Saturday, December 04, 2010 - 05:26 pm, by: Chris Lock(Sledge)
So 35 degree day and had to go to Murray bridge. Got there ok, but while up there i heard a hissing noise...temp went up etc.. Loaded the car onto a trailer and got it home.. but it's spitting out coolant at the top where marked... http://i55.tinypic.com/14b5h4w.jpg any ideas what would need fixing, and how much it's likely to cost? Also any recommended coolant specialists near to Port Adelaide?
Saturday, December 04, 2010 - 05:43 pm, by: David Ward(Djwtoyota)
Almost certain to be the join between the top tank and the core. Just get a new top tank fitted but have the core properly cleaned at the same time. Are you running the recommended Toyota red coolant/corrosion protection?
Saturday, December 04, 2010 - 05:48 pm, by: Chris Lock(Sledge)
Nah it's had the green coolant in there, and i've been planning to get it changed ( i did ask one place to do it, but it's still green..??) I guess now is a good time to get it done..
Monday, December 06, 2010 - 02:14 pm, by: Greg Wyllie(Bearshead)
Red or Green....Is there a difference, besides the colour, of the coolant in how it works? And if there is why would a radiator specialist say there is no point using Toyota Red
Monday, December 06, 2010 - 02:15 pm, by: Daniel Arndt(Darndt)
Chris you said "radiator specialist" So what do they know about 1uzfe toyota engines or the alloys used in them? I would stick with the "soarer specialists" (eg many people on this forum, or Mr T himself) And only use the Toyota red coolant. Cheers
Monday, December 06, 2010 - 04:22 pm, by: Aiden Cheese(Chillpen)
If its got green in it, you have to flush it pretty damn thoroughly to put red back in.
Also the reason green or red ever get bad is this: as they deteriorate they become back to their more simple chemicals over time. These chemicals are acedic and cause corrosion to things like your water pump and gaskets. I doubt it'll ever do anything to the bare block other than the corroded bits from the rest of your system gunking up and restricting flow.
What happens when you mix two different types of coolants? You more or less mix two different chemicals and they'll react a bit. They may cause a sludge or they may cause corrosion faster.
Either way - labels are important to follow, and none of that bad stuff will probably happen in either case when your coolant is probably ph 9.5-10 (AKA Basic).
But by all means bring some science into this thread and disprove me
Monday, December 06, 2010 - 05:40 pm, by: Aiden Cheese(Chillpen)
Why do toyota use red? Not sure. But here's my theory:
IN other brands, red coolant used to mean (maybe still does?) long life coolant. Basically it would take longer to break down. American's say 150 000miles before it'd break down.
Green would be shorter life coolant. Perhaps only 40 000 miles till it needed to be flushed and replaced.
I can't tell you if Toyota Red coolant is the same as other brand's red coolant, and I suspect like most toyota things, it's been tweaked a little to be perhaps a little more gentle to their cars.
Or perhaps it's just the bottle which says 100 000kms instead of 140 000miles just to be safe for people keeping it in their cars for too long.
So I hope someone else can help you out.
Me? I use green coolant. My system has been thouroughly cleansed. I ran 3 green coolant flushes + hose flush in 2 weeks. Just to make sure that it was tip-top. I know I replace my coolant every year and I don't do more than 40 000kms most years ;)
I do it just because it's part of a "major service" which i do on whatever car i own as a big day spent making the car back to peak performance in oil, transmission fluid, power steering fluids, brake fluids and coolants.
Hope that helps, and if it doesn't I hope someone else can help you more.
If anyone else knows if these are myths or not that'd be cool as well. I'm a home garage mechanic not a real one ;P
Monday, December 06, 2010 - 05:58 pm, by: Dave Rose(Sand_groper)
Having worked for Toyota for a number of years Toyota fluid is the right one to use ,it lubes the pump for a start! and your engine will look like this after 20years
Monday, December 06, 2010 - 06:06 pm, by: Chris Lock(Sledge)
Really? Half of it's missing !! Mines still complete and running again now ;)
And as Aiden said, i needed the car back on the road.. so decided against the alloy one. Also as far as i know the alloy ones arn't as easy to clean? you need to cut them open and then weld them back up again? They're designed more as a race throw away item?
Maybe next time i get something done to the cooling system i'll get the Red coolant put in.. Oh and they broke my door trim
Tuesday, December 07, 2010 - 07:26 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
I just do the same thing I do with all my major services - rather than buy everything at once and end up with a huge credit card bill, I start hoarding it up months before hand paying cash for everything. So far for my 200K service which should be coming up in about 3 months I have my new plugs, oil, and filter - still a lot to buy! Won't change my coolant yet as its only done around 35K since the new radiator went in.
Of course you can't do that when something has failed and if you are on a budget, time and money, you do have to compromise sometimes - however, Soarers are not good cars to own on a budget unfortunately, and won't reward cost cutting well.
Tuesday, December 07, 2010 - 08:22 am, by: Tom Richards(Tomr)
aiden, the radiators are xstock in sydney. pickup if you are in sydney, or a couple of days delivery by courier. If you use the correct coolant and change it at the required intervals, the radiator will not need to be taken apart for cleaning.
Tuesday, December 07, 2010 - 10:10 am, by: Chris Lock(Sledge)
Hrmm.. now the car is making a 'squeaking' noise while running.. One of the front pulley's must have got wet? is there any way to fix this? Spray WD40 around the area?
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