Sunday, November 20, 2005 - 06:04 pm, by: Jason Kingsmill(Jason_k)
Well...I FINALLY got around to installing those tweeters and crossovers you sold me, today Mark.
DAMN it's a big difference. It sounds beautiful now, not harsh like before. I tested it with just the crossovers and not the tweeters also. Better, but the tweeters do top it off I think.
Now all I can hear is the muddy sounding rears. I must do something about that soon.
For anyone wanting a really cheap stereo upgrade, DO IT! Very much worth it for ~$50. You can also do a bit of plastics repair on the door skin/window surround while you're at it. I replaced the passenger door pocket I've had sitting around since I bought the car also.
Basically, just remove the door skin and the window surround bit. Undo the 2 10mm bolts holding the tweeter mount on. Unscrew the standard tweeter from the mount. Screw the mount back on and replace the window surround, In order to get the new tweeters to fit, you must remove the tweeter from the casing. I had to cut it up, as it was glued way too tight to simply remove. With the window surround in place, it makes it easier to align the tweeter in the correct position. Push the wires down through the window surround, and glue the tweeters magnet to the tweeter mount. Then just start cutting/soldering the speaker wires to the new crossover. Repeat for the other door, and voila! Excellent quality audio in an hour(a few hours if you're like me and pedantic about repairing all the plastic bits on the door skin).
It doesn't have as much punch as it did before, as the crossover would be working the tweeter at a higher frequency than the standard one. Much less harsh on the ears, and a lot less distortion at moderate power levels.
You could always use different crossovers if it's not to your taste.
Sunday, November 20, 2005 - 06:46 pm, by: Mark Paddick(Sparks)
My standard answer to upgrading the Soarer stereo. Replace the tweeters with something a bit better and fit crossovers between them and the door speakers. Jason got the bits from me when he was here a while ago.
Another way to go is to use the Kevlar 6.5" splits in the rear but fit the supplied crossovers and tweeters to the front.
Monday, November 21, 2005 - 02:36 am, by: Avin Luther(Lex_luther)
mark is there a small 2 channel amp (and cheap) available through jaycar that would fit between my headunit and the tweeters? eg under the glove box? my 4 channel is running the sub and the rears. I have jaycar crossovers and pioneer tweeters. the current set up requires me to set the fader all the way to the front to combat the powered rears, front is currently off a pioneer headunit, with 3 preouts. Cheers
Monday, November 21, 2005 - 09:24 am, by: Mark Paddick(Sparks)
The smaller Jaycar 2 x 80 watt amp is cheap and would do the job but it is no small enough to go under the glove box, maybe under the seat? Amp is type AA-0420 and is $169 retail (cheaper on EBay)The only problem I have with these amps is their size and where to mount them in a Soarer. At least the 80W amp is smaller than the others (and can deliver 2 x 100WRMS into 2 ohms)
Monday, November 21, 2005 - 10:57 am, by: James Johnson(Jamesy)
i read in a magazine that there is 3 stereo system types
170-watt system 210-watt system with sub 280-watt system with sub
how do you tell what type you have got?? i know you can tell you have the better system if it has the sub but how you tell the differance between the 210 and 280 watt system?
Monday, November 21, 2005 - 11:21 am, by: Mark Paddick(Sparks)
280 Watt system has the large heatsink on the main amp. It was only available on US cars as far as I know (at least I've never seen one in a Soarer, only US spec SC400s)
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