Sunday, January 11, 2015 - 08:30 pm, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
still a bit to be done here. I need a spring wound in the opposite direction, a bracket to hold the throttle cable and a new throttle cable. still thinking about a way to keep the cruise control but not sure how at the moment.
I'm pretty happy with the bell crank setup, I know there's a bit of meat in the supercharger housing ( I work for a company that has destroyed at least a 100 of them). The only thing that could cause trouble would be housing distortion caused by tightening the bolt. It feels Ok turning over by hand but that's about 3RPM not 10,000RPM so time will tell.
Sunday, January 11, 2015 - 09:03 pm, by: Daryl Demarte(Helieng)
Mate, why didn't you make a bracket up to come off the two top bolts of the rear plenum attachment and fit the bell crank to it instead of drilling and tapping into the S/C case!!!-
Monday, January 19, 2015 - 02:06 pm, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
Hi Daryl, I did think about it. in the end it came down to a couple of things. least important aesthetics, most important and I know we're only talking about 10mm here but height. I still have to fit fiberglass ducting above the unit. I'm pretty sure it'll be ok. I'll post some photos tonight of a supercharger from work to show the case profile and amount of meat there.
on other news I should take delivery of my brand new t56 magnum and tilton oil pump at some stage this week. Neither of the boxes I had were all that good. Also after staring at my gearbox adaptor for a quite a while.......I ordered a CRS adaptor. Now thinking about the clutch/flywheel set up, I think it'll do for the first tune and running in but will need to be replaced prior to the big pulley and retune.
Thursday, March 19, 2015 - 11:09 am, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
Ok so a bit of a delay from the last post but see attached photos of a whipple unit from work (blew the shaft seals) for a referance on the meat in the housing
Thursday, March 19, 2015 - 11:20 am, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
New flywheel and clutch, decided that the other flywheel wasn't up to standard and I like my legs too much to trust it. On another note if anyone's interested in the old flywheel/clutch combo PM me. I think it would be ok for lower power outputs.
Thursday, March 19, 2015 - 11:29 am, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
neatening up the under bonnet wiring for the battery relocation. removed the oem distribution block from under the air cleaner ( or where the air cleaner used to be) and replaced it with this not so little beauty.
Thursday, March 19, 2015 - 11:48 am, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
fitted the flywheel and clutch up with new arp bolts for a 4AGE.
Measured up the distance from the clutch fingers to the adaptor and calculated the CSC position.
Due to the fact that the CSC needs 14-17mm crush and my 1 piece flywheel I require 32mm of spacing behind the CSC!!
I got some nice looking spacers from Mal Wood and test fitted the adaptor and bellhousing, or tried to. The CRS adaptor is fine for the T56 but due to the larger dimensions of the T56 Magnum I had to machine (by hand as I'm mostly only home on weekends) clearance around some areas. photos to follow on this.
Next issue was that once the CSC was spaced out this far the fittings coming out the side ran directly into the adaptor. Grrrh.
I managed to find a 90deg staple lock adaptor for way too much money from the states and a compact 90 hose end for the bleeder.
unfortunately even with the compact 90 on the bleeder it was touching the adaptor, I'm now waiting on a Banjo bolt and hose end to arrive so I can continue with the fitting.
Thursday, March 19, 2015 - 11:59 am, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
I got my HTD pulleys back and there is now no offset. also had the flanged idler pulleys arrive.
I got a hold of some machined shank SHCS's but the only ones close were 16mm, so I got a mates son (apprentice at a machining shop) to machine them down to 15mm and take a little off the head to clear the circlips as well as taking a large chunk off the front of the Landcruiser fan idler bracket. I only wanted it for the AC comp mount. once the Belts (both serpantine and HTD) arrive I'll measure up a plate to attach to the bracket for the Supercharger Idlers.
Thursday, March 19, 2015 - 12:06 pm, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
As long as its a monster that's reliable I'll be happy. The law of the power triangle says cheap,power,reliability you can only have 2. pick yours. I guess well see. ha ha
Hi Damon, does the standard clutch master cylinder push enough oil to operate the CSC properly? I read somewhere that you had to increase the bore the master cylinder? Looking to do the T56 changeover myself and have started to gather the parts. What do you think of the Castlemaine setup (adapter, flywheel, clutch) for a standard V8? Thanks, Jan
I also noticed that you have wrapped the extractors, I was advised against this by an exhaust shop as it could make the stainless extractors (Rush) become brittle? All advise welcome. Thanks Jan
Monday, March 30, 2015 - 12:11 pm, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
Hi Jan, Unsure about the master cylinder at the moment but should be able to give you some feedback later this week. The magnum installation is a b@&$h and not yet complete. The Castlemaine adaptor is quality for a t56 but needs machining for the magnum. Unsure about their clutch kit as I went a different route but I would imagine that getting the complete kit from them will save you some headaches.
I have heard that the exhaust wrap will reduce the life of the extractors but thought it was worth it for a couple of reasons. 1. On my last motor using these extractors (jet hot coated) and a twin straight through 2 1/2" exhaust (press bent) the dyno graph showed I was losing somewhere in the vicinity of 50hp!!! I might have been sceptical of this figure if I hadn't watched the protective plastic cover slowly melt off the fuel lines under the car on a power run. Also driving the car back from rocky to mackay on a cold night I had to have the aircon flat out on my feet just to be able to have my feet in the foot well. 2. If/when they wear through I will get some custom extractors made and sent them to zircotec to be treated properly.
Once I get it back on the dyno I be able to tell where the restriction was as the new exhaust won't be a restriction :-) I'll update once I now about the master cylinder for sure. At the moment I need to find a 4-5" shifter relocation to stop the magnum shifter coming up in the dash.
Did you use a new or second hand clutch pedal assembly? I have obtained new components and assembled a new clutch pedal assembly but have noticed that the spring that holds the pedal up, once you pass half travel of the clutch pedal pushes the pedal to the floor. Is this normal?
Wednesday, April 08, 2015 - 03:13 pm, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
Hi Jan, That sounds about right, mine is second hand. I'll double check it on when i get home on the weekend and let you know. No answer on the master cylinder side of things as my csc leaked when I filled the reservoir prior to bleeding. The gearbox is back out and sitting under the car.
I did get the drive shaft measured and sent the diff in to the drive shaft mob, who recon they can replace the companion shaft with a 4 bolt version. Time will tell.
Monday, April 13, 2015 - 03:00 pm, by: Clayton Carlyle(Clayton)
Hey Damon, awesome work man. You are going through everything I did when doing the manual conversion. With the CSC lines I custom made my own & shaved the adaptor plate slightly. If yours is far enough in then you could just drill a hole in the bell housing. I to am using 3 CSC spacers for the right amount of push needed on the pressure plate fingers, it should be just touching.
Your shifter location will be too far forward with the Magnum but there should be a way around that. I'm currently working on a new shifter for the TR6060 & I'll let you know if something similar could work for you. Have you tried using the standard VE commodore shifter off the T56? It's two long on the t56 but might be perfect with the magnum? Just drill new holes in the base plate if the plates two long at the front. Regarding the master cylinder, I managed to JUST get enough adjustment of the floor but I will be honing the cylinder in the future.
Monday, April 13, 2015 - 03:58 pm, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
Hi Clayton, thank mate, not wrong on the shifter score. I cut a good chunk out of the tunnel to get the box into position so I could get the drive shaft made. I spent quite a bit of time with a drift and a club hammer to get the gearbox in as well. on the tunnel not the gearbox...
I'm looking at the sikky relocation shifter at the moment but it depends if they get back to me or not.... their agent in Aus, Hi octane is useless but that's another story. Obviously not a fan of the current exchange rate.
All the info That Mal Wood gave me on the csc was that it needs between 14-17mm crush... The ports on the csc point directly at the adaptor which is a royal PITA. I fitted the box up filled the clutch master cylinder and left it overnight to fill. Came back to the shed in the morning and there was brake fluid between the adaptor and gearbox. Grrr. So I pulled the box and got a longer hose to join the clutch with the box on the ground to see where the leak is.
Looks like it's coming from the banjo bolt I had to use to clear the adaptor on the bleed line. I replaced the copper washers i was using with alloy ones and did it up FT but its still leaking so this weekend I'll pull the fittings out and hit the csc with some wet and dry and a mirror.
To be honest I don't really get how these csc's work. It may not be the only problem. I think the master cylinder is fine as its pumping fluid but I would have thought that I'd be able to feel some kind of movement from the csc while bleeding it(even with the small leak that I have) and I couldn't. I also have to change the 9/16 uno to jic nipple and 90 adaptor i had in the spray port to a 90 adaptor as the 2 pieces together just touch the tunnel and I can see it being an issue down the track.
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