Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 04:49 pm, by: Rod Quaife(Rod_quaife)
Attention Mark or those that know, I have taken Marks previous advice and brought Jaycar tweeter and crossover to go inplace of factory ones. How are they wired in. The crossover has two pins up top. 'C" and 'IN' and on bottom three pins W C T. The tweeter has two wires., white and white and black. I am pretty ignorant of wiring things in so could someone explain in simple terms how to wire existing speaker to new tweeter and crossover. I understand from a previous post that new tweeter needs to be cut down to fit existing tweeter mount.? All this after I take off door trim of course. Thanks
Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 05:34 pm, by: Rod Quaife(Rod_quaife)
Thanks for prompt reply Phil. The existing tweeter may have a capacitor or the new one may have a capacitor.? Just looking at new one cant see anything which looks like a capacitor on it unless it is in the casing which would have to be cut off. Is the white and black wire on new tweeter, positive and the while wire neg.?
Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 05:59 pm, by: Mark Paddick(Sparks)
What he said ^^^^
If the tweeters are the Jaycar ones then, no, there is no capacitor fitted to them (which is why I always stress the use of a crossover). Normal convention is that the marked wire is +ve. For tweeters using this type of crossover it is not that important. Correct phasing is necessary for the bass end but the tweeters can go either way (there are opinions stating both so either way round will do, just make sure both are the same).
Friday, June 16, 2006 - 10:20 am, by: Rod Quaife(Rod_quaife)
Thanks Mark. One more question will it be necessary for the Jaycar tweeter to be cut down, ie swivel surround cut off I presume, to fit existing tweeter mount.
Friday, June 16, 2006 - 11:42 pm, by: Mark Paddick(Sparks)
Yes, If you retain the factory tweeter mounting bracket then you need to remove the new tweeter from its' swivel mount; they just pop out with a fair bit of persuasion. I just use double sided tape to hold the new one on the bracket while the (upper) door trim goes on...and then the door trim will hold it in place.
Phasing of tweeters will result in a bit of a peak in the midrange for tweeters in phase with the woofer, or a slight dip in the midrange for out of phase. This is a limitation of 2-way systems and which way to do it is largely a matter of personal preference. Most designers opt for the latter which gives the slight dip in midrange frequency response as this is easily compensated for with normal bass/treble tone controls and is generally less noticeable. There is one way around this in a 2-way system and that is to use a Linkwitz/Riley type of active crossover filter before the amps. This works very well and reduces a lot of other distortion components too but does require double the number of power amps. The output power of such a system is still the same as if there was only one amp per channel, but there is usually a bit more headroom. This is one reason why it is not too common as manufacturers can't legitimately advertise (don't know why that stops the add men in this case; it doesn't usually worry them) huge power outputs and the cost per watt of output is more than double that of a non-active system. It doesn't matter that the active system sounds heaps better because that cannot be quantified and the big numbers bragged about.
Sunday, December 17, 2006 - 08:12 pm, by: Jethro Cohen(Jethro)
Sorry to bring up an old thread but I am currently installing the jaycar splits and crossover and I have tried all the different polarities between the power and the tweeters and I cant really make out much of a difference, the wires to the tweeters are Black and white which I assume to be positive (white) and negative (black), and the wires from the doors to the tweeters are red and black again which I assume to be positive (red) and negative (black) There are no markings on the crossover to tell you what is negative and what is positive - can anyone shed any light on this for me???
Also I have heard that there is a crossover in the speaker box before the wires go to the tweeter - do you need to bypass this or add the crossover after the wires that come out of the speaker box and into the tweeter? If you were to do the latter I suppose you would be running 2 crossovers?