Monday, March 07, 2011 - 07:36 pm, by: Clint McDonald(Clint)
Hey all,
I thought it was just the fuel pump ECU, but I've done the 'paperclip trick' with FP & B+ with no luck. So I did the diagnostic test & it came up with: EFI NG & EFI 14. Does anyone know what this means? Would appreciate any help.
Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 03:04 pm, by: Adrian McGuire(Adro)
to check your coils just take the centre plate of in between the valve covers. there should be 8 alleykey bolts. once you take it off you are looking at the coils and wiring harness. check all the plugs are clipped on properly. if they are ok you need a 10mm socket with an extension. unclip all the plugs to the coils (remembering which one goes where) you will see a bold at the front and rear of each set of 2 coils. undo them and lift the coils straight up and inspect the coils for cracks (normally where its mounted to the metal mounts) out of 6 coils i had 4 cracked. my car ran fine until under high boost with it would miss and surge really bad. i got a new set of super spark coils and clips and everything is 100% better now,
Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 04:23 pm, by: Clint McDonald(Clint)
Adrian McGuire wrote on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 03:04 pm:
Thanks for that. O got the coils out & there are hairline cracks where the brackets mounts are. It just seems bizarre that my car won't even start all of a sudden? Surely they all haven't appeared at once? Would the hairline cracks cause it not to start? Or should I look at the ignitor? Are you able to tell me how I get to the ignitor to check it?
Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 04:50 pm, by: Clint McDonald(Clint)
Clint McDonald wrote on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 04:23 pm:
Hey, I just had my coil packs tested & it's not them that's causing the problem..?? Does that just leave the ignitor then - as it's been giving me the EFI 14 warning?
Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 04:51 pm, by: Adrian McGuire(Adro)
a hairline crack is all you need for the spark to jump and not go were it is meant to. when is it missing? all the time or just under boost? also when you are looking at the engine bay, my igniter is near where the top of the right hand(passanger side) front shock top can be seen its a box about about 10cm x 10cm and has a larger plug and a small plug comming out of it, on the back it will have toyota igniter writen on it.
Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 05:40 pm, by: Clint McDonald(Clint)
Adrian McGuire wrote on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 04:51 pm:
I had the coils tested at an auto electricians & they seemed fine. The car isn't starting at all half of the time. Could it be my aftermarket immobilisor as it's probably 10 years old? Could that cause it to short out?
By any chance would you know any mobile Japanese mechanics around Brisbane that I could call about it.
Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 05:50 pm, by: Adrian McGuire(Adro)
Sorry I don't know of any sparkies in brissy but it sounds like you need one. Could be the imobiliser or turbo timer ? You need to play and try and work through the different issues.
Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 09:05 pm, by: Clint McDonald(Clint)
Brett Harrison wrote on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 06:38 pm:
Hi all. When it actually starts it runs fine, but when it seems to get warm it stalls & cuts out. Then i'd be lucky if it starts again, although everything seems to want to start. I might take it to the auto-electricians & get the immobilisor removed & see how it goes from there.. eg: ignitor; ignition; fuel pump; coils (again).
Thanks heaps for the advice, will keep you updated. Any more feedback would be great!
Thanks again
Peter Nitschke Junk Filterer South Australia UZZ30 UZZ31
Wednesday, March 09, 2011 - 09:39 pm, by: David Ward(Djwtoyota)
Clint had a similar problem myself. Up to 66C the 1jzgte runs I think in what is called closed loop (like a choke mode) but once over that temp it relies on all the input sensors. I found my problem which sounds identical to yours to be the MAP sensor being faulty, however it could also be other inputs, but I'd try the MAP sensor first, cheers David