Friday, May 31, 2013 - 11:17 pm, by: Joseph Kelly(Phenonix)
I pressed the button on my remote and nothing happened, no doors unlocking sound, no beep to show it had unlocked, no flashing light So i opened with the key, then the alarm goes off, car will now not start, so i disconnected the battery, left it for 30 minutes but still alarm goes off. Pressing my remote, light on remote flash's but nothing happens.
Anything familiar here to anyone?
Is it a trip to an expensive electrician to try and find the problem, any suggestions to what i can try before i do send it in? Thanks
Saturday, June 01, 2013 - 07:52 am, by: Liviu Velisarie(Greenroadster)
Hi Joseph! I had the same problem a year ago. My problem started when I open the car and and try it to start without the immobiliser on my ring key. The alarm went on and never wanted to start again.
I had to reset the alarm immobilisator.
They are some complicated steps. 1.Remove both contacts from battery. 2.Put on the + 3.After 30 seconds open the driver door. 4.Turn the key. 5.Put on the - on battery 6.Closed the door 7.Turn the key
....or something like that. My electrician found that on internet ))
Really!
Good luck to you. I stayed with the car jammed like that for a month!
Saturday, June 01, 2013 - 08:58 am, by: Joseph Kelly(Phenonix)
Does anyone think it will be an easy fix, or complicated expensive fix? I'm hoping its something simple like the remote receiver failed, but i wouldn't know where to look. Also if it has been tripped like this could any car electrician fix it or are our cars more complicated?
Saturday, June 01, 2013 - 09:00 am, by: Joshua Thomson(Campaspeae)
Best cheapest option would be to change the battery in your remote as if it is flat or going flat it might light up but the signal may not be strong enough to unlock/immobilise the car.
Saturday, June 01, 2013 - 09:09 am, by: Joseph Kelly(Phenonix)
I'll try that Joshua, but the battery is only a couple of weeks old, one thing the NRMA said was the alarm should still go off if the battery is disconnected, but it does not, is that a further sign of anything? The car is miles away at work, had to get a taxi home, so any suggestions i wont be able to try immediately
Saturday, June 01, 2013 - 10:18 am, by: Tom Richards(Tomr)
locate the alarm, under the dash or in the foot panel to the side of the accellerator. Find the brand and contact the company on how to "immobilise" it.
Saturday, June 01, 2013 - 03:48 pm, by: Joshua Thomson(Campaspeae)
It could be a sign of that the immobiliser itself is at fault and just like Tom said easiest thing to do is find what brand it is and see if there is a way to by pass it I guess you can say that should tell you if it's at fault. If you were nearby I would have a look for you.
Saturday, June 01, 2013 - 07:10 pm, by: Tom Richards(Tomr)
the wiring diag will not find where it is . Common place is as i said above.
Recently mine was causing the car to stall whilst being driven. the manufacturer gave me the wiring info, and i have removed it and shorted out the required pins.
Monday, June 03, 2013 - 08:42 am, by: Vincent Chan(Vincent191)
I had the same problem last week. My mechanic disconnected the battery when he re-installed my air suspension and my immobiliser started to play up just like Tom. The car started to stall and I had difficulties starting. I looked under the bonnet and can't find the immobilser unit. Now reading Tom's posting I will look under the dash. Some after market units you can turn it of with a key.
Back to my problem, my mechanic sat in the car with the thing in park and make sure all the windows, doors, boot and bonnet are firmly closed. Then press the small button on the remote to lock the doors and then press the big button to unlock all the doors and bingo (phew) the car started and has not stalled every since. Hope this works for you.
I also had a small blinking red light under the dash and after restting it when off. If you have one and it is blinking means the alarm/immobilser is on.
Monday, June 03, 2013 - 10:22 am, by: Tom Richards(Tomr)
most alarms are 3 pt, they will switch the IG(black/yellow), starter (black/white), and fuel pump wires.
If you remove the bottom cover under the steering wheel, and get you head in there , you can see the loom coming out from the ig barrel. Find the IG and starter wires and trace them to where they are cut. You can then follow them back to the immobiliser. If the immobiliser is stuffed, you can rejoin the wires. If the fuel pump is also switched, you need to find where it is cut and rejoin it .
Monday, June 03, 2013 - 04:20 pm, by: Joseph Kelly(Phenonix)
NRMA towed it into an auto electrician today, so immobiliser is now in the bin, $150.00 poorer, i would have attempted what Tom had said but did not feel comfortable trying it as it was not in my garage, thanks all or replying
Peter Nitschke Junk Filterer South Australia UZZ30 UZZ31
Tuesday, June 04, 2013 - 02:22 am, by: Peter Nitschke(Pen)
Soarers didn't come with either immobiliser or alarm, so all units fitted are after market and will all have different procedures and reliability levels.
This makes it difficult to diagnose unless someone has the exact same unit as you and has had similar experiences.
Removing yours was probably the best solution, but fit another one to protect your car.
Tuesday, June 04, 2013 - 07:00 am, by: Joseph Kelly(Phenonix)
Thanks Peter, in the beginning i really did not understand the set up i had, i understand now, and how they function Anyone recommend a good after market kit i could install myself?
Previous
)) 
