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Tom Brookes
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NSW
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Sunday, June 20, 2010 - 12:44 pm, by:  Tom Brookes (Aristor) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi,

I've seen pics/tutorial of coolant flush of a v8. I am wishing to fully flush my coolant in my jzz31.

I have read the advice " Be sure to reverse flush and also flush the heater core to get rid of all the old coolant incase it's a different type of coolant than Toyota Long Life, as they may react if mixed."

"Reverse flush - You force water the opposite way that it normally flows, so remove thermostat and you would normally use a flushing gun, but at home you'll use a hose and then flush the system to get all the old coolant out for a while.

Good idea will be to replace the thermostat while your at it. "

In this thread
http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/messages/37/83009.html?1167071450

I see pics of the garden hose connected to what?

Does anyone have pics to show where to connect the hose in the jzz31? Apparently I need to remove the thermostat as mentioned above and then connect the hose there to achieve the reverse flush. I am fairly clueless so any pictorial help is appreciated.
Cameron James
Tinkerer
NSW
Soarer GT-TL

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Sunday, June 20, 2010 - 01:03 pm, by:  Cameron James (Dinosoarer) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The garden hose shot in that thread is connected to a heater core pipe that runs into the firewall (circled in RED below). You should also disconnect the outlet hose (circled in yellow) when you flush it so that all of the heater core crap doesn't then get pushed into the engine. SOrry only have pics of TT JZZ31



The thremostat is located on the engine-side of the lower radiator hose (is a bastard to reach on a TT) sorry no pics of this.

When you reverse flush the engine thru the top hose, make sure the heater hoses and lower radiator hoses are disconnected too so that all the crap inside does not recirculate. Hope this helps
Aiden Cheese
DieHard
QLD
Soarer jzz30

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Sunday, June 20, 2010 - 01:10 pm, by:  Aiden Cheese (Chillpen) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

You talking about the regular coolant thermostat? You've got to pull off the water pump to get to it, which requires you to pull off the fan and the cam cover. The thermostat is a pretty big job for a 25 dollar part.
Tom Brookes
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NSW
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Sunday, June 20, 2010 - 03:02 pm, by:  Tom Brookes (Aristor) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hmm from the responses so far it sounds like an extensive job, so possibly for the moment I should not bother removing the thermostat in the jzz31.

Can I just reverse flush the system somehow without doing anything to the thermostat.

Also while on the issue of coolant flush what do people think about those alkaline salt based coolant flushes? One post in a toymods forum said that "The last time i used a cooling system flush it ate out the seals on my water pump. The pump would've probably needed replacing anyway, but the flush made it come sooner rather than later."
I believe he has the jza80.

Link here:
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=23864

I have also read about using white vinegar in a later stage of flush and then re-flushing with water. It is interesting that one of the supposed flush chemicals is alkaline and the other is acidic.

At the moment I have green coolant and want to flush this out. Basically I would like to flush without compromising the seals on the water pump and also any other potential problems. I would also like to flush it out well as I have read mixing red and green coolants can lead to clogging. If it's best to err on the safe side and flush only with water I guess I would do that. Then again I might get a better flush using acids, alkalis, or both.
Peter Nitschke
Junk Filterer
South Australia
UZZ30 UZZ31

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Sunday, June 20, 2010 - 06:12 pm, by:  Peter Nitschke (Pen) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Unless you have reason to think the system is full of rubbish, then water under pressure (hose) should do a fairly good job.

Just flush it through by putting the hose in anywhere that you can.

Pay attention to the part about flushing the heater core.
Cameron James
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NSW
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Sunday, June 20, 2010 - 07:12 pm, by:  Cameron James (Dinosoarer) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I changed my coolant in December last year when I got the car - was very crappy so I put in a coolant flush that contained alkaline salts - a fortnight later I was replacing the water pump... coincidence or just part of owning a 20yo car?
Tom Brookes
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Monday, June 21, 2010 - 06:56 am, by:  Tom Brookes (Aristor) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Interesting. It may have been a coincidence. How did you use the alkali salt flush? In with the old coolant and drove for a bit or did you flush first with water then flush for 10 minutes with alkali salts then flush again with water?
Tom Brookes
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NSW
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Monday, June 21, 2010 - 08:07 am, by:  Tom Brookes (Aristor) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

"Pay attention to the part about flushing the heater core."

Do you mean that you need to flush the heater and to do this you need to turn the heater on while the engine is running? Doing so will flush the heater core.

"
When you reverse flush the engine thru the top hose, make sure the heater hoses and lower radiator hoses are disconnected too so that all the crap inside does not recirculate. Hope this helps" Which hoses are these?

I decided to get a pic of a jzz31 engine to help locate stuff.

Thanks for your assistance.



Upload
Cameron James
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NSW
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Monday, June 21, 2010 - 07:13 pm, by:  Cameron James (Dinosoarer) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Tom, I don't want to sound condescending, but if your automotive knowledge does not extend to identifying the heater hoses and lower radiator hoses, then maybe this job may be best left to a professional???

For what its worth, the heater core is fed by the diaghpram valve up the back of the engine bay (circled) both of the hoses to this valve should be disconnected when flushing - plus the outlet pipe from the heater core (coming out of the fire wall) should also be taken off. The lower radiator hose is down the front (arrowed). Engine should not be running when you do this job but it helps if the engine is warmed up... yes you may scald yourself if your not careful but all of the crap inside the motor will be mixed up and will flush out more effectively. Everyone seems to have their own way of doing it better - but this is the way I have always done it.



BTW if the 2J has the same thermostat setup as the 1J then you dont have to take the water pump off... it is held on by 2 bolts - just checked engine on stand.
Tom Brookes
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Monday, June 21, 2010 - 10:38 pm, by:  Tom Brookes (Aristor) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks Cameron. Hehe yes well I have a mate who knows about cars but isn't fully familiar with soarers so I will be letting him know the info here and I reckon we will piece it together.

It is interesting that there are many ways to skin this cat.

Do you take off the radiator caps and insert hose to flush through the top or do you connect it to a hose/insertion at a lower height than the radiator cap height?
Cameron James
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Monday, June 21, 2010 - 10:45 pm, by:  Cameron James (Dinosoarer) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Yep cap off - flush the radiator from both top hose and bottom hose + every other opening. All depends on how full of crap the system is. Use a trigger nozzle of you can as the bursts of pressure can help dislodge all the bits inside.
Tom Brookes
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NSW
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Tuesday, November 16, 2010 - 12:16 am, by:  Tom Brookes (Aristor) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hey can you please upload that pic again?
David Henderson
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Nsw
TT

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Tuesday, November 16, 2010 - 08:09 am, by:  David Henderson (Hendo) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Don't use an alkali flush unless you take the thermostat out, it will kill the thermostat in my experience.

If your car has a clogged cooling system (rusty) take your radistor out and have the tubes cleaned out at a rad specialist

if not, a good way to flush is to empty the system, fill with water, drive around for a day or so then dump the water. Repeat until water is clear, then refill with Toyota red and your done
Tom Brookes
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Tuesday, November 16, 2010 - 10:18 am, by:  Tom Brookes (Aristor) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ah thanks David, that sounds quite easy. I wonder how effective it is versus using a hose in various orifices as described above.
David Henderson
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Nsw
TT

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Wednesday, November 17, 2010 - 09:28 am, by:  David Henderson (Hendo) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I'd say more effective, as its hot water and its being cycled for a lot longer.
Tom Brookes
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Friday, November 25, 2011 - 02:35 pm, by:  Tom Brookes (Aristor) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Cameron can you please repost that picture again?
Mike Triggs
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Wednesday, January 11, 2012 - 09:32 am, by:  Mike Triggs (Mikeandimah) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I've done this on both our JZZ-31s. While I had rainwater available on Norfolk Island (all water, including that from garden hose, was from the tank) in the absense of rainwater, there's no way I'd put tap water in my engine. On Norfolk, I had demineralised water available, so I flushed as much as possible with hose, then drove the car with heater on full, redrained, and reflushed at another time when engine was cool again. After two goes water was clean and uncoloured, system refilled with demineralised water and appropriate coolant concentrate. Sounds like a lot of mucking about, but a lot less than other techniques, and you don't end up putting crappy tap water into the engine. Were I to be doing it now, I'd be using filtered rainwater (which we have at home anyway, town water here is awful) both for the flush and the fill.
Matthew Sharpe
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North Island
JZZ31

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Thursday, January 12, 2012 - 06:07 am, by:  Matthew Sharpe (Madmatt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Last time I did it I found my local supermarket had 3 litre bottles of distilled water for $2 a bottle.
Mike Triggs
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Thursday, January 12, 2012 - 08:53 am, by:  Mike Triggs (Mikeandimah) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Matthew Sharpe wrote on Thursday, January 12, 2012 - 06:07 am:

Last time I did it I found my local supermarket had 3 litre bottles of distilled water for $2 a bottle.




You'd need quite a few of these for a "double flush" like I do :-)

I'm not entirely sure that "distilled" water in shops is actually "distilled", much of it's partially demineralised and filtered. Unless it says "steam distilled" on the label, it may be filtered. Mind you, that's much better than tap water!

I use a fair amount at work (meteorological equipment) and have to be careful with what I obtain and use. In the "old days" we'd get 25 (later 20l, since many people couldn't lift 25kg+) drums of steam distilled water. Now, we have to buy locally to save freight, which means I have to check the labels.
Vincent Chan
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Thursday, January 12, 2012 - 11:25 am, by:  Vincent Chan (Vincent191) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Most important thing is it had been demineralised. But to flush the system tap water is ok. You are only flushing it and not putting that in as a coolant. If you are using coolant concentrate then make sure when you fill up the radiator use distilled water. I just use the ready mixed coolant from that el-cheapo shop.
Matthew Sharpe
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North Island
JZZ31

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Friday, January 13, 2012 - 07:01 am, by:  Matthew Sharpe (Madmatt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Mike Triggs wrote on Thursday, January 12, 2012 - 08:53 am:

You'd need quite a few of these for a "double flush" like I do :-)




Yeah, I wasn't that fussy - I flushed with tap water and then drained and refilled - think I used about 3 bottles of the distilled water and three or four bottles of Toyota long life concentrate. Radiator got replaced with a brand new one a couple of years later after an accident anyway, and the radiator place did a full flush of the rest of the system then - so I haven't had to do it again yet.

I work for ThermoFisher Scientific now, so I can probably get steam distilled water through work.
Vincent Chan
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Friday, January 13, 2012 - 09:54 am, by:  Vincent Chan (Vincent191) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I was thinking of collecting the water from my house air conditioner. It is kinda "distilled". Any thoughts guys?
Ben Lipman
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SA
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Friday, January 13, 2012 - 10:36 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Probably easier to collect rainwater. Absolutely distilled.

Not sure what sort of aircon you have, but if it is evaporative you will find the water coming out of it is full of salts etc.

I bought 20 liters of 'pure' water from a supermarket. According to the container it was distilled and contained no impurities at all (well 99.9% pure). The label stated it was good for a bunch of things, among them radiators and batteries. Interestingly, none of them were drinking! Tasted pretty good though...
Mike Triggs
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Friday, January 13, 2012 - 12:45 pm, by:  Mike Triggs (Mikeandimah) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Vincent Chan wrote on Friday, January 13, 2012 - 09:54 am:

I was thinking of collecting the water from my house air conditioner. It is kinda "distilled". Any thoughts guys?




You're right, it is "kinda distilled" and probably good to use for a lot of things. Many people in arid areas feed this water to potplants. It might pick up some stuff from inside the a/c, because the surfaces and pipework are metal and plastic, while "steam distilled" would involve glassware, but should be OK if filtered. I've seen algae growing in the pipes, so be careful of that.
Mike Triggs
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Friday, January 13, 2012 - 12:55 pm, by:  Mike Triggs (Mikeandimah) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Ben Lipman wrote on Friday, January 13, 2012 - 10:36 am:

Probably easier to collect rainwater. Absolutely distilled.

Not sure what sort of aircon you have, but if it is evaporative you will find the water coming out of it is full of salts etc




Rainwater isn't always super-pure, birds crap on roofs, for instance, and rooftiles collect dust. The recently restored (after Cyclone Yasi) weather station at Willis Island used to collect rainwater, but it had diverters for the first few mms of rain, to make sure the booby crap was washed away first, but there are so many boobies that they never got enough good water! Now they have a reverse osmosis filter.

If Vincent's a/c is dripping water, it's most likely the usual reverse cycle type. Evaporative a/cs pour water, and it has the salts concentrated as it has lost H2O. The unit here at Cobar is mounted on the roof, and the section of guttering and downpipe where the "after cooling" water is disposed of is rusting and yukky with algae. When I lived in outback SA, the water was very salty, so much so that the house smelled like we were living at the seaside- and anything ferrous around the house rusted badly.

I have a couple of inverter a/cs now and only use the evaporative cooler when it's below about 33-34C and below about 30% humidity, they're useless when it's really hot and/or humid.
Ben Lipman
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SA
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Friday, January 13, 2012 - 01:27 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Doesn't get humid here, although the locals do like to complain a lot. Spend a summer in the NT and you soon realise that 15-20% humidity is nothing. I love our evaporative cooler- the best thing is you have to keep the windows etc open. You never get that inside of a refrigerator smell from the house being shut up for days on end.

Back on topic, I, ar, er, nah. I got nothing to add...

except that due to some unforseen cooling issues I have now flushed my radiator/cooling system about 5 times in the last two days.
Vincent Chan
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Friday, January 13, 2012 - 01:47 pm, by:  Vincent Chan (Vincent191) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Mike you are right mine is a usual reverse cycle refrigerator type of air con not the evaporative type.

Ben, rainwater is not that pure. On it's way down from the heavens it absorbs carbon dioxide from the atmosphere forming a weak carbonic acid. Over time it can eat through limestone forming those stalamities in caves.

So I guess overtime it can eat through your radiator.
Mike Triggs
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Friday, January 13, 2012 - 02:04 pm, by:  Mike Triggs (Mikeandimah) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Vincent Chan wrote on Friday, January 13, 2012 - 01:47 pm:

Ben, rainwater is not that pure. On it's way down from the heavens it absorbs carbon dioxide from the atmosphere forming a weak carbonic acid. Over time it can eat through limestone forming those stalamities in caves.




Any CO2 dissolved in rainwater would be boiled off pretty quickly in a radiator! As I pointed out earlier, the main problem with rainwater is the collection surface, which is why both home and work tanks have filters on the outlets, plus for drinking at home my wife filters again (through a carbon cartridge). She even boils the double-filtered water, for drinking! Cobar's town water comes from the Bogan River, and is full of Bogans:-)
Mike Triggs
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Friday, January 13, 2012 - 02:11 pm, by:  Mike Triggs (Mikeandimah) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Ben Lipman wrote on Friday, January 13, 2012 - 01:27 pm:

Doesn't get humid here, although the locals do like to complain a lot. Spend a summer in the NT and you soon realise that 15-20% humidity is nothing. I love our evaporative cooler- the best thing is you have to keep the windows etc open.




I've found that if we get NW cloudbands at Cobar, it can be 32-36C and quite humid (RH over 40%) and the evaporative cooler is next to useless, reducing the heat only slightly and humidifying the interior of the house. Our first summer here (before the refrigerative a/c was installed) nights were terrible, felt like sleeping in a wet sleeping bag. I know about leaving windows and doors open- otherwise the big airpump is trying to pressurise a closed vessel! Evaporative cools the whole house- which can be a nuisance, you can't switch sections off, and there are two speeds on ours- High, and very bloody high.
Dan McColl
Goo Roo
Victoria (The Nazi State)
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Friday, January 13, 2012 - 10:00 pm, by:  Dan McColl (Hoon) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

ROFL. We had some 95%RH days in Brisbane last month.
Mike Triggs
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Friday, January 13, 2012 - 10:43 pm, by:  Mike Triggs (Mikeandimah) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Dan McColl wrote on Friday, January 13, 2012 - 10:00 pm:

ROFL. We had some 95%RH days in Brisbane last month.




Not all that unusual, it's often over 90% anywhere it's raining heavily. I found Brisbane's climate to be debilitating... hence my desire to live in Tassie:-)!
Dan McColl
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Saturday, January 14, 2012 - 02:49 pm, by:  Dan McColl (Hoon) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

95% when it's not raining.

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