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Kyle Wathen
Tinkerer
Vic
GTTL

Posts: 66
Reg: 02-2007

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Monday, May 07, 2007 - 04:54 pm, by:  Kyle Wathen (Cspot) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I connected my amp it has power and the green light comes on and the protection light stays off, so far so good.

I connected the RCA's to the headunit and speaker wire to the sub/splits.

However i get no sound out of the sub/speakers, when i put my ear up to the tweeters i can hear noise coming from them like when you have the radio on but not tuned to any station and it just makes that hssssss noise.

I can't figure out where i have gone wrong, its like there is no signal from the headunit or the RCA aern't working.

The RCA connections on the amp have Input/Ouput im not sure which to connect the sub RCA or front speaker RCA too so i tried switching them around it made no difference.

What could be possible causes of this problem?

Also i have the Jaycar 10" sub running of the Jaycar 4x100wrms amp. Should i wire up the sub like this?


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Shane McInnes
Goo Roo
NSW
JZZ30 GT-TL Manual

Posts: 1059
Reg: 07-2005

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Monday, May 07, 2007 - 05:09 pm, by:  Shane McInnes (Soarin_tt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Heres a stupid question, Did you connect the wire from the amp to the headunit (remote wire) or something like that?
Kyle Wathen
Tinkerer
Vic
GTTL

Posts: 67
Reg: 02-2007

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Monday, May 07, 2007 - 05:19 pm, by:  Kyle Wathen (Cspot) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Yep i did Shane, if that wasn't connected properly then the amp wouldn't power on would it? or does the green light on the amp still come on even if the remote wire isnt connected properly?
Leon Wright
DieHard
WA
V8 UZZ31

Posts: 725
Reg: 08-2006

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Monday, May 07, 2007 - 06:30 pm, by:  Leon Wright (Techman) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I would think the light would come on when the amp is powered.

As a quick test (without ripping wiring up, unless you already have..)

Grab a RCA -> 3.5mm headphone cable, known working one and plug the rca's into an amp, grab a mp3 player or a small radio and extension lead, then power it all up and see if that works.

You can test the RCA's with a multi meter or grab a rca gender bender and do the same test as the previous, pluging one end of the rca's into the amp and one into the gender bender. (gender bender is a pair of of double ended female rca plugs)
Brian Timms
TryHard
New South Wales
TT Soarer Goodness.

Posts: 323
Reg: 12-2006

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Monday, May 07, 2007 - 10:32 pm, by:  Brian Timms (Turbo_brian) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Screw testing with the Radio.

Grap a CD, use this. You can be sure a CD has music on it, you cant tell if a radio is playing music, dribling advertising garbage, or funny enough, isn't tuned in properly.

Anyway, as mentioned, take of the remote wire and see what happens, if the green lights on the amp stay on, then there is a chance the green light indicated the amp has perminant power, and not just remote signal activation.

In in doubt, grab a $15 multimeter from DickSmith and check voltage across +ive and Ground to see from 11.3 volts to 14.3 volts, and then test the ground and remote wire to hopefully see 12+ volts nominal.

If you dont see 12v on the remote, then jumper it from the +ive to remote, this will activate the amps.

B.
Brian Timms
TryHard
New South Wales
TT Soarer Goodness.

Posts: 324
Reg: 12-2006

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Monday, May 07, 2007 - 10:33 pm, by:  Brian Timms (Turbo_brian) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ohhh, and if you jumper the +ive to remote, Remove the remote wire FIRST, we dont want to pass 12V+ to the head unit.

B.
Kyle Wathen
Tinkerer
Vic
GTTL

Posts: 68
Reg: 02-2007

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Monday, May 07, 2007 - 11:24 pm, by:  Kyle Wathen (Cspot) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks guys all sorted once again it was a simple wiring mistake on my behalf, all good though its my first install so it wouldnt be right if it all went smoothly

Can anyone tell me if the wiring setup for my sub (2ohms) in the first post would be ok. Im running it off the 4x100wrms Jaycar amp...
Rob Andreacchio
Goo Roo
Victoria
Supercharged VT Calais & 1991 JZZ30

Posts: 2653
Reg: 01-2005

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Monday, May 07, 2007 - 11:27 pm, by:  Rob Andreacchio (Reepa) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

there are many ways to wire up a DVC sub woofer... Are you wanting to run the sub at 2ohm or 4ohm... it's all in the wiring.. you should check the web for more detailed info!
Kyle Wathen
Tinkerer
Vic
GTTL

Posts: 69
Reg: 02-2007

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Tuesday, May 08, 2007 - 02:31 pm, by:  Kyle Wathen (Cspot) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Well i'm new to car audio stuff and basically just want to set my system up so i can get the best sound out of it for what i've got.

Amp Specs:
Power / channel @ 4ohm 14.4V: 130WRMS x 4
Power / channel @ 2ohm 14.4V: 190WRMS x 4
Power / bridged @ 4ohm 14.4V: 380WRMS x 2
Signal/Noise ratio: >90dB
Input sensitivity: 200mV to 5V
Low pass filter: 50 - 500Hz @ 12dB/octave
High pass filter: 50 - 500Hz @ 12dB/octave
Pass thru RCA: Yes
Dimensions: 400(L) x 258(W) x 50mm(D)

Sub Specs:
Power Handling: 250WRMS
Impedance: 4ohms (dual voice coil)
Voice Coil Resistance: 1.7ohm
Vas: 26.950Ltr
Qms: 3.788
Qes: 0.452
Qts: 0.404
Sensitivity: 87.105dB/Wm
BL: 9.941 TM
Fo: 38.258Hz
Sd: 346.36 sqCM

Splits Specs:
Peak Power Handling 150 Watt
Frequency Response 74 Hz - 20 kHz
Sensitivity 90 dB
Impedance 4 ohm (Dual Coil)


Now the above is all jibberish to me I have no idea what it means, so if someone can tell me the best way to wire the sub up that would be awesome. The site below shows me how to wire subs im just not sure which is the best way to wire it up with my above amp/sub combo.

http://www.crutchfield.com/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html

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