Monday, April 13, 2015 - 07:40 pm, by: Clayton Carlyle(Clayton)
Hi Nik, I didn't know you also used a Magnum. Is this yours before the install? I remember you used Neil's kit, is that right? Did that adaptor plate come machined like that?
If that shifter works then that's a very easy fix. A lot easier than using a tr6060.
Monday, April 13, 2015 - 08:37 pm, by: Nik Peacock(Niko)
Hi Clayton, I had the adapter machined, the shifter was shortened a bit more on the box end at install i think, still have to cut the tunnel, I'll get some photo's in the next couple of days of it in the car. The master was supplied by Neil I don't know the exact details but believe it is modified with a bigger bore, I don't know what it's from, maybe hilux, someone here may know.
I am looking to use the original Holden clutch master. In the process of making up an adapter. Holden master has a remote fluid reservoir which will need to mounted. The adapter will be 30mm thick and the Toyota and Holden bolts are about 90 degrees apart so bolt the adapter to the clutch pedal and bolt the Holden master to the adapter
Tuesday, April 14, 2015 - 10:08 am, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
Thanks for the info gents.
I'll check the csc for cracks when i get home on the weekend. In the mean time I just brought a new Landcruiser master cylinder 3/4" bore on ebay for $75. and will mod as per the below.
Tuesday, April 14, 2015 - 10:31 am, by: Nik Peacock(Niko)
Hi Damon, Neil's kit came with a new billet sleeve for the thrust bearing, maybe that is where the difference is gained because I used the stock csc no spacing. Thrust photo is stock t56 that was stuffed used a new magnum
Tuesday, April 14, 2015 - 10:46 am, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
Thanks Nik, only looks like 10mm or so by the photo, at the moment mine is 34mm. do you have a photo or measurement of the flywheel/clutch assy depth by any chance?
to be honest i didn't even think about the csc when ordering flywheel clutch etc. the thought has crossed my mind to change the twin to a triple just to bring the csc back a bit.
The adapter for the CSC supplied by Castlemaine Rod Shop is 35mm. With the plumbing for the CSC is there a problem with drilling 2 holes in the automatic bell housing to run the pipes? How loose should the staple lock adapter on the fluid in line of the CSC be? Mine seems to have more play than I would expect, it is the unit that came with the second hand T56, and does not appear to be leaking.
Saturday, May 02, 2015 - 06:25 pm, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
There shouldn't be an issue with a couple of holes in the bellhousing. Just put a couple of grommets in them so you don't wear through the hyd line. Staple lock should be firm, turn with a spanner not with your hand. the seal is just a quad ring. Get one from your local hydraulic shop and a new roll pin it'll be good as new, shouldn't cost $2 for both.
Damon, where did you get the 90 degree staple lock adapter and what where the specifications? Is the other 90 degree adapter available locally, and specifications ?
Sunday, May 03, 2015 - 06:41 pm, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
Ebay.com mate. Search t56 fitting. About $50 US + postage Expensive but it was the only thing I could get to work and I spent a bit coming to that conclusion. -4jic male
Monday, July 06, 2015 - 10:19 pm, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
Ok no updates for a while. I'll post some photos when I get the dash back.
Since the last update my apexi gauges have arrived, I've removed the dash and taken it to the motor trimmers (he's going to fibreglass part of the dash to sink the gauges in. So that they look like they were meant to be there.)
I test fitted the LS400 calliper so and dba club spec front rotors.(the braided lines that came with the callipers must have been for a LS as they were to short.). Side note. Old rims no longer fit.... Just ordered a set of work zest st1 eta 13weeks.
Removing the accel cable tomorrow, im going to send it to maltec for modification ( and get a set of ss brake lines while I'm at it).
And my solid diff and subframe bushes are now in the country ( just not Mackay yet ha ha).
Monday, August 10, 2015 - 03:56 pm, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
My computer has died so no photos but here's a little update.
New accelerator cable is back (with braided brake lines) from maltech.
I decided to do the rear brakes too, so club spec supra rear discs are sitting on the floor waiting for the supra 2pots to arrive.
I pulled the rear subframe out to put new poly bushes in it..... As with all other things in this project nothing is simple. Sand blasted the frame, stitch welded it and went over the welds that didn't look great, straightened a toe link mount and reclaimed the slots, re blasted and dropped it off at the powder coaters. It'll be blue, hopefully it looks alright.
I've also ordered figs engineering rear lower control arms and toe links.
I split the boots on the upper control arm ball joints when removing them (obviously thinking about something else at the time.) so after looking into replacements I've ordered marks engineering upper control arms....I haven't done anything about traction rods yet because I'd like to get a hold of a supra rear subframe and I'm pretty sure the traction rods aren't compatible. Anyway I think that's a while off.
I've sorted adaptors for all of the gauges bare one. The engine coolant sensor, I'm not sure what to do with it. At the moment I'm thinking remove the dash sensor and stick it in their, I don't want to run one of the radiator hose adaptors and I'm worried that if I tee into the dash sensor point I'll end up with a air lock in it. Drilling and taping the water bridge would be the best bet but that would mean pulling the supercharger off and that's a huge job that I'm not really interested in.
Oh my body kit just arrived from Dan I haven't opened it yet but I'm a little excited.
Saturday, December 19, 2015 - 02:14 pm, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
Ok finally get to upload a few photos I hope they turn out right way up.
The banjo fitting caused a little grief, although the surface on the slave cylinder input port looked flat, it wasn't so the box had to come all the way back out once i located the leak. a piece of mirror, some 2000 grit wet and dry and about 30 minutes later, no worries.
Saturday, December 19, 2015 - 02:21 pm, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
As you can see the shifter location wasn't ideal. I ended up settling on a sikky engineering shifter re-locator. I can't find any photos of it so i've just done a screenshot. nice bit of kit, its also a short shifter.
Next on the list was as previously mentioned the rear subframe. out apart and blasted. and a complete set of battle version subframe and diff solid mounts
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