Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 03:21 pm, by: Ben Kelly(Ace)
Just got new headunit and amp installed and now pwr switched doesnt do anything(ie doenst indicate on dash), checked cable and connections and appears to be ok. Interestingly i found this early thread mentioning a similar problem although i dont know how it was resolved:http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/messages/282/167577.html
in addition i had a few moments of od flashing and ect appearing on dash which i assume might be related. havent had any noticeable transmission problems so im assuming its related to the install. Checked kick panel fuses and under bonnet fuses and they look ok...anyone?
Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 05:06 pm, by: Richard Luong(Reggiebangbang)
You have to connect the emergency switch which turns on all the turning indicators for it to work. It's the swtich/button on top of your temp and vol swtich.
Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 07:50 pm, by: Ben Kelly(Ace)
You mean the hazard lights? its connected and working mate. What about the ect error which popped up again this evening? theres nothing wrong with the gearbox that i can sense. and it was only replaced 50k ago
Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 08:35 pm, by: Richard Luong(Reggiebangbang)
Sorry champ miss read what you were asking (iphone text and my eyes = fail).
Just for 100% check all fuses again.
(How are you checking your fuses?)
Double check the switch if it pluged in correctly and check the adaptor to make sure none of the pins are broken off.
Ensure all the wires are connected and no wires are exposed.
If you installed the head uni I'd re check all the wiring make sure you have connected it to the right one and make sure your grounding wire is't shorting out.
What you can also try and do (Prob a long shot) reset the ecu (there is a tutorial)
Wednesday, July 07, 2010 - 09:12 pm, by: Ben Kelly(Ace)
re the ecu reset i tried unplugging the battery for a fair while. The ect error comes and goes intermittently. I did a visual on the fuses in the drivers side kick panel and under the bonnet. all are ok. I didnt do the head unit myself but the guys that installed seem to know their stuff. thanks for your help though. everything is connected correctly as far as i can see. hmm
Check that pull the plug and check continuity. Wiggle the wires a bit and see if that makes a difference, if not clean it up (rags and contact cleaner) and plug it back in. Oh if your continuity drops when the wires are wiggled then your wire is damaged in which case you should probably replace as much of it as you can and solder in some new wire. If you're careful you can actually pull the pin out of the connector plug and solder the wire onto the pin then push the pin back into the plug. Usually the pin has a "fin" which holds it in to the plug, if you have small tools like jewellers small faltblade screwdriver then you can just push the pin in further to the connector and then push the "fin" down out of the way of snagging onto the clip then pull it all out of the connector.
Anyway goodluck. I hope it's as simple as it wasn't clicked in proper.
Thursday, July 08, 2010 - 11:56 am, by: Dave Rose(Sand_groper)
Run the dianostics (that what they are for )sounds like error 16 fault in link between CPU and A/T CPU ,just see what comes up on dash it might give you a lead to the problem.
Thursday, July 08, 2010 - 08:41 pm, by: Ben Kelly(Ace)
thanks so far guys. The car is back with fhrx who are doing a great job looking into the problem but lots of head scratching hasnt lead to any results. They did a check of the error codes i believe by plugging into the diag port but i havent heard back yet. Marty (owner of fhrx, and in general a knowledgable guy) now thinks the ect error message is unrelated to the install which may be so. certainly it only started the next morning..its just that the ect switch didnt work on picking up the car (and still doesnt despite the switch and leads testing ok) which complicates matters. I should also mention that these guys have done a really good job and the customer service is absolutely great, my car was also treated with a lot of care.
Friday, July 09, 2010 - 09:54 pm, by: Ben Kelly(Ace)
Ok so the code is 42: speed sensor #1 the funny thing is: car drives perfectly, there is no problem with the speedo which sensor #1 controls (or so i believe), the ect switch does not work despite the plug and leads testing ok?
next step put a new speed sensor in? anyone can advise of location and cost?
Saturday, July 10, 2010 - 11:34 pm, by: Ben Kelly(Ace)
Thanks Gary. The ect pwr light came back on the dash today so it was probably a loose globe. So that was a red herring. I guess it looks as though the speed sensor decided to die the very next day after the install of head unit so it may have all been a coincidence. Either way will get a speed sensor shortly.
Sunday, July 11, 2010 - 12:07 am, by: Ben Kelly(Ace)
this is interesting. I just learned that the speed sensor signal comes through the dash. so maybe the loose connection for the ect light/switch and the ect error warning ARE related. Since during the install the combination display was moved forward slightly when installing the gps antenna it seems possible some wiring or connection was disturbed. Thoughts?
ref: Ralph Cooke Newbie Hampshire SC300
Posts: 1 Reg: 08-2007
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) Tuesday, September 04, 2007 - 06:50 pm, by: Ralph Cooke (Ralphfcooke)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The signal from the speed sensor goes to the ECU via the combination meter. The circuitry on the com. mtr. is used to tidy up the signal, and given the other issues we get with this item it's a likely source of the problem. The signal feeds into the com mtr on pin 13 of C14, and back out on pin 14 of the same connector. From there is feeds the main ecu, as well as the cruise control ECU and the power steering ECU. It certainly seems worthwhile checking round this area, especially if you have a tame electronics guru inn your vicinity
Sunday, July 11, 2010 - 02:26 pm, by: Aiden Cheese(Chillpen)
Damian Ware wrote on Thursday, July 08, 2010 - 06:44 pm:
Quite a few about this topic and yes TT"s in some cases shudder if they don't have Type IV fluid.
Toyota or lexus dealership will only put in DexIII because that was what the engineers built for it. Type4 may not harm it but it runs at different temps and viscocity. Unless they changed that in later models?
But my transmission says to put in dex3. I spoke to a mechanic at lexus who says he'll only put in dex3.
However i saw someone put in dex3 into a 1uz tranny and it came out 24months later a black sludge. that needs toyota type4.
Toyota dealers can be seriously retarded, let me do a re-enactment.
Dealer - Goodafternoon Sir how may I assist you
Me - Hello, I have a 1991 Toyota Celsior, it's the Japan equivelant of the LS400 Sold here.
Him - Yeah I know.
Me - I need some transmission fluid for it but am not sure what type to use, my dipstick says T-II
Him - That means Dexron II Mate, put Dexron II in it.
Me - Oh but ussually on other cars that needed Dexron it would say D-II or D-III on the dipstick
Him - Nope, T-II just means Dexron 2, trust me.
Then I went and did a bit of research and found out all the problems people have had with running Dexron behind 1uz v8 Transmissions.
Cannot believe the dealer recommended the wrong fluid DESPITE the fact that Toyota had issued a TSB out to address this issue VERY CLEARLY, and specifically points out via a chart that Dexron cannot be used where Type T is specified.
Sunday, July 11, 2010 - 03:48 pm, by: James Buchan(Jrbuch)
Toyota sales people are just people working behind the counter, much like any old supermarket.
Me - Hello my 1UZ-FE V8 Soarer needs the 100k service, here is a list of parts with the numbers on them, should be easy for you to look up and order me in the parts
Him - Yep sure thing (looks up parts) then says to me, "Ohh, you won't need a new waterpump, if it's not leaking it won't need replacing. Toyota parts are very solid"
Me - thanks for your help (I don't order the new waterpump)
Fastfoward to service time (mechanics find waterpump is in actual fact leaking - though not visibly. They replace it without asking me, and provide a pump to fit the 1UZ) All is well in my world.
Fastforward one month - waterpump has sh!t itself. Go to mechanics, and they agree to replace it and fix it all up free of charge, and this time, I go to toyota and tell them what happened and order a Toyota Waterpump.
I don't take the Toyota spare parts in Geelong's advice anymore.
Sunday, July 11, 2010 - 05:48 pm, by: Ben Kelly(Ace)
hey guys this is a really interesting on transmission fluids..and its good that its in the electrical section(!). Ahem I was really excited though as i think i may have found the cause of my considerable angst. Anyone reckon im on the right track?
Don Bagnall Moderator New Zealand 2002 Ford Fairmont AUII 6 cyl.
Tuesday, July 13, 2010 - 01:33 pm, by: Aiden Cheese(Chillpen)
Buy higher quality DexIII imo
Mine has been fine with some good DxIII for a good 10 000kms
Also you're arguing with toyota not me. i'm telling you toyota specify DexIII and I use DexIII without problems. I've been told by a lexus mechanic that they put DexIII into those cars.
You can put whatever you like in yours, but the specificications say Dex III. If you get shuddering I suggest not buying the stuff at your local caltex or instead try using maybe toyota type 4 but i wouldn't . Why? Because I'd prefer to use the oil specified for my transmission. Even if others are plenty happy with their choice
Tuesday, July 13, 2010 - 01:49 pm, by: Damian Ware(Frozenpod)
Aiden, you can use what ever you like in your trans but...
It has been well documented (there are SAE papers written on this topic) that the sprag clutches can have issues unless used with specific fluid type IV.
DEX III can be used with friction modifiers supposedly.
For what it is worth I used Castrol DEX III as it is a top quality DEX III fluid and this is what toyota dealers use when changing DEX III specific auto trans.
As to toyota specs toyota changed the DEX to Type IV even for turbo autos in later years.
I can only assume they used type IV from factory and it was later found to be an issue when servicing and fluid was replaced with DEX III.