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Message |
Andrew McKellar
DieHard
NSW
V8 Soarer Sports Sedan
Posts: 699
Reg: 06-2008
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Clayton Carlyle wrote on Monday, November 25, 2013 - 09:14 pm:I have made a new setup for the rear water bridge on the engine out of a piece of dash 10 fuel rail which will allow me to run a line to a separate filler/bubble tank. I'll post some pictures & if it works well I can make you one if you need to get rid of that rubber hose.
Outstanding Clayton. I'll take one! |
Aaron Casey
Goo Roo
NSW
'94 2jz JZZ30 gttl, '93 UZZ31 track, VT, 2x Leyland Mini's
Posts: 3688
Reg: 08-2005
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Saw these being made in person. Really knows his stuff and is a great guy so he has got a new customer if I need some stuff made up ;p
Ben have you thought about a 1.5j setup. That way keep your top end/1j setup but then have the extra torque of the 3l? Going from a 1 to a 2j in blue car the extra torque is sooo much more power in mid range.
with the rear hoses I was thinking of making a pipe with a fitting on there to bleed any air out. As I have also deleted interior hvac assembly. If you chuck some pics up ill see if I will also be interested haha |
Andrew McKellar
DieHard
NSW
V8 Soarer Sports Sedan
Posts: 701
Reg: 06-2008
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Got the gearbox cross member sorted this weekend (with thanks to Anthony at AGM Engineering):
And for those who are very observant... The rear yoke for the gearbox is not a slip yoke, which causes a little dilemma. The diff and tail shaft (which is still a 2-piece) are solidly mounted, so there is no give anywhere, and there should be at least some. That give was supplied by the slip yoke on the rear of the R154, but is no longer there with the Holinger. Anthony is currently thinking up the best way around the problem...
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Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell
Posts: 3648
Reg: 04-2006
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Insert a slip joint between the centre bearing and the diff?
There wouldn't be that much movement would there? I mean not like a live axle car where the length of the prop shaft is constantly changing as the diff moves through an arc of much shorter length than the shaft.
Actually thinking about it, there would be very little movement between the centre bearing and diff, as that is all pretty well fixed from the factory. Only the rubber donut provides any relief. Maybe the slip joint needs to go on the front half. |
Andrew McKellar
DieHard
NSW
V8 Soarer Sports Sedan
Posts: 702
Reg: 06-2008
|
Ben Lipman wrote on Monday, January 27, 2014 - 11:08 am: Maybe the slip joint needs to go on the front half.
I reckon front half. The only "movement" will be slight and it will be the gearbox moving (as it is attached to the engine, which moves slightly under load). Maybe a 1-piece tail shaft. I dunno; will leave it to the engineer... |
Allan Langford
Goo Roo
Vic
UZZ31
Posts: 1088
Reg: 05-2010
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hack up a holden commodore tailshaft use it's center bearing and CV joint, cheap and handles abuse. |
Clayton Carlyle
TryHard
NSW
v8 soarer twin turbo
Posts: 299
Reg: 04-2009
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I have a full v8 commodore tail shaft doing nothing in the garage if you need it Andrew but I'm not sure what Alan means as I still don't see how you could weld it to yours and fit it with your solid discs without dropping the diff every time? |
Andrew McKellar
DieHard
NSW
V8 Soarer Sports Sedan
Posts: 703
Reg: 06-2008
|
Thanks Clayton. If Anthony decides that's the way to go I'll let you know. Thanks for the suggestion too Allan. |
Allan Langford
Goo Roo
Vic
UZZ31
Posts: 1090
Reg: 05-2010
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Ignore the TVS2300....
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Andrew McKellar
DieHard
NSW
V8 Soarer Sports Sedan
Posts: 712
Reg: 06-2008
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Tail shaft problem is sorted. I'll post pictures when it is done.
I don't think I posted these before, but here's some photos of a trial fit of a Chev engine. It didn't fit. Well, not without major modifications to the firewall and other things.
And here's a quick snap of the current progress with the 1UZ that's going into the car.
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Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell
Posts: 3698
Reg: 04-2006
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great looking engine! I love the throttle body look. I assume a lot of this goodness will be covered up by ducts and shrouds?
WHen do you think your car is ready to hit the track again? |
Andrew McKellar
DieHard
NSW
V8 Soarer Sports Sedan
Posts: 713
Reg: 06-2008
|
Yeah, gotta sort out ducting, air box and filter yet. Base of air box will be at base of trumpets, so you will see part of the throttle bodies, but it won't look nearly as sexy...
I want the car to be ready now. I may not meet that deadline. Given present funding limitations it'll still be a while I think. |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell
Posts: 3699
Reg: 04-2006
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Just curious as it seems I may be a while too... |
Andrew McKellar
DieHard
NSW
V8 Soarer Sports Sedan
Posts: 714
Reg: 06-2008
|
Ben Lipman wrote on Sunday, February 16, 2014 - 07:25 pm:Just curious as it seems I may be a while too...
Maybe we should start with a bourbon consumption race in the meantime then? |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell
Posts: 3701
Reg: 04-2006
|
Andrew McKellar wrote on Monday, February 17, 2014 - 03:32 pm:Maybe we should start with a bourbon consumption race in the meantime then?
Oh man I got this!
The ones you gave me are long gone. So are the ones from Christmas and new years. The one I bought to celebrate moving into the new house is almost spent. Actually, I might have a problem...
...nope, the bottle-o's are in the supermarkets here. |
Andrew McKellar
DieHard
NSW
V8 Soarer Sports Sedan
Posts: 718
Reg: 06-2008
|
Quick progress report, because I know Ben is off this week and he'll be watching...
I'm waiting on a few bits and pieces to be sorted before I can finish the engine off and install it properly in the car, as well as get the clutch, input shaft for the gearbox and another couple of mechanical things finished. I've made a start on a bit of fibreglass work, but it is slow going.
Meanwhile, I have put the engine in the car as a sort of mock up, for a couple of reasons: I needed the room in the garage to do other stuff and I wanted to check the fit with the throttle bodies under the bonnet and under the strut tower brace. Here's how that turned out:
Everything fits under the bonnet OK, but my original plan for a closed air box is thwarted by how close the trumpets are to the strut tower brace. Plan B is now underway. Individual sock filters and cool air ducted to the area of the throttles from the letterbox slot in the front spoiler is now the go.
That meant dropping the radiator down about 50mm to leave enough room above it for the air duct to pass over (the ducting will actually be attached to the underside of the bonnet). With the radiator lower in the car it actually matches up better with the hole in the front spoiler, with the original plastic ducting/cowling now a good fit to direct air over it. I've also moved the overflow bottle to the other side, to allow for an engine oil cooler to be installed. It'll mean running a new, longer overflow hose and breather hose, but that's no big deal:
All the coolers have been temporarily mocked up as well. The engine oil cooler is a PWR one, and I've run new lines and a remote oil filter as well (mounted vertically, because I've never understood why they are mounted horizontally so that oil goes everywhere when you take them off). The new mount for the filter also allowed the easy install of an oil temperature sender, so that is now good too.
We've also installed a new power steering cooler (after the previous one split at the last round in 2012) and also had the power steering pump reconditioned. I also wanted to run a gearbox cooler with the Holinger, so a Tilton oil pump is in position (but yet to be properly mounted) and new lines and a new cooler installed for that. The engine oil cooler (the black one) will have air ducted over it from the front spoiler (and a stone guard installed). The power steering cooler (silver) and gearbox oil cooler (blue) sit behind the radiator and will probably also have ducting. So here it is:
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Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell
Posts: 3726
Reg: 04-2006
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Nice!
I have just taken possession of a nice new 25 row Mocal oil cooler. Due to accidentally using a braided oil hose as an engine earth, I am getting a new hose made up as well. I was just poking around in the engine bay yesterday looking for a place to put the remote filter. Currently mine is under the car near the gearbox, and will probably stay there if I can't find a better spot. |
Matthew Salkeld
TryHard
South Australia
1JZ powered 180sx
Posts: 204
Reg: 07-2008
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The 1UZ is a beautiful motor once you've stripped off all the factory clutter... looking forward to seeing more progress! |
Andrew McKellar
DieHard
NSW
V8 Soarer Sports Sedan
Posts: 723
Reg: 06-2008
|
Thanks Matthew, trying to show more progress... Got some more done this week, mostly today thanks to the assistance of Michael, who was most helpful making up little brackets and such.
The aim of today was to get the engine oil cooler and the gearbox oil pump properly installed. During the week I wired up the oil pump, running it off its own switch as recommended by Tilton, so that gearbox warm-up can be achieved prior to the pump and cooler coming into play (therefore the oil is thinner and easier for the pump to work on). I'd just about run out of space on the main switch panel, so I used a piece of angle to mount the new switch on top of it:
To install the oil pump I had already measure out where the lines would run, so all we had to do was mount the pump, with it installed on vibration isolation material:
Before we could install the oil cooler, we had to properly measure where it was going to go, which meant putting the front spoiler/bumper assembly back on the car. Prior to doing that, we cut down the sub-frame that the driving lights were mounted on, then had to make up new brackets for the lights to hold them in the correct position. The bits we cut off the sub-frame were no longer needed as we aren't running headlights anymore and the centre section would have been in the way of the air duct for the engine intake. We also did a test fit of the old plastic air duct for the radiator. We still need to duct the bottom and sides of the radiator, but the plastic shroud is a good fit for the top:
So once all that other messing around was done, we were able to get onto making up the brackets for the engine oil cooler. It is now installed and all the lines in place:
Now I have to pull most of it back out again, then pull the engine back out to finish it off. Still working on the air ducting for the engine intake, a rear wing and a couple of other bits and pieces. Meanwhile today we discovered two broken bushes in the rear suspension, so the whole lot will need to come out and be replaced. What joy. |
Andrew McKellar
DieHard
NSW
V8 Soarer Sports Sedan
Posts: 724
Reg: 06-2008
|
Did a bit on the car over the weekend. Dropped the whole rear subframe out and pulled all the suspension arms off. New trailing arms and toe rods are on the way, and we are having a think about what to do with the control arms. Once I have it figured out I'll post up photos of what we've done.
Meanwhile I did something about ducting for the engine oil cooler. Michael was over last week and we did some quite scientific stuff measuring air flow, as well as precisely measuring exactly how/where the ducting needed to go. Michael then came up with an engineering drawing for me to work off:
It is good having engineers around me, I must say.
I had some scrap fibreglass pieces laying around that were leftovers or offcuts from other things, so rather than going to the trouble of making up new moulds I just ran off the drawings and cut pieces to the right sizes (although I did deviate from the drafted plan a little by adding 50mm extra to the top and bottom, to give it a way to mount the thing). Then I mocked it up on the car, holding the pieces together with aluminium tape.
Once I was happy with the sizes and how it would end up, I added resin (which was donated by Sullivan Motorsport) and a couple of layers of glass to hold it all together. When that went off I removed it from the car and finished it off. I looks rough on the outside but nobody will see it under the bumper anyway, and the inside where the air flows is smooth. Once it was done I put it back on the car and did some fine tuning with the bumper back in place, then took it back off to paint it. The top and bottom of the duct are attached to the oil cooler mounts, leaving just a small gap vertically on each side that I covered with aluminium tape.
I ran out of daylight and time on Sunday night so I wasn't able to reassemble the car and run a final air flow test now the duct is there. Once I do that I'll publish all those results.
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Michael McKellar
TryHard
NSW
Mini
Posts: 124
Reg: 08-2008
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nice improv. we are the whatever works budget level after all.
just need to do pressure drop test across the core to see that it works plastic tube, some water, food dye,and that big bloody fan of yours ... |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell
Posts: 3735
Reg: 04-2006
|
Looks the goods. Nice work. |
Aaron Casey
Goo Roo
NSW
'94 2jz JZZ30 gttl, '93 UZZ31 track, VT, 2x Leyland Mini's
Posts: 3696
Reg: 08-2005
|
Looking good andrew! |
Andrew McKellar
DieHard
NSW
V8 Soarer Sports Sedan
Posts: 737
Reg: 06-2008
|
Finally a little progress to report on...
After a bit of mucking around with various bits, the engine is now almost complete. The only thing left is to sort out the fuel rails, as moving to ITBs meant the old way of mounting them did not fit. The rails have been modified and we just need to come up with some sort of brackets to hold them in place. I'll report on that at some stage in the future.
Meanwhile, those who remember the old engine may recall all the hoses we were running on it, to link the various water outlets (such as the heater hoses, one of which was a pipe running from the back of the water pump through the valley of the block) that were really superfluous to requirements. Here's what it looked like:
I figured there had to be a better way than running hoses all over the place, so we modified things to tidy all that up. We started with a brand new water pump, then cut the outlets off it, drilled and tapped the holes and sealed them up with plugs. We did the same for the thermostat housing at the front of the engine and the water bridge at the rear of the engine (the water outlets that were cut off are marked in red):
Once the water pump had been modified and was fitted, we could get on with cam timing. This proved a problem as we could not get the timing exactly right with the standard gears. The specifications called for intake timing at 1mm lift of 19.5 BTDC (opening) and 43.5 ABDC (closing). The best we could get by moving the belt from one tooth to the next was 15 BTDC & 46 ABDC on the left bank and 27 BTDC & 51 ABDC on the right bank. Close, but not close enough. With 48 teeth on each gear, it is a 7.5-degree jump from tooth to tooth, meaning 15-degrees on the crank shaft. It was time for adjustable gears...
Adjustable gears proved impossible to get hold of, so we had to get our gears modified to make them adjustable. That meant machining new centres out of chrome-moly, complete with slots for adjustment:
Then machining the centres out of the old gears and skimming the surface of the spokes flat, then drilling and tapping a hole in each of the spokes:
A quick check for fitment before cleaning up the new plates and doing the slot for the locating pins on the shaft:
And the final product:
So yesterday we were able to finish off the cam timing (which is now dead accurate with the spec. sheet) and assemble the peripherals onto the engine.
Also still working on fibreglass ducting for radiator, repairing those side skirts and a few other bits and pieces. |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car, plus a spare shell
Posts: 3771
Reg: 04-2006
|
nice work. Trick modification to the cam gears. |
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