Soarer Central: Sound system with factory headunit?

Soarer Central ICE - In Car Entertainment ICE Chat Sound system with factory headunit?

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Khan Islam
TryHard
VIC
JZZ31 3 Ltr VVTi

Posts: 136
Reg: 04-2006

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Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 03:53 pm, by: Khan Islam (Khan)

hey guys...i am looking into puting some sound system in my car. I want to keep the factory headunit with Pioneer GM6200f 4 chnl AMP, Pioneer 306C 12" and pioneer TSD 161s rear speakers. I dont have the factory subwoofer. My concern is how good the quality would be with factory CD player. I am not fuss about loudness, clarity is important. I was quoted $1000 including installation by JB HI Fi. Any advice will be appreciated. Cheers

Ben Socratous
DieHard
SA
Iv'e started to put my interior back together!!!

Posts: 847
Reg: 07-2005

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Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 05:08 pm, by: Ben Socratous (Socrates)

The head unit is often the weakest link in the chain. That is a broad generalistion as my car didn't come with the factory head unit, just a comment from the cars I have had in the past.

Unless you have the Nakamachi (spelling?) head unit, I'd be more inclined to get a new head unit before you go and spend money on the rest of the system. At least then you'll have equalisation, crossover and mp3 functions.

Rob Andreacchio
Moderator
Victoria
Supercharged VT Calais & 1991 JZZ30

Posts: 1873
Reg: 01-2005

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Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 06:44 pm, by: Rob Andreacchio (Reepa)

agreed.. I would be replacing head units before replacing factory speakers!

Phil Stuart
Tinkerer
NSW
Soarer 1x TT JZZ30, 1 x RAV4 and a pork chop

Posts: 48
Reg: 10-2006

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Monday, October 30, 2006 - 07:40 pm, by: Phil Stuart (Ericdog)

Ben/Rob are right on !! When I bought my soarer, it had a (lower range) pioneer head unit in it, and I replaced it with a JVC unit that I bought off one of the guys off this forum and there was a huge difference.

The standard speakers will make a nice, loud, clear sound when driven by a quality head unit.

It wont win any of these "blow your brains out" competitions, but the clarity and "warmth of sound" increased greatly by upgrading the head unit first.

Peter Bullman
Tinkerer
NSW
SC400

Posts: 73
Reg: 06-2006

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Tuesday, October 31, 2006 - 08:16 pm, by: Peter Bullman (Pete)

Best way to keep your factory deck and install amps would by using a unit from Audio Control called a LC6i. It is a line-driver with high to low level conversion. We use a lot of them in vehicles like BA falcons and Commodores that want to either retain the screen or steering controls!!

You can view the specs here:

http://www.mobileaudiocontrol.com/dept.asp?d_id=17612&l1=17612

I'll be using the DQL8 in my SC400 as it also incorporates a graphic equaliser and AUX input, hence having full control over amps AND a TVIX unit..

We sell the LC6i for about $269 at Strathfield in Wollongong... The DQL8 is closer to about $1200.

Rob Andreacchio
Moderator
Victoria
Supercharged VT Calais & 1991 JZZ30

Posts: 1971
Reg: 01-2005

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Tuesday, October 31, 2006 - 08:48 pm, by: Rob Andreacchio (Reepa)

$269 when you can do the same thing with a soldering iron, side cutters and 5 RCA's... I know which way I would prefer.

Peter Bullman
Tinkerer
NSW
SC400

Posts: 75
Reg: 06-2006

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Friday, November 03, 2006 - 11:34 pm, by: Peter Bullman (Pete)

Rob Andreacchio wrote on Tuesday, October 31, 2006 - 08:48 pm:
269 when you can do the same thing with a soldering iron, side cutters and 5 RCA's...

Not exactly

Rob Andreacchio
Moderator
Victoria
Supercharged VT Calais & 1991 JZZ30

Posts: 1976
Reg: 01-2005

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Saturday, November 04, 2006 - 07:55 am, by: Rob Andreacchio (Reepa)

most of the guys on here would not spend $269 when they can do what they want with $20...

They want to run aftermarket amps with an EMV setup.... it's cheap and easy and works fine...

Trent Osborne
Tinkerer
florida
sc300 na.sc400tt

Posts: 18
Reg: 11-2006

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Saturday, January 27, 2007 - 06:11 am, by: Trent Osborne (Sc250tt)

any body knows how to do this . i did it to my sc300 and it had so much statics i had to put back in the factory amp .i spliced my rca's from the amp .i was wondering if i spliced it in from the head unit itself the statics would go away .anybody had a diagram of the sc300/soarer head unit wiring?

Peter Bullman
TryHard
NSW
SC400

Posts: 106
Reg: 06-2006

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Saturday, January 27, 2007 - 09:11 am, by: Peter Bullman (Pete)

Use what I said on my previous post!

Jose-Antonio Castillo
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer VVTi

Posts: 1100
Reg: 07-2005

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Sunday, January 28, 2007 - 07:59 pm, by: Jose-Antonio Castillo (Ahh_soarer)

I swapped out my head unit with an aftermarket deck connected to my factory audio system (factory amps, speakers and woofer) and it rocks, I'd probably be hard pressed to find something with the right amount of doof to sound and feel nice without causing rattling (when I say nice I mean a sub that will emit an on-going shimmer through the seats rather than causing a heart seizure).

Brian Timms
Tinkerer
New South Wales
TT Soarer Goodness.

Posts: 58
Reg: 12-2006

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Monday, January 29, 2007 - 10:41 am, by: Brian Timms (Turbo_brian)

Trent, when you are installing aftermarket amps, you need to get the sound signal as clean as possible, which is only achievable by either wiring directly from the headunit (the wires from the headunit loom), or as Peter keeps on incisting, using LOC's (Line Converters).

My personal Choice is to use LOC's, as these take the signal from the head unit, and they have built in filters which clean any of the static up.

The LOC will then connect directly to RCA leads, which will run untouched to your amp, and feed the nice clean signal to your amps.

Also consider your grounding points with regards to the amp, the grounding vable run should be as short as possible (never more than 1 meter in length), and the cable should be equal or thicker than the cable attached to your +ive power cable on the amp.

By using LOCs and grounding correctly, the amp will be at it's most efficient, and both your ears and your wallet will be happier in the long run, instead of installing, having to revert back, and then re-installing.

B.

Benny Gammelmark
Goo Roo
NSW
V8 UZZ31

Posts: 1816
Reg: 07-2005

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Monday, January 29, 2007 - 08:01 pm, by: Benny Gammelmark (Oldfield)

Imagine that, I need a zero gauge grounding cable.

Peter Bullman
TryHard
NSW
SC400

Posts: 109
Reg: 06-2006

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Tuesday, January 30, 2007 - 11:23 am, by: Peter Bullman (Pete)

Brian Timms wrote on Monday, January 29, 2007 - 10:41 am:
Trent, when you are installing aftermarket amps, you need to get the sound signal as clean as possible, which is only achievable by either wiring directly from the headunit (the wires from the headunit loom), or as Peter keeps on incisting, using LOC's (Line Converters).

My personal Choice is to use LOC's, as these take the signal from the head unit, and they have built in filters which clean any of the static up.

The LOC will then connect directly to RCA leads, which will run untouched to your amp, and feed the nice clean signal to your amps.

Also consider your grounding points with regards to the amp, the grounding vable run should be as short as possible (never more than 1 meter in length), and the cable should be equal or thicker than the cable attached to your +ive power cable on the amp.

By using LOCs and grounding correctly, the amp will be at it's most efficient, and both your ears and your wallet will be happier in the long run, instead of installing, having to revert back, and then re-installing.

At least someone agrees with me...