Monday, November 03, 2008 - 11:16 am, by: Lachie Bryce(Caboose)
my vvti is looming around this service and as i'm going to do as much of the service as i can what is are the things that need to be done for the service?
so far i have filters fluids spark plugs breaks timing belt
also the car is running about 460k's for a tank in the city (hoping after the service i'll be looking at a better running engine) but what are somethings that might be causing to drain fuel (apart from the lead foot)
cheers
Mike Triggs Goo Roo Western Australia 3.0GT G-Pack
Monday, November 03, 2008 - 05:07 pm, by: Mike Triggs(Mikeandimah)
I've found our car is hard on juice around town, Lachie. Much better on a run- I get better economy from a run at 130km/hr than from running around town. I reckon the restrictive exhaust is part of it, it might be worth checking the O2 sensors. Most of the stuff you're about to do should help, except maybe the breaks (brakes?). We get better than 460/tank around town though, although we have no traffic lights
Friday, January 16, 2009 - 08:12 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
Also 1.5 litres of Gear Oil for the diff. Also I think the JZZ31 filter is the 2003 not the 2004 - could be wrong though, and make sure you get 4 litres of Toyota long life red CONCENTRATE, not pre-mix. Front main seal and rear main seal won't need doing if your car is a genuine 100,000km's and/or they aren't already leaking - likewise harmonic balancer should be OK. My serpentine belt was pretty far gone by 100,000 so definitely look closely at that, and my tensioner pulley gave up not too long after I'd done my 100,000km service, so it might pay to think about that - Toyota won't sell you just the pulley and the whole arm assembly is something stupid like $300, so I picked up a similarly sized pulley from the local Holden dealer for under $20, and it's been fine now for about 50,000km.
Friday, January 16, 2009 - 01:51 pm, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
Personally I use Castrol 90wsomething in the diff,(can't remember the exact weighting but any suitable gear oil that states its OK for use in modern diffs is fine) and Castrol Magnatec 10w30 for the engine, or Penrite HPR10 if Magnatec isn't on special.
Friday, January 16, 2009 - 11:30 pm, by: Kevin Trac(Menty)
Does this sound like a good price for parts? I asked around and some of the stuff they dont reckon I need:
Oil Filter (genuine Toyota) $16 Fuel filter $20, or will a ryco one do ATF (Dex 3) $27 Engine oil (Penrite HPR10) $37; or castrol magnatec 10W30 Power steering fluid (not needed)- dex 3 i think it is? DIff fluid (not needed) Coolant (Toyota Red 4L) $37 Air filter (should I bother, if Im going to do a BFI later?) Spark plugs (6x NGK Iridium) $15 x6 =$90; or non iridium are about $30 ( I think 6x NGK BKR5EP-11. Do they have to be iridium?) Timing belt )+ crank and cam seals) $160 Rear main seal (not really needed) Idler + timing belt tensioner $200 Tension idler (not needed) Serpentine belt (not needed) Harmonic balancer (not needed) OEM drive belt $40 Water Pump (Toyota $160, or Other japanese brand $80) Idler fuel fitler (not needed) Brake fluid $16 Lucas Brake pads (would I need them?)
All up thats about $900. Im not really sure on some parts. How much would a mechanic charge to do that service? I presume it would be an all day job
Saturday, January 17, 2009 - 06:50 pm, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
All looks resonable to me. I would recommend doing the diff oil if you don't know when it was last done. Plus it's a cheap and quick job.
Definitely go with iridium plugs as it's quite a job replacing them (you have to remove the throttle body to get at most of them, takes me over an hour by the time I've got it all back together again)
Also check under your distributor cap as your rotor button is probably on the way out. Test ht leads too.
Not sure how much a mechanic would charge, took me a whole day to do at home but I am pretty slow and my equipment is limited.
Oh and stick with toyota filters. They are very good.
Saturday, January 17, 2009 - 08:00 pm, by: Kevin Trac(Menty)
Whats the difference between the Penrite and the Magnatec. Apparently the magnatec is not semi synthetic. Also why would you use HPR10 instead of HPR15
Monday, January 19, 2009 - 06:09 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
Magnatec is a semi-synthetic. I don't find any real difference in the way the car runs between either of them, but the magnatec is supposedly attracted to the engine components so lubricates better on startup, thus less wear in theory.
HPR15 is a thicker oil - its quite OK to use it, but it will mean less power (probably not noticably though) 2JZ's are well put together so don't need a thick oil to "fill the gaps" - unless you suspect your engine is very worn, go with 10w30.
Monday, January 19, 2009 - 09:03 pm, by: Scott Wilkes(Scottywilkes)
its DOHC so u need 2 cam seals and 1 crank seal.
Dont bother replacing the harmonic balancer or serpentine belt unless needed, you will know when you remove. If serpentine belt has cracks through all the rips or tears its a good t ime to replace.
Harmonic balancer should be fine, they rarely fail.
You wont need brake pads unless yours are worn down. I would find a listing for EBC Green stuff brake pads, very good pads.
Timing belt tensioner and idler are a must when doing timing belt, do it right the first time and you wont have to take it apart on account of a destroyed idler bearing or slipped belt on account of weak tensioner.
Castol magnatec 5/40 is what i use on my 1JZ, its fully synthetic and a very good oil, plus my workshop deals in castrol so its cheap for me HAHA
Depending on the car. At work for a timing belt service, we get a timing belt kit, including seals, belt, idler pulleys and tensioner.
Also while taking it apart we inspect the parts, no point in replacing something if it is perfectly fine. If the airfilter looks decently clean, blow it out and use it for another 5K.
Fuel filter is worth doing, unless it has been changed recently. If spark plugs look worn, replace them. Simple inspections can save money.
Tuesday, January 20, 2009 - 07:52 pm, by: Kevin Trac(Menty)
OK I have got most of my parts now.
My water pump has no gaskets, (its a returned one that someone didnt want) and I dont know if they are missing or if it doesnt come with one. Should the water pump come with gaskets?
Iv been advised that the auto trans filter doesnt need changing, and it would be better off just changing the fluids.
With oil, the plan is to just use a ryco filter and magnatec oil. Change at 5000kms.
Also what is the part number for the JZZ31 brake pads (Lucas or OEM)?
Sunday, January 25, 2009 - 07:46 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
They are a spring tensioner, s0 the tensioner itself will probably not fail (again, assuming your KM's are genuine) but its the bearing that may become a problem. Personally I kept my old tensioner as it was in very good condition. Its done 58,000km's so far with no problems, but its always better to replace if unsure.
No, AFAIK the water pump doesn't have a gasket, you will need to use a suitable sealing product - there are plenty to chose from, just make sure its heat resistant, and my advise is stay clear of silicon based products.
I would say if you don't know the age of the existing transmission filter, then change it - they can very occasionally crumble internally when they get very old, and it will basically root your transmission if it happens (its VERY unlikely, but for the ocst of a filter, not worth the risk IMO)
I just got some pads recently, but didn't take note of the part numbers sorry.