Sunday, May 06, 2012 - 07:30 pm, by: Lloyd Roberts(Lloydulation)
Just commenced a major 100k service.
My brother and I are doing all the work ourselves. So far we have taken apart the intake manifold and removed the valve covers for inspection/cleaning. All cleaned in a degreasing solution and reassembled. Surprisingly there was no sludge build up around the cams. We've also changed the spark plugs (original Denso) and ultrasonically cleaned the fuel injectors (the do it at home way with a car battery, a jewelry ultrasonic cleaning machine and carbie cleaner) and replaced all the gasket/rubber bits with new ones from toyota.
Next job is to change the belts, tensioner, idler and water pump.
Previously I changed all fluids (transmission,power steering, brake, diff) so this does't have to be done.
Also I've found out that it's good idea to tighten the front subframe bolts (4 of them). We found we could tighten them a further quarter of a turn. On Club Lexus it says it's actually a maintenance item and should be checked every so often.
Monday, May 07, 2012 - 04:55 pm, by: Enzo Seidl(Enzoisamazing)
Sweet as, im about due for this, done the drive belt already, i can do the fluids on my own, but don't dare to touch the timing belt, too scared ill miss a tooth n kill my engine.
Wednesday, May 09, 2012 - 12:11 pm, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
Lloyd Roberts wrote on Sunday, May 06, 2012 - 07:30 pm:
Also I've found out that it's good idea to tighten the front subframe bolts (4 of them). We found we could tighten them a further quarter of a turn. On Club Lexus it says it's actually a maintenance item and should be checked every so often.
Too right! Check the engine mount nuts too - I had one fall off a few years back!
Wednesday, May 09, 2012 - 12:14 pm, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
Enzo Seidl wrote on Monday, May 07, 2012 - 04:55 pm:
Sweet as, im about due for this, done the drive belt already, i can do the fluids on my own, but don't dare to touch the timing belt, too scared ill miss a tooth n kill my engine.
It's actually a pretty easy job if you allow yourself enough time. You won't kill your engine if you get it wrong, if you miss a tooth it'll just run bad, and as long as you always turn it over a couple of times by hand before you put everything back together it's immediately obvious if you do get it wrong.
Wednesday, May 09, 2012 - 09:14 pm, by: Lloyd Roberts(Lloydulation)
I'll have a look at those engine mount nuts next, thanks Matt!
Service all finished now. Car is a little bit more powerful and a fair bit smoother from low rpm.
My brother also tightened the throttle cable. I was under the impression that it was drive by wire? Is this the case and it's some early model that still had a cable to the throttle before the computer intervenes?
Thursday, May 10, 2012 - 11:53 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
No, all of them are cable throttle as far as I am aware - computer controls advance/retard, injection etc, but not the throttle butterfly. There is a secondary butterfly in the throttle body, but I think that is mechanically controlled too.
Friday, May 11, 2012 - 07:29 pm, by: Dan McColl(Hoon)
VVT-i 2JZ-GE is drive by wire. The throttle cable only opens the throttle about 20% as a get you home measure if the drive by wire fails. I would refer to the manual about it's setting, I don't think it's meant to be tight.
ETCS-i is Electronic Throttle Control System - intelligent.
Friday, May 11, 2012 - 07:39 pm, by: Lloyd Roberts(Lloydulation)
Thanks Dan. I don't think i've over tightened it. It still idles the same, i've only taken out some of the slack.
How's your active rebuilt going? I read through all the pages of it here and then elsewhere too! Tempts me to buy an old active cheaply and try and do it up.
Bunnings sells a PVC pipe reducer that perfectly fits the cam seals on one end and the crank seal on the other. I also went through 2 crank seals before I was happy with how even it sat
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