Sunday, February 17, 2013 - 10:39 am, by: James Cailes(Jimmy_c)
I need help removing a 1jz and trans out of a jzz30 I hav a crane just not familiar with them enough if someone in sa could help I would pay them a small amount of cash and I will supply all tools necessary pls contact James on 0415692367 if u can help out
Sunday, February 17, 2013 - 05:10 pm, by: Robbie Rashleigh(2annoy)
Hey mate , I am too far away. But i had never done it before either. I ended up doing it alone. Couldnt get anyone to help.
One tip. once everything is undone. put a trolley jack under the gearbox, and keep jacking it up abit more, then when pull the motor forward , then jack will roll forward supporting gearbox.
Also buy an engine crane leveller for you crane. Makes job so easy.
Monday, February 18, 2013 - 09:26 pm, by: Boris Siljanoski(Z2tt)
You don't need a Guide to Remove an Engine, but it will go something along these lines.
Reclaim Refrigerant / Depressurize A/C System.
Remove Suction and Discharge Hoses from Compressor. Plug Compressor ports with scrunched up Shopping plastic bags aswell as the suction and discharge hoses.
Remove Battery Terminals.
Remove Driveshaft from Gearbox.
Undo Dump pipe where it joins to the exhaust on the underbody, you need good tools for this as bolts can be seized.
Remove Air Cleaner Pipe to Turbo Y-Pipe.
Remove Turbo Outlet Union Section to Intercooler Pipe.
Remove Intercooler Hose to Throttle Body.
Remove Throttle Cable From Interior/Pedal.
Remove TRC Throttle Cable from Throttle Body (If Fitted)
Unplug ECU Loom connectors around the fusebox that join to the body loom and unbolt the Igniter from the Body.
Remove Line Pressure Cable from Throttle body (If Chosing to Remove Transmission Before Taking Engine Out)
Use Large Container to Drain radiator fluid. Unscrew radiator drain Cock and allow coolant to drain.
Remove Bottom radiator hose. Bend Upwards and Cable tie to part of engine to reduce residual coolant leakage inconvenience
Remove Top Radiator hose.
Remove Sump Plug on Automatic gearbox and allow fluid to drain into container (4L+ Container), Replace sump plug on radiator once drained.
Remove Engine Sump plug and allow oil to drain into container (6L+ Container)
Remove Auto Transmission Cooler hoses on both sides of the bottom tank on the radiator, use twisting and pulling motion, do not yank sideways.
Remove Radiator shroud.
Slightly Loosen the 4 x Nuts holding the Pulley onto the water Pump in order to remove the fan. You may need to devise a way to hold the pulley stationary while loosening the nuts.
Apply Force onto the Serpentine/Accessory belt tensioner using a proper sized spanner, and remove the belt.
Remove fan and serpentine belt.
Remove Any Engine to Chassis Earths.
Remove the Nut holding the Charging cable onto the alternator and remove the charging cable.
Unplug ECU Connectors from ECU Under Passengers carpet, and all other Associated connectors connecting the ECU Loom to other parts in the dash and pull ecu harness out after you have removed the 2x Bolts that hold the grommet to the firewall.
Undo Heater hose and remove it, near the Rear Turbo, and the other heater hose near the heater tap that is on the Engine Side, use Caution not to damage the heater tap, use a twisting force rather than a pulling force to begin with as it may be siezed.
Remove the High pressure power steering hose from the Rack side.
Remove the Power steering feed hose from the Bottle to the Pump.
You may chose to remove the Gearbox first, then Remove the Engine as it will lift straight up. Or you may chose to take the engine and gearbox out in one shot.
Removing the Radiator will give more clearance and avoid damage when pulling motor out.
if you Chose to Remove the transmission separate from Engine follow below procedure otherwise skip
-----------Transmission Removal----------
To Remove Transmission, Undo the inspection plate and spin the crank to reveal every single bolt holding the torque converter to the Flex Plate. You can Jam a tool or brace into the teeth to stop it from spinning, or put a breaker bar on the crank and either get a helper to hold it or turn until it gets stuck on the chassis. Ensure every single bolt is removed by rotating the engine 2 more rotations just to be sure.
Undo the Connectors from the ECU Loom that are around the bellhousing and perhaps ontop of the transmission and around it to seperate the Transmission Sub-Loom from the Main-ECU Loom
Wrap a strong Bag around the Extension housing and use a bit cable tie or rope to tie it on to catch leakage.
Remove the transmission cooler lines from the transmission housing, these may be very tight so you require good leverage and tight fitting tools.
Check for any Brackets that join transmission to other parts of the chassis or any earth points from the transmission itself directly onto the body and remove.
Place a Hydrualic Jack under the rear part of the transmission sump and use a timber block inbetween the jack and sump and raise the jack to put slight pressure onto the transmission
Remove Transmission mount from the chassis.
You may now chose to Put another jack at the front part of the transmission and Timber block too for support, and build up some bricks around for safety.
Ensure the Line pressure cable is removed from the throttle body and remove it off any brackets that may hold it onto the head and move it all the way down so it is totally loose once the transmission begins coming out.
Unplug Starter motor Power Supply lead (large Cable) by removing the nut that holds it on, and unplug the solenoid wire. Remove the 2 bolts that hold the starter motor and remove it from the car.
Remove all Bolts holding transmission bellhousing onto the Motor.... At this point ensure your transmission is supported below with jacks, bricks or other equipment or materials.
Use a big long screwdriver and jam between the seem of the bellhousing and motor, it will help separate it initially.
Now Slowly move the transmission backwards and lower it onto the floor.
-------------------- End Transmission Removal ------------------
Support the rear of the transmission with a jack and a Good idea to put a jack or support on the rear section of sump or mid incase motor leans back to avoid any hitting.
Remove the transmission mount from the chassis and let the transmission support itself on the jack to stop it from falling down.
Remove the Bonnet.
Get your Engine Crane Ready and attach your Chain/Shackles Hooks etc onto the hooks at the front and back of the motor.
Monday, February 18, 2013 - 09:30 pm, by: James Cailes(Jimmy_c)
That's all good on paper but as I said I was just seeing if someone could help who has done it before so I don't get it wrong and doesnt take forever to locate things
Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 02:14 am, by: Boris Siljanoski(Z2tt)
Start it by yourself.
Do the simple stuff you can, and when you get stuck make a post or ask on here..
Really it's not a difficult engine to remove.
There isn't anything you can forget where it goes so long as you mark everything, use a White-out Pen and draw shapes on both sides of things that mate together or make dots and lines.
Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 04:57 pm, by: James Cailes(Jimmy_c)
Well the turbo side is removed and throttle side is all disconnected I wanted to take that out to but not enough room in the car so shouldn't be too much more my 2jz block comes nxt week so gunna take it out nxt weekend if I get stuck I will just post one here but I also will just follow Boris explanation above and probs will learn a lot in the process
Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 05:23 pm, by: James Cailes(Jimmy_c)
1 question tho someone might know I'm building a track car so no street driving at all I hav a greddy ultimate do I hav to keep the auto/manual factory ecu and loom or can I just use the greddy and get rid of the loom and factory ecu?
Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 05:26 pm, by: Robbie Rashleigh(2annoy)
You must keep the factory ecu. Emanage is only a piggyback, it uses all the information from the ecu and then changes it. If you building a track car, your better off with a different ecu, id be selling the emanage and factory ecu, then you will have money to put toward a standalone ecu.
Tuesday, February 19, 2013 - 05:37 pm, by: Robbie Rashleigh(2annoy)
who is gonna tune it for you? find a tuner, talk to them what ecu they recommend. do you have a plug n play harness for emanage or just a universal loom?
Wednesday, February 20, 2013 - 01:34 am, by: Ben Lipman(Ben12a)
Jimmy,
I have been down this road already, as have a few others. Check us out in the track car section.
Are you planning on using the auto? Is it a drag, drift, or circuit car?
I would suggest you talk to some tuners in SA and then make an ECU choice from there. I went to Morpowa and am running a Haltech PS2000. Expensive up front, but I should never need another ECU. You could probably get away with a lower spec ECU, but I wanted the functionality. If you want to do what I have done and drive the car whilst you are building it, persevere with the stock computer and piggyback until you out grow it. I had a completely stock ECU for the first three years of my car. The downside is everything is a compromise if you do it this way.
If you are happy to build now and drive later (like Andrews Sports Sedan) then upgrade everything to the exact plan you have in your head as you find the time and money.
Start a track car thread, take pics, ask advice, post progress and have fun.
Wednesday, February 20, 2013 - 10:32 am, by: James Cailes(Jimmy_c)
At Ben it probs will b a circuit mostly sometimes drag if •• talking bout auto tranny no going manual soon I probs will start a thread soon I won't be driving it in between sO gunna get all parts than build all I need ATM is pistons and rods for a 2jz block and the greddy I got for free so probs can make some money of that and than save for a motec but I will hav to find a tuner in sa for motec for my plans I will just need the pistons and rods than build the motor than convert to manual and get a tune and hopefully than down to the track
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