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Clint McDonald
Newbie
QLD
TT

Posts: 4
Reg: 03-2011

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Monday, March 07, 2011 - 07:36 pm, by:  Clint McDonald (Clint) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hey all,

I thought it was just the fuel pump ECU, but I've done the 'paperclip trick' with FP & B+ with no luck. So I did the diagnostic test & it came up with: EFI NG & EFI 14. Does anyone know what this means? Would appreciate any help.

Cheers,
Clint
Katsuji Ueda
Tinkerer
Osaka
JZZ30 2.5GT-TL

Posts: 54
Reg: 07-2010

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Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 02:52 am, by:  Katsuji Ueda (Senrioka8) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

EFI 14 is concerning about ignition signal failure.(in case of 1JZ engine)
1:check wire harness and connection
2:igniter
Clint McDonald
Tinkerer
QLD
TT

Posts: 7
Reg: 03-2011

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Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 02:18 pm, by:  Clint McDonald (Clint) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Katsuji Ueda wrote on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 02:52 am:




Ok Thanks,

Would you have any diagrams or advice on how I would do this so I can replace the coils?

Cheers, Clint
Adrian McGuire
TryHard
Queensland
soarer 2.5 turbo

Posts: 148
Reg: 12-2010

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Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 03:04 pm, by:  Adrian McGuire (Adro) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

to check your coils just take the centre plate of in between the valve covers. there should be 8 alleykey bolts. once you take it off you are looking at the coils and wiring harness. check all the plugs are clipped on properly. if they are ok you need a 10mm socket with an extension. unclip all the plugs to the coils (remembering which one goes where) you will see a bold at the front and rear of each set of 2 coils. undo them and lift the coils straight up and inspect the coils for cracks (normally where its mounted to the metal mounts) out of 6 coils i had 4 cracked. my car ran fine until under high boost with it would miss and surge really bad. i got a new set of super spark coils and clips and everything is 100% better now,
Clint McDonald
Tinkerer
QLD
TT

Posts: 8
Reg: 03-2011

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Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 04:23 pm, by:  Clint McDonald (Clint) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Adrian McGuire wrote on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 03:04 pm:



Thanks for that. O got the coils out & there are hairline cracks where the brackets mounts are. It just seems bizarre that my car won't even start all of a sudden? Surely they all haven't appeared at once? Would the hairline cracks cause it not to start? Or should I look at the ignitor? Are you able to tell me how I get to the ignitor to check it?

Thanks, Clint
Clint McDonald
Tinkerer
QLD
TT

Posts: 9
Reg: 03-2011

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Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 04:50 pm, by:  Clint McDonald (Clint) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Clint McDonald wrote on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 04:23 pm:




Hey, I just had my coil packs tested & it's not them that's causing the problem..?? Does that just leave the ignitor then - as it's been giving me the EFI 14 warning?

Thanks again
Adrian McGuire
TryHard
Queensland
soarer 2.5 turbo

Posts: 151
Reg: 12-2010

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Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 04:51 pm, by:  Adrian McGuire (Adro) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

a hairline crack is all you need for the spark to jump and not go were it is meant to. when is it missing? all the time or just under boost? also when you are looking at the engine bay, my igniter is near where the top of the right hand(passanger side) front shock top can be seen its a box about about 10cm x 10cm and has a larger plug and a small plug comming out of it, on the back it will have toyota igniter writen on it.
Clint McDonald
Tinkerer
QLD
TT

Posts: 10
Reg: 03-2011

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Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 05:40 pm, by:  Clint McDonald (Clint) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Adrian McGuire wrote on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 04:51 pm:




I had the coils tested at an auto electricians & they seemed fine. The car isn't starting at all half of the time. Could it be my aftermarket immobilisor as it's probably 10 years old? Could that cause it to short out?

By any chance would you know any mobile Japanese mechanics around Brisbane that I could call about it.

Thanks again
Adrian McGuire
TryHard
Queensland
soarer 2.5 turbo

Posts: 152
Reg: 12-2010

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Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 05:50 pm, by:  Adrian McGuire (Adro) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Sorry I don't know of any sparkies in brissy but it sounds like you need one. Could be the imobiliser or turbo timer ? You need to play and try and work through the different issues.
Brett Harrison
DieHard
QLD
JZZ30

Posts: 598
Reg: 09-2005

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Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 06:38 pm, by:  Brett Harrison (Bretto) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

It won't be coils, more likely to be the ignitor if ignition fault.

Otherwise, could be fuel pump itself, what happens when you open throttle once started ? If you choke the engine will that keep it running ?

I would also look at ecu, check for leaky caps, wouldn't be the first time this has stopped a car.
Clint McDonald
Tinkerer
QLD
TT

Posts: 12
Reg: 03-2011

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Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 09:05 pm, by:  Clint McDonald (Clint) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Brett Harrison wrote on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 06:38 pm:




Hi all. When it actually starts it runs fine, but when it seems to get warm it stalls & cuts out. Then i'd be lucky if it starts again, although everything seems to want to start. I might take it to the auto-electricians & get the immobilisor removed & see how it goes from there.. eg: ignitor; ignition; fuel pump; coils (again).

Thanks heaps for the advice, will keep you updated. Any more feedback would be great!

Thanks again
Peter Nitschke
Junk Filterer
South Australia
UZZ30 UZZ31

Posts: 12057
Reg: 11-2004

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Wednesday, March 09, 2011 - 01:41 am, by:  Peter Nitschke (Pen) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Clint, if you want to quote a previous post, first mark the text you wish to quote, and then hit the "Quote" button.
David Ward
TryHard
Victoria
3.0 TT & 2.5 TT

Posts: 430
Reg: 10-2006

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Wednesday, March 09, 2011 - 09:39 pm, by:  David Ward (Djwtoyota) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Clint had a similar problem myself. Up to 66C the 1jzgte runs I think in what is called closed loop (like a choke mode) but once over that temp it relies on all the input sensors. I found my problem which sounds identical to yours to be the MAP sensor being faulty, however it could also be other inputs, but I'd try the MAP sensor first,
cheers David
Michael Sinay
TryHard
NSW
TT

Posts: 234
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, December 15, 2011 - 11:46 am, by:  Michael Sinay (Mikey) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

How did you go Clint, what did the problem end up being?

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