Friday, September 15, 2017 - 10:03 am, by: Tai Johnsen(Privatejohnsen)
I finally got the time to integrate the small OLED into the dash.
Being a POV pack manual dash I was quite surprised to see the PRND321 display in between the ODO and clock right where I wanted to put my little screen, so I had to place it on the front side of the glass / mirror instead.
I had to notch out some plastic to get the display low enough that it didn't impede the tacho and also make a small cut to feed the ribbon cable through to the back of the display.
To cycle through the display screens I got a hold of a scroll dash button assembly and ran some wires out the back of the connector to my control board
It is completely invisible when the car is off and when the screen is set to off, but nicely visible when powered up. Just a little bit dimmer than the rest, but seeing as though there is no brightness control that's probably a good thing for when the headlights come on and the dash dims.
All in all a great little project and very happy with the results.
Mark Tierney DieHard NSW JZZ30 GTTL 446rwkw, GS350 F-Sport, Celsior, Ducati SS
Tuesday, October 24, 2017 - 12:46 pm, by: Tai Johnsen(Privatejohnsen)
I finally relocated the heat-soaking factory air temperature sensor down to the inter-cooler piping and as expected the data is much more accurate.
I started the car and let it idle up to temperature again to compare it with the previous log I had taken.
The top two lines are engine coolant temp and the bottom two are intake air temp.
Ignoring the offset starting point you can see the factory sensor just keep on rising with the engine.
The new setup will allow me to turn back on the 'Auto VE air temperature compensation' in the ECU to more accurately meter the air coming into the engine.
You can see the BOV and IAT sensor in this pic of the front laft wheel cavity.
The new fuel pump went in too with a near disaster from a failed crimp on the factory plug.
The pump itself tho seems very good so far being super quiet, holding pressure with 200Kpa added to the regulator line and being able to flow more for less current than the Denso unit.
Saturday, November 04, 2017 - 06:57 pm, by: Tai Johnsen(Privatejohnsen)
The new Garrett 'G' series of turbo look like a serious competitor to the smaller EFR line of turbos.
The 660 HP one looks downright amazing for the size of it. The 67mm compressor wheel looks to flow the same as the EFR 71mm at a HIGHER efficiency! This would mean similar (if not more) power than the 7163 with possibly even better response from the smaller comp wheel...
Wednesday, November 08, 2017 - 01:03 pm, by: Tai Johnsen(Privatejohnsen)
New gremlins have risen since the fuel pump upgrade.
It seems the AEM 320 is quite the little pump!
The regulator is unable to return enough fuel causing the pressure during vacuum to become artificially high.
The WOT and boost fuel pressures are great, but in vacuum the pressure rises above the base pressure.. I am haven't decided if I should slow the pump down with PWM (good for keeping fuel temp down too) or to upgrade the regulator... Or both..
Friday, November 10, 2017 - 03:56 pm, by: Tai Johnsen(Privatejohnsen)
Tai Johnsen wrote on Tuesday, September 19, 2017 - 06:18 pm:
I should really get the tacho working
Finally got this working today.
The tach would sweep with key on, but when drop out with the engine running. It would intermittently return after a 1/2 hour of driving and sometimes work in unison with the indicator, so I was confident it was something voltage related.
The dash wants a 0-12 volt signal so I broke out my trusty oscilloscope and the 4k7 ohm internal pullup resistor on DPO1 of the ECU only managed to create an 8v p-p square wave.
Seemingly juuust enough to be read by the dash at 12v, but with the car running and the alternator providing 13.5v the signal dropped below the threshold.
Unfortunately that is the strongest pull up that can be used for that output so I added an external 2k ohm resistor and the tach works perfectly now and pulls up to the battery voltage.
Saturday, November 18, 2017 - 02:55 pm, by: Tai Johnsen(Privatejohnsen)
New Turbosmart FPR800 installed today and the fuel pressure it all good again.
The stock regulator was just completely saturated and unable to flow enough return fuel to the tank.
It makes sense when you consider how small it is, that the new pump flows about twice as much fuel as stock, and is running at 12V constant, not the 9-12V from the stock ECU.
Quite please with the location and and neatness of the install.
Tuesday, November 21, 2017 - 11:58 pm, by: Tai Johnsen(Privatejohnsen)
Cheers Antonio, yeah sure bud.
The main controller is an Arduino based board with a CAN controller and voltage regulator built in called 'Leocan' and the display is a 1.3 inch 128x64 SPI OLED from Adafruit.
They both come with libraries and examples to get you started.
Friday, November 24, 2017 - 05:49 pm, by: Tai Johnsen(Privatejohnsen)
Yeah, that's the ones... I have some still if you want to make something. I have larger 2.4 inch screens also. Same resolution and library, just bigger.
Wednesday, May 23, 2018 - 10:04 am, by: Tai Johnsen(Privatejohnsen)
Some more progress on the old girl lately.
It has been driving very well, still haven't dyno tuned it and the ECU has been in there for well over a year (possibly two!)
I made a nice little exhaust cutout with some left over 3 inch stainless from when the dump pipe was made and added a pressure activated butterfly valve for a super free flowing exhaust!
This attaches straight after the dump near the gearbox and I have set the ECU to open a solenoid (allow pressure to the actuator) when the engine is above 3000rpm and 70% throttle..
It sounds amazing, and it's just like normal when it's closed
I also decided to ditch the engine fan because although it is very effective, it also sounds like a land cruiser and does stuff all in traffic with low engine speed
With my natural tendency towards quality I decided to go for two 12 inch SPAL curved blade thermo fans and PWM them with the Haltech for nice quiet and smooth operation instead of the ON, OFF, ON, OFF cycling with relays and hysteresis settings.
PWM allows you to essentially have full control of the the fans RPM and increases the life span while reducing the huge inrush current every time they turn on as well as keeping the noise down.
To use PWM you need a fast SSR (Solid State Relay) as a regular relay will die due to the huge cycles (the PWM signal frequency is quite high)
I looked for quite a while and managed to find a nice solution from Amazon. It is 40 Amps capable and has a mounting bracket and plug with flying leads for $40 US. It is a Dorman 902-310 Radiator Fan Relay
Designed as an OEM replacement for a Chrysler or something there are no specs on it, but it works very well so far.
I wanted some safety and redundancy so I am using one per fan even though it has enough grunt to drive both. Ifound a nice little resting spot for them above the intercooler and then set about making a nice fan shroud.
I took some basic measurement from the original radiator and got a mate at work to bend the edges for me. Then I made up some mounting tabs and chain drilled the cutouts in the aluminium because i'm a glutton for punishment.
I wound some high tensile mounting bolts through and put a stiffener / divider between the fans to keep the flow should one fan stop.
Now everything has a place I made up a nice robust wiring loom and installed it.
While I had the soldering iron out I decided to rewire my fuel pump relay to a more permanent solution instead of the electrical tape and zip tie monstrosity.
While I had the ECU loom out I decided to add the wiring needed to add a front wheel speed sensor from an ABS equipped soarer and a switch (as well as the exhaust valve and thermofan wiring) so I can setup % slip traction control