Soarer Central: Have replaced my 2JZ-GE Cam Belt...

Soarer Central Mechanical - Common Have replaced my 2JZ-GE Cam Belt...

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Matthew Sharpe
Goo Roo
North Island
JZZ31

Posts: 1260
Reg: 10-2005

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Monday, July 17, 2006 - 05:15 pm, by: Matthew Sharpe (Madmatt)

Well I've finally got around to doing my cam belt and thought I'd post my thoughts while my knuckles are still bleeding...

Started the job at 11:30 on Sunday morning. Had about two hours of interruptions, and finished up for the day at 4:30pm, with everything stripped off bar the tensioner, so about 3 hours work, including a couple of trips to Repco for replacement tools...

Re-started again today at about 1pm and finished my final test drive at about 6:30 pm, so about 5.5 hours to finish it. This included some electrical work I needed to do on the lights.

I'm a pretty slow worker especially when I'm being careful to get it right, but I was quite happy with 8.5 hours for the whole job.

Compared to a 1UZ-FE it was a fairly simple job - lots more room to work - still plenty of sharp bits to stab at your hands though!

First I removed the two front underside covers. With hindsight I could have left the front most cover on.

Then disconnected and removed the battery to give a little more room - probably could have left it in place.

I then drained the radiator. Again, I think the job could have been done without this step, but I wanted to flush the old coolant anyway as I had no idea how old it was. No need at all to remove the radiator.

Then I removed the half-round section from the bottom of the main fan cowling (just clips on), and then removed the rest of the fan cowling.

Removed the V-belt, and the V-belt tensioner

Then off with the fan and the power steering pulley, the top cam cover, revealing an original Toyota cam belt in very good condition (looks like it would have done another 50,000k's easy, but better to be safe than sorry)

Removed the front two spark plugs and discovered both in excellent condition, so decided not to replace them - especially with the $24 per plug price tag at trade!

Then removed the middle cover, for which I had to also remove a solid bracket that ran around the power steering pump area so I could get at one stinking bolt.

Then time to remove the harmonic balancer. Used the starter motor with breaker bar on the ground method, as I was doing it by myself. This worked well, but broke my 22mm socket first time out. I used about a 1 meter extension on the breaker bar and it lifted the front of the car quite high and dug a bit of concrete out of the floor too! Soaked the balancer bolt in CRC while I went to get a new socket.

Got back and tried again and it finally came loose.

Then found that my balancer puller securing bolts were the wrong size, so went out again to find two of the right size.

Off with the balancer, then put it back on loosely and set to 0 degrees TDC and top marks on cam sprockets aligned. Off with the balancer again, then off with the bottom cover.

Removed the cam belt guide from the crank end.

Off with the hydraulic tensioner unit. The back bolt on this was quite tricky to get at (had to get under the car) as the alternator is in the way.

Removed dust cover from tensioner unit, put it in the vice and wound it back to the point where I could slip a small allen key through the hole to hold it in place (Took a LOT of effort with my very small bench vice) and then replaced dust cover (has little holes in it so you can slip it on over the allen key) - inspected the tensioner bearing and it seemed to be in good condition, so left it where it was. Make sure the allen key bend faces the front of the tensioner so you can remove it later.

Removed the old timing belt.

Put new timing belt on working anti clockwise from the top right cam sprocket around. There are 16 notches in the cam belt from sprocket to sprocket, so I worked off this - pretty hard to get it wrong.

Put hydraulic tensioner back on (under the car for that back bolt again) and torque up bolts evenly. Removed allen key with pliers and checked belt tension.

Put bottom cover back on, and harmonic balancer.

Turned the engine over by hand two revolutions and checked that cam and balancer markings still lined up. No problems.

Put everything back together again, torqing harmonic balancer to a whopping 330 Nm (not easy on a automatic! Wedged a very large screwdriver between the power steering pump pulley and that (now handy) heavy duty bracket I had to remove earlier... the serpentine belt started slipping bit I managed to get it torqued up satisfactorily I hope. (300 NM is about 80KG's of force on a half meter breaker bar)

Remembered to re-fill coolant (Toyota Long Life)

Did my electrical investigations (need a new fog light) and then started her up. Ran like CRAP! Panic mode! Realised I had forgotten to push the number 2 plug cap down properly! Doh! Off wit the top cover again, popped the plug cap on properly, cover back on, started - sweet!

Cleaned up my mess and off for a test drive. Seems to be up on power but that's likely just the ECU reset.

Hope that’s of some help to someone else in the future.

Michael Keen
TryHard
NSW
JZZ30

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Monday, July 17, 2006 - 05:50 pm, by: Michael Keen (Jzz30man)

Removing the radiator is advisable. If you took any pics they would be a great help to others and the 1JZ is much the same job.

Matthew Sharpe
Goo Roo
North Island
JZZ31

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Monday, July 17, 2006 - 06:07 pm, by: Matthew Sharpe (Madmatt)

Can't see any reason to remove the radiator. Made sense with the 1UZ, but there is so much space in the 2JZ - might be worth it with the 1JZ as its got a lot more stuff under the hood but it just didn't get in the way at all for me.

Was going to take pictures, but the camera was flat, my fiancee is in the South Island this week working, and I have no idea where she stores the charger.

Michael Keen
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NSW
JZZ30

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Tuesday, July 18, 2006 - 12:51 pm, by: Michael Keen (Jzz30man)

Matthew Sharpe
Goo Roo
North Island
JZZ31

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Tuesday, July 18, 2006 - 01:59 pm, by: Matthew Sharpe (Madmatt)

There was about 15 to 20 CM between the harmonic balancer and the radiator once I had taken the fan cowling off. The balancer puller got quite close to the radiator (as its the generic "huge ass bolt" type) but still a few centimeters to spare. I always work with a couple of towels thrown over the front of the car/down the radiator - mostly for my comfort and to protect the paint, but also protects the radiator core from my wild gesticulations with the tools

Matthew Sharpe
Goo Roo
North Island
JZZ31

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Tuesday, July 18, 2006 - 02:01 pm, by: Matthew Sharpe (Madmatt)

Most swear worthy moment (caused by my general clumseyness) - dropping a 12mm socket down the middle cam-belt cover while torquing up the V-Belt tensioner. Luckily it fell down the inside of the timing belt and I was able to use a magnet to retrieve it.

Michael Keen
TryHard
NSW
JZZ30

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Wednesday, July 19, 2006 - 01:24 pm, by: Michael Keen (Jzz30man)

I stuffed rags down to block the entry so i didn't drop anything down or have to remove the harmonic again. That would be a major pain.

Shaun Stephenson
Tinkerer
Vic
Jzz30 TT

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Thursday, July 20, 2006 - 09:49 am, by: Shaun Stephenson (Neonasty)

Sounds exactly like my experiences with changing my timing belt too. I see you didnt change your water pump (me either) although everyone told me I should. I didnt like the idea of pulling off the cam sprockets in my garage.

I pulled out the radiator so I could give it a bit of a flush, with it removed there is plenty of room for moving things, plus it takes about 5 minutes to remove and refit.

To remove the balancer bolt. We put the breaker bar against the chassis, so it was already secure. Worked a treat!

Matthew Sharpe
Goo Roo
North Island
JZZ31

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Thursday, July 20, 2006 - 11:15 am, by: Matthew Sharpe (Madmatt)

Hmm, good idea with the rags. I just thought I'd be careful, but when I get tired I get clumsy.

Yeah, I thought about the water pump, but whoever owned the car in Japan clearly maintained the cooling system well. What came out of it after flushing was very clean looking, so I decided to leave it. Hopefully I don't regret it later.

Next job is to bleed the brakes.

Michael Keen
TryHard
NSW
JZZ30

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Thursday, July 20, 2006 - 12:36 pm, by: Michael Keen (Jzz30man)

I recommend you keep a keen eye on the drip hole un the underside of the shaft for those water pumps. Initially you will lose water slowly. I don't imagine the pumps will last the 100K till the timing belt is ready for replacement again.
I have a 2J with 40K on the clock and i'll be changing the timing belt and water pump before i drop it in my car.

Matthew Sharpe
Goo Roo
North Island
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Thursday, July 20, 2006 - 01:41 pm, by: Matthew Sharpe (Madmatt)

Thats good to know

Matthew Werner
TryHard
Qld
jzz30 TT

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Friday, November 12, 2010 - 09:09 pm, by: Matthew Werner (Matto_888)

8.5 hrs labour = $850 - $900 that u saved urself by DIY

well done

Matthew Sharpe
Goo Roo
North Island
JZZ31

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Saturday, November 13, 2010 - 05:36 am, by: Matthew Sharpe (Madmatt)

And here I am, 4 years later coming up for another timing belt change - the water pump is still OK, so I will change it this time of course. So thats a 200,000km water pump!

Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

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Saturday, November 27, 2010 - 08:23 pm, by: Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain)

You should look at changing Crank and cam seals this time whilst it is off , and top and bottom radiator hoses . They are cheap as from toyota and worth it, specially if your up to 200k now

Will se it to 300 surely .

Matthew Werner
TryHard
Qld
jzz30 TT

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Sunday, November 28, 2010 - 01:04 am, by: Matthew Werner (Matto_888)

yep good idea... just take care putting the cam seals in right as its a real bitch when they leak after you have it running again ;P

whats the highest odo reading on a standard 1uz on SC.... would be worth finding out i think

Ali Saeed
Goo Roo
WA
UZZ31

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Sunday, November 28, 2010 - 03:25 am, by: Ali Saeed (Ali)

Matthew Werner wrote on Friday, November 12, 2010 - 09:09 pm:
8.5 hrs labour = $850 - $900 that u saved urself by DIY well done

good shop shouldnt take more than 4/5 hours. my v8 was done for around $450, 5 hours. 2jz should be easier(?)

Matthew Sharpe
Goo Roo
North Island
JZZ31

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Sunday, November 28, 2010 - 05:21 am, by: Matthew Sharpe (Madmatt)

Good advice Daniel & Matt.

Yes, Ali, took me 20 hours to do my UZZ30! Mind you it was the first time I'd tackled such a job. Was pretty happy with how much easier the 2JZ was.

Daniel Blomfield
TryHard
South Island
Soarer Limited V8 UZZ31

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Sunday, November 28, 2010 - 06:27 am, by: Daniel Blomfield (Soarer_nz)

mine would have to be up there at about 254000kms but I am uncertain if it's the original motor cause it still preforms extremely well and the oil barely looses colour between oi changes. runs like a dream if the kms are legit

Matthew Werner
TryHard
Qld
jzz30 TT

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Sunday, November 28, 2010 - 12:37 pm, by: Matthew Werner (Matto_888)

Matthew Sharpe wrote on Sunday, November 28, 2010 - 05:21 am:
good shop shouldnt take more than 4/5 hours. my v8 was done for around $450, 5 hours. 2jz should be easier(?)

*good shop* mhmm for those lucky people that find one... either that or pay (i'll say it again PAY) one of their mechanic mates to do it in their own time...... yea it will be 4-5 hrs without a carton involved.....

and yes a 2j will be quicker because A: theres only one cam to line up, and B: theres slightly less •••• in the way of the belt.....

254k.... wow daniel thats not bad...
please bear in mind that the old the engine gets the more frequently you should be changing oil and filter...

ok we have 254k..... lol anyone???

Matthew Werner
TryHard
Qld
jzz30 TT

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Sunday, November 28, 2010 - 12:44 pm, by: Matthew Werner (Matto_888)

Michael Keen wrote on Monday, July 17, 2006 - 05:50 pm:
Put new timing belt on working anti clockwise from the top right cam sprocket around. There are 16 notches in the cam belt from sprocket to sprocket, so I worked off this - pretty hard to get it wrong.

Can i add a step here....
just to make it blonde proof... (me proof)
if you set TDC and then mark the old belt with liquid paper and the corresponding cam teeth.. you can transfer the marks onto the new belt and double,triple and quaddroople check that your definately right... then all you have to do is slap the belt on with the white marks lined up...

followed by

Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

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Monday, November 29, 2010 - 07:38 am, by: Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain)

OR you can buy a Genuine brand new Toyota cam belt which comes with WHITE marks already on it to correspond with the timing marks needed for it all to match up ;)

Much easier

Matthew Werner
TryHard
Qld
jzz30 TT

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Monday, November 29, 2010 - 06:58 pm, by: Matthew Werner (Matto_888)

Daniel Clarke wrote on Monday, November 29, 2010 - 07:38 am:
OR you can buy a Genuine brand new Toyota cam belt which comes with WHITE marks already on it to correspond with the timing marks needed for it all to match up ;)

Much easier

I LIKE.... yes indeed lol