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Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly); '84 MA61 Supra.

Posts: 211
Reg: 06-2008

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Saturday, February 14, 2009 - 11:04 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Andrew Meiers wrote on Saturday, February 14, 2009 - 10:26 pm:

What car was the gearbox from


Not entirely sure, but it had T2JZG-TE written on it, so I just assumed it came from a Supra?
Upload

As you can see, it also has a bracket on the rear end under the shifter housing, which I imagine was intended to be an exhaust system mount.

I had heard that there are two different input shaft lengths for the R154, and this gearbox is the longer of them (I had to include a 30mm spacer between the box and the new bell housing, which came with the kit when I bought it).

Any ideas Andrew?
Andrew Meiers
Goo Roo
Victoria
TT

Posts: 1009
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Saturday, February 14, 2009 - 11:59 pm, by:  Andrew Meiers (Acmtt) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

WEll its definately from a Supra, so that makes it either jza70 or ma70. Both the jza and the jzz have the same length input spline as they bolt up to the same motor.

Yes thats an exhaust and earth hanger.

"Neil had talked with me about how to convert the JZA70 Supra trans to a 91-93 JZZ30 Soarer trans. To allow the acceptance of a C's short shifter for the 91-93 Soarer and make the shifter location correct, he said I will need the following two geniune Toyota parts:
Housing, Shifter 33521-24040
Control Shift Lever 33570-24010"

google gave me the above, i believe the Neil is the Rush Imports famous one.

THe manual does not use the auto hole in the floor! There is a raised mound in front , approx 50mm. that is the stock manual hole. CUTTING required.
Andrew Meiers
Goo Roo
Victoria
TT

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Sunday, February 15, 2009 - 12:05 am, by:  Andrew Meiers (Acmtt) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The length of the jz bellhousing is approx 170mm, apparently the input length is the same on all r154, same part no. Just he bellhousing is a different length. Can you measure the old bellhousing?
Andrew Meiers
Goo Roo
Victoria
TT

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Sunday, February 15, 2009 - 12:09 am, by:  Andrew Meiers (Acmtt) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

here ya go.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=477519


scroll down for the pics
Andrew Meiers
Goo Roo
Victoria
TT

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Sunday, February 15, 2009 - 12:15 am, by:  Andrew Meiers (Acmtt) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Just thinking... post whoring as well

But if you swap the mounts, will the sump foul on the cross member?
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly); '84 MA61 Supra.

Posts: 212
Reg: 06-2008

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Sunday, February 15, 2009 - 09:47 am, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks Post Whore, you scored an archive! Well done.

And thanks too for all the info. The part numbers are very handy, and will help a lot. And that Supra forum link is gold - the extension housing is exactly what I was thinking of.

What you say about the input shaft length is interesting. The spacer that came with the bell housing kit was definitely referenced to two different shaft lengths - one was 160mm long (from the front face of the gearbox) and the other 190mm. Maybe it is the same input shaft, but a slightly different design on the gearbox casing itself? Who cares I guess - it fits now anyway.

I had already figured on having to cut a new hole for the manual, so that's easy.

The sump clearance thing also occurred to me, but as the sump is currently away being modified, I wasn't able to experiment with that yet. Once it comes back I'll put it on and try it all for fit. If it doesn't work, I haven't lost anything.
James Harris
Goo Roo
QLD
SOARERLESS :-(

Posts: 2505
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Monday, February 16, 2009 - 05:59 pm, by:  James Harris (Haro) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

thank GOD for the archive !

Those 100+ pictures were taking AGES to download.

Great thread though
Don Bagnall
Moderator
New Zealand
Thunderbird

Posts: 7293
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Monday, February 16, 2009 - 06:25 pm, by:  Don Bagnall (Baggs) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


James Harris wrote on Monday, February 16, 2009 - 05:59 pm:

thank GOD for the archive !



Amen to that brother!
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly); '84 MA61 Supra.

Posts: 213
Reg: 06-2008

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Monday, February 16, 2009 - 06:49 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I couldn't agree more chaps! But I don't necessarily want to cut the whole story short by not including photos.

Maybe the settings could be changed for this particular thread, so it archives after 25 posts instead of 45?
Andrew Meiers
Goo Roo
Victoria
TT

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Monday, February 16, 2009 - 10:40 pm, by:  Andrew Meiers (Acmtt) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Andre maybe just shorter posts . Paragraph per post? hehhehe
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly); '84 MA61 Supra.

Posts: 215
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Thursday, February 19, 2009 - 01:04 am, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Or
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly); '84 MA61 Supra.

Posts: 216
Reg: 06-2008

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Thursday, February 19, 2009 - 01:04 am, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

one
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly); '84 MA61 Supra.

Posts: 217
Reg: 06-2008

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Thursday, February 19, 2009 - 01:04 am, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

word
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly); '84 MA61 Supra.

Posts: 218
Reg: 06-2008

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Thursday, February 19, 2009 - 01:04 am, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

per
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly); '84 MA61 Supra.

Posts: 219
Reg: 06-2008

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Thursday, February 19, 2009 - 01:05 am, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

post?
Peter Svehla
Newbie
NSW
CBR

Posts: 4
Reg: 09-2008

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Thursday, February 19, 2009 - 10:19 pm, by:  Peter Svehla (Cpd) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Actually, lots of short smart arse remarks should do the trick.
Michael McKellar
Tinkerer
Overijssel
Mini

Posts: 32
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Friday, February 20, 2009 - 05:51 pm, by:  Michael McKellar (Mickmini) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Peter Svehla wrote on Thursday, February 19, 2009 - 10:19 pm:

Actually, lots of short smart arse remarks should do the trick.




That's why we are on the team isn't it Pete?
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly); '84 MA61 Supra.

Posts: 220
Reg: 06-2008

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Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 09:09 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

How are you for next Saturday Pete?
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly); '84 MA61 Supra.

Posts: 222
Reg: 06-2008

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Monday, February 23, 2009 - 06:09 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

What with birthday parties and work drinks over the weekend, I didn't get too much done on the car. The roof is all good now, and the colour and finish look great:


Upload

Upload

Upload


And as you can see the rear windscreen has been cut to the right shape (as have the rear windows). The screen fits nicely, and when properly attached takes the original convex shape of the glass screen quite well. Over the next couple of weeks I'll work on the proper fasteners for attaching the rear windows and screen, all of which will be removable.

I also spent a small amount of time with the Motec loom, and it is now passing through the firewall by means of the proper rubber grommet-thingy. Once I line up exactly where the Motec will be mounted, I'll be able to trim a bit of the excess off both the Motec and current engine looms, and splice them together.

I'm off to the suppliers tomorrow to pick up the rest of the parts for the fuel system, and I'll probably get a couple of bits and pieces for the oil system while I'm there.

And there's also been a bit of progress fibreglass-wise. The boot inner skeleton has been made, and is ready to be trimmed and added to the boot lid.

That's about all to report for now.

Cheers,

Andrew
Peter Nitschke
Junk Filterer
South Australia
UZZ30 UZZ31

Posts: 10428
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Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 02:35 am, by:  Peter Nitschke (Pen) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

That colour just keeps looking better all the time!
Dave Cazes
TryHard
sa
tt

Posts: 345
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Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 12:41 pm, by:  Dave Cazes (Cazman) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I just re read the thread, very very impressed except with a few things

1 is you didnt tub the front end, or seam weld it, they are very weak and clearance is shocking. They need more room up top for sure

2 is the coilover choice, D2 are twin tube and notorious for being crap and leaking within 6 months, do a little search.
The twin or base height coilover thing is a gimmick, all it does is lose your valuable stroke.
You will notice after 3 laps that the car gets softer as the dampers go off. Twin tube is bad and D2 is worse.
You also mention that you can put bilstein inserts in them, well technically yes you could, but youd be going so far backwards it wouldnt be funny.
The shortest bilstein inserts use only 30mm pistons (D2 use 20 or 25)
You need uber short inserts becasue the D2s are designed to have less stroke as thats what the boy racers love, they like lifting wheels in carparks etc.
The next size insert in bilstein is a 36mm, and its still not great for you intended use. this is what they use in ALL commodore fronts and most silvias etc, but not skylines

To put in perspective, the off the shelf bilsteins for supras and soarers use 46mm pistons. These are the run of the mill ones too.
HSD is not a great damper but they do have some good points, 2 being mono tube, and inverted in nissan fronts, as well as 45+ mm pistons.
They might be behind in dampening but they are half way there, but considering you only save $500 going to a HSD or D2, I just dont understand why people do this.

I was so glad to see that you seam welded the interior. But def seam weld your front strut towers, they are piss weak, and if you can and rules allow it, tub the front end.

You havent mentioned tyre diameters or ride height yet, but i think youll run into problems with insuffiecent stroke.

Your front diffuser is tops too, Id love a bonnet and boot too. I thought if I ever went track car Id just cut the frame out of the stock items, I assume theyd drop 1/2 their weight doing that.

if you can weigh the stock and aftermarket items for me, and same with the windows, Id love to kow the real difference. PM me if ya can :-)

Keep up the good work, and very nice colour too.

Also as far as wheels, up to $1500 gets you a 10kg rim, and then $4000 gets you a 6-8kg rim.

So far buddy clubs are the lightest, and at 4k they arent cheap, what im getting at is, I would use some lenso D1rs, search them up, they are cheap and easy to replace, and you wont be losing that much to unsprung, for the dollars its the best option. They are $1200 a set too
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly); '84 MA61 Supra.

Posts: 223
Reg: 06-2008

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Wednesday, February 25, 2009 - 06:31 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Peter Nitschke wrote on Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 02:35 am:

That colour just keeps looking better all the time!




Yeah, I like it. Looks even better in real life.

Thanks for the lengthy and constructive feedback Dave. With the thousands of dollars I make from selling you a bonnet and bootlid, I'll be sure to think about spending more money on suspension. In the mean time, what I have is what is there, and what is within limited budget. So I guess I'll put up with it and just develop the car over time and as money allows. My priority for now is just to get the thing on the track.

Not sure on the weight of the bonnet yet, but the new boot will be less than 3kg with the inner skeleton on it. I'm not sure of the original boot weight, but I think it is a bit more than that...

I can tell you the windows are a lot lighter than the glass ones, but haven't weighed each one. I'm more worried about the total at the end of it all.

As for tubbing the front end, nope. By the time I develop the car to warrant doing that, the whole front end will be cut off and space-framed. Baby steps mate...
Leon Wright
Goo Roo
WA
V8 UZZ31

Posts: 1017
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Friday, February 27, 2009 - 05:12 pm, by:  Leon Wright (Techman) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Andrew McKellar wrote on Wednesday, February 25, 2009 - 06:31 pm:

Not sure on the weight of the bonnet yet, but the new boot will be less than 3kg with the inner skeleton on it. I'm not sure of the original boot weight, but I think it is a bit more than that...




The bootlid has quite a considerable weight, my struts are a little tired and I have had it drop on my head. 3KG wouldn't have hurt that much in comparison!
Gavin Smith
TryHard
Victoria
1.6 fuel sipper

Posts: 123
Reg: 01-2008

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Sunday, March 01, 2009 - 03:46 pm, by:  Gavin Smith (Gavs) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Dave Cazes wrote on Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 12:41 pm:

2 is the coilover choice, D2 are twin tube and notorious for being crap and leaking within 6 months, do a little search.
The twin or base height coilover thing is a gimmick, all it does is lose your valuable stroke.
You will notice after 3 laps that the car gets softer as the dampers go off. Twin tube is bad and D2 is worse.
You also mention that you can put bilstein inserts in them, well technically yes you could, but youd be going so far backwards it wouldnt be funny.
The shortest bilstein inserts use only 30mm pistons (D2 use 20 or 25)
You need uber short inserts becasue the D2s are designed to have less stroke as thats what the boy racers love, they like lifting wheels in carparks etc.
The next size insert in bilstein is a 36mm, and its still not great for you intended use. this is what they use in ALL commodore fronts and most silvias etc, but not skylines

To put in perspective, the off the shelf bilsteins for supras and soarers use 46mm pistons. These are the run of the mill ones too.
HSD is not a great damper but they do have some good points, 2 being mono tube, and inverted in nissan fronts, as well as 45+ mm pistons.
They might be behind in dampening but they are half way there, but considering you only save $500 going to a HSD or D2, I just dont understand why people do this.




Dave just made me think of something here Andrew:
If you have a look at my profile, you will see where I work. My desk is next to the suspension engineers of our company and they're currently working on a new suspension line for serious off roaders. What they use in development is "take-aparts" which are essentially a stock shock with the top cut off and a pipe end welded on with a thread and a fitting for the gas to go in.

To modify these shocks is a matter of undoing the cap with a pipe wrench and pulling out the piston assembly etc, then replacing the internals in the shock to alter the effect of it, if you want more damping, a little less rebound etc.

Dunno if that's too complex for what you're doing but just an idea....
Dave Cazes
TryHard
sa
tt

Posts: 360
Reg: 08-2007

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Wednesday, March 04, 2009 - 12:14 pm, by:  Dave Cazes (Cazman) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Gavin
Yeah same thing as I said, thats what they do for 99% of all mac strut cars made after 1985. They use a cut n shut insert off the shelf (bilstein koni etc)

Problem is, as I said, is you cant run a big shock in there.
A the D2 are base height so you must run a really short damper, already a problem
B You must run a small diameter damper too.

If the shock is already out of the car, then the spring falls off anyway, so you dont really save any time with the insert style.

Most coilvoer brands have adapted this setup, and currently Racing logic and HSD are the only people to use a large piston.

But the thing is, with your take aparts you have to run a smaller diameter shock to fit inside the stock ones, why bother thats all Im saying.

All mac strut cars up till 84 used this setup, its nothing new, but the problem is its a compromised setup, no point going backwards with technology.

The toyota bilsteins are about $180 ea and can be revalved to suit any setup. This is what nascar use along with hyperco springs. Every bilstien has the same internals in the B46 (46mm piston) range

Also with your diff bushes, the ones you used are only pineapples, they dont replace any bushes, they only supplement the stock ones.

The rear bushes are now available through superpro, but if your going all out, solid titan ones are a better idea. You ideally want no cradle flex at all. Some guys in the USA have made thier own, and rpeorts are a massive difference, not recommended for street use though (noise)
Dave Cazes
TryHard
sa
tt

Posts: 361
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Wednesday, March 04, 2009 - 12:19 pm, by:  Dave Cazes (Cazman) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Andrew, sorry if I come off as harsh.

i have said to many many people when buying coilvoers, the difference might only be 3 secs a lap, most of your crucial setup is in the alignment, but our cars have very little available as far as suspension goes.

No im not saying you should change it now, best thing is, like you seem to be doing, is set the car up as it is, keep all the ride heights the same and all your alignment. Find the optimal settings till you reach the limit of what you have there.

also any updates?
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly); '84 MA61 Supra.

Posts: 224
Reg: 06-2008

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Sunday, March 08, 2009 - 03:28 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Not offended Dave. Like I said, when the suspension becomes the weakest part in terms of lap times, then I'll worry about reconfiguring it. As for the update:

I haven't done much as I've been away (and yes, Dublin is cool this time of year), but the fuel system is pretty much completed. The fuel cell is yet to be installed and connected up as the mounting brackets are still being constructed, but most of the rest of the system is done.

All fuel lines, the surge tank and pumps are installed, as well as 2 of 3 filters (one left to go up in the engine bay, which will be finer than the other two). The line from the main pump to the fuel rail runs through the channel under the passenger side door, and up through the passenger's kick panel and then the top of the firewall, and out through the cavity just in front of the windscreen. This was done to protect that main line from heat and debris.

Both the main line and the return line are mounted on the passenger side, and the pumps, lines and filters are also mounted that side and as far back as possible, all to help with weight distribution.

Here's what it looks like so far:


Upload

Upload

Upload

Upload


As you can possibly see in the photos, the wiring to the fuel pumps has also been done.

I'm just waiting on some suitable clamps for the rubber sections of the return line, the fuel cell mounts and that third filter, and the fuel system will be ready to go.

Coming soon:

Finishing off the steering column mounts, the seat mounts, the window net and the rear windows and windscreen.

And after that:

Well, everything else really...

Cheers,

Andrew
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly); '84 MA61 Supra.

Posts: 226
Reg: 06-2008

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Friday, March 13, 2009 - 09:41 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

A quick update on what (little) progress has been made this week:

I made up a mount for the Motec ECU and figured out where it will most likely be positioned, and sorted out how the loom will run from there out to the engine. No photos yet but when I take some of other things happening with the interior it'll show up.

All the fasteners for the rear windscreen, windows and guards have been procured. Just waiting on a Nutsert tool and the mapping out and installing of fasteners will take place.

Bruce has made great progress in the fibreglassing area. The rear bumper has had some more work done, and the front guards have had some blemishes filled and rubbed back, so they are now nearly ready for molds to be made from them. That will be quite complicated, with 4 or possibly 5 molds going to be needed to make up the complex shape of the guards.

The boot lid has also now been completed, with the exception of fasteners and painting. I'll spend a bit of time playing with it this weekend to sort the fasteners out, because it sits a bit low without the rubber boot seal being there. Once that is done, it should go off this week for painting.

Here's a couple of quick photos, one showing the inner skeleton that has been put in to maintain stability of the boot lid (yes, it is fibreglass); and one of the boot sitting in place on the back of the car.


Upload

Upload


Bruce also snapped a photo of part of the boot that is kind of special, but I've decided not to put it up yet. It will wait until the whole boot is painted and then I'll re-photograph it.

Next week we'll be attacking the rear bumper a bit more, planning and commencing work on the molds for the front and rear guards, and taking a mold of the inner skeleton of the bonnet (then work can start on actually making the bonnet).

More soon.

Cheers,

Andrew
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly); '84 MA61 Supra.

Posts: 227
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Friday, March 13, 2009 - 09:45 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Oh, and I should have added that we weighed the boot lid now it is finished.

3.737kg.
Jeff Bedsor
DieHard
QLD
TT

Posts: 542
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Wednesday, March 18, 2009 - 03:55 pm, by:  Jeff Bedsor (Jeff_bedsor) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Andrew, do you mean the inner skeleton is fibreglass as well? If it is when is your mate going to start making them to sell, they look sh#thot. Be a great weight reduction for mine when it comes off the road.
Phil Gibson
Goo Roo
WA
'91 UZZ31 track bunky, '94 blk/blk UZZ31

Posts: 1396
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Thursday, March 19, 2009 - 10:27 am, by:  Phil Gibson (Sciflyer) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

+1 !
Aaron Casey
DieHard
nsw
'94 jzz30 gttl, 2 mini's one supercharged :-)

Posts: 890
Reg: 08-2005

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Thursday, March 19, 2009 - 08:11 pm, by:  Aaron Casey (Blownminiturbo) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

hey andrew i am still currently doing my manual conversion and i swapped over the shifter position with a jzz30 one ill load a few pics up. only problem is you have to strip the box apart to do it.

as far as progress goes you are going really well cant wait to see it with all the bodywork done and painted :-)
Aaron Casey
DieHard
nsw
'94 jzz30 gttl, 2 mini's one supercharged :-)

Posts: 891
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Thursday, March 19, 2009 - 08:21 pm, by:  Aaron Casey (Blownminiturbo) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

the pic shows the hole you have to cut from underneath but you can see it above too. and the other shows the hole cut. i had to use a jigsaw with a wood bit in it haha that was very slow going and you have to be careful it doesnt grab haha

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Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly); '84 MA61 Supra.

Posts: 228
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Friday, March 20, 2009 - 05:41 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Jeff Bedsor wrote on Wednesday, March 18, 2009 - 03:55 pm:

do you mean the inner skeleton is fibreglass as well?


Yep, just confirming Jeff (and you too Phil) the boot lid is fibreglass, and so is the inner skeleton.

Worried about the detail in it? Then check this out:

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Aaron, thanks for the info. My problem stems from the seat, pedals and steering wheel being located further back in the car than standard (the driver's seat is now located where the back seat used to start). So I also have to move the gear shifter a fair way back too. All good fun...

Round 1 of the Sports Sedans championship is on this weekend at Eastern Creek, so there's no guessing where I'll be. Everyone on Soarer Central should come along too!

Cheers,

Andrew
Peter Svehla
Newbie
NSW
CBR

Posts: 5
Reg: 09-2008

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Wednesday, March 25, 2009 - 03:14 pm, by:  Peter Svehla (Cpd) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Wow. Ok that's probably excessive for a racecar, but certainly a great ad for Bruce's mastery of the fibreglassing process.
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly); '84 MA61 Supra.

Posts: 229
Reg: 06-2008

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Friday, March 27, 2009 - 09:44 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Wait until you see what's happening with the bonnet mate. Sometimes it is just an art-form...

Bonnets and boot lids will be available for sale. You will still be able to use the original hinges and latches (if you want them and order them that way). Stand by for more details.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1396
Reg: 04-2006

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Saturday, March 28, 2009 - 11:21 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Uh-oh. This is gonna get expensive.
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly); '84 MA61 Supra.

Posts: 231
Reg: 06-2008

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Saturday, March 28, 2009 - 11:53 am, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Not as expensive as you might think. And certainly less than importing from OS.

But I know what you have in mind Ben. You've had a look at Gary's thread and soon you'll be looking for bonnet, boot lid, all the panels and doors too! Of course, I'll be happy to oblige...
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Reg: 04-2006

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Saturday, March 28, 2009 - 07:06 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Am I that transparent?

I am addicted to weight loss. I am beating cars with double the power I have, and a lot of that has got to be the weight reduction. In fact my plans for the car have changed- I now have no intention of chasing big power. It costs too much, becomes unreliable, and creates problems down the drive train. Now it is all about efficiency. Maximise suspension, minimise useless weight. Make the most of what it has.

I can't do the doors...no cage. I'd be wanting to keep some side intrusion protection.
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly); '84 MA61 Supra.

Posts: 232
Reg: 06-2008

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Sunday, March 29, 2009 - 08:26 am, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I agree. Pulling the weight out of the car is a far better option when running on the type of budget that you and I are obviously dealing with. I figure on getting the weight out, setting the car up for handling and braking first, and then worrying about power increases later. Fair enough on the doors too, I forgot you hadn't put a cage in.

We did a bit more work on the mold for the inner skeleton of the bonnet the other night. It is going to come out looking great. As with the boot lid (see the pictures above) it will be an exact replica, right down to the dimples for the crumple zones.
Joe Russell
TryHard
Marlborough
4.0 V8 GT-L(UZZ31)

Posts: 306
Reg: 10-2008

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Sunday, March 29, 2009 - 06:18 pm, by:  Joe Russell (Joe_r) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Nice Andrew, I'm looking forward to the finished product. Weight reduction, sus and handling are the best things to have I reckon, power is relative. Still fun though
Michael McKellar
Tinkerer
Overijssel
Mini

Posts: 33
Reg: 08-2008

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Sunday, March 29, 2009 - 08:43 pm, by:  Michael McKellar (Mickmini) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Colin Chapman's mantra was "add lightness". We all know how quick Lotus cars that followed this concept were against much more powerful opposition....
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly); '84 MA61 Supra.

Posts: 236
Reg: 06-2008

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Thursday, April 16, 2009 - 06:43 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

OK so I wrote a great story and included some photos on Monday night, but somehow the whole lot disappeared into the ether, and now I'm here trying to remember what I said and what I showed.

I know I apologised for not posting anything recently, and that apology still stands. And I haven't posted anything for a while for two reasons:

1. Nothing has happened, and
2. Nothing has happened.

I still need a sponsor.

The fibreglass work continues, and next week the first bonnet will be completed. Not that I need more than one for the car, but with the way it looks I know a few people are going to want to buy one. Apart from the bonnet the other fibreglass bits are progressing slowly - we're really only devoting a couple of hours a week to them, so it is going to take a bit of time to finish off bumpers, spoilers and guards. And we haven't even started on the doors yet. More news about the bonnet and the boot lid (and where you can buy them) will be up in a couple of weeks.

On Monday I finally got to do a bit of tinkering with the car, which I hadn't actually seen for some weeks. Not that it went anywhere, I just hadn't had the time to even walk into the garage lately.

I spent a fair amount of time taking various measurements and planning out stuff like wiring looms, the on board fire system and the wheels. And thanks to you, Dave Cazes, I spent a lot of time with the jack and string lines and chalk and other goodies.

After Dave's comments on this and Ben's track car thread about chassis twist in the front end, I thought it prudent to do some experimenting. What I found interested me greatly, but it was not what I was expecting (especially after reading about Ben's efforts with his car). Now I think it had a lot to do with the roll cage (well, I know it did), and maybe also something to do with the lightness of the car at the moment (with everything stripped at the moment it is less than 1000kg), but there was NO CHASSIS FLEX, no matter what way I did the experiment. Pushing different wheels up, letting them drop down, moving them this way or that, it didn't matter. I couldn't identify any movement or twist.

In fact (and here's the giggle), the chassis was so stiff that when I jacked up one front wheel not only did the other one lift (to be expected, what with the sway bar), but so did the rear wheel on the side that I was jacking. I was happy enough with that, and that was without the strut tower brace in the car.

I'm glad I did the experiment though Dave, because it gave me more confidence with how the thing will behave when it eventually has to go around a corner.

As for other things that got done, the fire system is nearly ready to be installed, after the decision was made as to where to actually mount the canister. It is going to be located towards the back (where the back of the rear seat would normally be) and on the opposite side to the driver. It'll help with weight distribution and balance.

The steering column brackets were completed and installed, and the steering column/shaft is now properly secured. I played with it to be sure it is mounted rigid enough, and it was good. Here's what it looks like:


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Oh, and I also made some wheels. Yep, I constructed my own. And as it turns out, they are super light-weight and will be perfect. I'm happy to build them and sell them to anyone else who would like a set, and I can make them in any size you like. They are only good for dry tracks though, as I found they didn't perform too well once they got wet. Here they are:


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The front ones are 17x9, the rear are 17x11. The final rims on the front will be 17x9.5, but you get the idea. I made these up because I didn't trust my own calculations in relation to offsets (I suck at maths), so I wanted to be sure I had it right before I spend thousands on custom-made wheels. As it turned out my calculations were fine, but once again I'm glad I did the experiment.

The only other thing I did on Monday was experiment a bit with the mounting of the boot lid. It is a bit of a dilemma because of that excellent inner skeleton - the boot is fantastically stiffened and fits nicely on the car. Or it would if I was using hinges and a latch, and retaining the original boot seal. But I'm not, not and not. So the lid sits a little low and forward of where it should be. It will almost certainly be secured with Dzus fasteners (it needs to be easily removable for refuelling, and will have to clear the rear wing mounts as it comes off), so there are a couple of options for how it will eventually sit.

Does anyone have an old boot seal laying around that they have replaced and no longer need? Doesn't matter if it is damaged, I'll want to cut it up anyway. Any donations would be appreciated.

Well, that's about all I got up to on Monday (or the whole Easter weekend for that matter). More news as anything progresses...

Cheers,

Andrew
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1438
Reg: 04-2006

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Friday, April 17, 2009 - 11:41 am, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I wouldn't have thought you would need a tower brace? My understanding is they are a mod to stiffen up street cars, but with the stitch welding and cage I would have thought you have more then compensated for it.

I am considering spot welding around the suspension towers, but don't have the time, energy or equipment to remove the engine from the car. I am unsure how much difference it will make to do the small area I can access. Really, I guess I am looking for things to do whilst there is no money to spend.
Andrew McKellar
TryHard
NSW
Soarer Sports Sedan (well, nearly); '84 MA61 Supra.

Posts: 237
Reg: 06-2008

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Friday, April 17, 2009 - 06:35 pm, by:  Andrew McKellar (Toymax) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I think the strut tower brace that you built will serve the purpose perfectly well Ben, and you won't need to go to the effort of welding the towers. Did you do the jacking up experiment after you installed the brace? That should show you all you need to know, when you compare it with the "before" experiment.

The strut tower brace in mine is there simply to hold the tops of the towers at the one constant position under heavy cornering loads. The chassis is plenty stiff from the firewall back, but I have made no modifications in front of the firewall, so I wanted to be really sure the geometry stayed rigid. Can't really hurt, right?

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