Tuesday, July 06, 2010 - 06:42 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
Try and stick with the standard set up if you can. My fan broke and I couldn't find a replacement locally and needed the car back on the road, so I switched to thermo electric.
Its working fine and was easy to install, but if I'd been able to find a standard fan quickly and at an OK price, I would have stayed with the original setup.
Tuesday, July 06, 2010 - 06:48 am, by: Anu Gunarathna(Kodu1jz)
i think without standed setup car perform well. coz no weight in engine.what type of e fan u install. any brand name...? what size..? any heating prob..?thanks anyway
Tuesday, July 06, 2010 - 02:54 pm, by: Aiden Cheese(Chillpen)
Anu Gunarathna wrote on Tuesday, July 06, 2010 - 06:48 am:
coz no weight in engine.what type of e fan u install
Much like your grasp on the English language, your grasp on cooling isn't all that great is it? Look at the size of the blades on the stock setup. Look at the fan shroud. Replicating that much air flow isn't easy without customising a fan shroud and mounting a 14" fan.
To get similar cooling on the 1jz 260z we had to use 3 fans. 2x12" fans and 1x14" fan. It was a real pain in the ass and it wasn't exactly cheap. If only the engine bay was identical to the soarer then we could have kept the stock fan and had better cooling
There are plenty of electric fans running around here, but unless you've got a good reason to change I disagree with the money required to put into changing it. It's not an efficient way to get more power.
Tuesday, July 06, 2010 - 03:59 pm, by: Guy Moore(Thesoarerguy)
I have 2 x 14 inch in front of my radiator blowing air back in the engine bay and i've never had problem with over heating I also don't run a thermostat either I've cut the center out. I think its great mod cleans up the engine bay free room up
Tuesday, July 06, 2010 - 04:35 pm, by: Matt Petersen(Mattmannz)
Wht would you cut the thermostat out? That will delay the engine reaching operating temperature and increase fuel comsumption and engine wear.
As the other posters have said there is little to be gained from modding the cooling system other than cosmetic. The reduced weight and reduced engine drag wouldn't really be measurable. The stock system is incredibly efficient and well designed.
Tuesday, July 06, 2010 - 05:24 pm, by: Guy Moore(Thesoarerguy)
I cut it out ages ago when I thought it crap itself but my radiator was blocked. I just haven't replaced it yet.... when I'm cruising around it doesn't reach operating temperture but when I'm up it she gets there. It is just a cosmetic mod cleans up the front of the engine bay.
Tuesday, July 06, 2010 - 07:08 pm, by: Ali Saeed(Ali)
read Mark Paddicks thread about electric fans. the TT's are ment to have clutch fans, which means they disengage when not required so engine drag is negligible. LOTS of people on these forums as well as lexus forums say that electric fans can never cool as good as stock fans as the design of the radiator is not optimized for them. if you have an aftermarket alloy radiator, only then should you think about this mod.
Tuesday, July 06, 2010 - 07:15 pm, by: Matchy Loi(Ftk148)
I've been pondering this mod recently too, after doing a timing belt, then changing an alternator, and now i'm up for changing the cam seals, each time I've had to remove the clutch fan amongst other things. Luckily I don't have my shroud installed because then I'd have to also remove the radiator pipe and battery as well.
At times I've left the clutch fan off the engine altogether and working on the car was so much easier. If you're small enough you can even stand in the gap between the engine and the radiator.
So this may be one justification for this mod, which is to make it quicker to work on your car but then again it depends how often you work on your car.
I thought it did make the engine look much more tidy and impressive without the clutch fan and shroud.
What kind of radiator are you using in your zed Aiden? I'm so envious of you, I totally love the 240z/260z.
Tuesday, July 06, 2010 - 08:38 pm, by: Aiden Cheese(Chillpen)
Normally the 100k service asks you to replace the cam belt at the same as the cam seals Matcy, because you have to remove it to access the cam seals. You know - so you only have to do it once every 100 000kms.
The fan is 4 nuts, its not like it in itself is a big job to remove
The shroud is pretty important for air flow, air flow dynamics show the difference between air flow of a non shrouded fan and a shrouded fan is huge in actual flow through a radiator. I'm talking like a factor of 200%. Because the low pressure which is created will be filled by the air next to the fan instead of the other side of the radiator.
But moving on.
The radiator is the stock rad from the 260z because its as wide as it can be. It's thicker but not as wide as the soarer one. The 1jz motor fits in the engine bay very easily in terms of space, and because it weighs less than the l28 engine (which came out) it reduced the weight of steering and balanced the car better.
The only gauge we had hooked up for the first few KMs of driving was the water temp gauge to make sure we didn't cook the engine. Though we also had a light(LED on the floor connected to some wires) for the oil pressure.
it's been a hell project considering except for the engine and transmission mount its all been a backyard garage job which makes engineering approval difficult. But we got everything complied and approved so far so that's all good.
To give you an idea on how it drives? It's fast. I've driven a couple of fast cars before (kit cobera with a 1uz supercharged at around 250kw atw only weighing 900kgs~) and been in some fast cars (700hp rx7). And this thing is just up there in the crazy. It's all about power to weight.
Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 06:22 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
I used a 16" fan for the thermo switch that I bought from Supercheap on special. Can't remember the brand name - Calibre or something? Likewise the thermo switch. Its mounted to suck air through. For the aircon I have a 14" fan I bought off trademe which is much better quality than the Supercheap one.
Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 07:59 am, by: Guy Moore(Thesoarerguy)
It seems to cool just fine and has giving me heaps of room in the engine bay. The cars not over heating so don't see the bad in this mod if it kept cooking then I would go back to original setup but it seems to work so I'll stick with it. I'm not running any air con system in the engine bay I've removed it all so air flow straight from front with fans blowing in towards the engine.
I'll take a picture of the setup and post it up tonight.
I was going to upgrade to a allow radiator down the track anyway
Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 11:21 am, by: Aiden Cheese(Chillpen)
The supercheap ones are pretty awful. I mean they do their job but they say "Make sure that the flow rate of the fan is similar to the fan you're replacing." then proceeded to NOT tell you the flow rate of its own fan!
Also when the car was in at a mechanic to get a few hard lines replaced they offered to mount the fan for us. We said sure why not. They mounted it so the fins were facing the wrong way. DURRRR. They just wanted to charge an extra half hour of labour obviously. Called them up and ripped the •••• into them. they also called up and said "Oh look to get the car moving we'll have to get an auto electrician on-site for about 1500 dollars." Asked him "Why?" they said "Oh so you can get the car going". I replied "But i DROVE the car in, what the hell did you do to stop the car driving?" they replied "Oh uh really? I didn't see that?" i replied "Yes you ••••••• did."
They called back an hour later "Oh mate i think the starter motor is dead" I asked them "Did you check the battery terminals?" They asked me to hold.
They came back "OH the car is started now." i replied "You are the lest competent mechanic i've ever taken a car to in my life. I don't want to see billings for time in excess of the piping because you don't know how to diagnose a disconnected battery or put fan blades on backwards. Alright? I'm picking up my car today and that will be the last time i ever hope to see you".
Was pretty pissed by this point. If only I had a machine to bend up hard fuel lines, knew where to buy hard lines and crimp them to hose properly then I wouldn't have ever taken it out of the garage.
Thursday, July 08, 2010 - 07:09 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
Aiden Cheese wrote on Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 11:21 am:
The supercheap ones are pretty awful. I mean they do their job but they say "Make sure that the flow rate of the fan is similar to the fan you're replacing." then proceeded to NOT tell you the flow rate of its own fan!
Fortuantely for me the JZZ31 is over-cooled, and NZ never gets very hot, so it hardly ever uses the fan. Switches on for a minute or so for every 5 minutes you are at the lights or crawling in traffic, and otherwise does nothing, even in the summer. But yeah, had I had more time, I would have sourced a better fan. It was basically the biggest fan I could get same day.
Thursday, July 08, 2010 - 11:13 am, by: Aiden Cheese(Chillpen)
Yeah if its working there's no need to change it. But I found that driving on a steep incline in first at 30kph behind a ford fiesta for 15+ minutes is a good way to test the resilience of your cooling system during summer.
(Mine failed, had the radiator cleaned did a reverse flush regular flush and did the 100 000 service with water pump thermostat etc)
Since then my car has never got hot since. Which is a huge relief. Lol but we're about to go through some testing with the zed soon with the 3 calibre fans on it to see how well the radiator is cooling. Actually I wouldn't be surprised if the car overheats and the radiator is blocked.
Wednesday, December 01, 2010 - 01:05 pm, by: Aiden Cheese(Chillpen)
I don't know but we wired ours in parallel rather than in series. Didn't see any voltage drops in the zed. In series the voltage will be dropped at the second fan.
Thursday, December 02, 2010 - 08:38 pm, by: David Ward(Djwtoyota)
Quite simple use a relay and heavier cable and ensure you have good supply connections wired back to the battery if necessary (ensure you use a fuse or a thermal overload for protection). It should only be wired in parallel not series
Friday, December 03, 2010 - 05:54 pm, by: Boris Siljanoski(Z2tt)
Ana it's best to have the factory fan working, it's more efficient. If you really want to run an electric one, use a relay grounded via a thermostatic switch on the radiator hose. Or have a look at this guide for some suggestions of wiring them up.
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