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John Stafford
TryHard
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8

Posts: 167
Reg: 02-2010

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Monday, March 14, 2011 - 11:42 pm, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Today I developed a miss in my V8 from between 55 and 70 klm/hr under load going up hill mainly. It stops when I change back to second and accelerate. It seems to be getting worse too. I did a 200 klm run and it started at about the 80 klm mark. I have new plugs and leads tested perfect as per the specs for Toyota leads just last week. I have had my caps replaced just recently too and had no troubles till today. Any ideas? Thanks in advance John
Tom Richards
DieHard
nsw
V8

Posts: 581
Reg: 08-2005

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Tuesday, March 15, 2011 - 07:43 am, by:  Tom Richards (Tomr) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

check the coils.
primary resistance should be 0 ohms
secondary should be ~12k ohms
this test is not 100% as they could mesure ok, but break down under high voltage.
John Stafford
TryHard
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8

Posts: 168
Reg: 02-2010

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Tuesday, March 15, 2011 - 07:50 am, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Tom, Can you explain exactly how to test the coils, where to put the multimeter for primary and where to put it for secondary. Thanks John
Michael Toet
TryHard
Vic
V8

Posts: 264
Reg: 06-2009

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Tuesday, March 15, 2011 - 09:24 am, by:  Michael Toet (Myke31) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Sounds like what my car was doing. I had the ECU checked out and it was okay, but since I had already bought one, I waited for it, and installed that one. So far it seems to be running well (at least 4 weeks or more so far).

The issue I had is some of the cylinders were running rich. At 80kph going up hill (under load) around 2000 to 2500rpm the car would shudder/miss slightly. If I got over 3000rpm it was good, and if the car kicked down a gear and reved harder it was all smooth again. It wasn't my coils because the ones running rich shared coil packs with the cylinders that were all good. Like yourself, I have put in all new leads, coils, dizzy buttons & caps. Also I ruled out oxy sensors as I had 4 cylinders running rich, 2 on each bank, so I assume they don't share oxy sensors, also, my fuel economy hasn't changed. Typically the economy goes bad when the oxy sensors play up. The other thing I was going to check out were the injectors. I don't know if they are putting in the wrong amount of fuel under load at low revs.

The ones running rich on my car are the centre 4 cylinders (2 on each bank). I was also considering heat soak or something, but I haven't chased it down further since everything now seems okay since the new ECU. I need to pull out the plugs at some stage and check again.

Pull the plugs out and have a look, see if they share a common element, ie, dizzy/coil pack. Maybe check the injectors, but I don't know how to check them/rule them out, except to change them over between good and bad cylinders and see if the problem occurs again, but in the other cylinder where the suspect injector is.

If you solve the problem, post back, as I would like to know, just in case I see the issue again.

Cheers,
Mike
Tom Richards
DieHard
nsw
V8

Posts: 583
Reg: 08-2005

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Tuesday, March 15, 2011 - 10:22 am, by:  Tom Richards (Tomr) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

unplug the leads to the coil.
where the wiring connects to the coil, 2 wires, that is the primary. measure between them for 0 ohms.

measure from either of them to the ht out connector(spark plug type lead to the coil)and it should read ~12,000 ohms
John Stafford
TryHard
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8

Posts: 169
Reg: 02-2010

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Tuesday, March 15, 2011 - 11:57 am, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ok Tom, I guessed to do just what you said before you posted and I got 00.9 ohms between the 2 wires in the primary and I got 14.45 ohms for the primary the main lead to the distributor cap. How does this sound? I have only done the left bank so far, cleaned the terminals in the distributor cap and the rotor button contact too. Thanks for the help. I still have the miss. The post above by Micheal sounds interesting, like it may be the ECU that I had fixed? I will do the other bank and check again and then contact the guy who did the ECU. I will let you know how it works out. Don't forget to comment on the figures that I got when testing the coil Tom. Thanks. Cheers John
Tom Richards
DieHard
nsw
V8

Posts: 586
Reg: 08-2005

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Tuesday, March 15, 2011 - 02:20 pm, by:  Tom Richards (Tomr) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

john, for the secondary was it 14.45 K ohms?

I think you just left the K out.
John Stafford
TryHard
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8

Posts: 172
Reg: 02-2010

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Thursday, March 17, 2011 - 04:40 pm, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Yes Tom, it was K ohms and the other one tested out at .9 between the 2 connections on the primary plug and then from there to the high tension lead that runs to the dissi cap. It was 12.95, a bit lower than on the left bank. Well I reset the computer for about 10 mins and nothing improved so disconnected the battery overnight but no improvement so decided to test the plug leads again and found all the same as before (right on spec) but one of them was hard to get a reading on but when I could get one it was 10.8 for Number 7,which should have fine, then I remembered that it was hard to get a reading on one the last time I tested and think it was the same lead so thought that this might be the culprit. I cleaned the right hand rotor and the terminals in the cap and put it all back together as I had to go out. Guess what? I think the miss has gone, probably the way that I put number 7 lead back. Looks like a crack in that lead. Christian who did my caps for me said that my ecu board was in good shape and that he doubted that, that was the problem. So looks like all is good. Thanks guys Cheers John
Brett Harrison
DieHard
QLD
JZZ30

Posts: 610
Reg: 09-2005

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Thursday, March 17, 2011 - 07:28 pm, by:  Brett Harrison (Bretto) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

John if you ever need to change the coils, you can just buy generic, Champion brand Coils from Repco etc, only about 30-40 bucks each. Not that they are faulty, however heat is a killer for coils, and the one on the left bank near the exhaust manifold gets a bit hot on long runs.
John Stafford
TryHard
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8

Posts: 174
Reg: 02-2010

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Thursday, March 17, 2011 - 10:38 pm, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks for the info on the coils Brett.
I may get a special lead made for plug #7. I have heard of "Qld. Ignition leads" who make good quality performance leads from your fittings. Not sure how much they are but the genuine article is about $80+ Cheers John

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