Sunday, September 02, 2007 - 11:51 pm, by: Anthony Taylor(Ant)
hey guys,
Long time reader, first time poster. anyway, i've got a tt with the stock sub and amp. i am looking to fit a sub and amp that i got as a present and just want some advice on how to get it done. cause if im going to a shop i'd like to say "here, this is exactly what i want done" to keep costs down and avoid screwups.
The sub is a Boston Acoustics ProSeries 12.5LF 12inch 50W rms 1200W peak 4ohm dual coil
The amp is a Boston Acoustics 2-Channel
Multi-Ch. Power @ 4-ohm (12.6VDC) 2x120W
Multi-Ch. Power @ 2-ohm (12.6VDC) 2x200W
Dual-Mono Power @ 4-ohm(12.6VDC) 1x440W
Dual-Mono Power @ 2-ohm (12.6VDC) 1x750W
Frequency Response (-3dB) 10Hz-95kHz
I really have no idea of how exactly to do it all, i was thinking of replacing the sub/sub amp with my new ones and leaving the stock amp to run the speakers but i dont know of how it works well enough so i have come seeking advice. (I have tried the search tool and read all i can find, but would like some direct advice.)
Thursday, September 06, 2007 - 09:37 pm, by: Anthony Taylor(Ant)
can somebody give me something?? im guessing maybe i would run it as 2 channels one for the sub and one for the rear speakers? would it be worth keeping the stock amp in place to run the front speakers, as you can probably tell i really am hopeless
Thursday, September 06, 2007 - 10:25 pm, by: Tim Appleton(Timbo)
That sub has dual voice coils so you have a couple of options. Normally your priorities with car audio are to get good sound from the front speakers, and get good sound from your sub. The only time rear speakers are of any value is if you can't fit a sub and need to run 6"x9"s. Don't bother trying to power the rear speakers, you'd want two channels to go to them anyway.
Options for the sub are:
- run a voice coil to each channel of the sub. Will only send 240W to the sub so it will be quiet but the sound quality will be the best you can get from the setup. Might be a bit hard on the amp.
- run both voice coils in parallel to a bridged channel from the amp (both channels running as one channel to give max power). This will give you much more SPL out of the sub but the sound quality won't be as good as the latter option, it still could be quite good considering the brand of components.
You have a couple of options for mounting the sub:
- mount it in the parcel tray like the factory item. You need a new parcel tray fabricated and sub doesn't benefit from an enclosure unless you sound proof and seal all of the boot.
- mount it in a box in the boot. Cheapish, easy to install and remove. Check the documentation for optimum enclosure size. Sound has to travel through the back seat.
The input to your new amp will probably have to come from the input lines to the existing sub amp. The existing sub amp will be mounted under the parcel tray above the fuel tank. Another more expensive option is a line converter, but you shouldn't really need one of these as the signal wires are already there. I suggest www.lextreme.com for wiring diagrams of the existing system.