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Ryan Pollard
TryHard
SA
JZZ30 Soarer

Posts: 101
Reg: 05-2006

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Sunday, January 29, 2012 - 02:58 pm, by:  Ryan Pollard (Gztwenty) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Any body wired up the stock 8" sub and amp to an aftermarket unit?
Would like to get away with it if possible.
I haven't yet tried to track down the sub cables behind the dash.
Mike Triggs
Goo Roo
Western NSW
3.0GT G-Pack

Posts: 1716
Reg: 07-2005

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Wednesday, February 01, 2012 - 07:14 pm, by:  Mike Triggs (Mikeandimah) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I don't remember what a stock amp looks like, my present Soarer doesn't have one, but I imagine it just has its own wiring harness and plugs like the speakers. To get from HU to amp you'd have to convert the lines (presumably RCA) from the new head unit to whatever the stock amp has as input- but you'd need to be careful of voltage, as most head unit RCA output is around 2V.
Aiden Cheese
Goo Roo
QLD
Soarer jzz30

Posts: 1072
Reg: 09-2009

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Thursday, February 02, 2012 - 12:11 pm, by:  Aiden Cheese (Chillpen) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The sub runs at a different ohm to most common subwoofers/speakers so the best bet is to check to reuse the stock amp. I think it's just a high level input amp so you might just be able to run speaker wire to it.

Someone here might know. I pulled out the stock cd stacker and replaced it with some amplifiers and ran an aftermarket 8" sub which worked ok.

I thought the stock sub was closer to a 10"?
Ryan Pollard
TryHard
SA
JZZ30 Soarer

Posts: 108
Reg: 05-2006

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Thursday, February 02, 2012 - 12:19 pm, by:  Ryan Pollard (Gztwenty) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

As far as I know it's an 8". Someone has a thread here about installing an 8" with amp, but thought if mine worked okay, then I would just run it from the head unit. I THINK you can just run the wires for the sub at the dash and bridge the speaker output from the head unit. But I'm not 100% sure on this.

As I said, failing that I'll yank it all out and put a small amp and a 8" one in :-)
Mike Triggs
Goo Roo
Western NSW
3.0GT G-Pack

Posts: 1718
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, February 02, 2012 - 01:48 pm, by:  Mike Triggs (Mikeandimah) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Ryan Pollard wrote on Thursday, February 02, 2012 - 12:19 pm:

As far as I know it's an 8". Someone has a thread here about installing an 8" with amp, but thought if mine worked okay, then I would just run it from the head unit. I THINK you can just run the wires for the sub at the dash and bridge the speaker output from the head unit. But I'm not 100% sure on this.

As I said, failing that I'll yank it all out and put a small amp and a 8" one in :-)




It's supposedly 10". I measured the hole where a sub would go at 9", but have just bought a 10" sub and it's a tight fit (the terminals stop me getting the sub into the hole easily). I wish now I'd bought an 8" (actually, I was all set to buy an 8" Kicker shallow profile from Amazon. It said "available to ship to you country" at the bottom of page, then when I went to checkout, it said "we can't ship to your registered address! I'd spent literally hours researching subs...)

You can run a sub from a head unit, but only low power, the best I've seen is 70w but there might be HU out there capable of better. I have a Sony 700 something which has RCA outputs for front, rear and sub- but being RCA output I wouldn't know how to connect directly to sub. You can get converters the other way around (speaker wires to RCAs) but can't be reversed.

As for amp, it's my understanding you can run 2 Ohm subs, but they have to be stable at 2 Ohms. You get better output at 2 Ohms, but at the price of working the amp harder. I looked extensively at 8" woofers but they're mainly for home audio and mainly 8 Ohm- which is good for the amp but poor for output from the speaker in a car situation. In fact, many car amps aren't rated for 8 Ohm load, it's Ok if two 8 Ohm woofers as they can be wired in parallel for a 4 Ohm load (complicated, my head's still spinning from reading up on all this crap:-)). Also, Dual Voice Coil subs (mainly car ones) if 4 Ohm per coil end up as 2 Ohm load at amp. Like I said, it's complicated!
Mike Triggs
Goo Roo
Western NSW
3.0GT G-Pack

Posts: 1719
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, February 02, 2012 - 02:12 pm, by:  Mike Triggs (Mikeandimah) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Another complication (I believe) is that speakers run on about 5V while most HU RCA output is 2v (some 2.5v and up to 4v).
Mike Triggs
Goo Roo
Western NSW
3.0GT G-Pack

Posts: 1720
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, February 02, 2012 - 02:18 pm, by:  Mike Triggs (Mikeandimah) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I thought about this guy- quite cheap, and 4 Ohm, too, which is very unusual for a hifi/audio speaker (and many are 16 Ohm!):
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PA-SPEAKER-FS-AUDIO-8-WOOFER-280WATTS-PA-BAND-DJ-/280815011523?pt=AU_Hi_F i_Speakers&hash=item4161e106c3
Mike Triggs
Goo Roo
Western NSW
3.0GT G-Pack

Posts: 1724
Reg: 07-2005

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Monday, February 06, 2012 - 08:56 am, by:  Mike Triggs (Mikeandimah) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Not sure if this is a useful item with regard to sub-woofer and aftermarket HU:
http://www.uxcell.com/car-audio-speaker-adjustable-high-low-line-out-rca-sockets-converter-p-157156. html

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