Wednesday, April 25, 2007 - 01:26 pm, by: Phil Kwan(Phil)
hi, First off my car got jump started wrong and it hasn't been able to start after that. I seen a 120V fuse blown so i replace that and i also replace my ignitor and ecu but still no lucky, my mechanic checked all the fuses and relays but he said they look to but all good. Also my Catalytic Converter warning light is on, Wondering if i can get any tips on what else i can do or try to fix it. Thank
Wednesday, April 25, 2007 - 04:03 pm, by: Peter Nitschke(Pen)
If the battery terminals were connected the wrong way around during the jump start, you have probably fried some of the electronics in the various ECU's.
Not good.
Brian Timms TryHard New South Wales TT Soarer Goodness.
Thursday, April 26, 2007 - 04:07 am, by: Luke Gomer(Luke)
Bad luck Phil
It is not uncommon. I have seen Lexus SC430s, Toyota Kluggers etc that have come off the boat from Japan jump stated back to front or even with 24 volts .
It is often the case of swapping over the ECUs with known good ones will cure the fault.
The Klugger required new Navi screen/head / GPS Receiver/ ABS ECU and Engine ECU.
Thursday, April 26, 2007 - 10:07 am, by: Phil Kwan(Phil)
hey, brian what happened was when my car got delivered the battery was dead so he boosted it with a jumper pack but nothing happened when we tryed to start it so we though his battery pack was just dead, i didnt find out till after that it got jumped started it wrong. And yes i replaced the main ECU with another one but still turns over but just wont start up
Tuesday, May 01, 2007 - 01:43 pm, by: Lynton Dickens(Kiweed)
Phil,
I did exactly this last week, when I mistook a dying starter motor for a dead battery. When I swapped a spare battery over I didn't notice it's terminals were round the wrong way, yeah I know don't say anything!!
So anyway, I blew the 150a alternator fuse as well as a number of standard fuses including most that bypass the ignition, some in the engine bay and some in the drivers kick panel. After repairing the alternator fuse and replacing the rest, all is OK. Oh yeah, and the $800 odd bucks to remove, repair and re-install the starter motor.
Tuesday, May 01, 2007 - 03:19 pm, by: Phil Kwan(Phil)
hey, lynton thank for the reply i will double check the fuses again but im pretty sure they they are all ok. was your car turning over but not starting up after u replaced your alternator fuse?
Tuesday, May 01, 2007 - 07:40 pm, by: Matthew Werner(Matto_888)
will do brian thanks mate... the car has been sitting all night and all day.. hasn been touched for 20 hours.. now it doesn work.. wtf... what would die during a dormant period???
Tuesday, May 01, 2007 - 07:58 pm, by: Brian Timms(Turbo_brian)
about 2 months ago my car had similar issues, I thought it was a faulty immobiliser, but it turned out to be the battery ground terminal became faulty.
Wednesday, May 02, 2007 - 01:26 pm, by: Lynton Dickens(Kiweed)
Phil, my car still had the starter motor problem then, so it was just clicking, and not cranking!
I also had a dodgey fuel computer, that often played up when starting the car. But the car would start each time, just that it was like a 50 year old diesel tractor. Installed an earth strap on the battery, which seems to have stopped that problem.
Thursday, May 10, 2007 - 10:41 am, by: Phil Kwan(Phil)
hey, just found out im not geting any fuel or sparks, i havent had a chance to check the crank sensor yet but i was just wondering if the sensor controls the fuel pump and sparks?
Thursday, July 25, 2013 - 06:53 pm, by: Charles Greenwood(Ghostbuilder)
having a intermittent electrical starting problem with a 91 model. when you turn the key nothing happens but all dash lights are on. if i turn the ignition on and off many many times it eventually starts and can take up to 20 minutes of this, and does not happen again for about 3 weeks, had it looked at but it would not do it , sometimes the key gets stuck in the ignition could this be related to the problem . i am new to the car and just wondering were to start, it does not seem to be the starter motor. any help with similar or known problem would be greatly appreciated .
Thursday, July 25, 2013 - 09:10 pm, by: Matthew Werner(Matto_888)
is yours a v8?
sounds like a solenoid problem.. but to test this would require finding the wiring that leads into the startermotor (starter is located under the intake manifold on the v8's (1uz's) and is not visable or serviceable until the intake is removed!!)
Locate the starter signal wire and have it accessible for when it 'plays up'... when it actually displays the symptoms you've described, put a test light,bulb or something that is 12v to that wire (+). and turn the key to start position.. if the test light illuminates but still no action, then you have a solenoid/starter problem and will need to have it rectified by a mechanic.. or handy 'know it all' mate... (option #2 is wayyyyyy cheaper)
if its a 6 / turbo 6.. then the starter is on the passenger side? from memory and you should be able to carry out the fore-mentioned diagnosis relatively easily and replacement would also be a lot easier
Peter Nitschke Junk Filterer South Australia UZZ30 UZZ31
Friday, July 26, 2013 - 07:28 am, by: Tom Richards(Tomr)
go to the diagnostic terminal and measure B+ with the ignition to "ON". should be 12v, i am guessing you are missing this voltage.
If it is missing take the cover off the fuse box near the batt and "rock " the silver round relays. You will hear relays clicking, 12v will appear at B+ and car will start.