Tuesday, April 25, 2006 - 10:27 pm, by: Steven Nanevski(Imprestik)
Hey all,
I'm gonna change my oil on the weekend, and get my usual Mobil 1 Synthetic oil (5w - 50) but when I went into toyota yesterday to pick up my new air conditioner filter, I noticed on the stands they sell toyota synthetic oil. All I had was a quick read, it is 5w - 40.
Now, do you think this oil will be too thin to use?
I wanna give it a shot, but no point if its too thin, especially with the winter coming on, might need something a little thicker like the mobil 1 5w - 50.
Also, has anyone used a oil engine flush before they change oil, I used to do it in my old corolla before I bought a soarer, but never had use a flush in the soarer yet. Am I wasting $15 for nothing??
Tuesday, April 25, 2006 - 11:27 pm, by: Dan McColl(Hoon)
It's probably OK. you can use a bit thinner oil in winter, especially if you do a lot of short trips and starting and stopping. BE aware that you may get a bit of oil consumption with thinner oil.
Some people are for and some against flushing. Do a search for the pro's and con's, it was discussed not long ago.
Wednesday, April 26, 2006 - 06:04 pm, by: Dave Hart(Davyboy)
It's a viscosity thing so the lower the numbers the thinner the oil at start-up. So it depends on the country, i.e. for hot Aussie conditions you'd go for something different than what you'd want in Scandinavian countries. I think that's what it means. No doubt someone will be more knowledgable and give us the 'good oil' so to speak.
Wednesday, April 26, 2006 - 06:45 pm, by: Mike Triggs(Mikeandimah)
The specified oil for our 3.0 n/a is 5W-30 or 10W-30 (actually, for the '97 it's 5W-20 but that's very hard to get, especially where we live) and that's what we use. I used to use 20W-50 in old clunker OHV cars with big internal clearances, but the Soarer is a nice modern DOHC design, which uses thin oil.
Wednesday, April 26, 2006 - 09:19 pm, by: Daniel Clarke(Dieseltrain)
Im about to do an oil change on my TT this weekend, I normally run Mobil 1 Full synthetic 5w-50 in my cars. Is this the best to run in my TT motor? thanks
Thursday, April 27, 2006 - 04:24 pm, by: Don Bagnall(Baggs)
Frankly m'dears, hoo cares?. If you're running a NORMAL street type car, just use a good quality mineral oil..........I use Castrol 10W-40, which works just peachy!. But having said that, I drive like an old Nana (most of the time!), and if it's got oil (of some description), then that's foine!.
If ya's MUST run the "Bling,Bling" oil, then, by all means go for the "Mobull Uno" type stuff.........If it makes ya feel better for using it, then hoo am I to argue .
Cheers, and yours in recreational drinking. "Baggs"
ps: Yes, I know it's not Friday, but I had a duty free bottle wot I brung from Orstralia wiv me....Awight?.
Saturday, April 29, 2006 - 11:38 am, by: Braden Murdoch(Ribfeast)
I run Motul 10W40 in my 1JZ. Just use kerosene as an oil flush, mix it 50/50 with some bargain basement oil, idle the engine with it for 5 minutes, drain it out and replace with your good oil. The 10W is the thickness, and the 40 is how resistant it is to thinning out under temperature, is that right? So theoretically 10W60 would be better so turbos etc don't suffer extra wear from the oil thinning out?
Saturday, April 29, 2006 - 04:42 pm, by: Mike Triggs(Mikeandimah)
Braden Murdoch wrote on Saturday, April 29, 2006 - 11:38 am:
So theoretically 10W60 would be better so turbos etc don't suffer extra wear from the oil thinning out?
The internal clearances, oil galleries and the oil pump would presumably be designed for this thick oil if that were the case. Since the specified oil is 5W-30 or 10W-30 one assumes the manufacturer knows the oil the engine needs?
A case might be made for thicker oil if the mileage was high (and internal clearances greater) or for hard use like track days, otherwise I can see no reason not to stick with manufacturer's recommendation, like we do with ATF and coolant.
Saturday, April 29, 2006 - 06:00 pm, by: Ben Socratous(Socrates)
I've used a flush a few times as my engine inners were black as the ace of spades when I bought her. Started off just using the $10 nulon variety. After two oil changes I noticed it was still a bit mucky. Used the flush again, then filled it up with sprint's home brand ($14 for 6L!) oil and let it idle for about an hour with another flush. Drained and topped it up with the good stuff and just under 2000km later, the oil is still a nice shade of gold.
Saturday, April 29, 2006 - 06:44 pm, by: Mike Triggs(Mikeandimah)
A good idea, flushing, it seemed to disappear as a practice for a long time although garages used to sell "flushing oil" which I used to use on my bikes. I've heard diesel fuel is a fair flushing agent, too. It would be worthwhile mixing with cheap motor oil though.
Saturday, May 06, 2006 - 06:42 pm, by: Braden Murdoch(Ribfeast)
Worked fine in my V6 MX6 when I owned it Only did it once though. Did 10W60 exist when Toyota made the manuals up for these cars? Or was 10W30 the best you could get?
Thursday, June 08, 2006 - 10:22 am, by: Marius Hainal(Torque)
Don't use thinner oil for these engines , you will cause damage and soon will hear clunks and noises ...
They don't specify 10w-30 for nothing. The clearances have been desingned for this oil , and when it heats up , the oil has to be -30. 10must be on startup ... SO yeah , unless you live at the pole , or somewhere where it gets under -10 degrees celsius , don't use 5w-xx .
10w-40 could be OK , but 10w-50 is too thick when warmed up . A friend of mine ran 5w-50 in his FORD ( that's not a car , I know , but in Australia tractors are allowed on the roads presumably ) , and his top end is all loose and noisy now .... And this in about 20,000 kays done on that thin oil ( we found proof inside , metal residue , which never happened when running 20w oil ).
So yeah , oils ain't just oils , gotta still pick what's good for your car.
Friday, June 09, 2006 - 01:43 am, by: Cihan Aday(Cihan)
TT's should use 10-30w or 10-40w. If your turbo's are starting to smoke, move up to a 15-40w or 15-50w and it will go away.
The engine is 15 years old, clearences are not as tight as they once were. I bet half of the 1JZ's on the road today have partially blocked oil pickups.
If your engine is leaky already (rear main seal etc etc), increasing oil pressure isnt the best idea. So I wouldnt use a 10-60 unless you need to.
Im wondering what oil pressure the oil pump explodes at when doing 8000rpm. It might be wise to stick with mobil 1 10-30 if you rev it out often as its good on wear and thin enough to stop bad things related to oil pressure from happening.
Ive tried 5-30, engine hated it. Motul 10-40w and its doing fine. Best ive tried is Mobil 1 10-30.
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(most of the time!), and if it's got oil (of some description), then that's foine!. 
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