Monday, May 07, 2007 - 04:54 pm, by: Kyle Wathen(Cspot)
I connected my amp it has power and the green light comes on and the protection light stays off, so far so good.
I connected the RCA's to the headunit and speaker wire to the sub/splits.
However i get no sound out of the sub/speakers, when i put my ear up to the tweeters i can hear noise coming from them like when you have the radio on but not tuned to any station and it just makes that hssssss noise.
I can't figure out where i have gone wrong, its like there is no signal from the headunit or the RCA aern't working.
The RCA connections on the amp have Input/Ouput im not sure which to connect the sub RCA or front speaker RCA too so i tried switching them around it made no difference.
What could be possible causes of this problem?
Also i have the Jaycar 10" sub running of the Jaycar 4x100wrms amp. Should i wire up the sub like this?
Monday, May 07, 2007 - 05:19 pm, by: Kyle Wathen(Cspot)
Yep i did Shane, if that wasn't connected properly then the amp wouldn't power on would it? or does the green light on the amp still come on even if the remote wire isnt connected properly?
Monday, May 07, 2007 - 06:30 pm, by: Leon Wright(Techman)
I would think the light would come on when the amp is powered.
As a quick test (without ripping wiring up, unless you already have..)
Grab a RCA -> 3.5mm headphone cable, known working one and plug the rca's into an amp, grab a mp3 player or a small radio and extension lead, then power it all up and see if that works.
You can test the RCA's with a multi meter or grab a rca gender bender and do the same test as the previous, pluging one end of the rca's into the amp and one into the gender bender. (gender bender is a pair of of double ended female rca plugs)
Brian Timms TryHard New South Wales TT Soarer Goodness.
Monday, May 07, 2007 - 10:32 pm, by: Brian Timms(Turbo_brian)
Screw testing with the Radio.
Grap a CD, use this. You can be sure a CD has music on it, you cant tell if a radio is playing music, dribling advertising garbage, or funny enough, isn't tuned in properly.
Anyway, as mentioned, take of the remote wire and see what happens, if the green lights on the amp stay on, then there is a chance the green light indicated the amp has perminant power, and not just remote signal activation.
In in doubt, grab a $15 multimeter from DickSmith and check voltage across +ive and Ground to see from 11.3 volts to 14.3 volts, and then test the ground and remote wire to hopefully see 12+ volts nominal.
If you dont see 12v on the remote, then jumper it from the +ive to remote, this will activate the amps.
B.
Brian Timms TryHard New South Wales TT Soarer Goodness.
Monday, May 07, 2007 - 11:24 pm, by: Kyle Wathen(Cspot)
Thanks guys all sorted once again it was a simple wiring mistake on my behalf, all good though its my first install so it wouldnt be right if it all went smoothly
Can anyone tell me if the wiring setup for my sub (2ohms) in the first post would be ok. Im running it off the 4x100wrms Jaycar amp...
Rob Andreacchio Goo Roo Victoria Supercharged VT Calais & 1991 JZZ30
there are many ways to wire up a DVC sub woofer... Are you wanting to run the sub at 2ohm or 4ohm... it's all in the wiring.. you should check the web for more detailed info!
Splits Specs: Peak Power Handling 150 Watt Frequency Response 74 Hz - 20 kHz Sensitivity 90 dB Impedance 4 ohm (Dual Coil)
Now the above is all jibberish to me I have no idea what it means, so if someone can tell me the best way to wire the sub up that would be awesome. The site below shows me how to wire subs im just not sure which is the best way to wire it up with my above amp/sub combo.