Saturday, January 25, 2014 - 10:54 am, by: Kevin Gaskell(Flecktarn_australia)
The clueless individual i bought my JZZ31 off was running engine-destroying green coolant obviously for a while because he had just changed the water pump and radiator which the Green Death had destroyed. I have let it go for a bit but i am ready to drain the system and put the proper red coolant in it. Can someone tell me what the right mix is? I've got concentrate. Cheers
Saturday, January 25, 2014 - 03:22 pm, by: Ali Saeed(Ali)
50:50 is the correct mix. Check the coolant capacity online (I think its either 8 or 10L). Flush system and put in 5L of coolant and then top the rest off with de mineralised water
Saturday, January 25, 2014 - 05:16 pm, by: Blake Gloyn(Blakenz)
please expand on the red is better than green theme. I know toyota longlife coolant is red, but i was advised that you run the red coolant for the first, say ten years, then switch to green. And, if you buy a car with green coolant, stick with it. Your thoughts/knowledge please.Thanks.
Saturday, January 25, 2014 - 05:49 pm, by: Kevin Gaskell(Flecktarn_australia)
Toyota and Lexus motors are alloy motors. Red coolant is made specifically for alloy motors. Brass/copper motors are the other kind and green coolant is made specifically for them.
There is quite a bit of info on the Net about this but it is also clearly stated on any bottle of red or green coolant as to which is used for what. The NULON brand is very clear.
Perhaps because red coolant is $30+ a bottle versus $5 a bottle for green some lazy(?) mechanics have been known to put green coolant in cars that should take red.
The consequences of running Green Death in an alloy motor is:
Usually this happens around the 200,000 kms mark. The water channels inside the motor obviously suffer for it too. You really don't want to see.
Unfortunately I have personal experience with this issue.
It's basic stuff. I can't fathom how green coolant ever finds its' way in a Soarer (or any Toyota/Lexus) since they came from the factory with red coolant in the system, like they are supposed to.
If you can read the bottom print on the attached picture you will see it says Toyota and Lexus (amongst others)
Saturday, January 25, 2014 - 11:24 pm, by: Robert Day(Lexsmaz)
I feel you guy's are generalising the Green coolants & are putting down the quality Green coolants that are out there, I have used quality Green coolants in all the cars I serviced for years with no down sides or issues & the coolant has always stated that it was designed to be used for aluminium & steel & copper etc, so although the red Toyota coolant has a longer life I cant see any other advantage ..
And at the end of the day the 1jz motor's are a cast iron block & alloy head & the 1uz is the only one being a full alloy motor, but again a quality green coolant would suffice ..
So long as you use good quality coolant's & don't mix different brands it will be fine & it all comes down to a personal choice ..
Saturday, January 25, 2014 - 11:37 pm, by: Ali Saeed(Ali)
Whats the point? Just buy Toyota red, its not that much more and you only change it every couple of years. Whats $50 over two years for a bit of peace of mind?
Saturday, January 25, 2014 - 11:53 pm, by: Robert Day(Lexsmaz)
The point I was getting at was people were canning green coolants as all being •••• & its not the colour its the brand & quality that makes the difference & some other quality Green brands are quite a bit cheaper than the Toyota red ones too ..
And not every one is going to buy Toyota red coolant, but some people might now just look for red coolant thinking its better & I'm sure you can buy some not to flash red coolants from some places as is the case with the green coolant too ..
Sunday, January 26, 2014 - 01:10 am, by: Scott Vim(1uz1jz)
Yeah its just a dye. I use the Toyota stuff because you shouldn't mix coolant types unless you really flush it out. 1jz is mostly cast iron. 1uz is all alloy. But I wouldn't use alloy rads. Any electrolysis and they will corrode. They have better heat transfer but the copper rads will last forever. Alloy rads need more care to maintain.
•••• yeah alloy rads need great care. Make sure its grounded to chassis with rubber mounts. Flush every year, never mix coolant types. Cooper is far more durable. I would never go a alloy rad again.
Sunday, January 26, 2014 - 01:16 pm, by: Ali Saeed(Ali)
Yeah I still call bullshit on this. Please provide some evidence of actual failures due to corrosion. I have never heard, read or seen any alloy radiator failures on Soarers or Supras
Sunday, January 26, 2014 - 02:08 pm, by: Dave Rose(Sand_groper)
Ali ,as long as your alloy rad is not earthed all will be well, there is always a few volts in the coolant (stray currants), as you know the rads are on rubber mounts top and bottom with rubber hoses ,but if it gets earthed (missing mount etc) then the stray current will start eating away at the alloy as it exits the rad, we had a case of a alloy rad lasting 2 weeks turned out no rubber mounts and a poor engine earth
Corrosion causes radiators to fail otherwise we would not have corrosion inhibitors in coolant.
I would not use Supras and Soarers with alloy rads as a benchmark to prove whether corrosion causes radiators to fail or not.
Most of the KM's done on Soarers and Supras are on their factory copper radiator, so aftermarket replacement alloy ones are still going to be in good condition is the reason why you haven't seen many failures.
Sunday, January 26, 2014 - 04:22 pm, by: Scott Vim(1uz1jz)
Yeah I had stray current from a bad earth somewhere in the motor. It could have taken quite a few bucks to find it. Copper just last longer its been shown time and time again. People who look after their alloy rads, flush them constantly and have no electrical issues will get close to the life of a copper rad. Seen original copper rads 20 years old. I had noticeable corrosion inside rad in my alloy rad after only a few months. No warranty for this, guy said its common and warranty doesn't cover stray current or lack of care taken. He also told me if you are not racing it why did you go alloy. He said copper is more durable and cheaper. I had a lack of space so needed the most cooling capacity I could get.
Sunday, January 26, 2014 - 04:38 pm, by: Kevin Gaskell(Flecktarn_australia)
It's this simple:
Toyota/Lexus SPECIFY "red" (alloy motor) coolant in Toyota/Lexus motors. It doesn't get any simpler than that. You are NOT saving any money by putting $5 green coolant in your car instead of $36 red coolant. You WILL, if you use the wrong coolant have the following:
Now seriously, how many Soarers do you know have for some "mysterious reason" had to have waterpumps and radiators replaced? Lots. Why? The answer is simple. Just use the right coolant. Simple as that. False economy $5 versus $36.
Sunday, January 26, 2014 - 05:42 pm, by: Evan Kaio(Knave)
Today I did a coolant change. Dumped the red coolant (Nulon)into a bucket for inspection. Replaced with distilled water and a bottle of Redline Water Wetter. There was Nulon coolant and distilled water remaining in the system. Redline recommend at least 15% coolant for street cars. I do have to say this is experimental. Oh and it was the JZZ30. The 1UZ Toyota Red long life coolant used and the 06 Hilux Toyota Pink extra long life coolant.
Sunday, January 26, 2014 - 06:03 pm, by: Dave Rose(Sand_groper)
Scott Vim wrote on Sunday, January 26, 2014 - 04:22 pm:
Yeah I had stray current from a bad earth somewhere in the motor. It could have taken quite a few bucks to find it
One case i heard of the crank was slightly magnetized to the point it became a generator as it spun pumping stray currents into the block and coolant .You can do a test with a volt meter one lead on battery neg and one in the coolant 1 or 2 volts is OK
Sunday, January 26, 2014 - 07:27 pm, by: Blake Gloyn(Blakenz)
Kevin, i'm custom fitting a hilux radiator to my soarer. (i require a different shape to the factory one, as I am mounting a intercooler in front of it, and the intercooler pipes won't go around a wide factory soarer radiator.) Anyway, the tanks are copper(or brass- i forget which). What coolant should i run?
Tuesday, February 04, 2014 - 02:29 pm, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
From memory, the 2JZ-GE is just under 8 litres of coolant, so you can get away with 2 packs of pre-mix long life from Toyota, particularly as it's pretty difficult to totally drain the system (but flush, flush FLUSH that old green crap out as best you can!) My thermostat has given up today - overheated on the way up to Auckland - managed to get home OK but so angry at myself for not putting a new one in when I did the water pump last year - saved myself all of $30 by testing and reusing the old one - now suffering for it. Ah well I'll never do that again.
Wednesday, February 05, 2014 - 12:42 am, by: Ali Saeed(Ali)
On the topic of draining / flushing coolant. I drained my old coolant and tried to flush it all out, but even after several flushes the water was still a bit coloured. Gave up and filled with new coolant and distilled water. What is the best method to get every single drop of old coolant out?
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