Wednesday, August 31, 2005 - 10:32 pm, by: Anthony Wah Day(Naastee)
Hi guys and gals,
Was wondering if anyone knew or has pictures of other soarers having 2x sub's in the boot, the standard system is good, but iam getting tied of the crappy bass.
Or can someone help me in some fibre glass work in the book (instructions)
Thursday, September 01, 2005 - 01:38 am, by: Avin Luther(Lex_luther)
put a better sub in the shelf. a good 10 inch in teh cabin will be as good as 2 12s behind the petrol tank. it also saves you a heap of already limited boot space.
i used to have a 15inch kicker in the boot of my old car, i now have a pioneer 10 in the soarer parcel shelf and am satisfied. i have also grown up a couple of years aswell so this may distort this bass satisfaction. go for better quality compnents and good installation rather than large capacity crap! the same reason why i drive a soarer not a 5.7l
Thursday, September 01, 2005 - 01:43 am, by: Benny Gammelmark(Oldfield)
The other problem you have if you put them in the boot is timing. You will have to delay all your other speakers in the car to get the sound from the subs to arrive at your head at the same time.
I've got a 10 inch HART in the shelf and it sounds good.
Thursday, September 01, 2005 - 08:52 am, by: James Harris(Haro)
I was considering 2 subs in the rear of my Soarer for some REAL bass, but i couldn't afford 2 mono block amps at the time.
I have posted this pic a few times, but it is really a good spot for the sub as its out of the way *still have a boot* and utilises the heap of space behind the rear quarter panel as a "box"
The guy who did it for me said that i could have another on the other side no worries, but would have to move the jack and stuff *easy*
It would also be a good idea not to have them pointing right at each other as then they cant bass load too well, angle them both towards boot perhaps ?
Anyways, good luck.... and remember you dont have to sacrifice a whole boot for some bass
Thursday, September 01, 2005 - 10:30 am, by: Troy Tappenden(Moredhel)
James, you don't need 2 mono block amplifiers to run 2 subwoofers. If you get 1 mono amplifier that can handle 2 ohm loads, then you can just run the subs in Parallel. Or if the amp can only handle 4 ohm loads, you just buy 2 x 8 ohm subwoofers and put in Parallel. Or you could buy 2 dual 4ohm voice coil subwoofers and run each voice coil on series, then each subwoofer in parallel. This will also achieve 4 ohms resistance over the whole setup.
For those not in-the-know I will break it down a little bit.
Series connections: To connect 2 subwoofers in series on a mono block amplifier you will connect the +ve from the amp to the +ve of subwoofer A, then from the -ve of subwoofer A to the +ve of subwoofer B. Then from the -ve of Subwoofer B to the -ve on the amplifier. Series connections will double your resistance across the connection. For example, with 2 x 4 ohm subwoofers in Series, you will have 8ohms resistance across the connection.
Parallel Connections: To connect 2 subwoofers to a mono block amplifier in Parallel, connect the +ve of subwoofers A and B to the same +ve terminal on the amplifier. Then connect the -ve's of subwoofers A and B to the same -ve terminal on the amplifier. Parallel connections will halve the resistance of the connections. For example, 2 subwoofers, both with 4 ohms resistance in Parallel will make 2 ohms resistance once joined.
Hence if you use 2 dual voice coil 4 ohm subwoofers and put each voice coil in series, each subwoofer then has 8 ohms resistance per subwoofer across the 2 voice coils. If you then put both of those subwoofers in Parallel, it halves the 8 ohms of both subwoofers an makes them 4 ohms resistance.
Thursday, September 01, 2005 - 11:25 am, by: Anthony Wah Day(Naastee)
well i have 2 alpine type s subs' which run off a mono block,
guys is ther any way i could replace the 6x9's (cutting some more out tho) and putting in 2x ten subs instead, means i would be cutting out the midrange, but would still sound ok
Daniel Habib Tinkerer Shopping for a manual turbo...
Thursday, September 01, 2005 - 11:41 am, by: Daniel Habib(Listen)
you cant't really do that anthony. the frequency range that your 6x9's play are completely different to what your 10" subs will play. do you have other music speakers in the install? if not, you'd basically be eliminating your source of music - and all you'd have would be bass...
just as a general comparison for you: 6x9 speakers will play frequencies from around 80Hz up to over 20,000.. your 10" sub will play from about 40Hz up to around 80-100Hz. as you can see, if you get rid of the 6x9's, you're effectively getting rid of all music that plays in the 100hz-20,000 range - which 99% of music is (all vocals, instruments, sounds, beats etc - pretty much everything except the bass!)..
Thursday, September 01, 2005 - 02:34 pm, by: Mark Paddick(Sparks)
One good 10" sub in the parcel shelf and amp to suit is all you need. Those who heard mine on the weekend will be able to tell you that it is all that is required. Jaycar sell the sub for $179 (CS-2278) and the amp for $250 (AA-0424). That sub has a resonant frequency of 31Hz (measured by me) when fitted to the parcel shelf.
Thursday, September 01, 2005 - 03:00 pm, by: Avin Luther(Lex_luther)
Do what Mark says, he knows best. Oh and if you are getting good clean bass from a good sub (10inch in the parcel shelf) dont bother with 6 by 9s, they are for Geminis who dont have room for a sub. get a good set of splits. A good 6 inch will play down to 100hz and all the midrange punch you need, then get good tweeters with adjustable cross overs and you have a strong clean system without having to cut your parcel shelf to fit clumsy 6 by 9s.
Thursday, September 01, 2005 - 04:34 pm, by: Ben Folkes(Ben05)
I havent heard a soarer sound system before as i need to get my emv fixed, but from reading this i might now get the jaycar sub and amp. Would the front speakers need upgrading? Also Mark, is it as simple as swapping the old amp for the new, or more involved?
Thursday, September 01, 2005 - 07:10 pm, by: Mark Paddick(Sparks)
Basically it's swapping old for new....practically that can be painfull. The new sub needs the hole to be enlarged (tin snips--easy) as it has straight sides where the sloping sides of the standard sub don't need such a large hole. The mounting bracket has to be filed to make the new speaker fit and the whole lot needs to be spaced up to clear the fuel tank. The new amp is much larger so needs to have brackets made to fit it under the parcel shelf. I also ran a new power wire from the battery for it. The whole lot took me a day and a half. The front speakers are pretty good. Start by fitting proper 12dB/octave crossovers between the main speaker and tweeter (Jaycar CX-2614, $15 ea). There are better tweeters readily available (Jaycar CS-2210, $45 pair) but finding a better 4.5" Mid/Bass for the door will not be easy, or cheap, or even really necessary.
Friday, September 02, 2005 - 08:29 am, by: James Harris(Haro)
Troy,
Yeh i realised that, but if i did have another sub i would want another amp to run it.... nothing like 3 amps in a car to confuse things.
My Sub is running at 4ohm, *not the sub in pic* i have a New Series Kicker CVR sub with a Pioneer mono Block , goes pretty well, but as everybody knows , the soarer has some serious padded seats and all sorts of deadining so not a brain crushing bass.
Anyways,
Good luck with the sub / speakers / stereo install .
Daniel Habib Tinkerer Shopping for a manual turbo...
Friday, September 02, 2005 - 09:56 am, by: Daniel Habib(Listen)
although jaycar stuff is decent budget stuff, i'd be more inclined to go for something a bit better, esp in a soarer.. also, when using the stock sub location, are you keeping as a free-air setup?
Friday, September 02, 2005 - 12:20 pm, by: Daniel Habib(Listen)
there are a few 10" subs on the market these days that'll work well in a fairly small sealed enclosure (as small as 0.5cu/ft).. i guess it just depends on how much room there is, but if there's enough mounting depth to fit the sub, technically there should be enough room to fit a box too!?
Friday, September 02, 2005 - 01:20 pm, by: Daniel Habib(Listen)
yah free air seems the easier option i guess.. but i've never done things easy when it comes to systems! i'll just see what i can fit once my soarer gets here..
Friday, September 02, 2005 - 06:50 pm, by: Mark Paddick(Sparks)
I will say this only one more time; When it comes to amplifiers and subs; JAYCAR STUFF IS EQUAL TO OR BETTER THAN ANYTHING YOU CAN GET ANYWHERE AT ANY PRICE
Friday, September 02, 2005 - 06:56 pm, by: Mark Paddick(Sparks)
Oh, and can someone tell me please; just WTF exactly is a "free air" Sub??? ...apart from some fancy advertising bullshit dreamt up by so-called high end advertisers.
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I will break it down a little bit. 
