(Garyr)
Thanks Ben
I got replacement bearings and they are single bearings with double row rollers. Wasn't sure when I saw Raj's rooted bearings were separate. Looks like I'll also need locking nuts and oils seals before giving it a go. Does anyone know how hard this is to do yourself without the SST's for removing the tie rod end and the steering knuckle from the upper and lower suspension arms? The old bloke over the road has a press for removal and replacement of the bearing so I've got that covered.
Ben Lipman Goo Roo SA Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
Sunday, January 02, 2011 - 08:15 pm, by: Ben Lipman(Ben12a)
Gary I did it without any dramas. The rears on the other hand are a drama- you have to dissasemble half the rear end.
I just went to Super cheap and grabbed some "pullers" from their range. One was a ball joint separator, and I can't remember if I needed another. I took the hub to Toyota to press out (Only went to Toyota because they always do it on the spot for me) but as you said you have it covered.
I got all the bits I needed from CHT. I just rang the parts department and told them the bearing was shot and asked what else they would replace at the same time and ordered the lot. From memory the bits and peices were cheaper than you might think (except their bearing was stupidly overpriced)
I purchased the soarer bible from Jeff Harper a few years ago and it has paid for itself fifty fold over the last few years. It is not as easy to follow as a Gregory's or a Haynes manual, but all the info you need is there.
Monday, January 03, 2011 - 01:21 pm, by: Vinny Ozorio(Fruitloop)
WOW is that torque correct of 147 ft/lbs for the final torque of the centre nut ??? Looks like I had better take the cap off the back and try to re-torque it !!